IMAGE  EVALUATBON 
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Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

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V 


^1>^ 


A' 


«- 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  biblicgraphiques 


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n 


n 


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n 


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10X  14X  18X  22X 


26X 


30X 


12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


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iVIontreal 

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The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  —^(meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  appiiea. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
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method: 


L'exempiaire  filmA  fut  reproduit  grice  A  la 
gin^rcsiti  de: 

McLennan  Library 
McGill  University 
Montreal 

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plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  at 
de  la  nettetA  de  l'exempiaire  film^,  at  en 
eonformiti  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
fiimage. 

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d'impression  ou  d'illustration  at  an  terminant  par 
la  derniiire  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  dea  symboie'i  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
demiire  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  seSon  le 
caa:  Ic  symbols  — *>  signifie  'A  SUIVRS",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 

Lea  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
filmte  A  des  taux  de  rMuction  diff«rents. 
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reproduit  en  un  seuj  cliche,  il  est  filmi  d  partir 
de  I'angle  supirieur  gauche,  de  gauche  i  droite, 
et  de  huw  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'imeges  nicessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
iilustrent  la  mithode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

9!iPani 


j^ssassmam 


Baron  LioMAL  Nathan    DeROTHSCHILID. 
Momher  cf  FarliarncriL,  fcr  the  City  of  London. 


RUIIING  SKETCHES 


OF 


J^tn  onh  ^Mutts, 


IN 


ENGLAND,   FRANCE,   GERMANY,    BELGIUM, 
AND   SCOTLAND. 


BY 


GEORGE    COPWAY, 

(KAII-GE-GA-GAH-BOWH) 

CIIIE?  or   THE   OJIBWAY   NATION,  NORTH   AMERICAN  INDIANS. 


mm  JIllustraUonB. 


NEW   YORK: 
I  J.  C.  RIKER,   129  FULTON  STREET. 

1851. 


I 


r// 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  J851,  by 
.  GEORGE    COPWAY, 

In  the  Clerk's  Office  for  the  Southern    Dis.rlt  of  New  York. 


STKKKOTVPKD    BV    THOMAS    B.    SMITH. 
216   WILLIAM   STBKBT,    K.  Y. 


TO 


RICHARD    PENNELL,    M.D., 

AXD   HIS   LADY, 

AS  A    MARK    OF    THE    HIGHEST    RESPECT 

AND   GRATITUDE   FOR   THEIR   KINDNESS, 

QL\)is  bolume 

IS   MOST   RESPECTFULLY  DEDICATED 


BY  THE  AUTHOR. 


! 


^ttfiixt. 


In  putting  out  the  following  pages,  it  has  been  in  part 
to  satisfy  the  inquiries  by  my-  friends  in  this  country, 
how  I  liked  my  tour  through  Europe,  as  well  as  to  pre- 
serve the  pleasing  incidents  which  were  shown  me,  by 
the  people  wherever  I  sojourned. 

Without  following  the  general  course  of  travellers  in 
encumbering  their  books  in  deep  historical  researches  of 
the  various  countries  they  have  visited,— I  have  merely 
put  enough  to  interest  the  general  reader,  of  the  towns, 
and  time-worn  ruins  which  came  under  my  personal 
observation. 

Much  of  this  is  devoted  to  sketches  of  men  now  prom- 
inent before  the  European  public,  which  I  hope  will  re- 
pay the  reader  for  the  time  occupied  in  reading  them. 

Evening  after  evening  I  have  been  requested  to  recite 
my  impressions  of  the  country  since  I  have  returned.  I 
send  forth  this  volume  to  the  fireside  of  the  paleface.     All 


VI 


PREFACE. 


hope  will  be  overlooked  by  them. 
Now  I  am  once  more  ia  the  land  of  my  fathe™.     A 

:"■''': ';-.^="°-  '">-=""  than  ever,-a„d™y 
the  Great  Spmt  ever  smile  on  the  land  of  my  birth. 

Farewell 

until  you  hear  from  me  again— 

Kah-ge-ga-gah-bowh. 
New  York,  May,  1861. 


CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER   I. 

THK    DEPARTURE, '^" 

CHAPTER  IL 
™^  0^^*'' 21 

CHAPTER  III. 

THE    OCEAN-         ... 

' 29 

CHAPTER  IV. 

IRISH    CHANNEL    AND    COAST,  oa 

CHAPTER   V. 

ARRIVAL-STRANGE   THIN(J8  AND  PEOPLE— DOCKS,  SHIPS,  BTO.,     .         42 

CHAPTER  VI. 

THK    PEOPLE TOWN COl'NTRY  r« 

CHAPTER  VIL 

HISTORICAL    NOTICES    OF    LIVERPOOL  a» 

'  '  •  •  •  .        66 


II 


if 


■  •  • 

via 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER   VIII. 

COMMENCEMENT  OF   TEAVEL  'AOt 

77 


CHAPTER  IX. 


LONDON, 


CHAPTER  X. 

ILLUSTBIOCS   ILLiTSTRATED 

CHAPTER  XI. 

BAMBLE8   IN   HAMPTON   COrw 

'  CHAPTER  XII. 

ANOTHER    VISIT   TO    LIVERPOOL 

>  •  • 


CHAPTER   XIII. 


JENNT   LIND,    . 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

BAPTIST  NOKL-TRAVELS   TO    COLOGNE. 


THE   RHINE, 


PSACE   CONGRESS       . 


CHAPTER  XV. 


CHAPTER  XVL 


91 


98 


114 


127 


148 


IfiS 


.     198 


.     208 
CHAPTER  XVII. 

AFTER    SKETCHES    OF    SPEECHES    AND   MSN 

.221 


77 


148 


153 


CONTENTS.  ix 

CHAPTER  XVllI. 

WUtTtHKS   CONTINUED,       .  .  '«„? 

CHAPTER   XIX. 

VISIT   TO   HKIDKLBEUO.      ,  .  nKA 

'  264 

CHAPTER  XX. 

LONDON   AOAIN, „,._ 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

FIRST   VISIT   TO  SCOTLAND 282 

CHAPTER   XXII. 

LFCTURES  AND  ADDBESSES  IN  LONDON,  AND  TRAVELS  TO  THE 

•"'^"^ 297 

CHAPTER  XXJII. 

SCOTLAND,         ...  .«. 

884 

1# 


J 


fi 

•  if: 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


CHAPTEE  I. 

THE    DEPARTURE. 

It  is  nearly  five  months  since  I  first  had  any  idea  of 
going  to  Germany.  It  was  suggested  in  a  conversation  I 
had  with  the  great  Philanthropist  and  celebrated  "  Learn- 
ed Blacksmith,"  ElihuBurrett,  in  Washington.  The 
fact  of  leaving  my  native  land  seems  now  a  reality.  The 
suggestions  which  were  then  made  as  a  means  of  prepa- 
ration, have  been  attended  to — and  now  I  am  going  to  a 
country  where  the  people  will  be  strangers  to  me,  and 
whose  language  will  be  difierent  from  mine — whose  habits 
and  manners  will  be  altogether  their  own. 

I  have  thought  that  I  loved  my  native  land  ;  but  I 
realize  it  more  to-day  than  ever  ;  and  all  that  is  Imrely  in 


^ 


12 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


-ynafve  land  is  magnified.     I  .an  .e  at  .hi,  .no^ent 
al  the  ,ce„e.  „C  beau.y  and  grandeur  which  I  have  be. 
held  u.  .he  f„re».  „„,d.     The  rivers  whose  courses  I  havo 
traced  as  .hey  glided  i„  deep  shadow  through  .he  forests- 
the  beautiful  lakes  on  whose  wooded  banks  I  have  wan- 

'™''""""'-°°^—  -"="  in  n,y  view;  and  alter- 
nately pleasure  and  regret  flit  across  my  breast  as  I  think 
ot  the  varied  past. 

Valley  after  valley,  and  mountain  after  mountain  ap-' 
pears  in  view,  and  in  each  I  recognise  a  familiar  face, 
wh.eh  ofte,,  greeted  me  in  the  land  where  I  first  drew  my 
brea.h.  and  found  I  had  my  me  in  a  world  of  .„i,  ] 
may  see  other  countries  equally  beautiful  and  grand  in 
-nery,  yet  let  me  he  an  enthusiast  tbr  my  own  dear  na. 

.ron  must  sever  me  from  my  mends  and  conntry.     My 

path  no  one  knows  save  the  Deitv  ^     tu  . 

^  ^^'^y  ■     The  waste  of  waters 

^^"'"""-•'-"■'-"".emysensationswhen 
=hal  firs,  see  the  01,  WoH,?     Wha.  kind  of  country 
18  England  ?  is  Germany  ?  ^ 

Such  were  my  thoughts  while  seated  in  the  Adams 

House,  m  Boston,  to  take  my  breakfast  for  the  last  time 
before  sa.lmg_a„d  while  mustng  thns,  ,  perce,ved  ,u,.e       ' 


'*%■ 


EUROPEAX   OBSERVATIONS. 


13 


a  commotion  among  the  boarders  as  they  sat  at  table,  and 
I  could  distinguish  the  following  sad  sentences,  "  The 
President  is  dead  !  He  died  last  evening."  Then  Gen- 
eral Zachariah  Taylor  is  no  more  !  and  we  shall  take  to 
Europe  the  news  of  his  death.  My  only  wish  on  hearing 
of  this  event  was  for  his  safety ;  and  I  hoped  the  Great 
Spirit  had  forgiven  him  for  killing  so  many  of  the  red  men 
of  my  country. 

"  Haste  !  Haste  !"  the  hands  of  my  watch  told  me,  as 
I  found  that  the  time  of  my  departure  was  near.  Every- 
thing being  in  readiness,  I  took  to  the  steamer,  where  I 
met  my  friends. 

What  a  beautiful  morning  !  The  sky  so  clear,  and 
brought  nearer,  as  it  were,  by  sympathy  with  earth  ! 
The  air,  heated  by  the  warm  sun,  came  to  us  soft  and 
balmy,  as  our  vessel  lay  anchored  in  the  shade.  Life  in 
the  crowded  streets,  and  noise  of  carts  echoing  in  the  busi- 
ness part  of  the  city  ;  and  Commerce  pouring  her  treas- 
ures from  every  clime  to  the  wharf  of  Boston  !  Havin"- 
gazed  with  wonder  and  admiration  on  the  ships,  and 
wharvt.,  and  warehouses,  I  stepped  on  board  the  beauti- 
ful Niagara.  I  found  one  on  board  who  is  going  to  the 
Peace  Congress,  the  Rev.  Dr.  Barrett,  of  Boston      He 


u 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


wa,  attended  by  a  band  of  soldier,,  who  honored  hun  w„h 
their  coming  down  to  see  him  ofl;  because  he  had  tickled 
the.r  ears  with  a  very  neat  and  appropriate  sermon  yes- 
terday.     Just  five  minutes  before  twelve  o'clock,  brandy 
wme,  and  music.     The  Captain  mounted  the  paddie-box' 
and  called  out  "Let  go  I"  and  as  the  wheels  moved  I 
«.ounted  the  long-boat  and  delivered  the  following  ad- 
dress  to  my  friends  on  the  wharf:  which  having  delivered, 
I  had  to  throw  at  them. 


I  ,i*'i 


"  The  day  is  bright'ning  which  we  long  have  sought. 

I  see  Its  early  light  and  hail  its  dawn  • 
The  gentle  voice  of  Peace  ™y  ear  hath  caught, 
And  from  my  forest  home  I  greet  the  morn 
liere,  now,  I  meet  you  with  a  brother's  hand- 
B,d  you  farewell-then  speed  me  on  m^  way 
lo  jom  the  white  men  in  a  foreign  land 

And  from  the  dawn  bring  on  the  bright  noonday. 
Noonday  of  Peace!     O.  glorious  jubilee,  ^ 

When  ail  mankind  are  one  from  sea  to  sea. 

Farewell,  my  native  land,  rock,  hill,  and  plain, 
River  and  lake,  and  forest  home  adieu- 

Months  shall  depart  e'er  I  shall  tread  again 
Am.d  your  scenes,  and  be  once  more  with  you 

I  leave  thee  now ;  but  wheresoeer  I  go 
Whatever  scenes  of  grandeur  meet  my  eyes, 


^ 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 

My  heart  can  but  one  native  country  know, 

And  that,  the  fairest  land  beneath  the  skies. 
America !  farewell ;  thou  art  that  gem, 
Brightest  and  fairest  in  earth's  diadem." 


15 


Having  backed  to  the  middle  of  the  stream,  our  wheels 
rolled  and  thundered  forward,  and  with  the  first  revolu- 
tions they  made,  our  iron  lungs  went 
'' Bangr '' Bangr 

The  echo  having  died  away,  we  were  soon  seen  in  the 
distance. 

The  harbor  of  Boston  appears  most  to  advantage  when 
looking  at  it  from  the  water.  The  waters  are  still,  and 
yet  the  surface  is  all  life-crafts  of  every  name  and  size, 
and  vessels  from  every  country  !  The  flags  of  nations 
here  wave  without  fear. 

The  further  we  were  borne  on  by  our  ship,  the  more 
the  city  of  Boston  seemed  to  lift  up  her  spires,  glittering 
before  the  sun.  The  State  House  rising  above  the  rest, 
appeared  to  look  down  the  chimneys  around  -t.  Viewino- 
this  I  thought  of  my  first  excursion  to  its  summit,  eleven 
years  ago,  when  I  first  attempted  to  learn  the  ways  and 
language  of  the  Pale  Face.  From  yonder  steeple  I  then 
gazed  with  wonder  and  astonishment  on  the  works  of  the 


16 


EUROPPJAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


wh.te  man.     I  had  ju»t  come  from  the  forest,  where  the 
wh,te  man  with  hi,  axe  had  hardly  ever  entered      Tra- 
-S  my  varied  life  was  like  watching  the  snow-white 
clouds,  which  though  lovel>,  now  assume  a  dark  and 
(rownn,g  aspect,  and  anon,  when  they  have  been  rent  by 
slonns,  arc  light  and  fleecy. 

As  we  ploughed  down  and  out  of  the  harbor,  the  sea 
seen,ed  ready  .„  fed  „s  i„  i,s  arms.  A  lovelier  day  I 
Imve  hardly  ever  seen.  May  the  Gods  be  kind  and  pro- 
pitious  I 

The  last  thing  I  could  see  in  the  distance  was  the 
Bunker  Hill  Monument,  which  appeared  to  tower  over  all 
the  surrounding  country.     This   column  was  reared  in 
commemoration  of  a  battle,  and  in  honor  of  men  who 
•ought  bravely  for  their  firesides,  while  they  expelled  the 
red  man  from  his  native  soil.     The  day  I  h„pe  is  „„t  ,i, 
d.stant  when  the  cause  of  Humanity  will  be  blessed  with 
the  men  wito  will  change  this  spirit  of  hero-wchip  into 
adoration  for  everything  noble  and  elevating.     Then  shall 
columns  devoted   to  the   Prince  of  Peace  arise  one  after 
"..other  to  the  clouds,  which  shall  be  hke  beacon  lights 
...  the  highway  of  Progress  for  the  generations  yet  to 
come. 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


17 


The  rocky  Islands  loomed  far  off  in  our  view,  and  soon 
nothing  but  the  dark  outline  of  the  land  could  be  seen — 
and  still  I  gazed  and  gazed,  and  when  it  had  become 
concealed  from  sight,  I  could  with  a  heart  full  of  affection 
for  my  native  land,  say — 

"  America,  America  I  Heaven's  blessing  attend  her  1 
While  we  live  we  •will  cherish,  and  love,  and  defend  her. 
Tho'  the  scorner  may  sneer  at,  and  witlings  defame  her, 
Our  hearts  swell  -with  gladness  whenever  we  name  her." 


To  the  following  gentlemen  I  am  greatly  indebted  for 
their  kindness  in  preparing  for  my  journey.  God  bless 
them.  I  have  never  asked  a  true  American  anything 
but  I  have  received.  I  can  do  nothing  more  than  to 
love  and  cherish  them.  Their  smiles  have  left  a  lasting 
sensation  in  my  heart.  I  may  find  in  the  world  men 
equally  kind  to  me,  but  these  I  shall  never  forget :  J.  P. 
Bigelow,  the  Mayor,  Amos  Lawrence,  Julius  A.  Palmer, 
and  Mr.  Walworth. 

I  might  namo  others  who  have  been  my  friends  in 
Boston.  Those  have  upheld  me  in  all  my  efforts — they 
gave  me  encouragement  in  their  expression  of  good-will 
to  my  race,  and  notwithstanding  all  the  many  aggrava- 
ted wrongs  which  my  poor  brethren  have  received  from 


18 


ECEOPEAN  0BSEBVATI0N3. 


the  hand,  of  .he  Pale  Faee,     I  have  a  nature  within  „e 
wh,eh,  when  I  see  the  kind  aets  of  the  white  man 
covers  a  multitude  of  sins. 

I  have  regarded  the  Christian  of  this  country  a,  one 
whose  opportunities  of  doing  good  have  been  numerous  • 
and  who  when  he  has  embraced  these  opportunities  has 
enjoyed  more  of  Heaven's  smiles  than  any  one  could  ex- 
penence  elsewhere. 

On  board  this  Steamer  bound  for  Europe  are  people 
from  all  parts  of  the  United  S.ates-from  the  south 
north  and  west-caeh  having  an  object  in  view.     Some' 
are  going  to  the  continent,  and  others  on  business  of  an 
official  character,  while  others  are  in  pursuit  of  happi. 
ness  or  riches.     Here  I  am  too_a  Delegate  to  the  Peace 
Congress  in  behalf  of  the  Christian  Indians  of  Ameri. 
ca!    A  few  years,  and  what  a  change  :     Not  very  long 
ago  I  heard  the  war-cry  of  the  West  ringing  in  my  ear. 
The  scattered  and  mangled  remains  of  noble  figures  I 
have  seen;     But  the  dawn  of  a  better  day  has" come. 
The  war-whoop  has  died  away  in  the  song  of  praise  to  the 
Great  Spirit.     Art,  Science,  Literature,  like  a  thousand 
streams,  roll  on  their  mighty  tide,  to  purify  and  refine 
the  Indian  mind. 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


19 


There  is  a  man  on  board  who  seldom  speaks — silent, 
thoughtful,  grave,  even  to  sadness.  Who  can  he  be  ? 
An  Englishman  in  appearance,  an  Englishman  I  find 
him  to  be.  But  sad  his  experience  !  The  Q,ueen  City 
of  the  West  vi^ill  be  to  him  an  interesting  spot,  for  in 
travelling  while  there  a  bright  and  noble  youth  died, 
and  that  man  is  his  father,  carrying  the  sad  intelligence 
to  his  own  domestic  circle  of  the  death  of  his  son.  His 
intention  was  to  have  travelled  all  over  the  United 
States  and  the  Canadas,  that  this  son  of  his  might  bee  as 
much  as  was  desirable  of  the  New  World  before  he 
should  settle  down  in  some  professional  calling. 

But  what  a  contrast !  There  is  a  Southern  gentleman 
whose  very  finger  ends  are  full  of  life,  and  whose  wit- 
ticisms set  the  whole  company  in  a  roar  of  laughter.  So 
full  of  animation,  so  full  of  oddity  is  he  that  you  have 
only  to  look  that  way  and  a  hearty  laugh  will  instantly 
put  to  flight  a  legion  of  '<  blues,"  if  you  happen  to  be 
troubled  with  these  unwelcome  visitors. 

Sea-sickness  !  0  what  utter  wretchedness  and  mise- 
ry !  The  wind  is  fair,  the  sky  is  clear,  and  the  boat 
moving  at  the  rate  of  thirteen  knots  an  hour.  A  table 
groaning  with  good  things,  but  the  very  sight  of  them 


lil 


ii 


20 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


distracts  you.  I  have  been  trying  my  best  to  eat,  but 
cannot—and  perfectly  disgusted  with  the  eatables  of  the 
salojn,  good  as  they  are,  bid  adieu  to  all,  and  "turn  in" 
for  the  night  about  8  o'clock. 


k^ 


I 


""^ 


CHAPTER  II. 


THE   OCEAN. 


Old  Ocean  I  Here  it  is,  surrounding  me  on  all  sides  ! 
— To  the  limit  of  human  vision  this  expanse  of  waters 
is  illimitable,  except  that  it  is  bounded  by  the  horizon, 
which  forever  recedes  as  we  approach  it.  How  appal- 
lingly is  the  mind  impressed  in  contemplating  these  huge 

domains!     What  wonders    lie  in  the  world  beneath 

familiar  to  the  monsters  of  the  deep,  but  strange  and 
mysterious  to  us.  Here  too  are  objects  of  terror— shoals 
and  quicksands  that  lie  treacherously  concealed,  waiting 
the  behests  of  Fate,  and  the  maniac  fury  of  the  Ocean  to 
give  to  their  desolate  bosoms  the  treasures  of  which  they 
are  forever  bereft.  Our  noble  ship  is  now  sailing  over 
deep  valleys  and  lofty  mountains,  like  an  eagle  in  upper 
air,  and  the  peering  eye  of  Imagination,  which  is  sharper 
than  the  eagle's,  sees  far  down,  dismal  caverns  and  the 


V  i 


4 


22 


EUROPEAN  OBSEKVATIONa. 


i«ve,„e.,.  of  h„„,a„  bones.  Porchance  there  are  i,.  that 
iatho,„le,a  region  tho,e  who  porforn,  the  ritea  of  Chria- 
fan  burial  for  the  „oor  sailor,  and  that  his  body  repose, 
m  some  sepulehre-but  ah  <.  it  eaunot  be. 

A  hie  on  the  sea  and  a  life  „„  ,he  la„d_h„w  slrikin. 
'l.e  contrast  I     Reverting  from  the  present  to  n.y  child- 
hood,  and  from  the  sea  to  „.,y  home  in  ,h„  forest  I  re- 
member a  saifor,  by  the  name  of  Lewis,  who  strayed 
from  the  coast  to  my  father's  lodge,  and  who  became  so 
attached  to  onr  mode  of  hfe  that  he  lived  with  ns  three 
or  fonr  years.     When  he  came  to  understand  onr  Ian- 
guage  so  as  to  be  understood  in  the  n-igwam,  he  told  u. 
many  a  thrilling  tale  of  the  sea.     F,  ,.,  this  stray  son  of 
the  ocean  I  gathered  my  reverence  for  the  sea  ;  and  the 
thought  of  its  waves  throbbing  upon  the  shore  swelled 
n.y  heart  wuh  emotion.     The  one  thought  that  has  been 
w,lh  me  ever  since  is  of  its  awful  grandeur,  and  of  it, 

Manitou  who  made  all  things, 
tell  us  of  a  monstrous  great  hsh, 


su 


no  doubt 
maids. 


t  cue  v.h.ie-and  of  sharks,  sea-bears  and 


mer- 


superstitious  tales  of  the  sea  found  a  ready 
woleome  in  the  wigwam  of  the  Indian,  by  his  warm  fire 
-a  hospitable  board.     In  the  winter  nights,  eighteen 


1 


are  in  that 
8  of  Chris- 
5dy  reposes 

w  striking- 
niy  child- 
rest,  I  re- 

0  strayed 
lecatne  so 

1  us  three 
our  lan- 

e  told  us 

ly  son  of 
and  the 
swelled 

las  been 

d  of  its 

ngs. 

eat  fish, 

id  mer- 

a  ready 

rm  fire 

ghteen 


EUROPE  AN   OBSERVATIONS. 


28 


years  ago,  I  would  sit  with  iny  chin  resting  on  the  palms 
of  my  hands,  and,  listening  to  Lewis,  drink  in  the  whole 
story  of  the  ocean.  His  "  yarns"  were  long  and  tough, 
hard  to  digest,  yet  I  believed  all  he  said,  ibr  his  sage 
pipe,  added  to  my  veneration  for  age  (for  his  locks  were 
white  and  he  had  trod  for  years  the  hard  path  of  experi- 
ence), gave  me  the  most  implicit  confidence  in  him. 
These  tales,  wakened  to  life  by  the  sea-breeze,  are  now 
crowding  in  my  head — but  where  is  the  sea-munster? 
Stop  !  be  patient  I  we  shall  see  the  father  of  black  fish 
by-and-by. 

The  secottd  day  out.     No  wind  of  any  account — the 

sky  is  clear — the  sun's  lieating  rays  pour  on  our  deck 

deep  waves  roll  onward  and  before  us,  as  if  they  feared 
to  be  overtaken — our  foaming  track  stretches  like  a  fur- 
row over  the  field  of  waters — Our  vessel  rolls  heavily 
onward,  the  ar«is  of  iron  clashing  below  the  deck,  and 
the  wheels  thundering  their  revolutions  through  the 
foaming  billows — Our  bow  now  rising  and  bowing  ma- 
jestically, and  now  see-sawing  over  the  ridge  of  a  moun- 
tain wave.  0  delightful  ride,  were  it  not  for  sea-sick- 
ness !  What  indescribable  misery  does  this  single  word 
impart  I     It  is  as  if  a  dozen  live  chickens  were  fighting 


24 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


in  you,  or  dancing  a  half-civiiized  polka.  Imagine  this, 
and  you  will  have  a  good  idea  of  sea-sickness.  But 
enough  of  this,  for  it  is  now  comparatively  calm,  and 
our  company  one  by  one  ascend  the  quarter-deck  to 
promenade  with  zigzag  steps. 

"A  whale  on  the  starboard  side!"  sang  out  one  of 
the  crew.     There,  sure  enough,  at  more  than  two  miles, 
distance,    the    spray    rose  at   intervals,  and   long  did  I 
watch  it,   and  not  till  it  had  passed  from  sight  did  I 
begin  to  realize  that  I  was  on  the  ocean,  where  there  are 
monsters  that  play   with  the  waves  as  if  they  were  the 
ripples   of   a    lake.     Then   again  Lewis's    "  sea  yarns" 
came  trooping  around  me,  and  the  sight  I  had  just  be- 
held gave  fresh  coloring  to  his  pictures. 

Thefoicrth  day.     Still  the  wind  is  fair;  our  sails  in 
full  stretch-the  waves  rise  higher  and  higher-a  mo- 
notonous life  in  a  very  small  kingdom  is  tiat  on  shipboard 
-yet  we  have  here  the  Scotchman  s  "  war-whoop."  the 
bagpipe,  squeaking  most  delightiul  music.     The  young 
man  himself  who  greased  the  wheels  of  Time  by  opening 
and  shutting  his  arms  over  the  bag  of  wind,  apparently 
enjoyed  the  sound :    and  certainly  those  who  can  find 
something  to  admire  in  this,  have  more  discrimination 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


26 


magine  this, 

kness.     But 

calm,  and 

rter-deck  to 

out  one  of 
two  miles, 
long  did  I 
sight  did  I 
e  there  are 
y  were  the 
sea  yarns" 
d  just  be- 

IV  sails  in 
-r — a  mo- 
shipboard 
loop,"  the 
he  young 
f  opening 
pparently 
can  find 
mination 


than  I  am  possessed  of.  Up  and  down  he  trod  the 
quarter-deck,  treading  out  his  music  and  smiling  at  his 
fine  performance— ogling  and  squinting,  and  laughing 
expressively  at  one  corner  of  his  mouth.  This  is  what 
our  backwoodsmen  would  call  a  big-horned  music.  But 
it  is  a  good  mu^ic  when  nothing  else  can  be  got ;  and 
thankful  we  are  to  enjoy  it. 

It  is  night  again,  and  the  bright-eyed  stars  one  by  one 
peer  out,  beholding  themselves  reflected  in  the  sea.  I 
stand  on  the  stern  of  the  boat,  and  whole  worlds  mirror 
their  bright  faces  on  this  ocean.  There  goes  a  shooting 
star  :— and  along  its  fiery  track  lies  a  trail  of  glory, 
dying  behind  it.  It  is  gone  !  but  where  ?  Why  did  the 
never-dying  stars  tremble  as  it  passed  ? 

I  was  taught  in  the  woods  that  these  bright  stars  were 
the  homes  of  the  good  and  the  great— that  each  one  was 
a  representative  of  some  hero  of  former  ages,  whose  vir- 
tucs  shone   in  the   skies  according  as  he  had  done  on 
earth.     If  so— which   of  these  represent  a  Howard,  a 
Raikcs,  a  Calvin,   a  Luther,    a  Wesley,    and  a  Wash- 
ington ?     In  deeds  of  virtue  God  is  the  San,  and  others 
appear,  only  when  He  is  the  centre  of  attraction.     The 
sun  has  gone  down  in  the  west,  carrying  comets  in  his 


26 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


iJ  i| 


fiery  bosom,  but  in  a  few  short  hours  he  will  ascend  the 
eastern  skies,  and  glory  will  spread  over  the  sea,  and  the 
rolling  billows  will  shout  his  welcome.     What  a  journey 
will  the  earth  have  accomplished  in  a  few  short  hours  I 
But  what  is  this  compared   with  the    speed   of  the 
mind  ?     Give  lightning  the  start  by  a  million  of  furlongs, 
and  the  mind  will  be  the  first  to  reach  its  destination.    It 
is  itself  a  universe  of  stars,  and  of  these  there  is  a  polar 
star  by  which  in  this  world  it  guides  its  frail  bark  over 
the  ocean  of  life.    As  the  speed  of  a  body  may  be  so  great 
that  the  distance  over  which  it  passes  is  imperceptible, 
so  it  is  with  the  mind.     In  the  twinkling  of  an  eye  it 
travels  to  whatever  part  of  creation  it  pleases — and  the 
eye  of  the  mind  possesses  magnifying  powers  that  no  dis- 
tance can  elude. 

I  have  no  doubt  but  that  at  this  very  moment  Dr.  Dick 
and  Dr.  Nichol  are  travelling  from  star  u  star  with  their 
telescopes.  I  have  learned  from  these  star-gazers  much 
useful  reflection.  These  rolling  wheels,  which  are  a  fee- 
ble representation  of  the  revolving  spheres,  say  I  shall 
yet  see  them  in  the  old  world.  Like  a  child  I  would  sit 
at  their  feet  and  learn  wisdom.  A  few  hours  ago  I  felt 
nothing  but  the  monotony  of  the  scene — now,  new  beau- 


•f 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


27 


ascend  the 
ea,  and  the 
-t  a  journey 
hort  hours  I 
3ed  of  the 
of  furlongs, 
ination.  It 
!  is  a  polar 
I  bark  over 
be  so  great 
)erceptible, 
f  an  eye  it 
i — and  the 
hat  no  dis- 

it  Dr.  Dick 
with  their 
Lzers  much 
[  are  a  fee- 
iay  I  shall 
'.  would  sit 
;  ago  I  felt 
new  beau- 


ties are  seen  in  every  spray  and  new  glories  in  the  sky. 
This  is  the  very  place  where  one  can  realize  something 
on  which  the  soul  can  live.     Say  what  you  will,  I  feel 
like  a  man.     The  ocean  has  turned  slave,  and  bears  us 
on  its  back  to  a  distant  land.     The  mightiest  element  is 
conquered  by  man,  and  its  waves  in  humiliating  agony 
die  groaning  at  his  feet.     I  feel  a  more  vital  current 
running  through  my  veins  when  I  reflect  that  some  part 
of  mc  is  immortal.     What  if  fleets  and  navies  are  some- 
times engulphed  in  the  sea,  and  thousands  go  down  to 
people  its  caverns, — the  mind,  the  soul,  yet  lives,  and 
must  live  on  though  the  last  billow  should  howl  its  wail 
of  woe  for  the  expiring  stars.     Every  strip  of  sail,  every 
rope,   every  spar,   and  every  revolution  of  the  paddle, 
echoes   the   sentiment   that    man   is   immortal.     Every 
breath  of  steam  and  every  clash  of  polished  steel  in  this 
wonderful  machine  that  is  urging  us  onward,  tells  me 
that  man  alone  is  next  to  God.     The  forests  may  wave 
their  heads,  and  the  mighty  rivers  may  roll  on,  singing 
their  songs  of  exultation— yet  are  they  but  the  emblem 
of  human  majesty  and  greatness.     The  mountains  may 
rise  to  the  sky,  or  pierce  the  home  of  the  Great  Spirit- 
yet  man  is  the  one  for  whom  this  world  is  made,  and 


m 


M« 


28 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


who  was  made  for  a  world  higher  than  this.  The  ocean 
may  be  his  burial-place,  or  the  wide  earth  may  become 
one  vast  cemetery,  where  rich  and  poor,  master  and 
slave,  civilized  and  savage,  with  friends  and  enemies,  lie 
side  by  side.  No  distinction  now  !  Sleep  on,  ye  genera- 
tions, sleep  I  Over  your  graves  I  shall  yet  stray.  A  day 
in  weeping  or  laughing,  and  then  I  too  will  haste  away. 

0  ye  bright  worlds  that  are  now  waiting,  embrace  the 
good  who  are  departing  I  Ye  stars,  when  ye  "  shout  for 
joy,"  say  to  the  departing  spirit,  "Your  toils  are  ended." 

I  could  stay  in  this  place  all  night,  and  feast  my  soul 
with  contemplation.  The  dew  and  the  spray  are  damp- 
ening the  deck,  the  passengers  have  all  gone  to  rest,  and 

1  too  must  seek  my  resting-place. 


The  ocean 
may  become 
master  and 
enemies,  lie 
1,  ye  genera- 
;ray.    A  day 
haste  away, 
embrace  the 
e  "  shout  for 
are  ended." 
ast  my  soul 
y  are  damp- 
to  rest,  and 


CHAPTEK   III. 


THE   OCEAN". 


The  morning  dawns — but  old  Neptune  is  either  asleep 
or  has  gone  to  visit  some  "  watering  place"  at  the  north. 
The  red-faced  sun  rises  out  of  the  sea,  and  I  greet  him 
with  a  fraternal  welcome.  Majestically  he  ascends  the 
eastern  slope,  and  claims  the  whole  azure  sky  as  his 
kingdom.  His  rays  are  pencilled  on  a  floating  canvass 
of  clouds,  which  the  skilful  fancy  would  fain  weave  into 
the  most  beautiful  drapery.  If  Sol  would  only  paint  such 
a  picture  of  sea  and  sky  on  the  canvass  over  my  head  as 
I  now  behold  !— But  there  is  a  daguerreotype  of  it  on 
my  memory  which  the  sun-light  will  not  fade. 

An  iceberg  ahead  !  I  have  read  of  icebergs,  but  this 
is  the  first  I  ever  saw.  It  towers  high,  like  the  sail  of  a 
ship.  I  cannot  look  at  it  without  associating  it  with  the 
ill-fated   "President."     A   thousand  distressing   images 


I 


80 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


present  themselves  at  the  thought  that  she  may  have 
been  sunk  by  such  an  iceberg.     The  screams  and  groans 
of  the   dying,  mingled  with  the  sudden  letting  off  of 
steam  and  the  roaring  of  the  waters,  as  she  sank  to  rise 
no  more— I  will  not  think  of  it !     There  was  one  on 
board  who  stirred  the  souls  of  men  with  holy  zeal,  but 
whose   heart,  burning   on   the   altar   of  his   God,   was 
quenched  in  the  merciless  v^aters.     That  noble  soul  was 
George  Cuokman.     Those  eyes  which  electrified  assem- 
blies with  their  glance,  are  set  like  stars  in  the  ocean. 
Those  hands  which  with  their  gestures  threw  a  magic 
spell  over  the  spectators,  are  perished    forever.      That 
voice  which  stirred  the  fourtain   of  feeling  to  its  very 
depths,  is  hushed,  and  the  sea-shell  whispers  his  dirge  on 
the  deep.     But  his  memory  still  lives  in  our  hearts.    His 
stirring  eloquence  breathes  the  same  spirit  as  of  yore. 
The  vestments  of  his  high-born  thoughts,  and  the  image- 
ry  with   which   he   surrounded    himself,   proclaim   his 
genius.     The  knowledge  diffused  in  his  ardent  desire  for 
the  good  of  others,  is  still  spreading.     The  ideas  which 
he  awakened  in  the  mhids  of  others  are  extending  them- 
selves, for  as  there  is  no  bound  set  to  the  progress  of  truth 
so  there  is  no  limit  to  the  pursuit  of  it.     Eternity  must 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


81 


may  have 
and  groans 
ting  off  of 
sank  to  rise 
i^as  one  on 
'y  zeal,  but 

God,  was 
le  soul  was 
fied  assem- 
the  ocean. 
w  a  magic 
er.      That 
0  its  very 
is  dirge  on 
!arts.    His 
s  of  yore, 
he  image- 
claim   his 
desire  for 
as  which 
ng  them- 
s  of  truth 
nity  must 


be  shortened  and  infinity  must  contract  its  empire,  before 
the  rays  of  truth  will  cease  to  fly  onward.  The  influence 
of  this  one  man  will  cause  heaven  to  widen  its  domains ; 
and  like  a  grain  falling  into  the  earth  the  soul  will  there 
multiply  itself,  having  laid  its  body  in  the  dust  and  as- 
cended to  its  God. 

"  The  soul  on  earth  is  an  immortal  guest, 
Compelled  to  starve  at  an  unreal  feast ; 
A  spark  ^vhich  upward  tends  by  nature's  force ; 
A  stream,  divided  from  its  parent  source ; 
A  drop,  dissevered  from  the  boundless  sea ; 
A  moment,  parted  from  eternity; 
A  pilgrim,  panting  for  the  rest  to  come  ; 
An  exile,  anxious  for  his  native  home." 

It  is  calculated  that  at  the  close  of  this  day  we  shall  be 
near  the  middle  of  the  Atlantic,  between  the  Old  World 
and  the  New,  and  then  I  am  to  read  a  letter  which  was 
not  to  be  opened  until  the  first  half  of  the  voyage  had 
been  accomplished.     On  its  back  was  written— 

"  To  Kahgegagahbowlk, 

Present. 
N.  B.     Not  to  be  opened  and  read  until  half-way  over, 
on  his  voyage  to  Europe. 

By  his  friend  J.  S.  A." 


82 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


1-^ 


I  have  had  my  curiosity  excited  to  know  what  was  in 
it,  for  an  Indian  has  some  curiosity,  though  he  does  not 
show  it  by  opening  his  eyes  and  mouth  unmercifully,  as 
refmed  and  polite  nations  do,  who  have  more  manners 
than  the  red  man. 

Soon  after  sunset  I  was  informed  that  we  were  half- 
way  over  the  sea,  which  is  not  what  the  sailor  always 
means  by  "  half-seas-over."     I  walked  to  the  bow  of  the 
boat,  and  there  stood,  looking  about  me  on  all  sides.     Be- 
fore me,  nothing  could  I  see-behind  me  I  eould  see  noth- 
ing  but  the  faint  track  of  the  stcamer_on  my  right,  noth- 
ing  was  to  be  seen,  and  on  my  left,  there  was  no  visible 
object.     Above  me  the  stars  shone  brightly,  and  beneath 
me  was  the  dark  blue  sea.     Here  is  mid  ocean ;  I  can 
imagine  myself  suspended  between  the  Old  World  and  the 
New,  at  the  distance  of  1500  miles  in  each  direction. 
The  ocean  where  we  are  now-0  how  deep  it  is  !     How 
is  my  soul  oppressed  with  the  feeling  of  immensity  !     A 
sea  without  visible  limit^this  is  something  which  with- 
out  knowledge  cannot  be  contemplated  without  terror.    " 
Plere  is  a  place  to  think  of  the  Great  Spirit,  and  to  feel 
him  near  you.     For  the  first  time,  I  felt  awed  by  the 
thought  that  though  man  may  subdue  the  sea,  yet  God  is 


SI 

1 


hat  was  in 
10  does  not 
rcifully,  as 
e  manners 

vere  half- 
or  always 
ow  of  the 
des,     Be- 

see  noth- 
?ht,  noth- 
10  visible 
•  beneath 
1 ;  I  can 
I  and  the 
lirection. 
I     How 
ity !    A 
'h.  with- 
;  terror. 

to  feel 

by  the 


EUROPEAN  OBSEKVATIONS. 


83 


greater  than  man.  Like  the  petrel  over  the  stormy  sea, 
man  roams  the  ocean  of  life,  tossed  and  agitated  by  a 
thousand  anxieties. 

This  is  about  half-way.  The  waves  are  rocking  cur 
faithful  boat  as  if  they  thought  it  might  now  take  a  little 
rest.  The  sea  sings  a  lullaby  like  the  tree-tops  in  my  na- 
tive forests.  I  dream  of  land  again,  where  summer  never 
forsakes  the  plains,  and  where  spring  never  forsakes  the 
beautiful  vales.  Rivers  swell  their  tides  eternally,  and 
mountains  clothed  in  nature's  own  garb,  lose  their  tops  in 
the  clouds — this  is  the  land  for  the  Indian. 


"  Alas  that  dreams  are  only  dreams ! 

That  fancy  cannot  give 
A  lasting  beauty  to  those  forms 
Which  scarce  a  moment  live." 
2^ 


God 


IS 


CHArTER  ly. 

IRISH  CHANXEL  AND  COAST. 

Awoke  and  ^ot  up  at  4  o'clock,  having  slept  but  little. 

The  light-house  appeared  abreast  of  us,  and  the  Cape  on 

our  right.     What  a  relief  it  is  to  see  land  again  !     The 

shore  is   barren,  and  the  country  perfectly  naked.     The 

Island  on  our  left  has  a  house  on  it.  and  a  small  patch  of 

cultivated  land. 

The  sky  is  hazy,  anj  the  atmosphere  has  a  fo-fry  ap. 
pearance.  The  hills  „„  the  Irish  coast  are  desolaWook- 
me  objects.  Cold  Ireland  l_yet  a  land  of  warm  hearts  • 
A  country  of  famine,  yet  full  „f  ,h„,  „,t„^,  ^.^,.^,^_^ 
wh,ch  makes  one  "  laugh  and  grow  fat."  The  hills  ap- 
pear  bold,  and  so  naked  that  I  shudder  at  the  idea  ofliv- 
ing  in  such  a  country. 

I  have  heard  a  great  deal  about  Erin.     The  fortunes 
of  the  Irish  are  as  varied  as  those  oi'iny  own  i^ople-the 


ty 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


35 


history  of  both  is  mostly  a  history  of  misfortunes.  The 
Iris'imau  has  nobly  struf]ffiled  aj^aiiist  the  tide  of  adversity 
that  has  been  bearinj^  him  downward,  and  though  phy- 
sically defeated,  he  is  in  mind  unconquered,  and  has  still 
a  name  in  the  world. 

On  our  right  are  the  hills  of  "  ould  Ireland,"  and  we 
are  nearing  l^e  famrous  Giant's  Causeway.  The  cultiva- 
ted parts  of  the  shore  appear  in  dots,  and  we  are  near 
enough  to  sec  the  "  huts,"  about  which  so  much  has  been 
said  in  ridicule  and  commiseration.  Pointing  with  our 
spy-glass  in  the  direction  of  the  houses,  we  see  men  and 
women,  and  children  running  about  the  huts.  Spot  after 
spot  is  green,  and  the  crops  of  the  year  are  beginning  to 
be  gathered.  The  fields  of  "  Murphys,"  the  staple  food 
of  the  Irish,  can  be  seen. 

What  a  delightful  morning  greets  us  on  our  entering 
the  Irish  Chamtel  /  This  channel  I  have  read  and 
heard  about,  and  now,  in  the  many  associations  with 
which  it  is  connected  in  my  voyage  to  the  Old  World,  it 
will  never  be  forgotten.  The  channel  is  covered  with 
sails,  and  sprinkled  here  and  there  with  ducks.  The  sky 
is  now  clear  as  far  as  a  sky  in  this  country  can  be,  for  I 
have  heard  much  of  the  fogginess  of  Ireland. 


I 


se 


EU KOPK AX   O USEIiVATIOXS. 


Lookhior  over  the  hills,  T  say  lo  myiself;  "  This  is  Paddy 
land  !"  and  the  very  thoi.crht  of  Paddy  is  so  full  of  drol- 
lery that  I  laugh  outright  Avheii  I  think  of  the  genuine 
wit  of  the  Irish.  I  have  had  in  my  native  land,  reasons 
to  thank  the  Irish,  for  when  I  have  met  an  Irish  gentle- 
man I  have  found  a  gentleman  indeed— high-minded, 
generous,  and  noble  I 

This  is  the  Emerald  Isle  which  I  have  seen  the  emi- 
grant in  Canada  weep  for  !     A  love  of  country  is  in  my 
breast !     There  is  none  so  devoid  of  feeling  but  that  at 
times  he  sighs  for  home  ;  and  in  my  own  country  I  have 
seen  this  people  weep,  wringing  their  hands,  while  they 
talked   of  Cork,    the   scenery  of   Killarney,    the    famed 
Blarney-stone,  and  a  thousand  other  things.     This  people 
have  two  peculiarities,  2vit  and  fecli?tg,  which  together 
make  eloquence,  for  which  they  are  so  celebrated.     The 
heart's  blood  of  the  Irishman  is  warm  :  his  passions  some- 
times overrule  his  better  judgment.     There  is  a  noble 
daring  in  his  nature  which  is  not  easily  extinguished. 
The  sweet  flower  of  hospitality  is  forever  budding  in  his 
dwelling,  however  low  and  humble  it  may  be.     There  is 
a  queer  drollery  in  each  corner  of  his  mouth  and  eyes. 
His  life  is  full  of  great  vicissitudes. 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


S7 


This  is  the  land  which  fiavc  birth  to  O'Connell,  the 
fiery  luj^ot  of  eloquence  1  His  tongue  I'anned  the  fire 
of  Patriotism,  and  bathed  a  nation  in  tears.  O'C'onnell 
stood  pre-eminent  in  the  British  Tarliament  until  his 
death.  When  he  spoke,  the  shaggy  mane  of  the  Briti&h 
Lion  gave  evidence  of  the  magnetism  of  his  oratory. 
The  tears  of  O'Connell  mingled  with  the  tears  of  the 
two  Houses,  and  of  the  Reporters,  who  could  not  help 
weeping  at  the  recital  of  Ireland's  misfortunes.  The 
warm  hearts  of  his  people  justly  loved  him.  This  car- 
ries me  back  to  a  scene  which  I  witnessed  in  Canada, 
and  which,  though  common,  made  a  strong  impression 
upon  me. 

On  the  afternoon  of  a  certain  day,  quite  late  in  the 
Fall,  my  father  and  I,  being  on  a  hunting  excursion, 
paused  before  the  cabin  of  a  settler,  and  soon  we  heard 
the  peculiar  brogue  of  the  Irish  inviting  us  to  come  in. 
My  father  lighted  his  pipe  and  was  going  out,  when  the 
man  of  the  cabin  insisted  he  should  sit  down.  The 
scanty  appearance  of  straw  in  one  corner  told  the 
amount  they  had  of  this  world's  goods.  "Sit  down, 
master,  sit  down  wid  me."  My  father  took  a  seat,  and 
then  commenced  a  queer  conversation.     From  all  that  I 


I 


88 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIOXS. 


y 


could  learn  from  my  imperfect  knowledge  of  English,  he 
was  trying  to  impress  my  father  with  the  greatness  of 
Daniel  O'Connell,  his  achievements  in  Ireland,  and  his 
speeches  in  the  British  Parliament.     My  father  under- 
stood only  a  few  words  of  English  :  "  no"    and  "  yes" 
were  the  only  ones  he  used  in  his  responses.     The  Irish- 
man  would  show  how  O'Connell  stood  while  addressing 
the  British  Lorus,  and  then  with  a  significant  look  say  to 
my  father,   "  You  think  O'Connell  a  great  man  ?"     My 
father  with  a  shake  of  the  head  answered  "no,"    not 
knowing   which   of  the   two   words   in   his  vocabulary 
ought   to   be  used.     "You  say  no?''     "Yes,"  said  my 
father,  with  a  nod,  very  innocently  confessing  to  having 
used    that   word   instead    of  "  yes."     But  the   enraged 
Irishman  thought  all  the  while  that  my  father  deprlci- 
ated  the    Statesman   of  his   native  land.     "  You  mean 
'yes,'  eh?"  "Yes,"   said  my  father  with  a  smile  that 
seemed  to  deprecate  the  Irishman's  vengeance  ;  and  this 
ended  the  interview,  which  was  as  warm  as  the  heart  of 
an  Irishman  would  admit  of  without  coming  to  blows. 

This  incident  of  my  boyhood  rushes  into  my  head  as 
fresh  as  if  it  had  happened  just  now  ;  but  at  that  time 
little    did   I  expect   ever  to  see  the  land  of  this  race  of 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


39 


people.  Now  here  it  is  I  its  cold  bleak  hills  towering 
above  the  mist  which  creeps  along  the  edge  of  the  shore, 
and  winding  ravines  full  of  huts  clustering  together. 

Having  rested  but  little  last  night,  I  fell  asleep,  and  to 
my  utter  disappointment  when  I  awoke  we  had  passed 
the  Giant's  Causeway  !  and  I  could  only  have  a  glimpse 
of  it  as  it  receded  in  the  distance. 

Ships  are  seen  all  over  the  surface  of  the  channel.  It 
is  very  still  and  calm.  How  aggravating  it  must  be  to 
sec  us  shoot  by  them  and  they  almost  stationary  I  Vari- 
ous cities  of  Ireland  appear  on  our  right.  The  sky  is 
full  of  fog, — and  on  our  left  we  see  Scotland.  Numerous 
sea-birds  are  flying  around  us. 

I  am  determined  to  see  the  Blarney-stone  some  day. 
Weary  and  tired  though  I  am,  and  with  aching  eyes,  I 
must  sit  down  to  write  a  note  to  my  father. 


"  No-say. 

"  Me  quach  ne  de  nain  ne  mah  owh  Monedo.  Tah 
que  she  non  Omah.  Me  nwah  bah  me  nah  quod  sah 
Ewh  Odah  keem  Ewh  Me  no  seno  we  ne  neh."  (I  had 
better  not  write  this  letter  in  Indian,  on  the  pages  of 
this  book,  for  fear  some  one  will  come  on  me  for  darn- 


I 


i 


1 


40 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


ages  for  the  breaking  of  his  jaw  while  trying  to  speak 
the  words.) 

THE    INTSRPRETATION. 

"  Father. 

"  I  thank  the  Great  Spirit  that  I  have  arrived  here 
safe.  I  am  now  in  the  land  of  tlie  Irishman.  By  its 
looks  I  should  think  it  a  very  pleasant  land." 

At  2  o'clock  we  see  the  Isle  of  Man.     On  our  left, 
steamboat  sans  in  view  at  a  distance. 

5  o'clock.  The  steamer  for  America  is  now  in  sight 
Our  signal  hoisted,  "  The  President  is  dead  !"  and  the 
captain  of  the  steamer  read  the  signal.  "  Sir  Robert 
Peel  is  dead,"  was  the  answer. 

At  10  o'clock  we  see  the  lights  along  the  docks,  and 
our  gnn'^  repeat  the  sound  with  which  we  parted  from 
the  wharf  of  Boston,  'bang,'  'bang,'  '  bang,' with  two 
others  added,  by  which  the  people  will  expect  to  hear 
somethmg  more  than  usual  by  this  steamer.  The  line 
of  lights  makes  a  splendid  appearance,  and  if  the  docks 
are  equal  in  extent  what  must  I  think  of  the  commerce 
of  this  city  ?  We  dropped  anchor  a  short  time  before 
12  o'clock. 


W 


EUKOrEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


r 


This  is  Liverpool. 

Wo   meet   some   of  those   who   preceded  us   to  this 

country. 

Sunday  morning.  I  hunted  among  those  to  whom  I 
carried  letters  for  some  one  who  would  invite  me  to  at- 
tend church  with  him,  and  was  fortunate  enough  to  suc- 
ceed. Spoke  in  the  al'tcrnoon.  Encountered  a  few 
dozen  beggars  in  the  street  on  my  way  to  church.  1 
find  it  hard  to  get  small  change  for  them  all. 


=  *-|i 


It'' 

3! 


'J ; 


ii«    > 


i 


I 


CHAPTER  V. 

ARRIVAL— STRAXGE   THINGS  AND   PEOPLE- 
DOCKS — SHIPS,    ETC. 

The  Liverpool  Times  announced  my  arrival  in  the 
fol lowing  lans^uage  : 

"  A  Chief  of  the  Ojibway  NATioN.-The  steam-ship 
Niagara,  which  arrived  on  Saturday  last,  brought  over  to 
this  country  the  Rev.   George   Copway,  or  Kah-Ge-Ga- 
Gah-Bowh,    a   chief  of  the    Ojibway   nation.     Twelve 
years  ago  he  was  a  hunter  in  the  woods  of  America,  but 
having  obtained  his  education  at  the  expense  of  some 
benevolent  gentleman  of  the  state  of  Illinois,  during  the 
years    1838-9,  he  returned  to  his  nation,  determined  to 
labor  Ibr  the  elevation  of  his  tribe.     He  has  devised  a 
scheme  for  concentrating  and   civilizing   the  American 
Indians  of  the  north-west,  upon  territory  to  be  purchased 
by  the  free  contributions  of  the  American  people  ;  and 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


43 


wo  uriilerstand  he  intends  shortly  to  hokl  a  meeting  in 
this  town  with  the  view  of  explaining  the  object  at 
which  he  aims.  He  is  a  fine,  noble-looking  man,  very 
intelligent,  and  speaks  the  English  language  with  great 
fluency,  correctness,  and  elegance.  He  purposes  attend- 
ing the  Peace  Congress  at  Frankfort,  and  his  stay  here 
will  necessarily  be  very  limited.  He  sat  on  the  bench 
with  Mr.  Rushton,  on  Wednesday  last,  for  a  short  time, 
and  appeared  to  take  great  interest  in  the  proceedings  of 
the  Police  Court." 

To  Mr.  Baines  the  Editor  of  the  Times,  and  to  the 
Editors  of  the  other  papers,  I  am  indebted  for  the  kind 
manner  in  which  they  came  forward  to  place  me  before 
the  citizens  of  Liverpool  and  the  British  public  in  general. 
This,  then,  is  a  part  of  England.  How  crowded  are 
the  streets  1  What  large  truck  horses  1  with  plenty  of 
oiiaiibuses  and  noisy  beggars ;  and  worse  than  all,  the 
shaving  hack-drivers.  Beardless  as  I  am  comparatively, 
they  yet  manage  to  shave  me. 

Sabbath  morning,  I  went  to  see  the  Rev.  Mr.  Penncll, 
brother  of  a  friend  of  mine  in  New  York.  This  gentle- 
man's kindness  was  serviceable  to  me  in  a  great  many 
ways— I  shall  not  forget  it.     We  attended  a  meeting 


*'    l>i 


li 


H-  ^ 


h  * 


I        & 


u 


E r itOPKAN   0U8E It VATlONri. 


out  ol'  town  ill  the  rural  district  of  Seacornbo.     The  Old 


World   beiiijr  new  1 


o  me,  my  first  business  will   be  to 


make  observation  of  tlii 


ii^'s,  and  to  describe  tlietn  as  I 


sec 


tl 


lem. 


Lik 


e  .1 


new  being  on  the  sta«re  of  lile,  I  must 
gatb,  i-  ihj  materials  (or  future  reilectiou.  I  am  now  a 
school-boy,  and  I  shall  study  the  English  character,  and 
leurn  if  jjossible  some  of  its  many  noble  qualities. 

Now,  alter  live  days,  gazing,  I  have  seen  somethin.r 
of  the  English.  How  kind  they  are!  The  name  of 
Charles  ^Sumner,  of  Boston,  is  here  justly  appreciated,  Ibr 
wherever  1  have  delivered  the  letters  from  this  gentle- 
man I  have  met  with  a  cordial  reception. 

I  am  snugly  housed  with  the  Rev.  G .  Pennell.  The 
Mersey  river  sweeps  before  me,  ebbing  and  llowing  with 
the  sea.  The  view  of  the  harbor  is  beautiful  !  Belbre 
these  several  items  of  interest  grow  cold  I  will  sit  down 
and  write  a  friend  in  Boston,  the  Kev.  Mr.  Norris,  for  I 
must  still  send  '•  paper  talk"  to  my  American  friends, 
though  I  am  :],000  miles  from  them. 


M//  Dear  Friend  : — I  am 


Liverpool,  July  eYth,  1850, 
now  in  a   strange  place. 


The  country,  the   people,  and   the  places    are   strange. 
The  sky  is  strange— indeed  the  waters  before  my  win- 


;«?' 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


45 


(low  roll  with  strange  rapidity.  The  steamhoats  look 
strange,  black,  miserable  things — the  wretched  ferry- 
boats are  the  worst  things  of  all. 

The  recollection  of  Lhe  ocean  is  grateful  to  me,  for 
never  did  I  dream  that  I  should  ever  have  such  a  pleas- 
ant journey  over  the  "  big  waters"  as  I  did.  Fair 
winds,  clear  skies,  and  no  rolling  sea — calm  as  the  wa- 
ters of  our  dear  "  Hudson,"  that  beloved  river,  which 
winds  along  (as  Byron  said   of  such  scenery,) 

"  In  the  wild  power  of  mountain  majesty." 

The  Port  of  Liverpool.  From  my  window  I  can  see 
a  thousand  ships.  They  appear  like  forest  trees,  their 
masts  towering  between  me  and  the  great  city.  The 
tide,  rising  higher  here  than  in  America,  rolls  in  and  out 
rapidly  before  me,  and  the  diversity  of  ships  sweep  in  a 
mighty  phalanx,  on  each  side  of  the  river.  I  can  see  all 
kinds  of  boats,  from  a  yawl  to  a  steamship.  The  steam- 
boats run  here  on  these  waterr  nearly  as  often  as  our 
omnibuses  in  the  streets  of  Boston.  But  how  wretched 
they  are  I  no  cover  overhead  at  all.  The  rain  comes 
down  without  mercy,  and  the  rain  here  is  dirty  and 
smoky  enough. 

6> 


!l 


•k; 


KUKOI'KAX   OIlSKIiVA'I'IONH. 


The  port  irt  iuliuiiiilily  well  ciilciilalt'tl  to  accomiiiodiitf 
S(>voriil  tlioiisatid  HliipH  iiioic.  Tlif  Hans  of  all  nations 
ajipcar  lu-n-,  and  none  wave  iiiorc  proudly  than  "  the 
Bl(irn  and  stripes."  'riu-st<  Hash  iVoui  sea  to  soa,  and  roll 
on,  ovi-r  t'vcry  wave.  One  half  the  eonnuerce  is  inider 
the  thi;;  of  .Viiierica. 

We  bron',rht  the  news  of  the  death  of  tho  rresident 
of  the  United  States,  into  this  eonntry.  The  next  day 
all  the  Auierieau  ships  had  their  lla^s  half-mast,  and  tiic 
papers  from  all  the  prineipal  towns  of  the  kin<>doni  arc 
tilled  with  retrivts  at  his  departure,  lie  seems  to  have 
been  esteemed  very  '  trhly  in  this  eonntry — all  ereeds 
speak  well  of  him.  (ireat  anxiety  is  felt  us  to  what 
eonrse  Mr.  Fillmore  will  take  with  reference  to  the  ox- 
eitin<«-  tpjestions  of  the  day. 

T/ic  Dovks  of  Liir>-iHH>l.  Of  tlie  celebrity  of  these 
YOU  have  already  heard.  They  are  a  piece  of  master 
workmanshi[) — a  noble  monument  of  untiring'  industry. 
The  tide  brings  in  a  hundred  ships  inside,  and  when  it 
g-oes  out,  it  takes  with  it  as  many  more.  There,  within 
the  reach  of  the  streets  which  run  troni  the  town  into 
tho  river,  are  hid  secure  the  ships  which  liave  braved 
the  oceans  of  all  quarters  of  the  world.     Here,  now,  as 


I 


KUUOPKAN   OHSKRVATIONS. 


47 


if  woary  of  wanderiuf^  l)y  Hra,  sliunbcr  the  p^od-likc  in- 
strumenls  of  navi^^ulioii.  I  can  lii-ar  the  peculiar  cry  of 
llie  sailor,  now  while  I  write, 

T  I'elt  so  snuill  when  the  captain  told  us  that  we  were 
ahout  half-way  over  the  sea.  What  I  nothiiif»  around 
us  but  the  blue,  clear  sky,  and  the  ini<;hty  caverns  be- 
neath us  !  To  be  suspended  thus,  is  not  so  pleasant. 
]iut,  how  secure  did  I  feel  there,  when  I  knew  that 
(lod  was  near  I  His  arms  were  around  us.  We  shall 
praise  him. 

The  town  of  Liverpool  is  a  rusty-looking  place  at 
first ;  but  the  better  acquainted  you  are  with  the  place, 
the  better  you  like  it.  The  streets  are  mostly  narrow, 
com[)ared  with  ours  in  America.  Liverpool  appears  to 
be  almost  as  larj^e  as  New  York. 

The  town  police  is  a  well-rcf^ulated  arrangement. 
The  policemen  march  to  duty  just  as  the  soldiers  do. 
They  wear  black  clothes,  high  hats  and  glazed  at  the 
rim.  There  nuist  be  several  thousands  of  them,  for  they 
appear  to  be  in  every  place.  The  svnoke  of  the  town,  or 
in  fact  of  the  whole  country,  is  like  the  smoke  of  Pittsburg. 

I  have  just  commenced  with  the  //inglish,  in  receiv- 
ing their  hospitality,  having  already  been  in  the  country, 


48 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


to  the  mansions  of  these  Liverpool  merchants.  I  find 
everything  in  a  tasteful  order — the  parks,  gardens, 
hedges,  ponds  filled  with  fish,  &:c.,  are  all  in  array,  as 
it  were,  to  entice  the  very  angels  from  the  skies. 

My  cause  is  here  warndy  advocated  by  the  papers, 
and  I  hope  to  realize  the  whole  of  what  I  had  anticipa- 
ted from  these  noble  English  people.  I  meet  with  no- 
thing but  kindness.  I  expect  to  deliver  an  address  be- 
fore the  Mayor  and  merchants,  at  11  o'clock,  A.  M.,  on 
Monday,  and  lay  my  plan  before  the  people,  at  the 
Merchants'  Exchange  Rooms. 

The  Peace  Congress  does  not  meet  until  the  22d  of 
August,  and  I  shall  visit  Manchester  and  London  before 
then.  Afterwards  I  go  to  Glasgow  and  Edinburgh,  and 
devote  two  weeks  to  France.  It  is  my  present  purpose 
to  return  in  November. 

I  have  only  written  about  the  port,  docks,  town,  &c., 
without  much  about  the  people.  I  must  reserve  that 
for  another  time. 

My  dear  friend,  do  enjoij  America  while  I  am  away  for 
me  too,  will  you  ?  and  I  will  see  all  the  sights  in  Europe 
for  you,  in  exchange.     Farewell !  Yours  faithfully, 

[a.  COPWAY,  Ojibway  Nation. 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


49 


The  common  things  wliich  interest  and  arrest  one's 
attention  are  numerous — the  town  enveloped  in  smoke  ; 
the  docks  stretching  away  for  over  six  miles  ;  the  ferry- 
boats, smoky,  black  and  dirty — no  covers  to  them.  The 
rain  is  sufTered  to  come  dovi^n  without  any  conscience  on 
the  heads  of  old  and  young,  and  the  soot  falls  on  your 
linen,  or  on  your  face,  until  you  make  beautiful,  fine, 
delicate  streaks  across  your  cheeks  and  nose  in  wiping 
the  sweat  from  your  forehead. 

I  see  much  form  and  order  in  everything  which  con- 
cerns the  conduct  of  the  people.  Every  lamp-post  must 
have  a  guard,  as  if  it  were  an  object  of  great  interest 
and  importance,  and  every  corner  is  more  or  less  favored 
with  the  presence  of  a  policeman. 

None  of  the  well-informed  have  the  impudence  which 
shows  itself  in  asking  endless  questions.  All  the  impu- 
dence of  the  country  seems  concentrated  in  the  street- 
beggar,  who  is  the  very  personification  of  this  questiona- 
ble virtue.  These  scape-goats  from  Purgatory  have  for 
nearly  a  week  watched  the  door  of  the  Waterloo  Hotel. 
They  know  where  green  ones  resort,  and  there  they 
gather  together  like  silk-worms  on  a  mulberry.  How 
gracefully  they  doff  their  hats  I  with  what  mock  reve- 


60 


EUROPEAN   OUSERVATIONS. 


I*^f' 


I 
III 


rence  lliey  uncover  their  heads  I  They  bend  the  knee 
for  a  "  Penny,  please,  sir  I"  Having  received  one,  anoth- 
er comrade  is  sent  on  tlie  same  errand,  until  you  have 
given  pennies  to  a  company  of  a  dozen  beggars,  and  this 
only  sharpens  their  appetite.  To  get  rid  of  this  human- 
ity in  rags  I  gave  away  many  a  penny  when  I  landed, 
but  this  only  brought  more. 

The  Waterloo  House,  the  Adelphi,  and  other  large 
Hotels,  are  guarded  for  the  special  accommodation  of  the 
rich  by  enormous  charges.  Although  I  have  nothing  to 
say  in  favor  of  this,  I  can  assure  any  of  our  Americans 
travelling  this  way,  that  they  will  find  all  things  right 
at  the  Waterloo,  and  the  keeper,  Mr.  Lynn,  a  fine- 
hearted  gentleman. 

My  experience  has  taught  me  that  Hotel  servants  in 
this  country  are  constant  plagues.  I  am  resolved  not  to 
be  annoyed  by  them.  If  any  charges  for  servants  are  to 
be  made  I  mean  to  have  it  included  in  the  Bill — for 
when  you  call  for  your  bill  the  charge  is  made  out  for 
lodging  and  meals  only.  Then  come  the  servants  like  a 
regiment  of  starved  turkeys  clamoring  for  food.  First  the 
Porter,  with  an  air  of  dignity, 

"  Please  remember  the  Porter,  sir." 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


51 


How  much  ? 

"  2s.  6d.  sir."— (about  02^  cts.)  Paid. 

"  Please  renioinber  the  Chamber-maid,  sir,"  says 
another. 

How  much  ? 

"  I  get  2s.  Q>d.  sir."-  -Paid. 

"Please  remembc     ■  ;  Bootblack,  sir." 

How  much  ? 

"  2s.  sir."— Pau/. 

"  Please  remember  the  'Enand-boy^^  says  a  boy, 
touching  his  cap. 

How  much  ? 

"  2s.  sir."— Pate?. 

Here  comes  a  man  with  a  whip  in  his  hand,  and 
touches  his  cap  to  his  forehead. 

"  Please  pay  for  I lo looking  at  my  carnage .'" 

Job  is  said  to  have  had  a  greal  deal  of  patience,  but  sure 
I  am  he  never  M'as  in  England. 

Were  I  allowed  to  give  advice  to  these  Hotel  keepers, 
I  would  say,  "  When  you  make  out  your  bills,  pu*  in 
your  charge  for  Servants'  hire  and  all,  and  do  not  trouble 
us  Americans  with  such  intrusions,  for  our  time  is  pre- 
cious." 


CIIAPTEE  VI. 


THE   PEOPLE — TOWN" — COUNTRY. 


m 


On  Sabbath  last,  in  the  morning,  I  first  saw  Liverpool. 
I  have  since  visited  the  docks,  public  buildings  and  in- 
stitutions. One  week  has  nearly  elapsed,  and  I  am  an- 
nounced to  speak  twice  on  Sunday,  the  29th,  which  is 
to-morrow. 

Mr.  Richard  Rathbone  and  his  brother,  the  ex-mayor 
of  Liverpool,  have  been  unremitting  in  their  kind  atten- 
tions to  me,  I  shall  never  forget  the  beautiful  country 
residences  of  these  gentlemen.  The  wild  woods  of 
"  Woodcote"'  shall  ever  have  a  place  in  my  memory. 
There  I  have  just  been  entertained  in  company  with  the 
chief  magistrate  of  Liverpool,  E.  Rushton,  and  four  or 
five  counsellors-at-law.  The  lovely  pond  girded  with 
grass  and  shrubbery,  the  beautil'ully  shaded  walks,  the 
exquisite  flowers — how  shall  I  begin  to  describe  them  ? 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


53 


My  friend  Richard  Ralhbouc's  house  is  in  the  oentro  of 
this  lovely  Httle  kingdom.  On  Thursday  evening  I  stood 
amid  tlie  foliage  of  the  trees  and  saw  the  sun  sinking  in 
the  midst  of  gorgeous  clouds,  its  golden  rays  reflected  on 
the  sky  and  the  scenery  around  me,  and  then  I  realized 
the  appropriateness  of  a  description  that  had  before  been 
only  a  picture  in  my  imagination. 

"  IIow  soft  the  green  bank  sloping  down  from  the  hill 
To  the  spot  where  the  fountain  grew  suddenly  still  1 
How  cool  was  the  shadow  the  long  brandies  gave 
As  they  liung  frt)m  the  willow,  and  dipped  in  the  wave ! 
And  then  each  pale  lily,  that  slept  in  the  stream 
Rose  and  fell  with  a  wave,  as  if  stirred  by  a  dream." 


I  left  a  delightful  reality  for  a  remembrance  when  the 
carriage  drove  me  away  from  this  place.  May  the  sun- 
shine of  heaven  ever  rest  upon  it. 

Next  day,  I  must  go  and  visit  the  family  of  William 
Rathbone,  the  ex-mayor.  In  the  lovely  spot  where  I 
shall  see  them,  the  flowers  and  shrubbery  of  all  lands  are 
growing.  "  Green  Bank" — how  appropriate  the  appella- 
tion !  Here  we  must  feast  again,  I  suppose  :  the  very 
thoughts  of  such  a  groaning  board  makes  me  groan  in- 
wardly, and  the  recollection  of  such  fearful  inroads  upon 


64 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


m 


the  dainties  of  the  table  gives  me  a  leaning  in  that  di- 
rection. 

A  Reverend  gentleman  dined  with  us,  and  my  fondest 
anticipations  as  to  the  dinner  were  fully  realized.  After 
enjoying  a  walk  about  the  grounds  I  had  reluctantly  to 
leave,  for  other  engagements.  Mr.  E-athbone  is  truly  one 
of  nature's  noblemen. 

The  Liverpool  Standard,  on  Thursday  morning,  an- 
nounced our  presence  and  arrival,  as  follows  : 

"An  Indian  Chief.— By  the  Niagara  steam-ship,  an 
Indian  chief  of  the  Ojibway  nation,  named  Kah-ge-ga- 
gah-bowkh,  arrived  in  this  town.     He  is  on  his  way  to 
the  Peace  Congress,  at  Frankfort,  and  will  only  make  a 
short  stay  in  Liverpool.     His  adopted  name  is  George 
Copway.     We  were  yesterday  introduced  to  him,  and 
found  him  a  very  intelligent  man.     His  complexion  is  of 
course  rather  dark,  and  his  hair  long  and  biack,  and  he 
is  a  tall,  well-proportioned,  and  handsome  man,  with  the 
manners   and   graceful  dignity  of  a  perfect  gentleman. 
We  hail  his  presence  amongst  us  as  a  token  of  spreading 
intelligence  among  the  North  American  Indians.     We 
give  in  another  column  a  well- written  poem  composed  for 
Mr.  Copway  and  recited  by  him  on  board  the  Niagara. 


QEORGE    COPWAV 
(ivAi]  c.E  (lA  (5An  nrnvn  i 


EUKOPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


55 


We  may  also  mention  that  we  had  placed  in  our  hands 
two  volumes  from  the  pen  of  our  North  American  friend, 
one  of  his  own  life,  entitled,  '  History  of  a  Child  of  the 
Forest,  and  of  his  Nation,'  and  the  other  a  poetic  sketch 
of  'the  bravery  and  prowess  of  the   Ojibway  nation.' 
Both  works  proclaim  their  author  to  be  a  man  of  close 
observation,  of  original  thought,  and  of  sound  judgment." 
I  have  learned  that  the  Peace   Congress  does  not  sit 
until  the  22d,  23d,  and  24th,  of  next  month  ;  and  now  I 
shall  have  a  little  time  to  visit  the  different  towns.     I 
will  have  one  invariable  set  of  rules  to  observe  wherever 
I  shall  be  durin-  my  stay  in  this  country— and  it  is  this. 
I  will  uphold  my  race— I  will  endeavor  never  to  say 
nor  do  anything  which  will  prejudice  the  mind  of  the 
British  public  against  my  people— In  this  land  of  refine- 
ment I  will  be  an  Indian— I  will  treat  everybody  in  a 
manner  that  becomes  a  gentleman— I  will  patiently  an- 
swer all  questions  that  may  be  asked  me— I  will  study  to 
please  the  people,  and  lay  my  own  feelings  to  one  side. 

Since  I  have  to  be  in  the  country  so  long  before  going 
to  the  Peace  Congress,  I  will  deliver  some  lectures  and 
addresses  before  the  people,  and  endeavor  if  possible  to 
interest  them  in  reference  to  the  present  condition  and 


56 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


prospects  of  the  Indian  races  in  America,  and  to  give  them 
some  idea  of  what  we  have  been  doing  for  the  civilization 
of  the  Red  man. 

Sabbath  day.  I  had  to  speak  for  the  Rev.  Mr.  Hall,  in 
Birkenhead — A  very  pleasant  time — the  people  are  easily 
affected — they  appear  to  enjoy  themselves.  I  spoke  to 
another  audience  this  afternoon  ;  and  I  must  soon  speak 
to  another.  I  see  people  flocking  to  the  house  ....  Yes 
— it  was  crowded.  A  very  good  building,  and  seats  cir- 
cular— I  hope  some  good  is  done. 

One  thing  I  have  noticed  with  regret  in  this  country  ; 
and  that  is,  the  agitation  of  the  Wesleyans.     There  seems 
to  be  a  division  on  the  subject  of  government  and  disci- 
pline of  this  body.     Many  have  asked  me  which  side  of  tho 
agitation  I  belong  to.     My  answer  has  been,  /  knoio  no 
side.      The   church  government   of  the    Methodists   in 
England  and  America  has  been  rather  too  coercive.     Too 
much  power  is  lodged  in  the  hands  of  the  Ministers,  and 
here  it  has  resulted  in  a  rupture  all  over  the  country. 
The  papers  are  full  of  it ;  and  the  organs  of  the  two  sec- 
tions show  that  there  is  a  great  deal  of  bitterness  of  feel- 
ing on  both  sides.     They  run  one  another  down,  while 
each  one  praises  itself     The  struggle  has  commenced,  and 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


67 


no  one  can  tell  when  nor  where  the  controversy  will  end. 
The  ministers  have  no  desire  of  losing  their  power  by  ac- 
ceding to  the  wishes  of  the  minority.  The  others  are 
persevering  in  their  demands  for  a  reformation,  somewhere, 
for  the  good  of  the  whole— and  English-like,  one  is  just  as 
obstinate  as  the  other. 

One  thing  which  seems  to  be  a  source  of  misunder- 
standing with  them,  is  this— the  trjdng  of  members  by 
the  Rules  for  the  temporal  regulation  of  the  Church,  and 
condemning  them  by  these  rules,  and  thus  reading  them 
out  of  the  churches,  which  is  said  to  be  making  the  rules 
for  the  better  temporal  government  of  a  church,  para- 
mount to  the  laivs  of  God.  Whether  this  is  the  case  I 
caniiot  say,  but  it  is  the  impression  I  receive  from  all  that 
I  have  heard  said  on  the  subject. 

I  was  to  have  given  a  lecture  at  the  Commercial  Sales' 
Room,  but  it  was  attended  by  gentlemen  and  no  ladies, 
or  at  most  only  two  or  three.  The  lecture  was  then 
postponed,  and  the  meeting  was  appointed  at  the  Me- 
chanics' Institute,  where  I  am  to  deliver  my  next  lecture. 
Though  I  am  constantly  busy,  time  slips  by  me  so 
rapidly  that  I  can  accomplish  but  little — and  now  for  the 

meeting.     The  house  was  crammed,  and  the  people  well 

3* 


I 


58 


EUKOPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


Ui 


♦-t 


packed— a  good  room  (br  speaking  in  it  is  too.  On  Thurs- 
day morning,  among  the  papers  that  noticed  my  lecture 
was  the  Mercury.     I  shall  give  the  entire  report. 

NORTH   AMERICAN   INDIANS. 

Last  evening  a  meeting  was  held  in  the  Mechanics' 
Institution,  to  hear  the  Rev.  George  Copway,  a  chief  of 
the  Ojibway  Indians,  explain  his  scheme  for  concentra- 
ting the  Indians  of  North  America  on  the  northwest 
frontier  of  the  United  States.  There  was  a  very  large 
attendance. 

Mr.  Wm.  EATimoNE  occupied  the  chair,  and  after  a 
few  preliminary  remarks,  introduced  Mr.  Copway  to  the 
meeting. 

The  Rev.  Mr.  Copway  then  came  forward,  and  was 
enthusiastically  received  by   the  meeting.     After  some 
introductory  remarks,  he  proceeded  to  state  what  were 
the  causes  which  caused  the  Indians    to    decrease,   and 
why  they  had  not  improved.     There  had  been  an  idea 
amongst  the  pale  faces  that  the  Indians  were  a  doomed 
race  :  there  seemed  to  be  something  over  their  heads,  and 
therefore  they  would  not  lift  their  hands  to  extricate  the 
Indians.     One  ot  the  reasons  which  caused  a  decrease  in 


EUBOPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


59 


the  numher  of  Indians  was  the  diacases  which  had  been 
introduced  into,  their,  country  by  JEuropeans,  such  as 
small-pox,  and  other  diseases,  which  their  simple  medi- 
cines  and  limited  knowledge  were  unable  to  cure  ;  and 
not  only  had  their  number  been  diminished  by  disease, 
but  also  by  wars  amongst  themselves,  and  since  European 
arms  had  been  introduced  amongst  them  the  mortality  in 
their  affrays  had  been  greatly  augmented.  The  wars 
which  had  taken  place  between  the  European  nations  in 
America  had  also  thinned  the  number  of  Indians.  The 
fourta  cause  of  their  diminution  was  the  use  of  ardent 
spirits,  one  of  the  greatest  curses  which  had  been  intro- 
duced into  their  country  by  the  white  man. — (Applause.) 
He  instanced  two  or  three  cases  in  which  the  most  de- 
structive results  had  been  caused  to  the  Indians  by  the 
free  use  of  ardent  spirits,  and  yet  the  white  man  philo- 
sophically said  this  was  all  Providence.  He  sometimes 
trembled  for  the  people  of  the  United  States,  though  he 
hoped  never  to  have  the  same  feeling  as  when  he  was 
on  the  war  trail.  The  Indians  occupied  no  half-way 
ground.  When  they  professed  to  be  Christians  they 
would  be  found  to  be  so.— (Applause.)  He  now  came  to 
the  reasons  why  the  Indians  had   not  improved.     The 


60 


EUUOrEAN   OJJSEIJVATIONS. 


ii^.t 


ll 


I 


reasons  why  they  had  not  improved  wore  that  no  sooner 
had  they  a  school  established,  and  they  befran  to  culti- 
vate the  ground,  than  they  were  forced  to  give  up  their 
land  and  go  further  west  ;  and  sometimes  when  they  re- 
fused to  give  up  their  land  the  most  nefarious  means 
were  resorted  to  to  compel   them  to  do  so.     The  first 
great  reason,  therefore,  why  they  had  not  improved  was 
that  they  were  not  allowed  to  remain  on  their  land  lon<r 
enough.     The  next  reason  why  the  Indian  did  not  im- 
prove, was  that  the  education  offered  to  him  was  not 
suitable  to  his  habits.     They  should  adapt  their  institu- 
tions in  accordance  to  the  feelings  of  the  Indians.     The 
Indian  did  not  wish  to  be  driven  into  anything  by  the 
rod  :  his  common  sense  would  lead  him,  without  being 
driven,  or  being  made  the  machine ;  and  this  was  one 
reason  why  the  Indian  had  not  fallen  in  love  with  edu- 
cation. The  next  reason  why  the  Indian  did  not  improve 
was,  that  the  manner  of  introducing  education  to  him 
was  very  peculiar.     The  Missionary  endeavored  to  trans- 
late English  works  into  the  Indian  language,  instead  of 
teaching  the  Indian  youth  the  English  language,  and  thus 
introduce  them  to  the  broad  sea  of  intelligence.     He  had 
been  overruled  on  this  subject  ten  years  ago ;  but  they 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


61 


were  then  beginning  to  see  the  value  of  his  suggestion. 
The  next  reason  why  the  Indian  did  not  improve  was, 
that  the  Missionaries  did  not  take  the  wisest  course  for 
introducing  Christianity,     When  they  sent  Missionaries 
amongst  tlie  Indians,  they  should  teach  them  to  love  one 
another  before  they  went  amongst  them;     If  they  did 
this  they  would  save  a  great  deal  of  trouble  ;  but  he 
implored  of  them  to  send  none  but  men  who  followed 
the  precepts  of  the  Saviour,  not  only  by  preaching,  but 
by    practising   them    from    their    hearts. — (Applause.) 
Above  all,  Missionaries  should  be   impressed  with  the 
glorious  and  noble  principles  of  Christianity,  and  do  not 
send  narrow-hearted  bigots. — (Applause.)     He  then  pro- 
ceeded to  state  his  plan  for  the  concentration  of  the  In- 
dians, which  was  that  the  Indians  of  the  northwest,  con- 
sisting of  about  one  hundred  thousand  souls,  should  be 
granted  forever  about  150  square  miles  of  territory,  be- 
tween the  falls  of  St.  Anthony  and  the  West  of  Winoso- 
tah,  and  by  giving  the  Indians  a  permanent  settlement 
in  this  land,  induce  them  to  become  farmers,  and  learn 
the  arts  of  peace  and  civilization.     If  this  was  not  done 
in  the  course  of  foHy  years  there  would  not  be  a  buffalo 
left  on  this  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  ;  and  then,  he 


62 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


■ 


asked,  on  what  would  the  Indians  live  ?  If  they  touched 
a  herd  of  cattle  belonging  to  the  American  settlers,  the 
war-whoop  would  be  raised  against  the  Indians,  and  they 
would  bo  exterminated.  It  was  to  prevent  this  that  he 
had  brought  forward  this  scheme.  The  Indian  would 
then  have  a  home,  where  he  could  till  his  land  and  im- 
part instruction  to  his  offspring;  fearing  no  removal. 
When  he  had  the  fee  simple  of  this  land  he  would  feel 

himself  treated  as  a  man,  and  he  would  act  as  a  man. 

(Applause.)     The    Indian  would  then  be  no  longer  a 
trouble.  It  might  havebeen  thought  presumptuous  in  him 
to  start  such  a  scheme,  but  when  he  saw  his  brethren 
being  destroyed  by  inches,  he  could  not  hesitate  to  ofl'er 
himself  as  a  sacrifice  for  his  brethren  ;  and  he  had  como 
to  England,  not  to  get  an  expression  of  feeling  all  over 
the  country,  or  for  the  purpose  of  raising  their  noble  pa- 
triotism to  urge  on  the    Government  of  America;    he 
would  rather  not  receive  a  gift  from  any  one  having  a 
feeling  of  this   sort.— (Hear.)      He  wanted  the  people 
to  know  the  real  position  of  the  Indian,  and  he  wanted 
the  parents  of  eveiy  child  of  the  Great  Spirit  to  whisper 
to  them    to  pray  for  the  poor  Indian,  that  God    might 
shower  his  mercies  on  him,  and  that,  when  the  poor  In- 


I 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


63 


dian  warrior  died,  he  might  see  his  children  mounting 
their  way  up  the  high  hill  of  noble  greatness,  and  that 
when  he   died  he    might  wake  in    a   world  of  endless 
bliss  in  the  skies.       In  prosecuting   this  matter   it   re- 
quired means,  and  it  was  mainly  for  this  purpose  that 
he  wished  to  get  the  people  interested  ;  and  if  he  could 
get,    say  £2,500,  which  he  expected  to  do  during  the 
coming  Congress,  in  the  month  of  December,  he  would 
return  to  Washington  again,  and  he  intended  to  send 
out  three  of  his  brethren  to  deliver  addresses  through- 
out the  country,   and  at  the  same  time  to  have  blank 
petitions  circulated,  and  at  a  certain  given  time,  in  the 
month  of  January  or    February,  he    wanted   to  touch 
the  wires  which  vibrated  from  one  end  of  the  country  to 
the  other,  he  wanted  to  besiege  the  white  house  of  the 
Government  of  the  United  States,  and  knock  at  the  door 
of  the  American  Government,  that  justice  might  be  done 
to  the  Indian  by  giving  him  a  home  from  which  ho  shall 
never  be  removed  again.— (Applause.)     After  referring 
to   the  kindness    which    he    had    experienced    at    the 
hands   of  Mr.    Richard    Rathbone,    and  expressing  the 
Ipieasure  which  he  felt  at  seeing  so  large  a  meeting  be- 
fore him,  the  reverend  gentleman  gave  a  very  graphic 


lai 


64 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


and  poetical  description  of  an  aged  Indian,  who,  harassed 
with  care,  addressed  his  children  to  the  following  effect  : 
— There  is  no  rest  in  this  country  ;  the  white  man  is 
come,  and  he  is  powerAil.  There  is  only  one  place  be- 
yond the  setting  sun.  You  will  soon  see  me  die.  The 
lecturer  then  repeated  the  following  lines  : — 

I  will  go  to  my  tent  and  lie  down  in  despair ; 

I  will  jiaint  me  with  black,  and  will  sever  my  hair ; 

I  will  go  to  the  shore  vhere  tlie  hurricane  blows, 

Ami  reveal  to  the  God  of  the  tempest  my  woes  ; 

I  will  for  a  season  on  bitterness  feed, 

For  my  kindred  are  gone  to  the  mounds  of  the  dead  : 

They  died  not  by  hunger,  nor  wasting  decay, 

The  steel  of  the  white  man  hath  swept  them  away. 

Mr.  Copway  concluded  by  expressing  his  gratitude  for  the 
kindness  manifested  by  the  Liverpool  public,  adding  that 
whatever  donations  any  persons  might  think  proper  to 
present,  in  support  of  the  cause,  they  would  be  thankfully 
received.  A  friend,  in  this  town,  told  Mr.  Copway  that 
he  would  give  £25  towards  the  object,  and  wished  it 
every  prosperity.  The  reverend  lecturer  was  listened 
to  with  breathless  attention,  and  resumed  his  seat  amid 
the  most  deafening  a])plause. 

The  Chairman  said,  that  after  the  very  excellent  ad- 
dress they   had   heard,  there    must  be   sliowu  souietiiiiior 


I 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


65 


more  substantial  than  clapping  and  cheering.  He  also 
stated  that  it  should  be  understood  that  with  the  general 
treatment  of  the  Americans  towards  the  Indians  they  had 
nothing  to  do.  After  a  powerful  appeal,  from  the  chair- 
man, urging  individuals  to  come  forward  and  contribute 
their  mite  owards  so  philanthropic  an  object,  many  per- 
sons responded  to  the  call,  and  their  names  were  entered 
onthe  p"bscription  list. 


•  -  -*~rtwrt»«  ««<«•>»»««■ 


1 1 


CHAPTER  VII. 

HISTORICAL  NOTICES   OF   LIVERPOOL. 

[These  notices  are  gathered  from  a  small  volume-Black's  Rail- 
way  Map.] 

Liverpool,  the  second  city  in  the  kingdom  of  Great 
Britain,  is  situated  on  the  right  side  of  the  Mersey.     A 
castle  is  said  to  have  been  built  here  by  Roger  of  Poic- 
tiers,  which   was   demolished    in    1659.      St.    Georges' 
Church  now  stands  on  the  site.     During  the  civil  wirs, 
Liverpool  held  out  against  Prince  Rupert  for  a  month,' 
but  at  last  it  Avas  taken,  and  many  of  the  garrison  and 
the  inhabitants  were  put  to  the  sM-ord.     The  town  was 
very  soon  after  retaken  by  Colonel  Birch,  and  continued 
to  remain  true  to  the  popular  cause. 

Liverpool  was  merely  a  chapelry  attached  to  the  parish 
of  Walton,  till  the  reign  of  William  III.,  and  in  1650 
there  were  only  fifteen  ships  belonging  to  the  port. 


EUllOPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


67 


It  was  deeply  engaged  in  the  African  slave-trade  ;  and 
in  1764,  more  than  half  this  trade  was  carried  on  by  the 
merchants  of  Liverpool. 

Since  the  great  extension  of  the  Cotton  Manufacture, 
it  has  become  the  port  where  the  great  bulk  of  the  raw 
material  is  received,  and  whence  the  exports  of  manufac- 
tured goods  are  chiefly  made  to  all  parts  of  the  world. 
It  also  enjoys  a  very  large  proportion  of  the  trade  between 
England  and  Ireland,  especially  since  the  employment  of 
steam-vessels  for  the  conveyance  of  merchandise. 

Liverpool  is  supposed  to  possess  one-twelfth  part  of  the 
shipping  of  Great  Britain  ;  one-fourth  part  of  the  foreign 
trade  ;  one-sixth  part  of  the  general  commerce  ;  and  one 
half  as  much  trade  as  the  port  of  London.  The  custom 
dues  are  between  four  and  five  millions  sterling;  the 
Cotton  imported  reaching  a  million  and  a  half  of  bags. 
The  imports  are  about  twenty  milions  m  value,  the  ex- 
ports exceeding  that  sum  by  a  fourth,  and  it  is  calculated 
that  1000  tons  of  goods  pass  daily  between  Liverpool  and 
Manchester.  About  two  fifths  of  the  tonnage  inwards 
and  outwards  are  engaged  in  the  trade  with  the  United 
States.  Considerable  trafTic  is  also  carried  on  v/:h  the 
West   India  Islands,    Brazil,    and  other  parts  of  South 


68 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


America,  and  the  East  Indies.     Its  intercourse  with  Ire- 
land is  about  equal  in  amount  with  that  kept  up  with 
every  port  in  Great  Britain.     The  inland  trade  of  Liver- 
pool  is  much  assisted  by  means  of  canals  and  railways, 
and  it  has  benefited  more  than  any  port  in  Great  Britain 
(London  excepted)  from  the  application  of  steam  power 
to  navigation.     The  docks  are  constructed  on  the  most 
stupendous  scale.     They  consist  of  Avet,  dry,  and  graving 
docks,   and    a^e   connected  with  wide  and  commodious 
quays,  and  immense  warehouses.     The  wet  docks  occupy 
a  water  superficies  of  90  acres,  3384  yards,  and  the  quays 
measure  7  miles  156  yards  in  length. 

Until  about  fifty  years   ago,  the  streets  of  Liverpool 
were  narrow  and  inconvenient,  and  the  buildings  devoid 
of    architectural    beauty,   but   successive    improvements 
have  given  to  the  town  an  elegance  not  to  be  met  with 
in  any  other  commercial  port  in  the  kingdom.     The  most 
important  public  buildings  are,  the  town  hall,  the  ex- 
change building,  and  the  custom  house.     The  town  hall 
is  a  handsome  Palladian  building,  surmounted  by  a  dome, 
which  is  crowned  by  a  statue  of  Britannia.     It  contains 
a  rmmber  of  portraits,  and  a  statue  of  Roscoe,  by  Chantry, 
and  on  the  landing  of  the  staircase  there  is  a  statue  of 


^  -^r 


EUROPEAN  OBSEEVATIONS. 


69 


Canning,  by  the  same  artist.  The  interior  of  the  town 
hall,  besides  the  rooms  on  the  basement  story,  contains  a 
saloon,  two  drawing  rooms,  two  ball  rooms,  a  banqueting 
room,  and  a  refectory,  the  whole  elegantly  fitted  up. 

The  Exchange  buildings  form  three  sides  of  a  square, 
in  the  centre  of  which  is  a  group  of  statuary,  in  memory 
of  Nelson,  executed  by  Westmacott  in  1813.  The  new 
custom  house,  by  far  the  finest  building  in  Liverpool, 
both  in  magnitude  and  architectural  execution,  contains 
also  the  post  office,  the  excise  office,  the  stamp  office,  the 
dock  treasurer's  and  secretary's  offices,  the  board  room 
and  offices  of  the  dock  committee. 

At  the  junction  of  London  Road  and  Pembroke  Place, 
there  is  an  equestrian  statue  of  George  IIL,  by  West- 
macott. 

St.  James'  Cemetery  was  once  a  quay  of  red  stone,  and 
consists  principally  of  catacombs.  On  the  summit  of  the 
rock,  near  the  entrance,  is  a  beautiful  chapel,  containing 
some  good  sculpture.  Here  the  late  Mr.  Huskisson  was 
interred,  and  a  monument  to  his  memory  has  been  placed 
over  the  spot,  with  a  statue  of  fine  white  marble,  habited 
in.  a  toga, 

Liverpool  contains  thirty-two  places  of  worship  con- 


70 


EUROPEAN   OESERVATIONS. 


nected  with  the  Establishment,  and  fifty-nine  belonging 
to  the  Dissent,:  rs  of  various  denominations.     There  are 
in  Liverpool,  75  Sunday  Schools,  with  10,000  scholars; 
43  evening  Schools,  with  548  scholars  ;  648  day  Schools, 
with  28,916  scholars;  there  are  13  Medical  charities,  12 
provident,  and  23  religious.     There  are  15  literary  insti- 
tutions, 12  places  of  public  amusement,  and  10  prisons. 
Among  the  literary  institutions  may  be  mentioned  the 
Royal  Institution,  formed  in  1814  by  Mr.  Roscoe— the 
Literary  and  Scientific,  and  Commercial   Institution  set 
on   foot   in    1835— the    Mechanic's   Institution,    opened 
m    1837 — the   Liverpool  Institution  of  Fine   Arts— the 
Atheneum— the  Lyceum— the  Collegiate  Institution,  &c. 
The  markets  of  Liverpool  are  very  remarkable  struc- 
tures;    that  of  St.  John  occupies  nearly  two  acres  of 
ground,   the  whole   under   one   roof,  supported   by  116 
pillars. 

The  Zoological  Gardens  comprise  ten  acres  of  ground, 
and  are  laid  out  with  a  great  degree  of  taste. 

The  manufactures  of  Liverpool  are  not  important. 
There  are  several  sugar  refineries,  some  small  foundries, 
a  good  deal  of  ship  building  in  wood  and  iron,  a  man- 


^^T 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


71 


ufar-tory   of  steam  engines,    anchors,  chain  cables,  and 
similar  articles  naturally  demanded  iu  a  large  port. 

The  value  of  the  corporation  estates  is  estimated  at 
three  millions  of  money,  and  the  annual  income  derived 
from  rent  and  dock  dues  has  increased  to  upwards  of 
£320,000.  A  great  proportion  of  this  income  has  been 
devoted  to  the  improvement  of  the  town,  including  the 
building  of  churches  and  other  public  edifices.  The  sura 
expended  in  these  objects  and  in  widening  the  streets  be- 
tween 178G  and  1838  amounts  to  £608,300. 

The  site  of  Liverpool  is  low  and  unhealthy.  Accord- 
ing to  the  Registrar-General's  returns  of  births  and 
deaths,  the  deaths  and  marriages  are  double,  while  the 
births  are  little  more  than  half  the  numbers  of  the 
averages  of  all  England. 

la  1700  the  population  of  Liverpool  was  4240.  In 
1841  it  was  223,003.  It  returns  two  members  to  Parli- 
ament. 

The  country  around  Liverpool  abounds  in  every  direc- 
tion with  fine  residences.  Of  these  the  most  important 
are,  Knowsley  Hall  (Earl  of  Derby);  Croxteth  Park 
(Earl  of  Sefton) ;  Ince  Blandell,  the  seat  of  the  Blandell 
family  ;  Childwall  Abbey  (Marquis  of  Salisbury) ;  Speke 


72 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


Hall  (Mr.  Watt) ;  Hall  Hall  (Mr.   Blackbune) ;   Wool- 
tou  Hall,  &c. 

At  Everton  is  the  cottage  where  Prince  Rupert  estab- 
lished his  head-quarters  when  he  besieged  the  town  in 
1G44. 

On  the  morning  of  July  31st,  Mr.  Pennell  took  me  to 
the  Mayor,  and  Sir  Elkanor  Etma.ta.fre. 

Manchester,  as  its  name  shows  (Man-castra)  was  a 
Roman  station,  and  is  supposed  to  have  taken  its  rise  in 
the  reign  of  Titus.  Under  the  Saxons  it  became  the 
abode  of  a  Thane.  After  the  Norman  Conquest,  Wil- 
liam gave  the  place  to  William  of  Poictou.  The  ba- 
rony descended  to  the  Grelleys,  and  the  De  la  Warres, 
and  at  length  the  Manorial  rights  became  vested  in  the 
'  family  of  Mosley.  In  the  civil  wars,  Manchester  ranged 
itself  on  the  side  of  Parliament,  and  sustained  a  siege 
conducted  by  Lord  Strau-e,  afterwards  Earl  of  Derby. 

Manchester  was  distinguished  for  its  manufactures  so 
early  as  the  times  of  Edward  VIH.  and  Edward  VI. 
At  "ist  the  w^oollen  was  the  only  branch  of  trade  ;  but 
since  the  middle  of  the  last  century,  the  cotton  business 
has  taken  the  lead,  and  Manchester  has  now  become  the 
centre  of  that  manufacture.     Of  late  the  spinning  and 


i!f 


EUROrEAX   OBSEHVATIONS. 


73 


weaving  of  silk  have  been  introduced,  and  the  printing 
and  dyeing  of  silk  are  also  extensively  carried  on  in  this 
town. 

The  manufacture  of  macliinery  has  risen  to  great  im- 
portance  and  perfection  in  Manchester,    and  it  has  also 
manufactures  of  linen,  small- wares,  hats,  umbrellas,  &c. 
Its   commerce  is  greatly  aided    by   its   communications 
with  almost  every  part  of  England,  by  means  of  rail- 
ways    and   canals.       The   district   in   which   the   town 
stands  contains  some  of  the  best  coal  strata  in  England ; 
a  circumstance  to    which    the   place  is  indebted  in  no 
small    degree  for  its  prosperity.     One  of  the  most  inter- 
esting  buildings  in  Manchester  is  the  Collegiate  Church, 
a  noble  Gothic  building,  containing  several  chapels  and 
chantries,  a  richly  ornamented  choir,  a  number  of  mon- 
uments. &c.     It  was  built  in  1422.     The  reputed  foun- 
der was  Thomas  Lord  De  la  Warre.  but  several  other 
persons  assisted  in  building  it.     Considerable  additions 
were  made  in  the  sixteenth  century,  and  many  altera- 
tions and  additions  are  of  recent  origin. 

Of  the  numerous  chapels,  all  but  one  are  private 
property.  The  chapel  of  the  Derby  family  is  that 
which  possesses  the  greatest  share  of  historic  interest. 

4 


74 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


St.  Mary's  chapel  contains  several  interesting  monuments 
of  the  family  of  the  Chathams  ;  and  the  Traflbrd  chapel, 
in  addition  to  the  memorials  of  the   ancient  family  from 
which  it  takes  its  name,  possesses  a  very  handsome  mon- 
ument to  the  memory  of  Dauntsey  Hulme,  Esq.,  a  dis- 
tinguished   philanthropist.       There   are   a   considerable 
number    of   other    churches   in   Manchester,    and    the 
church-building  society  has  been  formed  to  promote  ad- 
ditional church  accommodations.     The  Dissenters  have 
also  numerous  places  of  worship,   and  Manchester   has 
been  long  distinguished  as  possessing  a  greater  dissenting 
population  than  any  other  town  in  the  kingdom. 

The  ecclesiastical  government  of  Manchester  was  for- 
merly vested  in  the  warden  and  four  fellows  of  the  Col- 
legiate Church,  subsequently  elevated  to  the  rank  of  a 
cathedral. 

The  first  bishop  was  consecrated  in  1847.  The  free 
grammar  school  of  Manchester  was  founded  in  the  early 
part  of  the  fifteenth  century  by  Hugh  Oldham,  Bishop 
of  Exeter,  and  is  very  richly  endowed,  but  is  far  from 
efl:ecting  the  good  which  its  splendid  resources  might  pro- 
duce. 

Chetham's   Hospital,    or   the  College,  was   originp.lly 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


75 


founded  by  the  De  la  Warres  in  the  reign  of  Henry  VI. 
After    the   dissolution,   it    became  the  property    of  the 
Derby  family,  and  was  purchased  from  the  celebrated 
Countess   of  Derby,    in   compliance   with   the   will   of 
Humphry  Chc-tham,   an  eminent  merchant,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  forming  a  blue-coat  hospital  and  library.     This 
institution   provides   for   the    education  and  support  of 
eighty   poor   children.       The   library   consists   of  about 
25,000  volumes,  and  there  is  an  annual  provision  for  its 
augmentation.     The  inhabitants  of  the  town  are  allowed 
free  access  to  it  under  certain  regulations.     The  educa- 
tional institutions   in  Manchester    have   been    defective 
both  in  number  and  quality,  but  great  exertions  are  now 
making  to  extend  the  benefits  of  instruction  to  all  classes 
of  the  community. 

There  are  two  Mechanics'  Institutions  in  the  town ; 
several  Lyceums  ;  an  Institution  called  the  AthenEeum, 
a  Literary  and  Philosophical  Society,  numerous  charita- 
ble institutions,  &c.  The  other  public  buildings  worthy 
of  notice  are,  the  Exchange,  the  Infirmary,  the  Society 
of  Arts  or  Royal  Institution,  the  Town-Hall,  the  two 
Theatres,  the  new  Museum  of  Natural  History,  the  New 
Bailey  Pnson,  Manchester  Commercial  Rooms,  &c.,  &c. 


Ill 

hi 

ht'. 

hi 


76 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


A  Botanic  Garden  was  formed  here  in  1830.  There  are 
five  railways  diverging  from  Manchester,  which  furnish 
the  town  with  the  greatest  facilities  fbr  extending  its 
trade,  viz.  Liverpool,  Leeds,  Bolton  and  Bury,  Birming- 
ham and  Sheffield  Railways.  The  immense  mills, 
workshops  and  foundries  well  deserve  a  visit  from  the 
tourist.  Manchester  returns  two  members  of  Parlia- 
ment,    Its  population  is  163,856. 


CHAPTEE  VIII. 


COMMENCEMENT  OF   TRAVEL. 

This  morning  I  find  good  Lessons  from  the  followino-. 
which  will  be  useful  alike  to  all  travellers  as  it  will  be 
to  me.     And  here  it  is  from  Mr.  Black's  Railway  Guide. 

He  says, — 

"  Pack  up  your  luggage  in  such  order  that  you  can 
readily  carry  with  you  the  small  matters  you  may  want 
on  your  journey,  or  immediately  on  your  arrival ;  let  the 
rest  be  put  in  such  trunks,  cases,  boxes,  or  other  pack- 
ages as  will  either  effectually  protect  it,  or  show  at  first 
sight  that  it  must  be  handled  carefully  ;  remembering 
that,  at  railway  stations,  a  great  deal  of  business  must 
be  done  in  a  little  time,  and  therefore  luggage,  which 
seems  able  to  bear  it,  sometimes  gets  rough  usage. 


78 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIOXS. 


P 


Let  your  name  and  destination  appear  legibly  on  your 
luggage  ;  and  if  you  wish  to  be  safe  against  all  chances 
of  loss,  put  your  name  and  address  inside  also  of  each 
package.     Picture  to  yourself  your  trunk  lying  on  the 
road,  left  in  the  corner  of  an  office,  or  sent  "out  to  a 
wrong  direction,  and  imagine  what  you  would  then  wish 
should  be  on  or  in  it,   that  it  might  be  correctly  and 
speedily  sent  to  you.     What  you  would  then  wish  you 
had  done,  do  before  you  start.     Let  the  label  be  of  a 
strong  material,  and  firmly  attached  to  the  package. 

Be  at  the  station  some  minutes  before  the  time ;  if 
you  do  not  resolve  to  be  so,  expect  to  see  the  train  on  its 
way  without  you. 

Get  your  ticket  (by  paying  your  fare),  and  be  careful 
to  understand  exactly  how  far  that  ticket  frees  you.  On 
some  railways  you  keep  that  ticket  to  the  end  of  your 
journey;  on  others  you  are  called  on  Ibr  it  at  startmg. 
In  either  case  be  ready  with  it,  remembering  that,  if  you 
cannot  produce  it,  you  may  be  called  upon  to  pay  your 
fare  again. 

See  where  your  luggage  is  placed  on  the  carriage,  and 
prefer  that  it  should  be  on  that  in  which  you  are  to  be 
seated,  if  practicable  ;  see  also  that  the  company's  ticket 


EUROPEAX   OBSERVATIONS. 


79 


I 


or  luggage  number  be  affixed  to  each  package,  or  you 
may  be  called  on  to  pay  the  carriage  of  it. 

Expect  to  pay  for  the  carriage  of  all  your  luggage 
above  56  lbs.  weight.  -^ 

Take  the  best  care  you  can  to  prevent  the  necessity  of 
your  leaving  the  carriage  before  you  reach  the  refresh- 
ment station  at  the  end  of  your  journey. 

Take  your  seats  as  soon  as  you  have  made  all  needful 
arrangements;  you  may  have  with  you  a  carpet-bag, 
hat-box,  or  other  luggage,  if  it  be  not  so  bulky  as  to  an- 
noy your  fellow-passengers. 

Do  not  open  the  carriage  doors  yourself;  and  do  not  at 
any  station,  except  those  where  refreshments  are  provi- 
ded, attempt  to  leave  the  carriage  for  any  reason  what- 
ever, without  the  knowledge  of  the  conductor,  lest  you 
be  injured  by  some  accident,  or  left  behind. 

Neither  smoking  nor  dogs  are  allowed  in  the  car- 
riages ;  the  latter  are  conveyed  under  proper  arrange- 
ments, and  at  a  small  charge,  which  may  easily  be 
learnt  ut  each  station. 

Female  attendants  will  be  found  at  -^aoh  terminus, 
and  at  the  *  refreshment  station,  to  wait  on  ladies  and 
children. 


II 


i 


80 


EITROPKAN   OBSEKVATJOXS. 


Children  under  ten  years  of  age  are  conveyed  at  half- 
price  ;  only  inlants  unable  to  walk  are  carried  without 
charge. 

Invalids  and  decrepit  persons  commonly  receive  very 
considerate  attention  from  the  persons  employed  at  the 
stations  and  on  the  line  ;  but  they  must  calculate  on 
none  which  would  materially  interfere  with  the  general 
working  of  the  establishment,  except  they  have  expressly 
applied  for,  and  been  assured  of,  it  beforehand. 

Carriages  of  various  kinds,  special  and  public,  suitable 
to  the  dilferent  localities,  will  be  found  at  both  the 
termini,  and  at  nearly  all  the  stations. 

On  change  of  carriage,  or  leaving  the  train,  be  careful 
to  see  what  becomes  of  your  luggage. 

Each  person  employed  on  the  line  has  a  distinguishing 
u.unbcr  on  the  collar  of  his  coat ;  if  you  have  any  com" 
plaint  to  make,  write  to  the  Secretary,  designating  the 
offender  by  his  number. 

Railway  servants  are  enjoined  to  the  observance  of 
civility  and  attention  to  all  passengers,  atul  they  usually 
fullil  these  duties  very  cheerfully  when  treated  with 
common  propriety.  They  are  forbidden  to  receive  any 
fee  or  gratuity." 


I  i 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


81 


This  I  shall  endeavor  to  follow  in  all  my  travels. 

This  morning  I  start  for  the  metropolis.  At  9  o'clock 
the  cars  move  ;  everything  connected  with  them  goes  on 
like  clockwork.  The  depot  is  an  iron  building,  covered 
with  glass.  Here  are  men  in  uniform,  at  work  :  they 
are  those  who  belong  to  the  railway  company.  The 
coaches  are  built  diflerently  from  those  in  America. 
They  are  calculated  more  for  comfort,  at  least  in  sum- 
mer ;  but  in  winter  they  must  be  cold,  for  Lhere  is  uo 
place  for  fire  in  them. 

The  tunnel  through   which  we  pass  is  over  a  mile  in 
length,  and  some  distance  under  ground.     Having  trav- 
ersed this  artificial  cave,  the  black  iron  pony  starts  oa  his 
way  to  London  in  good  earnest.     Here  we  go  !  whirling, 
rolling,  rattling,  whistling,  at  the  rate  of  30  miles  an 
hour.    Our  conductor  in  uniform  wear,  a  watch,  and  car- 
ries in  his  hand  a  whistle.     With  his  tirr.  -piece  he  reg- 
ulates his  speed,   and  with    his    whistle  '^alls  out  "  all 
aboard  !"— he   speaks  not,  but  Wows  his  shrill  whistle. 
This  I  think  is  a  very  good  arrange.:.    :,  for  many  a  time 
some  one  speaks  as  loud  a.  he,  nmi  iu  that  case  he  could 
not  be  heard  ;  but  no  one  can  imitntf  tlie  whistle.     This 
therefore  is  much  more  suitab''?  than  the  sailor  phrase, 

4* 


II 


82 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


"  all  aboard,"  to  say  nothing  of  the  idea  which  it  gives 
to  travelling  in  a  rail-car  instead  of  a  steamboat. 

But  no  one  can  stop  to  ruminate  when  being  run  away 
with.     Here  we  go  !    What  a  beautiful  country  !    I  can 
at  least  take  a  bird's-eye  ^-iew  of  it.     Groups  of  trees, 
and  cultivated   fields  sp:    .,,    ig   as   far  as  the  eye  can 
reach,  on  both  sides.     Beautiful  green  hedges,  and  fields 
of  grain,  some   being  reaped,   and  some   still  standing, 
waving  gracefully  as  if  inviting  the  reapers  to  the  har- 
vest.    There  is  scarcely  a  spot  of  land  as  far  as  the  eye 
can  reach  that  is  not  cultivated.    Wlierever  the  English- 
man discovers  land  there  he  must  have  a  farm.     How 
vastly  superior  in  poirt  of  cultivation  is  th=-       mtry  to 
America  I     Were  they  as  much  superior    .  cu'  .ivation 
of  mind,  we  might  be  ashamed  of  ourselves  .     Unfortu- 
nately, they  who  till  the  soil  have  generally  little  time, 
and  still  less  opportunity,  for  mental  improvement.  With- 
out this,  all  this  landscape  beauty  is  but  an  outside  shell, 
and  when  our  country  shall  have  become  as  old  as  Enf^- 
land  now  is,  we  may  excel  the  English  in   cultivation 
and  refinement. 

I  could  wear  out  the  points  of  a  hundred  steel  pens  in 
writing  the  word  "beautiful."     The  garden-like  appear- 


[■* 


Lit  !li 


i, 

Si 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


83 


ance  of  the  whole  country  I  The  architectural  appearance 
of  the  residences,  from  the  proud  castle  to  the  humble 
cottage,  including  country  seats,  churches,  farm-houses, 
and  every  variety  of  shelter  !  The  speedy  and  perfect 
arrangement  of  the  railways,  and  the  facility  with  which 
the  functions  of  the  post-office  department  are  carried  on, 
are  surprising.  When  I  see  and  think  of  these  things,  I 
am  half  inclined  to  regret  coming  to  this  country,  for 
fear  that  on  my  return  home  I  may  not  love  my  native 
wilds  as  I  did  before.  But  whether  this  will  be  the  ef- 
fect upon  me  I  shall  be  able  to  judge  better  hereafter, 
when  I  sha.l  have  seen  other  parts  of  the  kingdom. 

For  two  hours  we  have  been  flying  like  a  blazing 
comet.  We  have  passed  over  a  rolling  country,  and 
found  that  there  are  some  marshes,  even  here.  The 
roads  traverse  in  all  directions,  and  are  bordered  with 
lovely  cottages,  through  the  casements  of  which  we  per- 
ceive now  and  then  beautiful  faces,  looking  at  us  as  we 
pass.  The  road-sides  are  planted  with  shade  trees,  and 
our  eyes  are  refreshed  with  the  sight  of  orchards,  giving 
sweet  promise  of  refreshment  to  the  body  when  their 
fruits  shall  have  been  gathered  in.  Much  pains  seems  to 
be  taken  in  the  rearing  of  ornamental  trees,  and  much 


84 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIOXS. 


care  bestowed  in  setting  them  out  and  making  them  sub- 
servient to  art. 

Look  at  those  deep  valleys  !  and  the  hills,  how  lofty 
and  finely  delineated  !  How  rich  and  luxuriant  are  the 
gardens  that  beautify  their  sides  !  But  you  cannot  see 
them  at  any  great  distance,  for  the  atmosphere  is 
hazy.  The  people  are  active  in  their  various  oc- 
cupations, which  in  the  towns  we  pass  are  generally 
divided  between  gardening  and  some  mechanical  em- 
ployment. 

And  this  is  England  !  the  land  about  which  I  have 
heard  and  read  so  much  !     It  is  but  a  small  island,  and 
I  remember  that  when  I  was  a  young  lad,  away  in  the 
forest,  I  often  looked  at  the  little  spot  it  occupied  on  the 
map,  (for  geographies  had  found  their  way  to  us),  and  as 
I  was  told  it  was  Great  Britain,  I  inquired,  and  wondered 
as  I  asked,  why  such  a  diminutive  place  should  be  called 
"  Great."     I  thought  I  might  put  it  in  my  pocket,  it 
looked  so  portable   and  insignificant.     But  now  I  find  it 
large—not  so  large  in  extent  of  territory  as  some  coun- 
tries,  but  large  in  point   of  population  and  the  intelli- 
gence of  the  people.     Among  its  inhabitants  are  some  of 
the  most  distinguished  teachers  of  the  world— men  who 


^ 


EUllOPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


85 


live  their  lives  in  earnest,  and  who  will  live  in  their 
works  for  ages. 

In  this  country  I  see  the  heart  of  that  commerce  whose 
broad  wings  are  spread  over  every  country  in  the  world. 
It  was  here  the  Anglo-Saxon  Race  was  cradled  ;  here 
they  were  educated,  and  from  this  place  they  have  gone 
forth  ;  distinguished  wherever  they  have  gone,  for  enter- 
prise, perseverance  and  intelligence.  These  are  the  qual- 
ities  which  characterize  England,  and  will  perpetuate  its 
existence.  Its  power  is  concentrated  in  the  intelligence 
and  education  of  the  people,  and  whatever  adds  to  these 
will  strengthen  the  bands  that  bind  it,  and  consolidate 
the  foundation  of  its  government. 

But  we  are  now  within  sight  of  a  great  city.  The 
tall  black  chimneys  of  its  manufactories  first  attract  my 
notice  ;  then  the  lofty  steeples  of  its  churches  ;  its  tower- 
ing,  massive  public  edifices— all  are  in  view.  Stepping 
from  the  cars,  I  tread  the  streets  of  the  great  city  of 
Birmingham. 

This  is  the  head  of  manufactures.  The  steel  which  is 
here  made  will  accomplish  the  double  work  of  doirur 
good  and  doing  evil— good  in  the  way  of  subduing  the 
wilderness  and  causing  it  to  minister  to  the  life  of  man, 


86 


EUIIOPKAN    ODSEIIVATIONS. 


uud  evil  in  the  way  oi'  ik'stioyluf?  life  and  niakiu}^  tlio 
earth  desolate.  Implements  ol"  husbandry,  and  the  arts 
on  the  one  hand,  and  swords,  knives,  rifles  and  muskets 
on  the  other. 


'>?•■':,: 


IIISTOKICAr.    SKKTCU    OF    niRMlNOIIAM. 

"  nirmin<,'hain,  a  lar<,^e  commercial  and  manufacturing 
city,  is  situated  in  the  north-east  corner  of  Warwickshire. 
It  is  sevcniy-nine  miles  south-east  Irom  Liverpool,  and 
the    same   distance    north-east   from    liristol,  both  in  a 
straij^ht  line.     As  Rirmin<>:ham  is  nearly  in  the  centre  of 
Enjxland,  its  situation  is  elevated.     The  soil  around  it  is 
lijjht,  but  has  lately  been  nuich  improved.     The  appear- 
ance of  the  city  itself  is  mean  ;  most  of  the  houses  being 
small   and  of  a  common  class,     b't.  Martins  is  the  only 
building  of  great  antiquity.     Its  exterior  is  rather  meagre, 
having  in   IGDO  been  cased  witii  a  covering  of  bricks  to 
prevent  it  from  falling.     The  spire  alone  remains  in  its 
original  state,  a  graceful  monument  of  olden  architecture. 
The  interior  is  grand  and  imposing,  though  disfigured  by 
a  coating  of  plaster   and  tawdry  ornaments.     St.  Thilips 
church  is   an  elegant   building,  and,  in  the  opinion  of 
many,  forms  the  chief  architectural  ornament  of  the  city. 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


87 


Besides  th.se  two,  there  are  ten  churches  and  chapels 
belonging  to  the  Estabhshed  Church,  and  forty-five  Dis- 
senting  Chapels,  several  of  them  elegant  erections.     Till 
lately,  Birmingham  possessed  lew  public  buildings  worthy 
o|-  notice,  but  the  citizens  are  adding  to  their  number. 
The  town-hall  is  a  splendid  edifice  of  Corinthian  order, 
the  material  being  of  Anglesea  marble.     Its  length  is  1 G6 
feet;  breadth   104  feet;  and  height  83  feet.     The  Sa- 
loon, 110  feet  long,  05  feet  wide,  and  05  foet  high,  con- 
tains one  of  the  largest  organs  in  Europe.     The  grammar- 
school  is  a  splendid  Gothic  edifi.e,  designed  by  Mr.  Barry, 
and  erected  at  an  expense  of  £4000.     The  theatre,  the 
.     banks,  the  libraries.  Society  of  Arts,  &c.,  are  worthy  of 
notice.     The  Schools  in  Birmingham  are  numerous  and 
flourishing.     Among  these  may  be  mentioned  the  free 
grammar-school,  founded  and  chartered  by  Edward  VI. 
Its  income  derived  from  land  is  £300  per  annum.     The 
Blue-Coat  School,  and  the  Protestant  Dissenters'  Charity 
School  are  supported  by  subscriptions.     There  are  several 
associations  for  moral  and  intellectual  improvement,  such 
tts  a  mechanics'  institution,  possessing  a  library  of  1200 
volumes,  the  Society  of  Arts  and  a  philosophical  institu- 
tion.    The  old  library  contains  about    17,000  volumes. 


;«''^??«?ft**Mffl5st?!*^  7 


88 


EUROPEAN   OBSEKVATIONS. 


and  the  new  library  4000  volumes.  The  Savings  Bank 
and  provident  institutions,  and  Societies  are  numerous  and 
highly  beneficial.  There  are  also  many  charitable  insti- 
tutions well  supported.  The  Dispensary,  Humane  So- 
ciety, and  Magdalen  Institution  merit  great  praiso. 
From  a  very  early  period  Birmingham  has  been  renown- 
ed for  its  manufactures  in  steel  and  iron.  This  trade  is 
now  carried  on  to  an  extent  elsewhere  unequalled.  The 
principal  branches  of  it  are,  plate  and  plated  wares,  or- 
namented steel  goods,  jewelery,  japanery,  papier  mache, 
cut  glass  ornaments,  steel-pens,  buckles,  and  buttons, 
cast-iron  ariicles,  guns,  steam  engines,  &c.  Birmingham 
IS  connected  with  London  and  various  places  by  means 
of  canals,  and  forms  a  centre  of  railway  communication 
with  every  part  of  the  kingdom. 

The  railway  from  London  to  Birmingham,  which  was 
opened  in  1837,  is  now  amalgamated  with  the  Grand 
Junction  Line,  the  two  forming  the  London  and  North 
Western  Railway. 

Birmingham  returns  two  members  of  Parliament. 
The  population  in  1831  was  110,914:  including  the 
suburbs  138,252.     In  1841  it  was  182,922." 

Having  touched  at  Birmingham,  I  am  still  on  my  way 


li 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


89 


to  Lotulou — now  rushing  headlong  into  the  base  of  a  hill, 
where  is  nothing  but  darkness,  smoke,  and  noise — now 
suddenly  emerging  into  light,  pleasantness,  and  joy — and 
now  rushing  madly  onward  as  if  the  old  proverb,  "  Cau- 
tion is  the  parent  ol  .safety,"  had  been  entirely  forgotten. 

About  2  o'clock,  I  am  in  the  suburb  station  of  the 
great  city  of  Loudon.  The  people  swarm  like  bees,  but 
there  is  comparatively  no  confusion  among  them.  The 
hack  drivers  are  endowed  with  a  most  persuasive  elo- 
quence, but  like  certain  other  orators  there  is  in  what 
they  say  more  sound  than  sense. 

To  know  where  I  should  go  I  stood  for  a  while,  biting 
my  lips,  and  leaning  on  one  of  the  posts.  Directly  I 
took  a  "  bee-line"  to  Mr.  Jlandall's  Hotel,  in  King  Street, 
Cheap-side,  where  I  have  been  told  a  great  many  Amer- 
icans stay.  "  What  a  sight  of  people  !"  as  one  of  the 
New-Englanders  would  say.  Oxford,  Holborn  and  Cheap- 
side  seemed  to  me  literally  crammed  and  sufTocating. 
Old  houses,  settled  at  the  corners,  but  looking  as  if,  had 
they  ever  been  going  to  fall  they  would  have  tumbled 
long  before.  Antique  and  odd-looking  edifices,  smutty 
walls,  and  narrow,  worn-out  pavements,  were  among  the 
first  objects  that  presented  themselves  to  my  view.     And 


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90 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


this  is  London  !  But  I  will  not  speak  of  it  until  I  have 
seen  something  of  the  city.  The  famed  St.  Paul's  is  but 
a  few  steps  from  here.  The  General  Post  Office  and  the 
Bank  are  near  by,  as  v/ell  as  the  fine  London  Bridge. 
This  is  the  pasture  of  John  Bull.  Here  are  no  signs  of 
French  varnish,  but  "  beef  and  puddings"  are  plenty. 


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of 


CHAPTER  IX. 


LONDON. 

My  first  clay  in  the  metropoh-s  must  be  set  down  as  a 

.    Yesterday  I  did  nothing,   with  the  exception  of 

hunting  after  myself  and  feeling  how  strange  it  was  to 
get  lost.     The  longer  I  rode,  hoping  to  get  from  one  side 
of  the  city  to  the  other,  and  to  attain  a  position  at  a  dis- 
tance where  I  could  look  on,  the  more  did  it  seem  as  if 
there  was  no  other  end  to  the  city. 

Following  the  long,  narrow,  zigzag  course  of  the  streets 
which  met  at  the  door  of  the  Exchange.  I  had  a  good  op- 
portunity of  seeing  the  m  st  ancient  parts  of  the  city. 

Here  is  the  reign  of  noise  and  confusion.  Here  com- 
merce centres  from  all  countries ;  and  here  are  to  be 
seen  people  from  all  parts  of  the  world— of  every  color 
and  name,  not  excepting  the  copper-color.     Viewing  the 


92 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


difiereut  parts  of  the  city,  I  could  perceive  the  gradual 
change  in  the  style  of  buildings,  which   here  mark  the 
progress  of  architciture,  and  may  be  taken  as  a  monu- 
mental history  of  this  most  beautiful  of  the  arts.    All  thb 
varieties  of  architecture  used  by  the  Britons,  from  the  old- 
fashioned  gables  and  style  of  roofing,   to  the  most  ex- 
quisite compositions   of  Gothic,   Ionic,  Corinthian,    &c., 
are  to  be  seen  in  London.     There  towers  St.  Paul's  high 
above  the  rest,  and  on  account  of  the  smoke  of  the  city 
looks  as  if  it  greeted  the  sky   above  the  clouds.     The 
General  Po,st  Office  is  a  very  fine  building.    Here  all  day 
long,  including  the  whole  twenty-four  hours,  can  be  seen 
the  coaches  that  convey  the  letters  and  papers  of  the 
population  of  the  kingdom. 

The  Postman  is  a  man  of  importance.  His  red  coat 
makes  him  conspicuous,  and  his  employment  is  not  de- 
void of  variety.  He  sports  a  whip  and  a  horn.  With  a 
blast  of  the  latter  he  clears  the  track  :  to  impede  his 
progress  would  be  an  insult  to  the  aueen.  He  feels  a 
great  deal  higher  than  \\h  Highness  the  favorite  of  Eno-- 
land.  Prince  Albert.  His  red  coat  covers  all  defects,  in 
his  own  estimation,  and  places  him  among  stars  of  the 
first  magnitude.     Yet  of  all  men  he  is  the  most  indus- 


liiiiiiti! 


EUEOl'EAN  OBSEKVATIJNS. 


93 


trious-puuctual  to  a  minute  m  hi,  going  and  coming- 
you  cau  always  depend  on  liini. 

Letter,  collected  fto.n  all  the  surrounding  re.,ion  are 
gathered  into  the  General  Post  Office,  and  from  thence 
are  sent  to  the  sub-post-offices  in  various  parts  of  the  city ; 
and  so  rapidly  and  methodically  does  the  wheel  of  this 
great  machine  move,  that   9  o'clock  in   the  morning 
brrngs  you  letters  mailed  in  Liverpool  the  evening  before, 
and  only  a  penny  a-piece  !     This  cheap  postage  is  per- 
haps  the  greatest  blessing  the  British  Government  has 
bestowed  on  its  subjects.     Whatever  fault  I  may  here- 
after  have  occasion  to  find   with  the  management  of 
government  affairs,  let  me  here  pay  a  just  tribute  to  the 
men  who  have  been  instrumental  i„  bringing  about  thU 
great  good.     Such  a  boon  should  immortahze  them  ■  and 
doubtless  it  will.     This  is  the  great  channel  of  the  life- 
Wood  of  English  prosperity,  which,  flowing  i„  rivulets 
over  the  country,  wll  animate  the  fettered  souk  of  the 
vorkmg  classes.     By  means  of  the  knowledge  thus  re- 
eeived,  they  will  better  their  own  condition  instead  of 
lookmg  to  the  government  with  famished  eyes  for  aid 
The  information  they  thus  obtain  will  give  them  the 
means  of  living.     Neither  the  failures  of  the  rich  nor  the 


94 


E L'KOPE AN   OBSERVATIONS. 


■'ti:. 


perilous  times  in  the  crises  of  comtnerce,  will  ever  endan- 
ger their  subsistence.  Too  much  legislation  has  been  al- 
ways productive  of  evil.  The  people  stop  sowing  and 
reaping  to  sec  what  government  will  do,  and  while  rest- 
ing, the  seeds  of  discord  are  being  sown  and  a  harvest  of 
famine,  suffering  and  death  stares  them  in  the  face.  All 
lay  the  consequences  at  the  door  of  the  government, 
when,  if  they  were  rightly  viewed,  they  would  be  found 
where  they  belong — at  the  doors  of  the  victims  them- 
selves. 

It  is  by  teaching  men  to  help  themselves  that  the 
knowledge  difi'used  among  the  people  will  be  of  more 
value  than  the  springing  of  new  mines  of  gold  and  silver 
and  precious  stones.  The  railroads  of  England,  and  the 
thousands  of  men  who  are  employed  in  opening  the  gate- 
ways of  light,  are  doing  a  great  work.  Steamboats,  rail- 
roads, wires — all — all,  are  urging  the  "  good  time  com- 
ing." The  day-star  is  rising,  and  the  glory  it  will  shed 
down  upon  the  earth  will  gladden  the  homes  of  poverty. 
Let  it  come  while  I  live  and  stand  over  the  place  where 
the  child  of  Humanity  is  born,  that  I  may  aid  in  the 
glad  shout,  "  The  world  is  free,  and  all  nations  are 
happy." 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS.  95 

Having  delivered  several  letters  on  Thursday  in  the 
West  End,  I  soon  found  myself  in  the  company  of  men 
whose  hearts  were  endowed  with  the  genuine  fire  of  pa- 
triotism and  philanthropy.     By  request  of  Judge  Rushton 
I  went  to  see  the  celebrated  painter,  G.,  i„  Kensington. 
New  Town.     I  found  him  in  his  studio-tall,  manly, 
fine  looking,  and  very  graceful  in  his  motions.     From 
thence  I  went  to  the  House  of  Lords,  where  I  delivered 
my  letters  to  lord  Brougham  and  others,  who  cordially 
received  me.    They  introduced  me  to  the  members  of  the 
House  of  Commons.     The  House  was  not  half  full,  it  be- 
ing near  the  close  of  the  session,  and  many  of  the  mem- 
bers having  gone  to  Scotland  on  a  grouse-shooting  excur- 
sion. 

In  going  to  the  House  of  Commons  with  Mr.  Brown, 
the  member  from  Liverpool,  I  expected  to  see  something 
much  more  splendid  than  the  Capitol  at  Washington. 

In  this  I  was  disappointed,  for  I  had  judged  of  the  in- 
terior of  the  building  by  the  grand  appearance  of  the 
exterior  as  it  stands  in  bold  relief  from  the  Thames 
river. 

The  House  of  Lords  is  a  splendid  Hall-full  of  decora- 
tions-stained glass-with  symbolic  figures-and  various 


i" 


i'.l 


96 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


designs.  The  seats  are  low  and  without  backs  ;  and  the 
roof  of  the  Hall  is  of  glass.  There  are  narrow  end  gal- 
leries, and  seats  elevated  in  the  end  near  the  door. 

The  Throne  is  a  large  chair  gilded  with  gold.  Its 
decorations  are  magnificent.  The  curtains  and  carpet- 
ing most  exquisite.  1  was  seated  in  that  part  appropri- 
ated to  distinguished  visitors  to  the  country,  from  whence 
I  could  see  the  few  visitors  standing  near  the  door. 
Lord  Brougham  was  then  sitting  as  the  chancellor,  hear- 
ing cases.  In  the  midst  of  the  duties  he  had  to  perform 
he  came  out  first  to  greet  us  in  the  lobby,  and  ordered 
the  usher  to  place  us  in  the  seat  most  favorable  for  ob- 
servation. I  had  expected  there  would  be  much  good 
speaking  ; — but  to  my  astonishment  there  were  only  two 
Lords  present.  On  asking  why  there  were  not  many 
more,  I  was  told  that  one  could  sit  and  hear  all  the  cases 
that  were  to  come  before  the  house,  and  in  order  to  ob- 
viate the  predicament  of  speakers  in  saying  "  My  Lords," 
(using  the  plural,)  two  had  to  sit,  and  by  their  presence 
justify  the  appellation.  So,  thought  I  to  myself,  that 
poor  fat  man  has  to  sit  7  hours  or  more  to  supply  the  s 
to  the  M'ord  "  Lords."  This  Hall  is  most  gorgeous  ;  yet 
there  is  but  little  comfort  either  speaking  or  sitting. 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


97 


Having  gone  over  the  building,  which  is  immense, 
with  Mr.  Brown,  of  the  House  of  Commons,  we  made 
an  appointment  to  meet  him  at  his  Hotel  in  the  even- 
ing  when  we  shall  meet  more  than  dozen  of  the  most 

influential  members  of  the  House  of  Commons,  to  dine 

with  us. 

On   repairing   to   Finton's  Hotel,  where   Mr.  Brown 
stops,  we  met   Mr.    Wilson.    Commissioner   of  Govern- 
ment,  an  M.  P.  with  other  Government  secretaries,  and 
Mr.  Brotherton,  the  vegetarian  M.  P.     He  does  not  look 
like  the  description  Sam  Slick  gives  of  a  vegetarian  or 
Grahamite,  whon  he  says  he  is  like  a  pair  of  tongs-all 
legs  up  to  his  neck  which  is  small,  and  his  head  like  a 
round  ball.     This  Mr.  B.  is  quite  another  man-so  Sam 
is  mistaken  for  once,  though  he   may  be  right  in  the 
majority  of  cases. 

Many  questions  were  asked  me  at  dinner  which  I 
answered  as  well  as  I  was  able.  These  people  know 
how  to  live-and  well  they  may,  for  it  has  been  a  great 
study  with  them. 


CHAPTER  X. 


ILLUSTRIOUS   ILLUSTRATED. 


rj 


On  Monday  morning  the  London  News  and  other  pa- 
pers noticed  our  presence  in  the  House  of  Commons  on 
Saturday. 

"  An  Ojibbeway  Missionary. — During  the  sitting  of 
the  House  of  Commons  on  Saturday,  a  stranger  was  ob- 
served below  the  bar,  to  whom  several  members  paid 
marked  attention.  On  inquiry,  we  were  informed  it  was 
the  Rev.  (Tcorge  Copway,  otherwise  Kah-ge-ga-gah- 
Bow,  an  American  chieftain,  who  has  visited  England 
on  his  way  to  attend  the  Peace  Congress  at  Frankfort. 
Twelve  years  ago  he  was  the  chief  of  a  tribe  of  Ojibbe- 
ways,  and  a  hunter  in  the  woods ;  but  having  visited 
Illinois  during  the  years  1838  and  1839,  he  was  educa- 
ted at  the  expense  of  some  benevolent  persons,  and  bap- 
tized, when   he   returned  to  his   nation,  determined  to 


EUROPEAN  0I3SEUVATI0NS.  99 

labor  for  the  elevation  of  the  Indian  people.     Having 
devised  a  scheme  with  that  object,  he  is  now  seeking  the 
means  of  carrying  it  out.  and  hopes  to  raise  funds  in^Eu- 
rope  for  the  purpose.     His  projecc  is.  that  the  Indians  of 
the  northwest,  consisting  of  about  100.000  souls,  shall  bo 
granted  forever  about  150  square  miles  of  territory,  be- 
tween  the  falls  of  8t.  Anthony  and  the  west  of  Minasotah, 
and  by  giving  them  a  permanent  settlement  in  this  land, 
induce  them  to  become  farmers,  and  learn  the  arts  of 
peace  and  civihzation.  and  it  is  understood  the  American 
government  is  favorable  to  the  scheme.     Ke  is  a  person 
of  commanding  presence,   and    speaks  the  English  Ian- 
guage  fluently.     During  his  stay  at  Liverpool,  at  which 
port  he  arrived  in  the  Niagara,  two  meetings  were  held 
at  which  he  detailed  his  plan,  but  what  success  is  to 
attend  the  pecuniary  part  of  it  on  this  side  of  the  Atlan- 
tic has  yet  to  be  determined." 

This  week  I  expect  to  have  a  good  opportunity  of  ob- 
serving the  speakers  of  the  House  of  Commons. 

One  word  about  the  Hall  of  this  House.  It  is  an  ill-pro- 
portioned  building-constructed.  I  suppose,  according  to 
rules  of  art.  but  without  reference  to  comfort  or  pleasure. 
The  roof  is  very  high,  narrow  and  long-more  hke  a 


100 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


iiij 


giant  coffin  than  anything  else.     Benches  without  backs 
like  the  seats  of  an  old-fashioned  country  school-house. 

When  this  Hall  was  building  the  seats  were  apportion- 
ed  as  follows— Twenty  inches  were  allowed  to  each 
member.  When  they  commenced  occupying  their  scats 
more  than  one  fourth  were  excluded  from  the  house  for 
the  want  of  room,  the  corporation  of  the  English  being 
upon  the  portly  order,  and  ranging  above  the  averaj, 
dimensions.  Some  whom  I  have  seen,  judging  from 
their  portlmess,  w^uld  occupy  two  scats  in  the  House  of  ' 
Commons,  lor  if  inches  are  the  measure  of  a  seat  which 
a  member  is  to  occupy,  the  corporeal  dimensions  of  the 
member  himself  must  add  very  greatly  to  his  importance. 

Monday^  at  1 1  o'clock,  we  again  visited  the  House  of 
Commons.  The  speakers  were  Mr.  Smith,  one  of  the 
secretaries  ;  Lord  John  Russell ;  Bright ;  Hume ;  Cob- 
den  and  D'Israeli.  The  Bill  before  the  House  was  the 
yearly  appropriation  bill  for  the  sustaining  and  increas- 
ing of  the  Armament  of  the  country. 

Here,  during  the  time  of  each  visit,  I  had  a  place  for 
hearing  and  becoming  acquainted  with  the  speakers.  Ba- 
ron Rothschild's  case  came  up,  the  result  of  which  was 
not  in  ^^'s  favor. 


lU 


EUROPEAN  OnSE'WATIONS. 


lOJ, 


At  my  left  he  is  now  sitting— the  great  banker.  His 
case  is  now  befbre  the  House.  D'Israeh  has  ju.st  s^  down, 
after  delivering  a  poweriUl  appeal  in  his  favor.  They 
are  now  debating  the  Jew  auestiou  Mr.  Rothschild  has 
been  elected  by  the  people  of  the  city  of  London.  But 
because  he  is  a  Jew  they  question  his  right  in  the  House. 
He  cannot  subscribe  to  the  oath  intended  for  all  protes- 
tant  members. 

His  personal  appearance  is  elegant.  He  moves  with 
ease  and  grace— no  aristocratic  a  r  auout  him— i^o  cod- 
fish flavor.  In  height  he  is  about  medium.  His  hair 
rather  bushy ;  nose,  well  formed.  While  the  debate 
goes  on  he  I  ins  forward  and  listens  with  the  greatesi 
interest.  Occasionally  a  smile  flies  over  his  expressive 
countenance. 

That  small  man  is  the  man  to  whom  emperors  bow 
the  knee  as  before  the  God  of  this  world.  Only  one  or 
two  in  the  House  have  gone  up  to  him. 

Around  me  are  some  distinguished  individuals  of  other 
climes.  They  have  been  introduced  by  some  member 
of  the  House. 

Lord  John  is  a  middle-sized  person,  rather  lean,  on 
the  Yankee  order.     His  face  indicates  more  energy  than 


102 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


hi 


physical  strength.  He  is  rather  quick.  His  features 
are  short  and  his  nose  prominent,  a  little  above  the  me- 
dium size.  He  leans  forward  a  little  when  apparently 
unconscious  of  it.  You  naturally  attach  less  dignity  to  his 
person  than  to  his  mind.  He  has  great  penetration,  but 
lacks  in  power  of  execution.  Yet  he  will  always  be 
valued  as  a  public  servant,  as  one  well  versed  in  the 
past  as  well  as  the  present  political  history  of  his 
country. 

Bright  rises,  ari  there  is  quite  a  stir  in  the  House. 
This  is  in  keeping  with  his  noisy,  rattling,  banging  mode 
of  speaking.  He  speaks  well,  and  is  occasionally  jovial 
and  sarcastic.  His  person  is  rather  tall,  erect,  and 
borders  on  the  Aldermanic.  He  is  a  shrewd  politician- 
one  who  observes,  if  he  does  keep  pace  with,  the  pro- 
gress of  the  times.  He  watches  the  aspects  and  cnanges 
in  the  political  world  as  some  men  do  the  signs  and  vari- 
ations in  the  weather.  He  dresses  plainly  and  in  good 
taste. 

Cobden  rises :  This  is  the  man  whom  we  in  America 
have  found  reason  to  think  so  much  about.  Is  that  Cob- 
den ?  That  one  who  speaks  so  hesitatingly  and  leans 
forward?     There  is  nothing  peculiarly   striking  in  his 


J 


V 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


103 


person.  Tall  and  lean — his  face  well  proportioned — his 
forehead  well  formed.  Facts,  as  a  certain  phrenologist 
would  say,  stick  out  like  horns,  and  with  them  he  does 
more  execution  than  the  graceful  delivery  and  fiery  elo. 
quence  of  many  another  are  able  to  at  omplish.  Facts, 
solid  as  rocks,  are  the  weapons  he  uses.  The  papers 
which  he  holds  in  his  left  hand  are  like  nails  and  spikes, 
and  his  right  hand  is  like  a  hammer.  His  speech  is 
without  varnish,  but  his  facts  are  so  ingeniously  put 
forth,  one  after  another,  that  there  is  a  kind  of  magic 
about  them  ;  and  when  in  the  mind  the  scale  has  long 
gone  down,  one  asks  himself,  "  Why  does  he  still  heap 
up  arguments,  since  he  has  gained  all  he  desires  ?" 
And  yet  another  comes,  and  another,  until  you  wonder 
what  there  is  to  come  next. 

Cobden  appears  to  be  one  of  those  great  men  who  in 
the  different  periods  of  the  world,  and  in  the  different 
countries,  have  been  created  by  the  force  of  circum- 
stances. He  is  one  who,  in  my  humble  opinion,  has  done 
a  great  deal  of  good,  and  who  will  yet  be  a  still  greater 
blessing  to  his  countrymen,  and  to  the  world.  His  over- 
whelming arguments  have  rolled  over  the  empire,  and 
echoed  among  the  hills  and  forests  of  our  own  country.  His 


104 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


admirers  are  in  every  State  in  tlie  Union.     His  keen  eye 
sees  with  a  glance  the  part  that  should  next  be  enacted 
on  the  stage  of  political  hfe  ;  and  when  circumstances  fa- 
vor  an  explosion  of  public  sentiment,  Richard  Cobden 
is  there,  the  champion  of  the  people  and  the  exponent  of 
political  rights.     Yesterday  I  heard  of  a  circumstance 
which  heightened  my  admiration  of  the  man.     It  was 
this  :  During  one  of  the  years  of  agitation  with  reference 
to  the  Corn  Laws,  the  government  finding  that  it  could 
hardly  carry  its  measures  through  Parliament,  it  was 
agreed  that  Richard  Cobden  should  be  offered  a  situation 
in  the  Cabinet  as  one  of  its  agents  in  London.      The  dis- 
patch which  was  effl^ctually  to  stop  the  mouth  of  the 
great  agitator,  was  sent.    The  special  messenger  having 
delivered  his  commission,  Cobden  was  for  days  all  silence. 
Here  was  a  fat  office  to  secure  for  life,  or  for  a  great  part 
of  his  lifetime.     Principles  and  pecuniary  considerations 
were  at  war  with  each    other,  and  the  latter  had  the 
honors  of  office  on  their  side,   which  in    an  aristocratic 
country  are  not  small.   The  people  of  England  and  the 
powerful  government ;  the  hovels  of  wretchedness  and 
the  laurels  of  State,  were  arrayed  against  each  other. 
Night  after  night  and  day  after  day.  and  not  a  word  from 


EUKOPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


105 


Cobden.  At  last  he  cleclinea  the  honors  of  State  for  the  good 
of  the  whole.  Power  and  wealth  cannot  buy  his  prin- 
ciples and  his  love  of  his  brethren,  the  laboring  classes. 
He  is  a  promoter  of  the  principlesof  1  ace,  of  Education, 
and  of  everything  which  makes  man  worthy  of  his  God. 

Next  Thursday  I  take  breakfast  with  him.  Many  of 
my  friends  would  wonder,  if  they  knew  this,  why  he 
should  have  invited  me  to  breakfast.  With  gentlemen  in 
England  it  is  the  best  time  to  hold  conversation  with 
each  other,  and  this  makes  it  a  convenient  time  for  him 
to  see  me.     But  I  am  anticipating. 

After  the  speech  of  Cobden,  another  arose,  whose  name 
I  did  not  learn,  and  the  bag  of  wind  he  discharged  re- 
minded me  of  the  man  who  attempted  to  propel  his  ves- 
sel in  a  calm  by  means  of  a  huge  pair  of  bellows  he  had 
placed  on  board. 

Then  came  the  famed  protectionist,  D'Israeli.  The 
members  of  the  House  of  Commons  pay  as  much  atten- 
tion to  his  speeches  as  the  members  of  the  U.  S.  Senate 
pay  to  those  of  Henry  Clay.  They  gathered  around  him 
as  soon  as  he  commenced,  and  on  he  went  with  his 
speech.  He  is  of  middle  stature,  rather  thick-set,  well- 
proportioned  head,  large  eyes  but  not  particularly  pene- 

5* 


106 


EUJIOPEAJV   OBSERVATIOXS. 


ni 


41 


trating,  with  a  contour  of  face  uuiform  rather  than  other- 
wise. 

He  speaks  easily  but  with  a  great  deal  of  afTectation. 
His  gesticulation,  are  kv.  and  tliose  very  much  studied. 
The  winding  up  of  his  speech,  and  the  appellation,  "my 
lord,"  to  lord  John,  to  whom  he  addressed  himself,  was 
done  with  an  air  of  dignity,  importance  and  respect.  He 
has  less  brilliancy  than  tact  and  knowledge  of  political 
tactics.  Policy  is  his  creed,  and  he  lives  up  to  it.  He 
steps  back,  is  silent  for  a  while,  then  commences  with 
"  ^^y  lord"_and  all  this  is  for  efTect. 

The  personnel  of  D'Israeli  has  no  doubt  aided  him  in 
his  rise  in  the  House  of  Parliament.     There  is  always 
much  that  is  to  be  admired  in  the  personal  history  of  such 
men.     He  like  most  men  who  have  risen  to  eminence  in 
political  life  has  gone  up  upon  the  stilts  of  some  peculiar 
circumstance,    borne  up  on  the  wave  of  some  popular 
excitement.     His  power  of  speech,  it  cannot  be  denied, 
has  been  a  considerable  cause  of  his  success.     His  ability 
to  write  is  another.     A  man  may  be  a  good  speaker,  and 
at  the  same  time  a  very  indillbrent  writer.     To  be  good 
in  both  these  capacities  he  holds  a  power  the  strongest 
of  all  powers,  save  the  divine. 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


107 


There  is  much  excitement  in  the  a'J)peals  and  speeches 
of  D'Israeli,  and  when  he  seats  himself  the  applause  is 
almost  deafening.  I  present  to  my  readers  a  faithful 
portrait  of  him  from  an  original  sketch. 

This  morning  when  I  entered  the  House,  I  was  told 
that  Lord  John  Russell  had  just  entered,  and  having 
seated  myself,  I  inquired  which  of  the  crowd  was  the 
lord. 

"  The  person  sitting  next  to  the  pretty  Englishman  on 
the  left." 

"  He  with  a  black  frock  on  ?" 

"  The  very  one." 

He  sat  there  as  though  he  had  just  turned  to  allow  ug 
a  good  profile  view  of  his  face. 

That  is  the  man  who  has  been  before  the  public  so 
long,  to  see  and  hear  whom  the  eyes  and  ears  of  millions 
have  been  engaged.  His  dress  is  plain,  and  without  that 
air  and  bearing  which  I  thought  he  had,  forming  my 
judgment  by  what  I  had  read  respecting  him. 

A  medium-sized  person — lean,  yet  well  proportioned. 
His  face  open,  his  foreliead  bare  and  head  well  formed, 
with  many  of  its  organs  very  fully  developed.  His  nose 
rather  of  the  knife  order  (this  is  not  intended  for  cutting 


U 


'^'  ~msmbit' 


108 


EUROrEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


satire.)  His  eyes  large  and  piercing,  and  an  index  of  his 
disposition.  He  is  easy  in  his  manner,  and  at  home,  in 
every  position. 

He  appears  generous  to  his  opponents,  and  demands 
hke  treatment  in  return. 

When  he  speaks  his  head  inclines  somewhat  to  one 
side,  and  his  right  hand  often  thrust  into  the  folds  of  his 
vest.  He  attempts  no  display  of  oratory.  He  speaks 
plain  and  lays  all  his  arguments  and  motives  open  ;  at- 
tempts no  concealment  of  plans,  hut  marks  out  his  course 
and  sticks  to  it  with  the  tenacity  of  gold  dust  to  a  miser's 
heart. 

One  of  his  Secretaries  generally  speaks  immediately 
after  him,  and  it  is  then  that  Lord  John  is  wide  awake. 
I  do  not  mean  to  say  that  he  is  not  at  all  times  "  wide 
awake,"  but  at  this  juncture  he  is  more  than  usually  so. 
The  restless  hands  of  Hume,  Oglethorpe,  disturb  him. 

The  satire  of  D'Israeli,  the  facts  of  Cobden,  he  feels 
most  keenly.  They  fill  his  seat  with  nettles ;  but  he, 
with  a  true  philosophic  mind,  admires  the  ingenious  way 
in  which  they  arrange  them,  and  though  they  may  give 
pain,  he  sits  on  them  with  some  satisfaction. 

Among  the  group  who  have  just  come  to  salute  me  in 


IJ  '  I  S  R  A  £  i. 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS.  109 

that  part  of  the  House  which  is  kindly  allotted  to  me,  are 
some  of  the  most  interesting  speakers,  and  Lord  John 
Russell.  He  comes  and  seats  himself  with  the  rest—the 
arguments  go  on  ;  but  he  does  not  care  the  w.ight  of  a 

spike  how  much  may  be  said  by  the  opposition.    " 

A  Leghorn  hat  is  perched  upon  his  head.     Now  like  a 

school-boy  goes  and  seats  himself  among  the  group  of  his 

^Secretaries. 

There  is  also  George  Thompson,  who  was  among  the 
first  to  give  us  his  hand,  and  welcome  us  to  the  floor  of 
the  House. 

I  could  faintly  remember  the  sketches  I  had  read  of 
him  in  the  American  papers  twelve  years  ago.  But  not 
much,  for  then  I  was  just  learning  my  English  alphabet. 
A  high,  well-developed  forehead  and  a  Roman  nose 
grace  his  iron  front.  He  is  the  friend  of  the  slave. 
Though  I  could  not  subscribe  to  all  his  acts  and  views  of 
employing^  certain  ends  for  a  holy  purpose. 

I  can  give  you  no  just  idea  of  his  speaking  powers-a 
hurricane  is  nesiling  on  his  brow-and  the  flashes  of  fire 
glow  in  his  eyes.  A  meat-axe  behind  his  ears.  He  has 
a  good  address,  a  graceful  swing  of  long  arms,  and  a 
lion's  mercy  at  the  ends  of  his  fingers.  I  have  no  doubt  he 


110 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


is  a  smart  man  by  his  looks.  His  lull  knowledge  of  this, 
does  him  little  good.  The  pronoun  /  is  a  great  stum- 
bling-block to  many  in  this  world.  To  use  a  common  ex- 
pression they  are  "  all  in  my  eye." 

The  Under-Secretary  Smith  has  just  arose  to  explain. 
Lord  Russell  takes  things  very  coolly.  He  sits  on  one  of 
the  ministerial  benches  apparently  without  any  concern, 
and  endures  all  that  is  said  by  the  opposition  with  the  air 
of  a  philosopher. 

There  is  another  gentleman  just    got  up  to  speak 

very  little  hair  on  his  head — quite  elderly — tall  and  as 
lean  as  a  monument.  Why  do  they  laugh  ?  His  dress 
is  a  good  one,  as  graceful  as  the  rest.  "  The  poor  man 
is  the  scape-goat  of  the  House,"  a  gentleman  whispers  in 
my  ears.  He  stands  as  firm  as  a  young  man  of  twenty. 
See,  if  there  is  any  leaning  it  is  not  on  the  side  of  old 
age.  In  the  midst  of  laughing  applause  his  legs 
gave  way  before  the  cries  of  his  tormentors  and  the 
shouts  of  "  go  on"  from  his  friends  who  pity  him.  I 
could  hardly  keep  my  own  tongue  still.  He  said  a  few 
words,  or  attempted  to,  which  amounted  to  just  about 
nothing  or  less. 

Lord  John  enjoyed  the  scene  vastly. 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


Ill 


This  day  bcinrr  quite  pleasant  there  arc  quite  a  num- 
ber of  visitors  seated  in  the  galleries.  Far  out  some  dis- 
tance from  where  I  sit,  I  see  my  friend  the  lion.  George 
Folsom.  of  New  York,  minister  to  one  of  the  forei-n 
courts,  with  his  spectacles  glistening  and  looking  through 
them  with  a  vast  deal  of  penetration. 

There  are  quite  a  number  of  reporters  up  in  the  galle- 
ry connected  with  the  various  papers.  Many  of  these 
are  now  taking  notes  on  which  to  found  some  stinging 
satire  for  the  morrow's  papers. 

This  hall  is  an  ill-constructed  thing.     It  is  said  that 
the  roof  was  so  high  that  it  had  to  be  lowered  in  order 
that  the  voice  might  reverberate  throughout  the  house. 
Before  coming  here  I  had  in  my  mind  the  idea  chat  I 
was  to  see  something  that  might  have  been  a  model  for 
the  Capitol  at  Washington,  or  at  any  rate  something  su- 
perior to  it.     But  I  find  that  it  is  neither  adapted  to 
comfort  nor  to  ease  in  speaking.     The  seats  are  very  or- 
dinary,  but  the  decorations  are  rich  and  in  good  taste. 

This  is  the  interior  of  the  House  of  Commons  !  and 
now  I  must  go  and  take  a  view  of  it  out  of  doors. 

A  building  of  Gothic  style,  which  would  cover  nearly 
four  squares  of  New  York  city      There  is  a  great  deal  of 


112 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


fine  work  laid  out  upon  it.  My  friends  muct  imagine 
they  see  a  tremendous  gingerbread,  nearly  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  long,  300  feet  high,  and  400  wide,  and  they  will 
have  a  good  conception  of  its  size  and  looks.  The  fine- 
ness and  delicacy  of  the  workmanship  will  furnish  the 
tooth  of  Time  with  a  soft  morsel. 

I  gaze  with  admiration  and  wonder  at  the  sight  before 
nic.  From  this  house  will  emanate  laws  that  will  tell 
upon  the  dcdtinies  of  British  subjects  throughout  the 
world,  and  upon  the  destinies  of  the  race.  Before  this 
Hah  shall  have  crumbled  into  dust,  it  will  have  resound- 
ed with  the  eloquei'  •  of  generations  of  the  greatest  and 
best  of  the  noblest  race  on  the  face  of  the  earth,  A 
thousand  years  hence,  the  true-hearted  Britons  will  hold 
on  to  its  tottering  walls,  and  cling  to  every  stone,  because 
those  who  now  occupy  it,  and  the  many  generations  who 
shall  follow,  will  have  made  it  venerable. 

The  New  Houses  op  Parliament. — A  parliamen- 
tary paper,  entitled,  "  A  general  statement  of  the  expen- 
diture hicarred,  and  proposed  to  be  incurred,  in  respect 
of  the  site,  and  in  erecting  and  completing  the  new  palace 
at  Westminster,"  shows  that  the  total  expended  for  these 


1 


f-'l'TTi ; 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


118 


buildings  to  be  Xl, 173,210  16s.  Sd. ;  total  unexpeudetl, 
£821.005  V.)s.  :ul. ;  total  expended  and  unexpended, 
Xl,997,216  15s.  lid. 


[ 


CHAPTEE  XI. 


RAMBLES   IX   HAMPTOX   COURT. 


Wednesday  morning  we  set  out  for  Hampton  Court, 
twelve  miles  from  the  city— a  gay  company  of  select 
friends.  The  Solicitor  General  and  ladies  of  rank  are  to 
be  with  us.  This  pic-nic  has  been  got  up  by  Mrs.  Gib- 
son, the  lady  of  the  Hon.  Mr.  Gibson,  M.  P. 

The  country  is  surpassingly  beautiful.  Lofty  trees 
hang  their  branches  like  arms  gracefully  by  their  sides, 
and  beneath  their  shade  the  balmy  air  comes  to  refresh 
and  cool  itself,  and  to  fan  the  fever  from  our  brows  while 
it  causes  the  social  flame  to  glow  more  brightly.  Here 
IS  a  glimpse  of  Eden,  with  no  fiery  guard  to  prohibit  us 
from  entering.  The  garden  is  well  laid  out ;  flowers 
perfume  the  air  ;  vines  clothe  the  trees  with  a  gi-een  robe 
sweeping  down  to  the  ground  ;  ponds,  rivulets,  springs 
and  fountains  glad  the  eye  ;  beautiful  fish,  the  goldfish 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS.  115 

the  king  of  them  all,  disport  themselves  in  the  waters; 
and  there  is  a  group  of  children  at  play,  their  merry  shout 
ringing  through  the  air,  and  awakening  in  the  breast 
thoughts  of  enchanted  land  and  of  fairies. 

Here  are  fruits  as  well  as  flowers ;  and  now  that  the 
latter  have  closed  their  eyes  and  let  fall  their  heads,  the 
former  are  in  demand ;  for  like  flowers  they  gratify  taste, 
and  to  this  they  add  the  gratification  of  appetite.     The 
evening  is  beautiful.     The  heaven  within  us  responds  to 
that  without,  which  is  calm  and  clear  and  radiant  with 
stars.     And  there  is  "  Nelly,"  as  they  call  her,  her  horns 
being  so  well  represented  in  the  moon  that  she  forms  a 
part  of  the  scene.     In  such  circumstances  we  are  lively 
companions,  and  conspire  to  make  one  another  happy. 

We  sailed  up  and  down  the  Thames-rowed,  pulled, 
and  sung.  When  we  had  got  some  distance  down  the 
river  it  began  to  rain.  0  mercy  .'-light  dresses,  sun- 
bonnets  and  summer  coats.  We  were  drenched  with 
rain,  and  before  we  could  get  to  the  house  we  were 
batlied  in  tears  wrung  out  by  laughter-such  a  source  of 
merriment  is  misfortune  ! 

My  friends  took  something  wet  inside  to  dry  the  out- 
side, and  we  soon  found  r  Mselves  in  the  house  again. 


116 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


where  we  were  made  comfortable  without  any  inward 
applications.  But  we  have  lost  sight  of  the  flowers,  and 
the  beautiful  iawne  with  the  groups  of  deer  grazing  upon 
them. 

Our  company  being  ready  we  returned  to  the  city. 
We  left  the  two  Misses  Marryatt,  daughters  of  the  famed 
Captain  Marryatt,  behind  us.  The  way  was  rainy  and 
wet  and  dark  as  pitch,  until  illumined  by  the  lights  of 
the  city.  Having  alighted,  entered,  seated  and  warmed 
ourselves,  we  were  prepared  for  adventures  in  dream- 
land. 

This  morning,  Thursday,  at  9}  o'clock,  was  the  time 
for  me  to  go  and  breakfast  with  Cobdcn.  I  found  him 
reading  papers  and  letters.  He  received  me  cordially, 
asked  me  about  the  country  and  people,  and  entertained 
me  with  much  interesting  conversation.  Though  I  had 
an  exalted  opinion  of  him  in  the  first  place,  he  stood 
much  higher  in  my  estimation  after  this  interview.  He 
has  a  nobler  appearance  and  more  urbanity  of  manners 
than  I  expected  to  find  in  him,  and  this  vas  without  a 
particle  of  affectation.  There  is  no  mushroom  appear- 
ance about  him,  but  a  solid  English  look  that  I  very 
much  admire.     We  sat  together  and  alone  at  his  table 


EUilOPEAN  OBSERVATIOXS. 


117 


I 


for  over  an  hour,  conversing  on  different  subjects.  He 
appeared  very  conversant  with  American  matters.  I 
will  give  here  a  description  of  him  by  a  hand  much  more 
competent  than  mine. 

"  Every  age  produces  its  own  great  men,  who  stand  in 
after  times   as  types   of  the  time  in  which  they  lived. 
Nothing  seems  so  easy  as  for  a  great  man  to  be  great, 
and  some  men  have  made  the  mistake  of  believing  that 
what  seems  so  easy  of  accomplishment  in  another,  could 
be  accomplished  by  themselves,  and  have  made  wretch- 
ed  failures  in  their  attempts  at  greatness.     Greatness 
must  come  naturally,  or  not  at  all.     Among  the  men  of 
our  own  times,  who  have  become  great  with  such  appar- 
ent ease  ^hat  it  would  seem  possible  for  any  man  to  be 
great  who  desired   it.  Richard  Cobden,  of  England,  is, 
perhaps,  the  most  remarkable  instance.     It  is  but  a  very 
few  years  smce  his  name  was  first  heard  on  this  side  of 
the  Atlantic  ;  in  fact,  he  travelled  in  this  country  exten- 
sively,  took  particular  note  of  our  morals  and  manners, 
yet  no  one  knew  that  he  was  in  any  way  more  entitled 
to  public  attention  than  any  other  stranger  who  visits  us 
for  business   or  pleasure.     But  if  Cobden  should  come 
here  now,  he  would  be  honored  with  an  ovation  wherever 


118 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


he  might  go.  He  is  neither  a  great  orator,  a  great 
scholar,  a  great  writer,  a  great  philosopher,  a  great  capi- 
talist, nor  a  great  artist ;  he  is  simply  a  good  business 
man,  with  great  common  sense,  of  humane  feelings,  and 
a  facile  talent  of  speaking  to  the  middle-men  of  his  coun- 
try on  subjects  that  appeal  directly  to  their  interests. 

"  Richard  Cobden  commenced  life  humbly  in  one  of  the 
manufacturing  towns  of  England,  and  in  time  became  a 
partner  in  an  extensive  calico-printing  establishment  in 
Manchester,  where  his  sign  may  still  be  seen,  we  are  in- 
formed, over  his  office-door.  When  the  popular  agita- 
tion on  the  subject  of  the  Corn  Laws  was  begun  in  Eng- 
land, Cobden  began  to  be  heard  of;  he  first  addressed 
his  own  townsmen,  and  as  his  reputation  spread,  he  was 
at  last  compelled  to  give  up,  or  neglect  his  business, 
while  he  engaged  in  advocating  the  opinions  of  the  Anti- 
Corn  Law  League.  His  popular  and  forcible  manner 
soon  gained  him  a  seat  in  Parliament,  where  he  distin- 
guished himself  by  his  sturdy  advocacy  of  other  reforma- 
tory measures  ;  but  it  was  in  addressing  popular  assem- 
blages of  the  trading  and  manufacturing  classes  that  he 
rendered  the  best  service  to  the  cause  he  espoused,  and 
at  last  succeeded  in  procuring  the  abolition  of  the  Corn- 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


119 


Laws.     The  English  people,  to  manifest  their  gratitude 
to  Cobden,  determined  to  raise   by  voluntary  subscription 
one  hundred  thousand  pounds  sterling,  nearly  half  a  mil- 
lion  of  dollars,    and   present   him.      Very   nearly  that 
amount  was  subscribed,  with  which  an  estate  was  pur- 
chased that  he  might  bo  able  to  devote  himself  entirely 
to  the  public  service.     He  is  now  member  of  Parliament 
for  the  West  Riding  of  York,  and  is  the  foremost  man  in 
all   the    radical   movements   of  the    day   for   reforming 
governmental  abuses  and  bettering  the  condition  of  thi 
people.      He  ably   sustains,  in  his  place  in  Parliament, 
every    Constitutional   measure    for    republicanizing    the 
Government    of  Great    Britain.     Without    any   of  the 
Bhowy  gifts  which  distinguished  such  Parliamentary  de- 
baters as  Sheridan,  Fox  and  Canning,   the  memory  of 
Cobden  is  likely  to  prove  sweeter  to   after  generations 
than   either  of  the  brilliant  orators  named,  because  it 
will  be  associated  with  acts  of  beneficence,  an  untainted 
moral  character,  and  a  reputation  for  homely  goodness 
which  the  masses  of  the  people  reverence  beyond  wit  or 
eloquence.     Most  reformers  are    men  of  one    idea,   but 
Cobden  heartily  joins  in  every  scheme  that  has  a  tenden- 
cy  to  elevate  the  people  and  undermine  the  foundations 


I 


I 


120 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


i  '^ 


IPS'   ■ 


of  aristocratic  privilege.  He  was  one  of  the  most  active 
members  of  the  Peace  Congress,  held  in  Paris  last  year, 
and  during  the  Parliamentary  recess,  was  constantly  en- 
gaged in  addressing  the  people  of  his  country  on  the  sub- 
ject of  Governmental  abuses.-  If.  Englishmen  enjoyed 
the  blessings  of  universal  suffrage,  as  it  is  enjoyed  by  the 
people  of  our  free  States,  the  influence  of  such  a  man  as 
Cobden  would  be  infinitely  greater  than  it  is  now.  In 
Parliament  he  addresses  the  privileged  classes,  who  are 
deaf  to  all  arguments  that  tend  to  the  destruction  of  the 
abuses  by  which  they  live  on  the  industry  of  the  people. 
"Cobden  is  below  the  middle  height,  and  of  spare 
habit;  one  of  those,  men,  in  short,  who  Sallust  tells  us 
are  to  be  feared  in  a  state.  Every' syllable  he  utters  is 
distinct  as  the  organs  of  speech  can  make  it.  He  speaks 
rather  slowly  at  first,  and  at  times  somewhat  hesitating- 
ly ;  but  this  is  not  because  he  does  not  know  what  to 
say,  but  because  he  is  thinking  how  he  shall  express  his 
meaning  with  the  very  utmost  amount  of  power.  He 
does  not  seek  fine  words,  but  strong  ones.  And  strength 
there  is  in  what  he  says,  and  in  his  manner  of  saying  it. 
His  sentences  are  short,  like  the  Roman  sword  ;  but  they 
are  forged  for  close  warfare  and  a  hard  struggle.     He 


I 


J 


I 


RfCHARD    COBDEisT. 


f, 


EUROPEAN   OBSKUVATIONS.  121 

leans  forward  .s  ho  speaks  ;  and  uUh  his  right  arm.  as 
he  dashes    it  downwards,  seems  to  heat  his  arouments 
mto    his    hearers'    minds.     Right   or   wrong,  lus  wliole 
heart  is  in  the  eanse.     Of  that  there  can  be  no  doubt. 
He  speaks  from  conviction  ;  and  with  an  earnestness  and 
intensity  sncli  as  one  rarely  hears.     There  is  nothing  ele- 
gant  in  his  language ;  it  is  clothed  with  no  ornament, 
but,  like   the  naked  limbs  of  the  gladiator,  it  trusts  en- 
tirely to  its  unaided  strength.     AH  he  proposes  is  Intel- 
%'ble  ;  all  his  reasoning  is  plain  and  clear.     He  knows 
"othing  of  theory,  but  deals  solely  with  facts.     He  hurls 
into  the  arena  beibre  you-at  your  very  feet,  as  it  were 
-some  fact,  some  massive  fact ;  and   he  tel]s  you  to  get 
nd   of  it_to  move  it  thence  if  you   can.     That  is  his 
mode  of  arguing.     There  is  such  erxergy  in  his  manner, 
such  hfe  and  energy  in  his  words,  that  you  recognize  at 
once  the  man  calculated  to  lead  in  great  popular  move- 
ments, and  conduct  them  to  a  favorable  termination." 

I  go  to  Lord  Brougham's  to  dine,  at  7  o'clock      C- 
riages  are  driving  up.     Here  is  Lord  _,  Marquis  of 
D-_,  and  Lord  F_.     This  is  Sec.  j^^t  return- 
ed from  a  foreign  court.     A  ..i.^r  set  of  Englishmen  I 
never  beheld.     Lord  Brougha.,  bnlh.ntly  dressed,  sat 

6 


I 


122 


EUROPEAN  OBSEIIVATIOXS. 


at  the  head  of  the  table.  Air.  Gambardllli,  the  cfilebra- 
ted  portrait  painter,  is  there  also.  lie  makes  a  co-n- 
pauion  of  me,  and  gives  me  many  proofs  of  friend.ship. 

Lord  B.,  in  whalover  aspect  you  view  him,  lias  some- 
thing very  remarkable  about  him.  There  is  nobody  like 
him.  In  conversation  he  is  fluent  and  pleasing;  two 
mortal  hours  and  a  half  ov  r  a  table.  Why,  if  we  had 
a  Yankee  here,  a  green  'un,  and  uc  saw  us  sitting  so 
long  at  table,  he  would  give  us  a  sermon  on  Time,  with 
a  nasal,  I  know  he  would. 

Lord  Brougham's  house  is  not  extravagantly  beautiful 
upon  the  outside,  but  the  interior  is  superb. 

JVext  day.  A  bright,  clear  morning  greeted  us.  The 
bustle  of  the  city  is  not  so  much  felt  in  the  west  end,  and 
by  the  advice  of  C.  F.  Dennentt,  of  Boston,  I  am  pleas- 
antly quartered  in  George  Street,  Hanover  Square.  At 
a  short  distance  is  Regent  Street  and  Park  :  west  of  mo 
is  Hyde  Park ;  on  the  south  is  St.  James'  Park,  and  on 
the  south  side  of  this  is  the  palace  of  the  Q,ueen. 

This  day  I  visit  the  Zoological  Cxardens,  to  see  the  Ele- 
phant, and  more  particularly  the  Hippopotamus,  who 
seems  to  be  the  pivot  of  motion  and  attraction  for  the 
Londoners  in  dog-days.     Dr.  W.  was  to  have  gone,  but 


f 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATION'S.  128 

we  have  missed  one  another.     The  ride  round  the  Park 
and  the  sight  of  the  trees  distributed  all  about  in  a  pie-' 
furesque  manner,  was  very  pleasant.     The  elej^ant  man- 
«.ons,  and  beautiCul  publie  edir.ees  are  fitting  eounterpar.s 
of  such  a  scene.     This  is  a  charming  country,  and  no 
wonder  an  Englishman  looks  at  you  as  though  he  felt 
five  mches  higher  than  any  man  he  ever  met  with 
Th,s  scenery  reminds  me  of  „ature'=  own  Parks  in  the 
west-those  vast  openings  called  Prairies  with  trees  seat- 
tared  here  and  there  either  singly  or  in  clusters. 

Here  is  a  world  of  study  and  re/lection.     AH  kinds  of 
annnals  from  all  parts  of  the  world.     A  mischievous  set 
of  the  monkey  race  represents  the  South,  and  the  white 
boar,  the   frozen   North-majestic   lions -fiereclooking 
panthers,  and  a  shabby  set  of  grisly  bears,  have  each 
thetr  rron-bound  quarters.     Camels  looking  like  a  man 
troubled  with  rheumatism  or  gouty  gait.     Here  is  the 
otter-How  many  recollections  of  youth  it  calls  up- 
when  I  used  to  hunt  .hem  in  the  woods  of  Canada. 
Molves,  foxes,  deer-all  are  here.     Among  the  birds  is 
the  Eagle,  with  his  sagclooking  head  which  he  seldom 
turns  either  to  the  right  or  to  the  left-I  seated  myself 
■n  a  ehatr  to  contemplate  him.     There  he  sat-the  men- 


I 


I 


124 


EUROPEAN"  0BSP:RVATI0NS. 


P 


!i       I  ! 


arch  of  the  skies, — how  humble  now  his  habitation. 
The  air  has  been  his  kingdom,  and  the  sun  the  goal  of 
his  flights.  But  here  you  are — what  sad  reverses  of  for- 
tune you  have  experienced  I  These  pale  faces  are  un- 
merciful to  you — never  mind,  here  i?  one  that  sympa- 
thizes with  you. 

Here  are  birds  of  every  description  and  variety  of  plu- 
mage— all  kinds  of  water-fowl,  and  reptiles. 

Here  is  the  Hippopotamus.  This  animal  and  the 
Prince  of  Naples,  who  is  now  in  this  country,  are  the 
two  greatest  notables  just  now  before  the  public,  but  the 
Prince  is,  by  far,  the  greatest  animal  of  the  two.  The 
one  strives  to  hide  his  deformity  or  deficiency  of  mind 
under  sparkling  jewels  ; — the  other  stands  majestically  in 
his  naked,  glistening  skin.  K  my  friends  in  America 
ask  me  how  this  animal  looks,  what  shall  I  tell  them  ? 
What  can  I  compare  him  to  ?  He  is  not  like  a  beaver, 
though  he  lives  sometimes  in  the  water.  He  is  not  a 
moose,  though  he  stalks  about  with  the  same  air  of  dig- 
nity. He  is  not  a  buffalo,  though  like  him  he  has  a  hoof. 
I  have  it — I  shall  tell  my  people  that  the  hippopotamus 
looks  something  like  a  fat,  shaved  Bear.  They  must 
guess  the  rest,  or  else  be  content  to  remain  ignorant.     See 


'M. 


EUROPEAN  OUSERVATIONS. 


125 


if  there  is  not  some  truth  in  my  comparisou-short  clumsy 
legs-heavy  creases  in  fblds  about  his  heels-round  plump 
bo<ly_no  hair— neck  strong-ears  short— head  large- 
mouth,  0  how  big  !  what  in  other  animals  is  called  a 
tail,  perhaps  three  and  a  half  inches  long,  and  his  color 
has  the  appearance  of  a  coating  of  black  lead,  with  the 
addition,  perhaps,  of  some  soot  from  the  chimney-baok. 

There  is  un  elephant  walking  off  with  half-a-dozen 
children  on  his  back.  His  legs  look  like  stumps,  yet  on 
he  moves  with  apparent  ease.  Clumsy  as  they  are.  they 
arc  of  great  use  to  him— and  so  is  his  long  proboscis.  He 
will  do  almost  anything  with  it.  from  hunting  nuts  in 
your  pocket,  to  killing  a  man.  Here  is  an  apple.  His 
nose  takes  hold  of  it  and  his  nose  puts  it  into  his  mouth— 
and  the  apple  is  gone. 

I  might  linger  here  with  profit  and  pleasure  all  day, 
yes-several  days-but  other  engagements  call  me,  and 
I  must  go, 

I  find  abundance  of  cards  on  my  table.  0  fie,  fie : 
these  English  will  spoil  me.  I  have  engaged  myself  for 
dinner  every  day  this  week.  My  note-book  runs  thus  for 
the  week : 

Sabbath   morning— go   to   Mr.  Gambardilli.      Even- 


I 


.M 


II 

till 


126 


EUKOPEAN   0I3SEIIVATI0NS. 


ing— at    Under   Secretary's  house,  Dr.  Wiseman   to  be 

there.     Monday  evening—Tea    at    Mr.   S ,  New 

Broad  street.  Tuesday-Dine  at  E.  Saunders',  George 
Street— a  celebrated  Dentist.  Wednesday— Hampton 
Court,  with  Mrs.  Gibson's  Pic-nic  party.  Thursday.  Au- 
gust 8th— To  Breakfast  with  R.  Cobden,  at  9  1-2  o'clock. 
Evening—Dine  at  Lord  Brougham's.  Friday— Dine 
with  Lady  Franklin  and  her  brother,  Sir  Simpkinson, 
21  Bedford  Square. 

I  have  now  been  in  London  one  week,  and  have  as 
many  more  engagements  for  the  next.  If  I  were  to  go 
on  in  this  way  three  or  four  weeks.  I  think  I  should  be 
nearly  dead  with  fatigue. 


4." 

W    ,1 


I     i 


it 


r 


Ml 


I  if 


I  U' 


CHAPTEE  XII. 


AXOTPIER   VISIT  TO   LIVERPOOL. 

My  engagements  take  me  back  to  Liverpool  for  a  few 
days,  and  I  must  defer  the  rest  of  my  sight-seeing  in  Lon- 
don till  my  return. 

Tuesday.  I  leave  the  city  in  company,  among  others, 
of  a  gentleman  who  seemed  to  have  a  very  unfavorable 
opinion  of  America  and  Americans— having  got  most  of 
his  information  from  M-riters  of  the  Trollope  and  Dickens' 
school,  of  which  there  are  plenty.  When  he  became  too 
personal,  I  dropped  the  conversation  and  took  refuge  in 
reading. 

Wednesday.  I  am  to  deliver  a  lecture  before  the 
Mechanics'  Institute  on  the  Religious  belief  of  the  In- 
dians. Afterwards— another  on  the  superstitions  of  the 
Indians  and  their  Legends— and  another  on  the  peculiar- 
ities of  the  North  American  Indians,  with  their  probable 


I 


« 


hi 


128 


EUROPEAX   OBSERVATIONS. 


Origin,  and  oilier  subjects  connected  with  the  history  of 
my  people  in  America.     These  subjects  I  intend  to  lay 
before  the  British  public,  both  in  England  and  Scotland. 
I  have  sent  word  that   I  am  going  to  the  Concert  of 
Jenny  Lind,  after  the  Lecture,  though  there   is  no  such 
thing  as  buying  a  ticket— but  I   have  taken  it  into  my 
head  that  I  will  hear  her.     For  several  days  there  has 
been  great  excitement  in  Liverpool   about  her  singing. 
Even  standing  room  for  this  concert  is  said  to  have  been 
taken  long  ago.     I  have  seen  some  ladies  and  gentlemen 
who  came  from  Ireland  for  the  sole  purpose  of  hearing 
her,  and  others  from  London. 

It  is  now  7  o'clock,  and  I  must  hie  to  my  Lecture.  I 
appear  in  ray  Indian  costume.  To  ray  surprise  I  find  a 
crowded  house,  and  am  received  with  a  kind  greeting  by 
my  audience. 

Here  follows  the  Lecture  I  delivered  : 

Ladies  and  Gentlemen.— My  subject  for  this  evening's 
lecture  is,  superstition  and  legends  of  the  North  American 
Indians.  The  East  is  universally  allowed  by  all  pale-face 
writers  to  have  been  the  birthplace  and  nursery  of  super- 
stition, and  as  I  am  fully  convinced  our  fathers  originated 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS.  129 

from  eastern  tribes,  to  them  we  owe  the  great  partiality 
we  have  invariably  displayed  for  legendary  lore  and  su- 
perstitious recitals.     The  entire  traditions  of  our  earliest 
times,    hand   down   to   us   but  imaginative  fables  and 
myths  of  men  and   supernatural  creatures,  changes  and 
axtraordinary  freaks  in  the  elements,  all  of  which  are 
most  strongly  tinctured  with  the  ancient  Persian  philos- 
ophy.     We  do  not  pretend  to  establish  dates,  nor  have 
we  any  astronomical  data,  to  confirm  the  exact  periods 
but  we  all  have  a  fairy-land  location  for  the  first  man' 
and  woman  which  we  admit  a  great  deluge  destroyed. 
The  cause  we  assign  for  this  event  grew  out  of  the  fol- 
lowing tradition  which  I  will  narrate.     The  name  of  the 
hero  was  Na-nah-boo-shoo.      In  the  latter  days  of  the 
Old  World  mankind  were  numerous,  and  there  likewise 
were  giants  and  strange  half-god  monsters  who  annoyed 
mankind  very  much,  the  animals,  some  of  which  were 
huge  and  capable  of  devouring  a  whole  forest  tree  at  a 
meal,  crunching  its  stem  and  branches  with  the  ease  that 
a  horse  mastictos  his  common  food,  ranged  everywhere, 
auite  as  troubled  were  the  waters  as  the  dry  land  from 
the  stupendous  sizes  of  its  creatures.    In  those  days  bull- 
frogs were  seen  at  the  least  forty  feet  n.  bulk,  sittmg  on 

6* 


I 


130 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


the  banks  of  rivers,  shaldii-r  the  air  by  their  croakings, 
like  the  rumbling  and  exploding  sounds  of  heavy  thun- 
der.    The  races  of  men  were  then  much   larger    than 
they  now  are,  and  fitted  with  more  expansive  vitals  than 
those  we  now  know  of  the  greatest  size— and  human  life 
was  in  proportion  to  its  dimensions,  reaching  even  the 
return  of  a  thousand  seasons.     A  very  dexterous  tribe  of 
hunters  were  in  pursuit  of  some  unwieldy  river  animals, 
shooting  their  arrows  indiscriminately  amongst  a   herd 
who  were  swimming  across  a  river,  when  it  appears  that 
their  flight  of  missiles  exceeded  their  intentions  and   ac- 
cidentally   wounded  a   water-god,  whose  cries  brought 
speedily  about  him  his  whole  tribe.     They  in  revenge  de- 
stroyed nearly  all  the  hunters  by  hurling  huge  rocks  upon 
them,  and  as  they  did  not  succeed  in  the  destruction  of 
the  whole   tribe,   they   determiued    to  drown  man'  uid. 
I  must  now  tell  you  that  all  the  human  family  were  red 
men  then.     As  the  first  man  Avas  made  out  of  red  earth 
his  descendants  retained  his  complexion.    Well  was  it  for 
some  of  the  tribe  to  have  escaped,  for  they  scarcely  had 
reached    tfce    mountains   near    before    they    beheld    the 
waters  gushing  up  from  every  direction  in  the  lowlands, 
thousands  of  concealed  springs  became  great  fountains. 


EUEOPEjIX  observations.  131 

playing  at  least  a  thousand  feet  high  and  delugin.  all 
around.     Only  one  man  escaped  with  his  wife,  and  they 
having  hastily  constmeted  a  raft,  took  with  them  a  few' 
of  the  smaller  animals,  sueh  as  w-e  now  have  on  it 
leaving  the  larger  ones  to  be,  as  the  red  man  thought' 
drowned.     Tl>e  waters  rose  higher  and  higher,  untirthj 
tops  of  all   the  loftiest  mountains  were  eompletely  cov- 
ered.     For  weeks  they   floated  everywhere,    driven    by 
fearful  gusts  of  wind,  and  e..posed  to  the  most  terrific 
aefon  of  rain  and  hail.     When  this  red  man,  Na-nah- 
boo.shoo,  eaded  out  i„  despair  to  the  Great  Spirit  and 
begged  for  suceor.  Manitou  heard  him  and  put  a  stop  to 
the  great  tempests.     After  some  days  the  red  man,  not 
»eemg  any  appearances  of  land,  sent  a  beaver  to  dive 
down  in  the  waters  and  proenre  him  some  of  the  earth 
from  below,  should  any  be  found.     The  beaver  went  and 
after  a  considerable  time  had  elapsed  returned  in  a  most 
exhausted  condition,  without  being  able  ,o  find  the  earth 

anddied  almost  as  soon  as  ho  had  got  upon  the  rati' 

Another  was  then  sent,  bnt  it  resulted  in  the  same  ill 
success,  and  he  perished  from  exhaustion.  At  last  a  musk- 
rat  was  despatched  upon  the  mission,  and  after  a  very 
long  tm,e,  insomuch  that  the  red  man  thought  he  had  per 


132 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


;  M 


III' 


ished,  his  little  form  was  seen  extended  upon  his  back  in 
the  last  gasps  of  life,  holding  up  one  of  his  small  paws. 
He  was  eagerly  rescued  from  the  water  and  revived  with 
care,  when  he  opened  his  paw  and  disclosed  that  it  con- 
tained a  very  small  piece  of  the  muddy  bottom.  This 
the  red  man  dried  carefully,  and  having  reduced  it  to  a 
powder  held  it  in  the  palm  of  his  hand,  and  offering  it 
up  with  a  prayer  to  Manitou,  blew  it  to  the  four  quarters 
of  the  watery  waste.  No  sooner  was  this  done  than  the 
tops  of  the  mountains  and  the  upper  branches  of  their 
trees  began  to  appear,  and  the  M'aters  rushed  down 
through  its  thousands  of  subterraneous  channels,  and  off 
the  land  to  the  sea,  and  the  earth  was  left  dry.  From 
this  red  man  and  his  wife  the  world  was  again  re- 
peopled,  but  with  the  addition  of  two  other  colors, — the 
pale  faces  and  the  black  men.  From  the  rapidity  with 
which  the  world  was  re-peopled  they  found  i+.  necessary 
to  separate  and  so  branched  oiF,  all  over  the  world,  to 
find  homes.  The  red  men  kept  to  themselves  and  found 
in  this  country  their  proper  residence.  The  Manitou,  it 
seems,  thought  proper  to  allow  some  of  the  giants  and 
huge  animals  to  escape  the  effects  of  the  flood.  It  was 
ascertained  that  some  of  them  found  shelter  in  the  deep 


(ii. 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS.  I33 

cave,  of  that  u™  whieh  ,,,,,,,  ,,„^„,^^^^_  ^^^  ^^.^^ 
they   had   so  seoured   that  no  Mater  penetrated.    Bein. 
friendly  with  the  water-gods,  they  were  preserved  par- 
'-"y  by  their   help  and   food  supplied  them.      These 
creatures  too  beeamo  numerous    and  harassed  the    red 
men,  between  whom  long  wars  ensued.    The  mastodon  and 
the  b,g  em  destroyed  the  lives  of  many  persons.     A  great 
herned  serpent  next  appeared,  who,  by  means  of  his 
P-onous  breath,  produeed  diseases,  and  eaused  the  death 
«f-ny,  but  the  Mani.ou  killed  him  with  thunderbolts. 
Another  ealamity  was  a  blazing  star  which  fell  in  the 
mnlst  of  the  red  men  and  destroyed  many  people.    This 
last  event  eaused  them  to  separate  and  beeome  distinct 
tnbes,  who  soon  fell  into  disputes  and  wars  amon.  them- 
selves, which  they  pursued  through  a  long  period,  until 
they  utterly  destroyed  each  other's  nationality,  and  so  re- 
duced their  numbers  that  their  lands  were  overrun  by 
w,ld  beasts.     Those  that  were  left  went  to  a  mountain 
^vhere  the  Great  Spirit  preserved  them.     From  the  top 
ef  th,s  mountain  they  could  behold  the  sun  rise  to  see  him 
Bet.    They  were  told  that  it  was  heated  in  great  fires  he- 
lew  and  rose  sparkling  from  them  in  the  morning,  cooled 
off  throughout  the  day,  and  went  down  at  night  to  be  re- 


I 


^m^ 


134 


EUROrEAN   OBSERVATIOXS. 


1     ( 


I    i 


heated  for  the  next  day's  use  by  the  Great  Manitou. 
They  all  spoke  the  same  language  then  and  resolved 
amongst  themselves  to  preserve  the  chain  of  alliance  in 
such  a  manner,  that  no  time  should  be  able  to  extinguish 
them  as  one  people.  They  collected  together  in  the  West, 
and  divided  the  country  into  districts,  and  these  were  al- 
lotted to  Chiefs  and  Leaders,  during  the  war  with  the 
prc-occupying  natives,  and  their  descendants  are  now  the 
various  nations  of  red  men. 

No  people  in  the  world  have  ever,  probably,  so  com- 
pletely mingled  up  their  early  history  in  fictions  and 
allegories,  types  and  symbols,  as  the  red  men  of  this  con- 
tinent. Making  but  little  difference  between  th  sym- 
bolic and  the  hostorical,  they  have  left  very  little  distinc- 
tion to  mark  the  true  from  the  false.  Our  notions  of  a 
Deity,  founded,  apparently,  upon  some  original  truth,  is 
so  subtile,  and  divisible,  and  establish  such  a  confused 
admixture  of  spirit  and  matter  in  every  shape,  that  popu- 
lar belief  seems  to  have  entirely  confounded  the  possible 
with  the  impossible,  and  the  natural  with  the  super- 
natural, 

"  'Tis  a  history 
Handed  from  ages  down ;  a  nurse's  tale, 
Which  cluldi-eu,  open-ey'd  and  mouth'd,  devour ; 


!•      !i 


I 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 

And  tt„,,  a,  g.„„„|„„,  .^^^^^^^  ^ 
we  learn  it  and  believe." 


185 


Ao..o„  so  far  a,  respecs  cause  and  effect,  takes  the 
-.Je.t  range,  thtough  tl„s  agency  of  ,„„a  or  eviU„fl„. 

en  s,  by  „en,  beasts,  devils,  or  gods.  The  red  „an  be- 
holU.ng.o„e  things  mysterious  and  wonderful,  believe, 
a"  are  s.™lar,   and  without  the  means  of  navigating 

h^reason,>..atfancyWi,lonaw.,aseaof.a™ing 
ad  dashing  Pagination.     He  beholds  a  spirit  in  every 

phenomenon,  and  fears  a  wizard  or  witch  in  every  en! 

J.     H.s  Wild  behefinthemerea.es  fears  and  alarms, 
and  terror  of  the  supernatural  prompts  him  wherever  ha 

Socs  to  resort  to  amulet  and  charm,  however  ridiculous  in 
themselves,  for  preservation.     A  beast,  or  a  bird,  a  man 

g°d.  or  devil,  a  stone.  se,en,  or  a  wi.ard,  a  wind' 

->d.  or  ray  oflight  are  so  many  causes  of  action' 

^Watmg  along  the  mysterious  Chain  connecting  earth 

n..^es  as  ..were  by  telegraphic  lines,  along  Which  life 

:  'T"'  "^'  "'  ""^  ■"-»'  "o  the  reward  or  penaltyof 
h.s  attention,  or  disregard. 

Wo  were,  so  say  the  ancient  traditions,  long  time  a^o 

-s.dreadf„l,ya„n„yedhythe  fearful  visit  of  the  Flyi,; 


I 


136 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


heads.     These  heads  were  enveloped  in  a  beard  and  hair 
flaminj?  like  fire  ;  they  were  of  monstrous  size,  and   shot 
through  the  air  with  the  velocity  of  lightning.     Human 
power  was  not  adequate  to  cope  with  them.     Our  priests 
pronounced  them  an  emanation  of  some  mysterious  influ- 
ence,  and  it  remained  with  the  priests  alone,  to  exorcise 
them  by  their  arts.     Drum,  rattle,  and  incantation,  were 
considered  of  more  avail  than  arrow  or  club.  One  evening, 
after  they  had  been  plagued  a  long  time  with  this  terriHc 
visitation,  the  Flying  head  came  to  the  door  of  a  lodge  oc- 
cupied by  a  single  female  and  her  dog.     She  was  sitting 
composedly  before  the  fire  roasting  acorns,  which,  as  they 
became  done,  she  deliberately  took  from  the  fire  and  eat. 
Amazement  seized  the  Flying  head,  who  put  out  two 
huge    black  paws,   from  beneath   his   streaming  beard. 
Supposing  the   woman  to  be   eating  live  coals  he  with- 
drew, and  from  that  time  he  came  no  more  among  them. 
The  stonish  Giants  then  invaded  us.    They  were  a  power- 
ful tribe  from  the  wilderness,  tall,  fierce,  and  hostile,  and 
resistance  to  them  was  vain.     They  defeated  and  over- 
came an  army  which  was  sent  out  again.t  them,  and  put 
the  whole  country  in  fear.     These  Giants  were  not  only 
of  prodigious  strength,  but  they  were  cannibals,  devour- 


EUROPEAN   OliSERVATIOXS.  I37 

ing  men,   women,  and  children   in   their    inroads.     Our 
tradition  tells  us  that  these  monsters  eame  from  the  east 
side   of  the  Mississippi,   that  existing  in  forests  withont 
habitations,   they  forgot  the  rules  of  humanity  ;  and  be- 
gan at  first  to  eat  raw  flesh,  and  next  men.     They  prac- 
tised rolling  themselves  in  the  sand,  and  by  this  means 
their  bodies  were  covered  with  hard  ski..,  so  that  our  ar- 
rows only  rattled  against    their   tough    hides,    and    fell 
harmless  at  their  feet.     Our  ancestors  fir.ding  the,  could 
"ot  injure  or  dismay  them  fled  and   hid  in  caves  and 
glens,   and  were    entirely  subdued  by  these  fierce  inva- 
ders for  many  winters  (or  years).     At  length  the  great 
Spirit  visited  his  people,  and  finding  them  in  such  dis- 
tress  He  determined  to  grant  them  relief,  and  rid  them 
entirely    of   these   barbarous   invaders.     To   accomplish 
this  he  put  on  the  form  of  one  of  them,  and  brandishing 
a  heavy  club  led  them  on  under  the  pretence  of  finding 
the  Mastodon.     When  they  got  near  the  resort  of  these 
huge  animals,  night  coming  on,  he  bid  them  lie  down  in 
a  hollow,  telling  them  that  he  would  make  the  attack  at 
daybreak.       But    at   daybreak,    he    ascended    a   height, 
and  overwhelmed  them  with  a  vast  mass  of  rocks.     OnJ 
only  escaped,  and  he  fled  towards  the  north.     The  huge 


I 


138 


KL'HOI'KAN    OnSKIlVATIONS. 


«"nu8  of  the   rf«t  oi.r  traditions  tell   „»  aro  to  bo  soon 
yi'l,  as  the  frooil  Spirit  killed  (heiu. 

The   lu'liof  ii,    Witchoralt   prevailed    extensively  ;    its 
edects  up„u  iho  red  man's  prosperity  an.l  population,  ao- 
cordin^r  to  our  traditions,  were  at  limes  appallinjr.     The 
theory  of  tl...  he  lief  was  this.     The  witches  and  wizards 
constituted  a  secret  association,  and  met  at  nijrht  to  pro- 
medifafe  misehief,  and  were  bound  amonf?  themselves  to 
iuviolablo  secrecy.     They  had  power  to  turn  themselves 
into  foxes  ..r  wolves,  and  run  swill,  emitlin-  lUishcs  of 
lijiht.      They  could  also  transform  themselves  into  a  tur- 
key or  hifr  owl,  and   fly  veiy  last.      If  detected,  or  hotly 
pursued,  they  could  chanrje  themselves   into  a  stone  or 
rotten  lo-.     They  sought  carefully  to  procure  the  venom 
of  snakes   or    poisonous  roots   to   elFect    their  purposes. 
They  could  blow  hairs  or  worms   into  a  person.     Once 
ui)ou  a  time,  say  our  traditions,  there  lived  a  red  man 
near  a  populous  villajre,  who  in  steppin-  out  of  his  lodge, 
to  his  great  surprise,  immediately  sunk  info  the  earth,  and 
found  himself  in  a  large  room,  surrounded  by  three  hun- 
dred witches  and  wizards,     ^cxt  morning  he  went  to 
the  council  and  told  the  chiefs  of  this  extraordinary  oc- 
currence.    They  asked  him  if  he  could  identify  the  per- 


liViiOViUS   OlISKIa-AT.O.NS.  I39 

«™»-     He. „„  ho  „„„,„.     T.K.y  „H.„  ,„.,.,„„„„„,^,„  ,  .^ 

:;;™"":"'""°''"'— "-'■". "i..u,,„„t ,.„ 

';■'«  "■'-  '-k  w„  .„  .„,„  „„,  „,j.  |^_.^^„,_^  ^^^^ 

The.ld„„,„„prevaWa,„„,„anther.d„™.     And  as 

■«t.as,..,.,„„e,.a„a,„,a,„„,„.hoO.,eida,tw„re. 
'""'::  '""''"'  '"'  ''■     T'-ir  oxocu.i„„„  .a.  .he  notori- 

°r       :  """'  "''°  "^""■^''  '"  "-  --  °'-  ".o  palo  ,ace, 
about  .„„It„v„„.Uo„.    He  „„.„,,,a  u.  ,„.„„  aec„.di„,  .„ 

a  pnor  decro.  of  the  counoil,  a„d  struck  thorn  down 
w.th  his  tomahawk.  Oue  was  kilied  i„  the  ,od,e,  the 
Other  near  the  lodge  door. 

Wehav„a,reatah„„da„ceofstoriesi„r„ha,;on.„ 
atnes,  or  little  hei„,s,  so  stuall  as  scarcely  to  he  visihla 
.ut  to  sharp-seeiu,  eyes.     They  dwell  evetywhere.  and 
flowers  are  presumed  to  shelter  ,ar,„  parties  of  the™  in 
a  ™u  shower.     The  red  n,an  as  he  rec,i.,es  under  the 

^l-le  o,  the   forests,  faueies  they  are  ahout  hi™  ;  he  de- 

ectsthetrtiuy  voices  in  the  i„seet.h„™,  and  with  half. 
*sed  eye  he  hehelds  the.n  spor.in,  hy  .Housands  on  a 


f 


H 


140 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


sun-ray.     In  the  evening  they  are  seen  and  heard,  and 
sometimes  revel  avi^ay  the  whole  night. 

"  And  now  they  throng  the  moonlight  glade, 
Above — below — on  every  side, 
Their  little  minim  forms  arrayed 
In  all  the  tricksy  pomp  of  fairy  pride  !" 

They  are  friendly  or  adverse  to  him,  as  he  deserves 
they  should  be,  and  great  care  is  taken  by  him  not  to  of- 
fend them.  Young  Indian  girls  are  often  surprised  by 
them  and  led  to  their  beautiful  abodes  and  shown  the 
wonders  of  Fairy  land.  They  overhear  lovers  or  discon- 
solate ones,  and  aid  them  as  was  the  case  with  the  Oji- 
baw  maid  w  lO  loved  the  Moon.  How  many  years  ago 
tradition  does  not  inform  us,  but  contents  itsrlf  with 
handing  down  to  us  the  fact  that  on  the  south-east  end  of 
lake  Superior  lived  an  old  Sachem  and  his  wife  who  had 
an  only  daughter,  whose  beauty  was  of  so  astonishing  an 
order,  that  her  fame  spread  all  through  the  Indian  na- 
tions, and  many  old  chiefs  sought  her  father's  lodge  to  ob- 
tain the  hand  of  his  child  for  their  sons.  The  young 
men  came  in  numbers  to  woo  her,  but  both  the  old  men's 
petition,  and  young  ones,  solicitations  were  alike  displeas- 
ing to  the  young  Indian  maid,  who  desired  to  live  single 
and   remain   with   her  parents.     Many  were   the   rich 


'ft 


f 


EUnOPEAN  0BSEEVATI0N3.  I41 

offer,  and  inducements  made  by  the  warrior,  around  ,0 
obtain   her.     Some  went  on  dangerous  expeditions  to 
gam  a  reputation  that  she  would  admire-but  that  pro- 
dueed    no    alteration   in  her  mind-she  was  inflexible. 
Three  of  the  finest  young  warriors  of  her  people  eon- 
te..ded  for  her,   they   first  went  off  a  war  seout  and 
brought  her  sealps.   she   heeded   them  not ;  they  then 
proeured  her  the  most  superb  offerings  of  rich  furs  and 
feathe,^,  it  was  useless,  she  would  not  even  admire  them. 
They  then  agreed  to  try  their  speed  before  her,  if  she 
would  let  the  victor  be  her  companion  :  she  would  net 
eonsent-they  were   hopeless.      And   soo.     the    report 
spread  far  and  wide  of  her  dangerous  beauty,  and  the 
^.de  of  the  Lake  upon  which  she  resided,  became  an 
avo,ded  spot,  lest  any  of  the  young  braves  should   see 
her,  and  lose  their  peace  of  mind  forever  in  love,  hope- 
less,  hapless   love !     During  a  whole  winter,   no  one 
came  near  the  lodge  of  her  father :  there  she  remained 
secluded  with  her  parents,  pondering  over  the  heaps  of 
treasure  that  a  host  of  refused  lovers  had  given  her,  and 
endeavoring  to  recall  the  best  and  finest-looking  amongst 
them.     A  fairy  who  had  watched  this  iaslidious  (dir  one 
cast  a  charm  upon  her,  which  immediately  produced  the' 


142 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


Il 


contrary  effect  of  her  former  indifference,  and  so  powerful 
was  it,  that  it  seems  she  was  to  fall  in  love  with  the  first 
object  she  should  see  outside  of  her  father's  lodge.  And 
it  being  night,  the  first  sight  that  she  saw  was  the  moon, 
which  in  consequence  of  the  fairy's  spell  appeared  to  her 
as  the  face  of  a  most  enchanting  young  brave.  Jiae 
sighed  and  going  into  the  lodge  shut  the  door,  and  went 
to  rest,  but  could  not  sleep,  she  was  so  tormented  by  the 
love  she  bore  the  moon.  Early  the  next  morning  she 
took  a  pail  and  went  to  a  near  spring  for  water,  but  for- 
got what  she  intended  to  do,  and  strolled  on  some  dis- 
tance along  the  shores  of  the  lake,  lost  in  admiration  of 

• 
the   moon's  face.     It  was  the  commencement  of  spring, 

and  the  snows  had  all  melted  away,  leaving  the  young 
and  tender  grass  and  early  flowers  in  its  stead.  The 
birds  were  about  buildinL:  their  nests,  and  the  air  was 
full  of  sweetness  and  pleasant  sounds.  She  looked 
sadly  around  her,  and  she  saw  that  every  living  thing 
appeared  to  have  a  mate.  The  birds  went  two  and  two, 
the  animals  the  same,  and  even  the  tiny  delicate  flowers 
appeared  to  grow  up  side  by  side  in  love  and  reMance 
upon  each  other.  Lost  in  this  meditative  mood  the  day 
imperceptibly  to  her  declined,  and  the  full  moon  sprang 


EUEOPEAN  OBSERVATIONS.  I43 

up.  to  which  she   turned  her  looks  in  desperate  emotion 
of  tenderness  and  love,  as  she  gazed,  it  seemed  to  near 
her,  and  feeling  that  she  was  lifted  up  from  the  earth  at 
the  same  time-she  saw  that  she  was  hastening  to  her 
lover.      However,  let  it  be  as  it  may,  says  the  tradition, 
earth   never   held  her  more.     And  to  this  day  as  the 
Ojibwa  braves  and  damsels  behold  the  shadows  upon  the 
moon's  faee.   they  imagine  they  perceive  the  outline  of 
the  fair  young  Indian  maid  and  her  pail. 

Our  traditions  inform  us  of  a  huge  musquito  which  in- 
fasted  the  lake  shores,  and  destroyed  many  people.  This 
terrible  creature  Manitou  destroyed,  and  from  his  body 
sprang  the  present  insect  of  that  name.  His  dimensions 
were  so  great  that  he  darkened  the  country  he  was  flying 
over. 

With  tales  and  traditions  of  such  a  kind  the  Indian 
begmles  the  winter,   and  the  circle  around  the   lodge- 
fire  receives  a  fresh  charm  from  the  horrors  and  wondlr- 
ful  narrations    of  its  inmates.      These  stories  increase 
the  estimation  of  home  and  its  safety,  for  the  strong  dash 
of  oriental  predilection  fbr  the  marvellous  prevails  even 
over  the  better  judgment  of  the  red  man-he  loves  to 
hear  of  dangers,  when  he  cannot  find  them  to  endure  or 


I 


144 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


^! 


dare.  The  spirit  of  wandering  adventure  and  love  of  peril 
forms  a  striking  feature  in  his  own  composition. 

"  Their  dangers  and  delights  are  near  allies ; 
From  the  same  stem  the  rose  and  prickle  rise." 

The  forest  paths  are  full  of  fancy's  pictures.  Its  avenues 
are  enchanted  passages,  and  the  whole  wood  a  magnifi- 
cently adorned  palace  wherein  the  red  man's  heart  re- 
joices.     The  songs  of  its  gaudy-colored  birds  are  rare 
music,  and  the  dash  of  a  waterfall  nature's  accompani- 
ment to  the  general  melody.     Here  his  poetic  mind  re- 
ceives its  impulses,  which  the  solitudes  of  the  deep  woods 
seem  to  nurse   and  cherish.     At  early  morn   the  dew- 
sprinkled  leaves  and  flowers  exhale  delightful  odors.     At 
noon  when  all  around  is  parched,  cool  breezes  seem  to 
assemble  in  the  woods  for  shelter  from   the  heat.     At 
evening's    pensive    hour   the    musical   notes   of  insects 
awaken,  and  the  night-flowers  pour  out  the  fragrance  of 
their  incense — 

"  Like  sweet  thoughts  that  come 
Wing'd  from  the  maiden's  fancy,  and  fly  off 
In  music  to  the  skies,  and  then  are  lost; 
These  ever-streaming  odors  seek  the  sun 
And  fade  in  the  light  he  scatters." 

It  -vould  fill  folios  to  recount  the  many  superstitions 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS.  14g 

in  common  report  among  the  red  men,  many  of  whom  to 
tins  day  truly  believe  the  legends. 

In  one  of  the  small  bays  which  indent  Lake  Superior 
a  long  time  ago,  said  an  old  ehief  "I  have  been  told 
there  was  a  small  pond,  or  rather  lake,  whieh  oceupied 
about  some  600  yards  of  space,  being  „f  ,„  „,,i  f„^ 
About  ,ts  margin  the  wild  animals  frequented  and  hither 
many  came  to  drink-its  wa.e„  were  sweet  and  whole- 
some,  and  the  color  of  it  was  a  deep  blue.  A  great  many 
attempts  had  been  made  to  ascertain  its  depth,  but  so 
great  had  been  the  quantity  of  line  used  to  no  purpose,  it 
™s  considered  by  us  all  as  having  no  bottom.     In  times 
past  there  was  an  account  of  its  I  =ing  the  ab«le  of  a  very 
ternfic  and  formidable  creature,  which  had  been  repeat- 
edly by  straggling  hunters,  and  by  one  of  these  I  was 
told  about  it.  He  states  that  being  on  a  scout  in  search  of 
buffalo,  he  chose  to  watch  near  this  place  presuming  the 
buffalo  would  come  here  to  drink  about  noon-he  had 
h.d  himself  behind  a  small  lump  covered   with  thick 
bushes,  through  which  he  commanded  a  fair  view  of  the 
pond.    Sometime  (after  he  had  waited)  he  observed  the 
surface  of  the  pond  very  much  agitated,  and  the  water 
appeared  to  boil  up  in  a  perfect  foam  ;  he  became  uneasy 


rw 


II  Hill!:         I      I  ; 


146 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


3  ' 


to  know  the  cause,  and  keeping  his  eyes  fixed  on  the 
waters,  he  soon  perceived  the  form  of  a  huge  beast  rising 
from  the  centre  of  the  lake,  which  swam  towards  the 
shore  on  the  same  side  with  himself     In  the  meanwhile 
fear  overpowered  him,  and  he  was  unable  to  leave  his 
hiding-place  from  its  effects — he  saw  that  this  animal 
was  ten  times  the  size  of  a  buffalo,  although  its  head 
was  shaped  like  that  beast  and  had  huge  horns  on  it.  Its 
body  was  very  unwieldy,  and  its  feet  were  like  the  bear, 
armed  with  monstrous  claws.  It  passed  him  and  rushed 
off  into  the  woods,  when  he  heard  a  great  outcry  of  buffalo, 
some  of  whom  passed  his  hiding-place  in  great  terror  and 
speed.     He  continued  to  watch  for  the  great  beast's  re- 
turn, which  after  a  brief  space  took  place.     The  monster 
was  bloody,  and  had  half  a  buffalo  in  its  mouth.  It  came 
and  laid  down  on  th",  bank  of  the  little  lake  and  finished 
its  meal  of  raw  meat,  then  sunning  itself  for  an  hour,  it 
plunged  into  the  water  and  began  to  descend,  causing  the 
same  agitation  to  ensue  that  had  characterized  its  first 
coming.     He  saw  the  impress  of  the  beast's   shape  on 
the    bank,   where    it    had  reclined,   and  the  marks  its 
claws  had  made  in  tearing  the  buffalo.     Others  came 
ftnd  saw  it.     And  this  is  believed  to  refer  to  the  animals' 


EUROPEAN"  OBSKRVATIONS.  I47 

old  bone,  a,  f„„„d  in  .he  valleys  of  the  Wert  .ea.tered 
throughout  the  country. 

Ladies  and  ge„;Ieme„.-I  have  new  only  referred  to 
these  in  an  allegorieal  manner,  endeavoring  .„  aranse 
you  more  than  anything  else. -The  tales  which  my 
brothers  in  the  Ameriean  forest  have  preserved,  and,  like 
the  story  of  the  three  black  crows,  every  narrator  clips, 
untjl  It  is  as  black  as  a  real  erow. 

I  must  cut  my  story  short  for  two  hours  yet,  to  have 
the  pleasure  of  seeing  and  hearing  the  famed  Jenny  Lind, 
and  it  is  now  nine  o'clock.  Thank  you  for  your  kind  at- 
tention, ladies  and  gentlemen-with  a  bow. 


iil 


11 


I 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


JENNY  LIND. 


I  WAS  glad  to  get  through  with  my  lecture,  whether 
my  audience  was  or  not.  It  delayed  the  pleasure  which 
I  anticipated  in  hearing  Jenny  Lind  for  the  first  time, 
and  therefore  I  was  glad  to  escape  from  the  sound  of 
my  own  voice.  Whether  any  of  my  audience  had 
any  .  ler  motive  in  wishing  me  through,  I  cannot  say. 
As  to  my  proceedings  after  my  escape  from  the  lecture- 
room,  and  my  impressions  of  the  songstress,  I  cannot  do 
better  than  to  give  them  as  expressed  in  a  letter  to  B. 
T.,  of  the  New- York  Tribune. 

Liverpool,  August  I6th,  1850. — I  have  just  heard  the 
identical  and  far-famed  Jenny  Lind  !  An  hour  ago  her 
voice  filled  the  largest  hall  that  I  ever  saw — the  Philhar- 
monic— containing  between  four  and  six  thousand  people. 
So  great  has  been  the  excitement  here  for  these  ten 
days,  that  everything  for  sale  has  Jenny  to  it.     Jenny  is 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS.  I49 

in  everything— the  stores,  the  sales-rooms,  and  from  the 
.pleudid  halls  to  the  cellar-all.  all  things  are  baptized 
with  the  all-potent  name  of  the  Swedish  young 
squaw  I 

"  Last  week  it  was  said  that  all  the  seats  had  been  en- 
gaged, and  that  even  the  standing  stalls  were  selhng  at 
a  premium.     Not  thinking  I  should  be  here  so  long,  I 
had  not  taken  the  precaution  of  previously  procuring  a 
ticket ;  and  finding  I  had  to  be  here  on  the  same  evening 
she  sang,  yet  otherwise  engaged,  I  had  to  put  myself 
against  her  singing  with  a  lecture  this  evening.     I  had  a 
full  house,  and  immediately  cut  off  my  exercises  in  order 
to  go  to  the  hall  to  get  in.     Yes.  to  try  to  get  in  !     0, 
presumption ;  on  what  will  I  depend  to  get  in  ?  was  l 
query  which  had  to  be  solved  first.      The  people  who 
crowded  around  me  seemed  to  say  that  I  could  not,  for 
they  had  heard  that  the  house  was  all  in  a  suffocation. 
Stepping  into  the  carriage.  I  said.  'I  will  hear  the  far- 
famed  Jenny  Lind  this  very  night— drive  on.' 

"Going  from  the  hall  where  I  delivered  an  address  to 
an  infatuated  people,  I  had  little  time  to  conclude  in 
what  way  I  had  to  get  in.  I  had  previously,  during  the 
day.  sent  a  note  saying  that  the  Indian  chief  would. 


II 

1 

1 

: 

j 

150 


EUROPE^iN  OBSERVATIOXS. 


about  nine  o'clock,  be  at  the  door,  and  desired  a  seat  if 
others   had  none,  and  the   hour   had    already    arrived. 
We    drove  up.     The  house  was  besieged  with  people. 
A  sea  of  heads  and  shoulders  !     Noise  and  confusion  ! 
'  Who  is  here  !'     '  The  Indian  Chief  desires  to  get  ad- 
mittance,'  was  the  word  given  by  my  Arion.     '  Come 
in  !'  says  the  man  at  the  gateway,  to  my  astonishment— 
and  as  I  was  stepping  out,  two  of  my  best  friends  in  this 
city  were  by  the  door,  who  immediately  took  me  by  the 
hand,   and  led  me  by  the  seats  on  the  aisle— up  to  the 
very  next  from  the  singers  !     0  !  I  could  hardly  credit  I 
was  in.     The  first  song  had  already  been  sung,  and  there 
was  an  intermission,  during  which  I  had  the  pleasure  of 
being  shown  all  parts  of  the  splendid  Hall— and  my  dress 
excited  as  much  attention  as  any  one  there,  for  Jenny 
Lind  had  not  come  out  then. 

•'  Soon  the  company  of  the  society  began  to  arrange 
themselves— and  the  people  settled.  One  or  two  pieces 
were  sung,  and  then  came  on  the  sight  which  my  very 
black  eyes  were  aching  to  see.  The  last  sound  of  the 
chiming  of  an  immense  crowd  subsided  ;  all  eyes  turned 
toward  the  door  of  the  closet  where  she  was,  and  so  soon 
as  the  door  opened,  cheers,  deafening  cheers,  filled  the 


EUliOPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


151 


Hall !  clapping  of  hands !  waving  of  handkerchiefs  by 
the  ladies  ail  over  the  house  !  yet  still  I  was  not  moved. 
She  bowed  a  most  exquisite,  modest   bow  !— Her  dress 
quite  plain,  yet  gracefully  made.     Her  hair— no  profu- 
sion of  flowers,  nor  the  wild  extravagant  torture  of  the 
hair.     Her  Ibrm  is  slender— a  full  chest— and  a  mouth 
like   that   of  the  Hon.   Henry  Clay.     She  glanced  her 
blue  eyes  over  the  sea  .of  heads.     Her  eyes  sparkled  like 
stars  glimmering  in  a  cloudless  sky.     Her  motions  were 
easy  and   natural.      She   sang.      Her   very    first   notes 
thrilled  through  me.     The  immense  house  full  of  people 
were  in  agony  at  some  of  her  touching  notes.     0,  what 
unearthly   and    heavenly   music  !      My  soul,    wrapt   in 
ecstacy,    seemed   borne  on  to  the  Garden   of  Eden.      I 
could  appreciate  the  poet's  words  : 

"  ' Her  deep  and  thrilling  song 

Seemed  with  its  piercing  melody  to  reach 

The  soul,  and  in  mysterious  unison, 

Blend  with  all  thoughts  of  gentleness  and  love.' 

"Her  voice  echoed  all  over  the  house.  Then  arose 
the  maddening  shout ;  for  a  minute  they  cheered  to  get 
her  back  !  Sure  enough  she  came,  and  sung  over  the 
same  piece  and  then  retired.     I  then  could  breathe  freer, 


fw 


152 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


()     ' 


for  I  had   been  holdinpr  my  breath  with  intense  interest 
while  she  sansr. 

•'  A  lady  by  my  side  sat  motionless,  like  a  statue,  yet 
the  tears  sparkled  as  they  wound  their  way  on  her  cheek 
with  her  breast  heaving  with  emotion.  Another,  and 
yet  quite  an  aged  gentleman,  gazed  with  interest,  the 
perspiration  rolling  down  his  face  ;  he  turns  to  his  lady 
and  says  :  '  She  sings  like  our  poor  Emma  used  to,  be- 
fore she  died.'     Both  wept. 

"  Oh  !  tell  the  poor  classes  all  over  the  land,  that  this 
far-famed  vocalist  was  once  an  obscure  girl— yes,  a  poor 
girl.  Let  them  imitate  such  examples,  and  be  some- 
thing while  they  live. 

"  Yours,  truly, 

"  KAH-GE-GA-GAH-BOWH." 


/.  ■^'li^Mi^'iiSM^^isssesssaae 


ISO  interest 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

BAPTIST  NOEL— TRAVELS  TO  COLOGNE. 

This  evening  I  delivered  another  lecture  before  a  good 
house;  and  at  a  quarter  after  nine  o'clock  I  r^ave  for 
London  again,  travelling  all  night.  Here  I  leave  my 
lady  until  I  return  from  Germany. 

The  night  was  tedious,  and  though  I  am  capable  of 
sleeping  soundly  in  almost  any  situation,  I  awoke  several 
times  before  getting  to  the  London  station.  I  have  here 
to  get  myself  ready,  for  on  Monday  I  leave  for  Frankfort 
on  the  Main. 

I  arrived  in  London  about  4  o'clock,  and  felt  about  -, 
bad  as  I  looked.  Again  I  quartered  myself  in  George 
street,  Hanover  square,  where  I  saw  several  gentlemen 
from  America,  travelling  and  enjoying  the  strange  sights 
of  the  Old  World.  A  Mr.  K.,  from  New  York,  is  the  life 
of  our  company.     He  runs  down  the  English  and  makes 


fimr 


154 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


fun  of  their  peculiarities,  "just  for  greens,"  as  we  say  in 
the  west. 

Sabbath  morning.  This  is  a  beautiful  day,  and  the 
sky  is  very  clear  for  England,  for  here  we  see  the  sun 
about  once  a  week,  and  that  only  for  a  few  minutes. 
The  streets  arc  comparatively  still,  and  the  people  are 
going  to  church.  I  lay  out  to  go  and  hear  the  great  and 
pious  good  man,  the  Rev.  Baptist  Noel,  this  evening,  for 
I  cannot  be  content  with  hearsay — I  must  go  and  hear 
for  myself 

The  night  coming  on,  we  repaired  to  an  old  Chapel  in 
the  north  part  of  Oxford  street.  The  building  is  very 
simple,  no  decorations,  the  seats  or  pews  high-backed  and 
plain,  without  cushions.  The  pulpit  projects  from  the 
wall,  in  the  old-fashioned  style.  The  people  began  to 
come  in,  and  soon  the  aisle  and  every  part  of  the  house 
was  filled.  I  Avas  seated  about  half-way  up  the  aisle  in 
a  good  seat,  and  in  a  favorable  position  to  see  and  hear. 

The  door  of  the  vestiy  opens,  and  forth  he  comes,  and 
kneels  down  on  the  cushion  at  the  Bible  desk.  Now  we 
see  him  to  advantage.  His  kneeling  form  incites  to  the 
same  posture  hi  the  observer,  for  it  bespeaks  the  posture 
of  the   mind.     The    reader   commences.     0,  wretched ! 


u 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


155 


Ke  sings  it  out  in  a  monotonous  tone,  varied  only  by  a 
twang  that  serves  to  fix  the  attention,  not  to  the  reading, 
but  to  the  manner  of  it.     What  is  still  worse  and  more 
absurd,  he  reads  with  an  air,  as  though  he  were  delight- 
ed with  his  performance.     The  genuine  singing  is  then 
gone  through  with,  and  at  the  close  the   Reverend  man 
prays.     Stillness  reigns  throughout  the  house.     I  never 
felt  before  how  a  man  could  talk  with  God  !~so  fervent, 
so  humble,  so  simple— such  saint-like  simplicity  !     His 
trembling  and  faltering  voice  vibrates  along  the  galleries 
with  a  heavenly  sweetness  that  seemed  to  dissolve  into 
the  whispering  of  angels.     The  cause  of  humanity  escapes 
not  his  prayer.     He  calls  down  blessings  upon  his  audi- 
ence.    Individuals,   even,  are  held  up  one  by  one,  and 
the  tender  language  of  love  and  sympathy  falls  from  his 
lips,  and  springs  in  an  overflowing  fountain  from  his  eyes, 
and  rolls  in  drops  along  his  earnest  face. 

I  loved  the  man  before,  but  I  love  him  better  now.  I 
love  all  things  which  discover  the  better  nature  in  man, 
which  stir  the  depths  of  sympathy,  and  which  give  evi- 
dence  of  the  living  soul  that  was  breathed  into  man  at 
the  creation.  0,  could  men  have  more  of  this  and  less 
of  self,  I  would  be  willing  to  spend  an  eternity  of  years 


rm. 


!    ii 


I    ill 
If  f!:!il! 


'■ 

Ij 

^iii 

Ii 

1 

if 

1'!!' 

1 

i 

1 

ii 

If 

n 

M       !      ■  >'!; 

i  ' 

■;! 

I 

■ 

>      ■■* 

-■ 

' 

1! 

1 

it'              , 

i  'i 
'  1 

156 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


in  this  world.     But  self-love  rnake^  a  hell  for  mankind, 
and  with  this  they  torment  each  other. 

Having  ended  his  prayer,  the  pastor  rose  and  read,  and 
it  was  the  sense  you  listened  to  as  well  as  the  language 
and  manner.  He  is  tall,  leans  forward  a  little — his  face 
is  neither  full  nor  lean,  the  forehead  is  well  developed, 
his  arms  are  long ;  and  as  to  his  eloquence,  when  he  had 
spoken  ahout  twenty  minutes,  I  said  to  myself,  "  Can  this 
be  Baptist  Noel  ?"  for,  for  plainness  I  never  did  hear  any 
one  to  equal  him  !  A  child  might  easily  understand  him. 
A  man  of  ordinary  capacity  might  preach  as  good  a  ser- 
mon, if  not  better,  so  far  as  talent  is  concerned.  What 
then  is  the  peculiarity  of  this  man's  discourse  which  dis- 
tinguishes him  ?  It  is  simplicity,  fervor  and  love.  There 
are  here,  no  flights  of  oratory,  no  distortion  of  counte- 
nance, no  awkward  display  of  ungraceful  arms. 

His  discourse  was  long,  yet  none  moved  from  their 
seats.  The  audience  followed  him  from  beginning  to 
end.  After  presenting  the  sweetness  and  holy  character 
of  our  Lord,  he  turns  to  the  sinner  with  a  look  that  I 
never  shall  forget.  "  This  is  the  Saviour  whom  you  de- 
spise." 

So  much  of  deep  compassion  his  face  reveals  that  the 


■  mankind, 

read,  and 
J  language 
I — his  face 
developed, 
en  he  had 
"  Can  this 
I  hear  any 
stand  him. 
ood  a  ser- 
1.  What 
which  dis- 
e.  There 
af  counte- 

i:om  their 
finning  to 
character 
lok  that  I 
n  you  de- 

s  tliat  the 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS.  157 

people  partook  of  his  feelings,  yet  could  not  respo.id.  The 
audience  could  but  weep.  In  the  interval  following  that 
sentence  I  thought  angels  could  have  looked  down  with 
wonder  and  admiration,  yea.  with  tenderness  and  sympa- 
thy. 

On  he  goes,  in  still  sweeter  strains,  praising  and  glori- 
fying his  Redeemer,  and  expressing  his  solicitude  for  the 
eternal  welfare  of  the  vast  assemblage. 

As  he  closed  his  long  and  faithful  sermon  he  offered  a 
prayer,  to  which  I  could  respond  with  a  swelling  heart, 
Amen. 

The  breathless  stillness  is  broken.  The  clerk  again 
makes  his  rehearsal,  a  sound  of  unintelligible  words. 

I  was  requested  to  see  him  in  the  vestry,  and  assenting 
gladly,  there  found  him  the  same  warm-hearted,  earnest 
preacher. 

We  bid  him  adieu.  As  I  stepped  out  my  thoughts 
recurred  to  men  of  renew.,  whom  I  have  seen.  Men 
who  in  the  world's  estimation  are  esteemed  "  greai."  But 
I  had  just  seen  a  greater  than  they.  I  felt  like  a  child, 
and  would  have  wept,  an  hour,  yea,  a  day,  to  have  tar- 
ried  with  him.  1  .ay  have  the  pleasure  of  enjoying  an 
eternity  with  li^rn. 


I 


riw 


i  "■'■ 


II    ,i 


; 


158 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


This  is  the  man  who  lately  caused  no  small  sensation 
in  the  Established  Church  by  his  arguments  in  favor  of 
baptism  by  immersion.  I  find  in  conversation  with 
Episcopalians  that  many  of  them  still  esteem  him  very 
highly  for  his  benevolence  of  heart  and  his  true  piety. 

Weary  and  tired  I  lay  me  down,  desirous  of  gaining 
some  rest,  as  to-morrow  I  must  leave  with  the  delegation 
from  liondon  for  Frankfort-on-the-Main. 

This  morning  (August  19th)  we  have  beautiful  weath- 
er, and  the  prospect  of  a  very  fine  day. 

Having  seen  a  few  friends^  I  now  leave.  It  will  take 
one  hour  to  pick  out  my  hazardous  way  amid  omnibuses, 
hacks,  stages  and  go-carts. 

I  need  not  speak  of  the  disappointment  experienced  so 
often  by  pedestrians  in  the  great  city  of  London.  Those 
who  have  been  there  will  at  once  chide  me  for  allotting 
so  short  a  time  as  one  hour  for  my  undertaking. 

Here  I  am  with  my  trunk  and  carriage  blockaded  by 
any  number  of  drays,  'busses  and  so  forth,  et  cetera,  com- 
pletely pent  in,  as  a  ship  by  icebergs,  with  no  chance  to 
go  this  side  or  that,  on  or  back. 

Hark  I  how  the  pugnacious  drivers  talk  I  they  swear 
like  troopers,  though  I  never  hectrd  troopers  swear,  yet  I 


i 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


159 


sensation 
1  favor  of 
ion  with 
him  very 
piety, 
if  gaining' 
lelegation 

ul  weath- 

will  take 
mnibuses, 

ienced  so 
I.  Those 
'  allotting 

ikaded  by 
;era,  com- 
chance  to 

icy  swear 
car,  yet  I 


I 


I 


know  they  couldn't  do  it  worse.  And  while  I  am  wait- 
ing they  are  swearing  over  their  horses'  backs.  My  watch 
says  IV.  yet  I'm  not  in  sight  of  the  bridge. 

"  Driver,  go  on,  do  propel,  and  you  shall  have  2s.6d. 
more.     Do  get  to  the  station  before  the  train  leaves." 

My  friend  Dr.   Francis  of  New  York  sometimes  styled 

me  a  P r,  but  here  it  tried  my  patience  and  good 

temper  very  severely. 

"  Is  the  train  gone  ?" 

"No,  they  are  soon  going — bless  them." 

"  Are  you  going  to  Frankfort  ?" 

"  Yes,  sir." 

"  Let  me  see  your  card." 


FRANKFORT     ON     THE     MAINE. 

No.  227.  [vignette.]  DELEGATE 

GLOEY    TO    GOD    IN   THE    HIGHEST;     ON    EARTH 

IPIiA(DIgo 

Departure   from  London  Bridge  Station, 
Mondny,  Aug.  19ih,  at  4  in  the  afternoon. 
Sittings  of  Congress,  Aug.  22,  224.3, 
DepiirUire  from  Frankfort  on  return  on  the 
morning  of  Thursday,  Aug.  29. 

WILLIAM   STOKES,   Secretary. 


REV.  GEO.  COPWAY. 


160 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


"  Pass  in." 

"  Hurry,  hurry,  my  man."  I  have  my  seat  safe  ;  my 
trunk  also,  and  about  me  is  a  set  of  jovial,  hearty  English- 
men with  a  sprinkling  of  lean  Yankees. 

At  quarter-past  four  our  conductor  whistles,  and  at  the 
signal  more  than  sixteen  cars  are  urawn  uut,  all  crowded 
full,  for  there  are  over  five  hundred  in  the  company, 
though  a  great  many  have  gone  -  n  in  previous  trains, 
and  will  meet  us  in  Frankfort. 

The  scenery  along  the  railway  is  very  beautiful,  roll- 
ing hills  dotted  with  trees,  and  valleys  filled  with  har- 
vesting, farms  well  cultivated,  trees  and  shrubbery  grow- 
ing, and  industrious  people  working. 

But  as  we  pass  everybody  looks  at  our  train,  wondering. 

Dover — the  place  of  our  embarkation.  We  have  been 
running  through  deep  tunnels,  going,  really,  by  faith  and 
not  by  sight.  We  are  now  stepping  on  board  a  swift 
steamer,  for  Calais. 

The  light-house  is  in  view.  The  wind  blows  fierce, 
the  waves  rise  high,  and  the  channel  is  in  a  foam.  Be- 
neath the  beautiful  rays  of  the  moon  how  brightly  the 
waters  glisten.  And  how  our  boat  plunges  amid  the 
waves.     It  begins  to  toss  about,     The  ladies  begin  to  lie 


U 


iiiii    • 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


161 


down.     It  matters  not  where,  for  Old  Neptune  is  giving 
them  a  shake,  so  the  floor  is  better  than  no  place. 
Sea-sickness  I  awful  pleasure  ! 

What  an  internal  improvement  is  progressing.  It 
seems  as  though  the  committee  of  interior  had  ordered  a 
search  ibr  smuggled  goods,  fearing  that  from  England 
we  might  carry  over  some  hardware  in  our  stomachs,  to 
France,  and  neglect  to  pay  duty. 

The  saloon  is  packed  with  prostrate  passengers.  Some 
sick,  very  sick,  and  angry  with  the  Captain  because  he 
will  not  stop  and  let  them  get  out ! 

Gentlemen  stand  on  the  deck,  doing  all  they  can  to 
keep  themselves  down,  and  their  meals,  ditto. 

We  who  are  well,  cannot  but  smile  at  the  very  ludi- 
crous figure  which  some  make,  but  the  pitiful  looks  of 
ladies,  and  the  desponding  looks  of  gentlemen,  seem  to 
say,  "  We  don't  see  anything  to  laugh  at." 

A  few  moments  pass,  and  we  are  in  the  harbor  of 

Calais,  just  before  us  is  the  first  of  Brother  Crapeau's  land. 

A  beautiful  station  is  it,  and  just  at  the  river's  side. 

Now,  it   is   French,   French,   French.     Nothing   but 

French.     Nothing  than  French.    Nothing  except  French. 

Here  we  are  taking  la  coffee. 


i  I 


18, 


i 


162 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


The  people  here  seem  to  have  made  calculations  as  to 
how  much  money  they  would  make  by  us  ;  no  very  small 
sum  neither.  Exchange  Oflicer  is  here,  and  those  who 
have  a  delegation  ticket,  are  alloNved  to  pass  their  bag- 
gage over  without  much  trouble 

A  little  after  eleven  o'clock,  at  night.  We  are  now 
ready,  and  our  conductor  blows  a  blast  of  his  horn,  which 
has  the  same  signification  as  the  "  whistle"  of  the  Eng- 
hshman,  and  the  "all  aboard"  of  the  Yankee. 

But  here,  before  I  leave  Calais,  1  will  give  you  some 
historical  reminiscences  of  the  place. 

"  Calais  has  10,000  inhabitants  ;  it  is  a  fortress  of  the 
2d  class,  situated  in  a  most  barren  and  unpicturesque 
district,  with  sandhills  raised  by  the  wind  and  the  sea  on 
the  one  side,  and  morasses  on  the  other,  contributing  con- 
siderably to  its  military  strength,  but  by  no  means  to  the 
beauty  of  its  position.  An  English  traveller  of  the  time 
of  James  I.,  described  it  as  'a  beggarly,  extorting  town  ; 
monstrous  dear  and  sluttish.'  In  the  opinion  of  many, 
tliis  description  holds  good  down  to  the  present  time. 

Except  to  an  Englishman  setting  his  foot  for  the  first 
time  on  the  Continent,  to  whom  everything  is  novel, 
Calais  has  little  that  is  remarkable  to  show.     After  an 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIOXS. 


163 


hour  or  two  it  becomes  tiresome,  and  a  traveller  will  do 
well  to  quit  it  as  soon  as  he  has  cleared  his  baggage  from 
the  custom-house,  and  procured  the  signature  of  the  pohce 
to  his  passport,  which,  if  he  be  pressed  for  time,  will  be 
done  almost  at  any  hour  of  the  day  or  night,  so  as  not  to 
delay  his  departure.  It  is  necessary  to  be  aware  of  this, 
as  the  commissionaires  of  the  hotels  will  sometimes  en- 
deavor to  detain  a  stranger,  under  pretence  of  not  beino- 
able  to  get  his  passport  signed. 

Travellers  landing  at  a  French  port,  and  not  intendin<r 
to  go  to  Paris,  but  merely  passing  through  the  country, 
as  on  the  route  to  Ostend  or  Brussels,  are  not  compelled 
to  exchange  their  passport  for  a  passe  provisoire,  but 
merely  require  the  vise  of  the  authorities  at  Calais  to 
allow  them  to  proceed  on  their  journey.  Persons  unpro- 
vided with  a  passport,  may  procure  one  from  the  British 
Consul  for  4s.  6d. 

The  Pier  of  Calais  is  an  agreeable  promenade,  nearly 
3-4  of  a  mile  long.  It  is  decorated  with  a  pillar,  raised 
to  commemorate  the  return  of  Louis  XVIII.  to  France, 
which  originally  bore  this  inscription  : 

'Le  24  Avril,  1814,  S.  M.  Louis  XVIII.  debarqua 
vis-a-vis  de  cette  colonne,  et  fut  enfin  rendu  a  I'amour 


I 


I'    I 


\   1 


';il 


i 
i 
i 


164 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


des  Francais  ;  pour  eu  perpctuer  le  souvenir,  la  ville  de 
Calais  a  elevo  ce  monumcut.' 

No  one  needs  to  be  reminded  of  the  interesting  inci- 
dents of  the  siege  of  Calais  by  Edward  III.,  which  lasted 
11  months,  and  of  the  heroic  devotion  of  Eustace  de  St. 
Pierre  and  his  five  companions.  Few,  however,  are  aware 
that  the  heroes  of  Calais  not  only  went  unrewarded  by 
their  own  king  and  countrymen,  but  were  compelled  to 
beg  their  bread  in  misery  through  France.  Calais  re- 
mulned  in  the  hands  of  the  English  more  than  200  years, 
from  1347  to  1558,  when  it  was  taken  by  the  Duke  de 
Guise.  It  was  the  last  relic  of  the  Gallic  dominions  of 
the  Plantagenets,  which,  at  one  time,  comprehended  the 
half  of  France.  Calais  was  dear  to  the  English  as  the 
prize  of  the  valor  of  their  forefathers,  rather  than  from 
any  real  value  it  possessed." 

This  town  is  perhaps  Anglicized  in  great  measure  as 
it  is  by  the  proximity  of  Dover,  and  the  English  do- 
minions. There  are  a  great  many  people  here  from 
England,  some  for  trade,  others  for  different  purposes. 
The  historical  associations  of  this  place  are  numerous. 

The  ruins  of  old  fortifications,  and  the  vestiges  of 
war,  it  is  said,  hive  destroyed  this  place  of  associations. 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


165 


I 


Lady  Hamilton  is  buried  in  the  outer  skirts  of  the  town, 
where,  it  is  said,  she  died  in  utter  want. 

The  night  is    cold,  and  we  are  going   over   a   very 
level  country.     Group  after  group  of  houses,  we  pass. 
And  the  country  presents  in  the  night  more  monotony 
than   in  a  waste  of  plain  like  the  Prairie  of  the  West. 
Our  company  though  numerous  are  all  still,  bowing  in 
the  dark,  and  a  great  deal   more  polite  than  they  are 
when  wide  awake,  for  it  is  all  se// here.    Not  so  much  at- 
tention to  one  another.     This  might  be  tolerated  by  an 
American  if  this  only  existed  among  the  men.     But,  a 
lady  here,  so  far  in  my  observation,  receives  no  more  fa- 
vors on  account  of  her  gentleness,  and  I  might  say  help- 
lessness in  travelling  alone. 

Whatever  it  may  be  in  the  American,  whether  a  mere 
love  to  show  off  or  a  desire  to  please  in  the  attentions 
which  are  paid  to  ladies  in  America  in  general,  a  thing 
which  is  commendable  in  them.  The  creed  with  most 
men  well  bred  seems  to  be—"  Be  civil  to  all,  since  in  do- 
ing so  it  neither  takes  any  of  ours  nor  the  qualities  you 
possess."  Which  is  by  far  the  best  than  this  growling, 
and  snarling,  at  everything  which  does  not  exactly 
meet  one's  approbation. 


166 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


i    I 


If'    t 


.    li^ 


1. 

♦:  f  I ! 


I 

f 

i 

t 

1 

r 

1  i 

1 
i 

ii 

\ 

t 

:  lii. 

ti 

I  have  aoen  a  want  of  decoronp  <ctiou  a  men,  here  in 
England,  wliich  I  certainly  did  no'  ^ ,  to  have  lound 
before  1  left  from  my  native  land.  U  ib  true  that  at 
times  ladies  by  their  over-abundamv  of  iripudenee  do  not 
deserve  a  fair  treatment ;  yet  still  they  plead  they  are  the 
"  weaker  and  gentler  sex,"  and  ought  to  be  treated  ac- 
cordingly. 

Enough  of  this,  for  we  don't  travel  here  to  moralize 
on  the  present,  as  we  may  do  at  some  other  time.  Yet, 
still  I  will  abuse  no  one.  Even  if  a  man  is  too  mean  to 
be  noticed,  I  would  not  have  his  name  in  the  routine  of 
names  now  dear  to  my  heart  among  the  English, 

We  are  coming  to  some  place.  Stopped  but  once 
rince  we  left. 

A  town  which  is  called  St.  Omer. 

It  is  described  as  a  fortified  town  in  a  marshy  situation, 
with  21,000  inhabitants. 

"The  Cathedral  is  a  fine  Gothic  building,  containing 
many  interesting  relics  from  the  once  celebrated  city  of 
Terouanne,  but  heavy  and  stunted  in  its  proportions. 
The  tower,  porch,  and  interior  are  most  worthy  of  obser- 
vation.    The  most  remarkable  building,  however,  is 

The  Church  of  St.  Bertin,  destroyed  in  the  revolution  : 


EITROPKAN    OI)S|.:iiVAT[ONM. 


Ifi7 


II,  here  in 
ive  louiui 
!  that  at 
ice  do  not 
;y  are  the 
eatecl  ac- 

moralize 
iie.     Yot, 

mean  to 
outine  of 
I. 

but  once 


situation, 

ontaining 
(I  city  of 
)portions. 
of  ohser- 
r,  is 
irolution  : 


it   oxi^t.    ,  ov  only  ns  a  most  k.anlif.il  and  inlorcsliu^ 
ruin;  '...'    .f.  ;3  to  bo  feared    that    it    may  not   lon.tr  re- 
main   iv.u  in   this  state.     It    was  once    considered  the 
fniest  ecch'siastieal  cditiee  in  French  l'Man(K'rs  ;  (.qually 
distincjuished  for  size,  purity,  and  nnilormity  of  styh..      It 
afforded   an  asyhun  to  Thomas  a  Becket  while  banished 
from    Ensrland.     The    choir  was  tini.he.'   in   i:{r,;j,  i|,e 
transepts  in  1117  ;  tho  nave  and  tower,  be^r„„  i„  i  |;},, 
were  not  completed  till  ir,:i(),  twocenturiesafter  the  com- 
mencement of  tho  edifice.     At  the  revolution  the  abbey 
was    suppressed,    and    its    property    contlscated.       Tho 
church,  which  had   been  spared  by  the  Convention,  was 
sold  under  tho   Directory,  and   demolished,  in  17')!),   for 
the  sake  of  the  glass,  metal,  and  wood,  which   were  dis- 
posed of  in  lots.      Since  that  time  the  ruins  have  snilered 
much  from  exposure    to    tho  weather;    and  nearly  all 
that  remains  of  the  nave  and  transepts  is  likely  to  per- 
ish in  a  few  years  :  but  tho  tower  is  almost  perfect,  with 
the  exception  of  the  mullions  of  the  windows,  and  with 
the  assistance  of  some  walls  built  across  the  openincrg  to 
support  it,  may  be  prevented  from  falMnjr. 

A  Seminary  for  the    education  of  Knjriish   and   Irish 
Catholics  exists  liere  :  it  has  succeeded   the   celebrated 


i,v 


m 


I 


168 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


Jesuits'  Collage  founded  by  Father  Parsons  for  the  educa- 
tion of  young  Englishmen.  Daniel  O'Connell  was 
brought  up  here  for  the  priesthood,  and  several  of  the 
conspirators  engaged  in  the  Gunpowder  Plot  were  pupils 
of  the  same  school.  There  are  not  more  than  15  or  20 
students  at  preseiit." 

Just  at  daylight  after  leaving  this  place,  we  had  a 
short  time  to  rub  the  dust  from  our  eyes  and  to  look  at 
the  country  of  the  Belgians.  This  is  a  monotonous 
country — no  hills  to  see.  But  one  continual  level  of 
mud  and  stagnant  pools  of  water.  A  very  easy  country 
to  grade  railroads,  and  a  fine  country  for  farming  if  it 
was  not  so  level.  These  people  seem  to  be  very  indus- 
trious. Women  are  as  often  seen  in  the  fields  as  men, 
substantial  they  are  too.  Firm,  and  rugged-looking 
faces  as  round  as  the  fat  face  of  the  moon. 

Towards  9  o'clock,  we  have  not  got  any  breakfast 
yet,  and  I  feel  as  though  I  could  devour  any  kind  of  eata- 
ble substance.  We  now  coiue  to  Tiille,  and  I  am  too 
busy  in  attending  to  my  bodily  wants  then  to  rake  any 
historical  notices  of  the  place.  The  people  are  busy  look- 
ing at  us,  and  they  certainly  must  wonder  when  they  see 
us  eat,  if  this  is  the  way  we  devour  our  food,  whcf?  we 


fl 


he  educa- 
nell  was 
ral  of  the 
are  pupils 
15  or  20 

ve  had  a 

0  look  at 
jnotonous 

level  of 
y  country 
ling  if  it 
ry  indus- 

as  men, 
d-looking 

breakfast 

1  of  eata- 
.  a-n  too 
rake  any 
usy  look- 

they  see 
vh.Q*'(i  we 


EUROPE.VN  OBSERVATIONS.  IGQ 

come  from.     Some  of  us  do  not  do  so,  and  others  of  us 
worse. 

This  morning  to  philosophize  over  a  cup  of  coilee  had 
to  be  dispensed  with.  For  none  seem  to  have  manners 
enough  left,  to  help  the  others. 

The  to™  is  dcseribed  as  a  eity  of  imporlanee,  with 
70.000  inhabitants;  handsomely  built,   and   surrounded 
by  fortifieations  whieh  render  it  one  of  the   strongest 
plaees  i„  Franee.     Its  eUadel  is  considered  a  masterpiece 
of  the  skill  of  Vauban,  who  was  governor  of  it  for  many 
years.     At  dilTerent  periods,  and  under  diflerent  masters 
Lme  has  stood  seven  distinct  sieges;   the  mest  memora- 
He,  perhaps,  was  that  by  the  allied  armies  of  Marlbor- 
ough ar,d  Eugene  in  1708,  of  three  months'  duration 
dunng   which  the   war  was  net  merely  waged   above 
ground,  but  the  most  bloody  combats  were  fought  below 
the  surface  between  the  miners  of  the  opposite  armies 
each  endeavoring  to  sap  and  undermine  the  galleries  of 
his  opponent. 

Boufflers,  the  French  commander,  after  a  masterly  de- 
fence,  was  cupelled  to  capitulate,  but  upon  the  most 

honorable  terms. 

The  Rue  Royale  is  a  fine  street  nearly  a  mile    long 


!      !■ 


170 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


i  il: 


I  '111 


j 


I     I 


The  most  interesting  public  buildings  are  the  ancient 
Hotel  de  Yille,  built  by  Philip  the  Good,  1430,  and  the 
Cathedral  of  St.  Maurice,  in  which  the  Duke  de  Berri 
was  buried.  Its  exterior  is  utterly  uninteresting  :  the  in- 
terior is  good,  and  worth  seeing. 

The  Public  Library  of  20,000  vols,  is  a  remarkably 
fine  collection,  and  contains,  besides,  a  number  of  very 
curious  MSS.  charters,  &c. 

In  the  Church  of  St.  Catherine  there  is  a  very  capital 
picture  by  Hubens, — the  Martyrdom  of  St.  Catherine ; 
but  hung  so  far  above  the  high  altar  that  it  can  with 
difficulty  be  seen. 

The  Museum  of  Natural  History  is  rich  in  the  birds, 
fishes,  insects,  and  minerals  of  the  surrounding  district. 

There  is  a  handsome  Promenade  and  a  tolerable 
Theatre  here. 

Lille  contains  little  to  detain  a  traveller  not  interested 
in  manufactures,  but  so  much  active  industry  as  is  visi 
ble  here  is  rarely  found  in  a  fortid.-d  town  ;  it  possesses 
150  cotton  factories,  which  liave  risen  up  in  the  room 
of  the  manufacture  uflace,  for  \  hi>.'i  it  was  once  famous. 
It  has,  besides,  numerous  other  important  manufactures  ; 
and  its  trade  and  commercial   prosperity   are  much  pro- 


3  ancient 
and  the 

de  Berri 
:  the  in- 

Tiarkably 
r  of  very 

•y  capital 
athcrine  ; 
can  with 

the  birds, 
listrict. 
tolerable 

interested 
as  is  visi 
;  possesses 
the  room 
;e  famous, 
ifactures  ; 
much  prn- 


ECROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS.  I71 

motcd  by  the  two  navigable  canals  which  .rave:,e  the 
town.  The  cultivation  of  beet-root  for  sugar  is  carried 
on  to  a  great  extent  in  the  country  round  Lille. 

Outside  the  Paris  gate  are  nearly  200  wi„j„nll,  pH„ei. 
pally  used  for  grinding  rapeseed. 

There  are  not  so  many  curiosities  in  this  tow«  as  to 
pay  any  man  for  seeing  a„d  visiting.  The  streets  are  old- 
fash,oned  and  houses  ancient.  Mud  .walls  falling  in  pieces 
—signs  of  houses  very  prominent. 

At  a  little  after  10,  we  are  here  in  Ghent,  celebrated 
for  us  many  curiosities  and  ancient  buildings.     No  town 
seems  to  possess  that  claim  of  attention  as  this  does.     But 
w  cannot  even  go  up  to  the  streets  to  see  it,  for  we  s,,,y 
but  10  minutes.     There  are  in  sight,  many  public  build- 
.ngs.     The  curious  roofed  and  gabled  houses,  high,  paint- 
e^  roofs,  ,-..  curious  devices  around  them  strike  my  eye 
The  grass   >,  literally  covered  with  drapery  g„„ds  and 
cottons,  bleaching. 

L'>"^«re  we  came  to  it  did  we  see  its  steeples.     Be- 
^"ff  a    I  ^  „,orning.  the  sky  i^  fine,  and  the  atmosphere 

Our  company  is  gathering,  and  we  will  soon  be  on  our 
way  again.     This  city  is  associated  with  many  s.rrin^ 


,5" 


r 


172 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


!  ! 


ill, 


:  I 


iij 


events.     To  Americans  more  than  any  city  in  this  king- 
dom. 

The  following  are  a  few  of  the  historical  associations 
connected  with  this  city. 

Ghent  lies  upon  the  rivers  Scheldt  and  Lys,  whose  nu- 
merous branches,  traversing  the  town,  form  canals  in  all 
directions:  it  has  about  92,000  inhabitants.     In  the  time 
of  Charles  V.  this  was,  perhaps,  the  largest  and  most 
populous  city  of  Europe.     It  contained  35,000   houses, 
and  175,000  inhabitants  ;  and  that  emperor  used  spor- 
tively to  say  that  he  could  put  all  Paris  into  his  glove 
(gant).     The  circumference  of  its  walls  at  the  present 
day  .X...UL-    as  between  7  and  8  miles.     In  ihe  10th  cen- 
tury     ^■'    s  the  capital  of  Flanders,  but  in  process  of  time 
the  turbulent  weavers,  among  whom  a  spirit  of  indepen- 
dence had  early  begun  to  work,  rose  up  against  their 
feudal  superiors,  and  threw  off  their  yoke,  or  obtained 
from  them  concessions  and  immunities  which  formed  the 
origin  of  popular  rights  in  Europe.     At  length  its  burghers 
became  so  bold  and  warlike,  that  they  were  able  to  re- 
pulse from  their  walls  21,000  English,  commanded  by 
Edward  I.,  in   1297  ;  vnd  r^/aibuted  to  beat  the  elite 
of  the  French  chivalry  at  Courtray,  in  the  "Battle  of 


isociations 


f, 
M 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIOXS. 


173 


Spurs.'     Their  allegiance  both  to  the  counts  of  Flanders 
and  dukes  of  Burgiuidy,  seems  to  have  been  little  more 
than  nominal ;  since,  whenever  these  seigneurs  attempted 
to  impose  a  tax  which  was  unpopular,  the  great  bell 
sounded  the  alarm,  the  citizens  flew  to  arms,  and  slew  or 
expelled  from  the  town  the  officers  appointed  by- their 
sovereign.     It  did  not  take  long  to  equip  an  armament 
of  burghers  and  artisans,  who  had  weapons  always  at 
hand,  and  who  repaired  to  the  scene  of  action  in  their 
every-day  or  working  dress,  only  distinguished  by  a  badge, 
such  as  a  white  sleeve  worn  over  it,  or  a  white  hood. 
Thus  it  happened  that  popular  tumults  were  as  frequent 
in  the  14th  and  15th  centuries  in  Ghent  as  they  have 
been  at  Paris  in  the  19th,  and  rather  more  difficult  to 
quell.     On  the  other  hand,  it  not  unfrequontly  happened, 
that  the  seigneur,  aroused  by  some  act  of  atrocity  or  in- 
subordination, collected  his  forces  together  and  took  signal 
and  terrible  vengeance.     These  courageous  but  undisci- 
plined  citizens  then  atoned  for  their  audacity  on  the  field 
of  battle,  being  mowed  down  in  thousands.     Afterwards 
came  the  season  of  retribution  and  humiliation  for  the 
town  :  enormous  subsidies  were  levied  on  it ;  its  dearest 
privileges  were  confiscated  ;  and  its  most  honored  citizens 


IJ 


174 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


f  'ii'i 


Ml  ' 


and  magistrates  were  condemned  to  march  out  of  the 
gates  in  their  skirts,  with  halters  round  their  necks,  and 
to  kiss  the  dust  before  the  feet  of  their  imperious  lord  and 
conqueror.  The  city  of  Ghent  was  several  times  forced 
to  make  such  an  abject  and  ludicrous  act  of  submission. 
The  immediate  cause  of  its  decline  and  ruin  may  be 
traced  to  this  spirit  of  revolt.  "  Intoxicated  with  the 
extent  of  their  riches,  and  the  fulness  of  their  freedom," 
the  citizens  engaged  in  a  contest  with  their  sovereign, 
Philip  the  Good.  It  is  no  little  proof  of  their  vast  re- 
sources that  they  were  able  to  maintain  it  from  1448  to 
1453  ;  but  in  the  end  they  were  compelled  to  submit, 
with  abject  humiliation,  heavy  fines,  and  loss  of  trade. 

In  1400  the  city  of  Ghent  is  said  to  have  contained 
80,000  men  capable  of  bearing  arms.  The  number  of 
weavers  then  amounted  to  40,000  ;  and  they  alone  could 
furnish  18,000  fighting  men  out  of  their  corporation.  A 
custom  derived  from  that  period  still  exists  in  the  town  : — 
A  bell  was  rung  at  morning,  noon,  and  evening,  to  sum- 
mon the  weavers  to  their  work  and  meals  ;  while  it  toll- 
ed, the  drawbridges  over  the  canals  could  not  be  raised 
for  the  passage  of  vessels ;  and  other  persons  were  even 
enjoined  not  to  go  out  into  the  streets,  for  fear  of  inter- 


EUROPE  AX   OBSERVATIONS.  175 

rupting  the  vast  stream  of  population ;  while  children 
were  carefully  kept  within  doors,  lest  they  should  be  trod- 
den mider  foot  by  the  passing  multitude. 

Though   fallen  from   its  high  estate,  and  sunk  both  in 
population  and  extent  of  manufacture  below  what  it  was 
in  the  proud  days  of  Burgundian  rule,  it  does  not  display 
the  same  signs  of  decay  and  listlessness  as  Bruges :  it  is 
still  the  Belgic  Manchester.     In  1804,  while  united  to 
France,  it  was  ranked  by  Napoleon  as  the  third  manu- 
facturing town  in  his  dominions,  after  Lyons  and  Rouen. 
The  revolution  of  1830,  however,  has  inflicted  another 
vital  blow  on  its  prosperity  ;  and  there   are  now  many 
workmen  out  of  employ.     Several  considerable  manufac- 
tures are  carried  on  here,  especially  that  of  cotton.     In 
1801,  a  clever  Fleming,  named  Lieven  Bauens,  brought 
over  from  Manchester  English  workmen   and  spinning- 
jennies.     The   manufacture  quickly  took  root,  so  as  to 
employ  in    a   few  years   more   than    30,000  workmen. 
Sixty  steam-engines  were  employed,  not  long  ago,  in  the 
town  and  neighborhood  to  set  in  motion  the  machinery 
of  the  various  cotton  mills.     But  since  the  Revolution 
many  have  ceased  to  work,  and  several  proprietors  have 
removed  their  establishments  to  Holland. 


176 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


■>i 


The  picturesqueness  of  the  houses  of  G  heat,  the  fantas- 
tic variety  of  gable  etuis  rising  stepwise,  or  ornamented 
with  scrolls  and  carving,  arrest  the  stranger's  eye  at  every 
turn." 

No  country  that  ever  I  visited  possesses  such  sameness 
as  this.  Nothing  seems  to  be  anywhere,  which  could  give 
it  the  contrast.  All  alike,  the  land  is  cultivated.  The 
group  of  willows,  and  rows  of  poplar  trees,  are  the  prin- 
cipal objects  which  are  seen  along  the  flat  road.  Some 
places  the  farms  are  so  immersed  in  water  that  they  appear 
more  like  lakes  skirted  with  wood.  Women  are  useful 
here.  They  are  up  to  the  knees  in  mud,  digging  up  or 
fishing  up  their  potatoes — fine  fields  of  this  useful  article 
of  food  are  now  covered  with  water.  They  appear  to  be 
devoid  of  curiosity,  for  when  our  trains  are  passing,  they 
do  not  even  Icok  to  see  the  train  as  it  whizzes  by  them. 
Working  away  without  any  interruption.  Tobacco  is 
grown  here  for  each  farm,  as  one  corner  of  it  may  be  seen 
growing. 

The  road  is  very  dusty.     We  soon  will  get  to  the  fron- 
tier of  Belgium. 

The  next  place  of  note  we  come  to  is  Liege.     Jt  is 
situated  where,  around  it  are  mountains  the  first  of  the 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


177 


kind  we  saw.  The  scenery  is  fine  around  it,  being  down 
somewhat  in  a  valley.  The  following  are  some  of  its  his- 
torical associations : 

"  Liege  lies  at  the  junction  of  the  Ourthe  with  the 
Mouse ;  it  has  58,500  inhabitants,  and  differs  from  most 
other  Belgian  towns,  inasmuch  as  it  at  least  appears  to 
be  thriving.     The  clouds  of  smoke  usually  seen  from  a 
distance  hanging  over  it,  proclaim  the   manufacturing 
city,  the  Birmingham  of  the  Low  Countries  ;  and  the 
dirty  houses,  murky  atmosphere,  and  coal-stained  streets, 
are  the  natural  consequence  of  the  branch  of  industry  in 
which  its  inhabitants  are  engaged. "   The  staple  manu- 
factory is  that  of  fire-arms  ;  Liege  is,  in  fact,  one  great 
armory,  and  produces  a  better  article,  it  is  said,  at  a  low 
price,  than  can  be  made  for  the  same  sum  in  England. 
The  saddlery  is  also  very  good  here,  and  a  particular  kind 
of  coarse  cloth  is  manufactured  in  large  quantities.  There 
is  a  Royal   Cannon   Foundry    here,   and  Mr.   Cockerill 
manufactures  spinning  machinery  and  steam-engines  to 
rival  the  English.     The  cause  of  this  commercial  pros- 
perity is,  as  iniglit  be  conjectured,  the  presence  of  coal  in 
great  abundance  close  at  hand.     The  mines  arc  worked 

upon  the  most  scientific  principles  :  some  of  them  are 

8# 


4  '  ^ 


it 'A 


? 


!!ti 


Wi   «! 


1 1 


178 


EUROPEAN   OBSEliVATIONS. 


situated  so  near  to  the  town  that  their  galleries  are  car- 
ried under  the  streets,  so  that  many  of  the  houses,  and 
even  the  bed  of  the  river,  are  in  some  places  undermined. 
Previous  to  the  Eevolutidn,  Holland  was  supplied  with 
coal  from  Belgium  ;  but  the  home  consumption  has  since 
increased  to  such  an  exient,  from  the  numerous  manu- 
factories which  have  sprung  up  on  all  sides,  that  the  Bel- 
gian mines  are  now  inadequate  to  suj  ily  the  demand, 
and  a  law  has  been  passed  permitting  the  importation  of 
coals  from  Newcastle. 

The  buildings  best  worth  notice  in  Liege  are,  the 
Church  of  St.  Jaques  and  the  interior  court  of  the  Palais 
de  Justice,  formerly  palace  of  the  Prince  Bishop,  built  by 
the  Cardinal  Bishop  Erard  de  la  Marck,  1533.  The 
stunted  pillars  of  the  colonnade  which  surrounds  it  bear 
a  resemblance  to  those  of  the  ducal  palace  at  Venice, 
and  have  a  striking  efFect  with  much  the  same  character 
as  those  found  in  works  of  Moorish  architecture.  Each 
pillar  is  carved  with  a  ditlerent  pattern. 

A  visit  to  Liege,  and  the  mention  of  the  Bishop  and 
his  palace,  are  likely  to  call  to  the  mind  of  an  English- 
man the  vivid  scenes  and  descriptions  of  Q,uentin  Dur- 
ward.     He  will,  however,  in   vain  endeavor  to  identify 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


179 


many  of  the  places  there  spoken  of,  with  the  spot.    The 
Bisliop's  "  Castle  of  Schoiiwaldt,  situated  about  10  miles 
from  the  town,"  cannot  be  Seraing,  as  it  was  not  built 
till  a  much  later  period.     Sir  Walter  Scott  never  visited 
Liege  himself,  so  that  his  localities  arc  purely  imaginary ; 
yet,  from  the  vividness  of  his  description  of  the  town,  and 
the  perfect  consistency  of  all   his  topographical  details, 
few  readers  would    doubt  that    he    was  personally  ac- 
quainted with  it.     He   has  also  made  a  slight  variation 
in  the  romance  from  the  real  facts  of  history  as  fa.  as  re- 
lates  to  Liege  :  and  as  the  events  on  which  he  founded 
the  novel  are  of  the  highest  interest,  and  serve  to  illus- 
trate the  story  of  this  ancient  "  Imperial  free   city,"   it 
may  not  be  amiss  shortly  to  relate  them.     The  citizens 
of  Liege,  puffed  up,  as  Philip  de  Commines  says,  by  pride 
and  riches,  gave  constant  proofs  of  their  boldness  and  in- 
dependence by  acts  of  insubordination,  and  even  of  open 
rebellion  against  their  liege  Lord,  Charles  the  Bold  of 
Burgundy,  and  against  th:     ishops  who  were  his  allies  or 
supported  by  him.     He  had  inflicted  severe  chastisement 
upon   the  Liegois  after  his  victory  at  St.  Trend  (when 
many  thousands  were  left  dead  on  the  field),  by  abridging 
their  privileges  and  taking  away  their  banners  ;  and  when 


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EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


they  submissively  brought  him  the  keys  of  the  town,  he 
refused  to  enter  by  the  gates,  but  compelled  them  to  bat- 
ter down  the  city  wall  for  a  distance  of  20  fathoms,  and 
fill  up  the  ditch.  He  then  entered  by  the  breach,  with 
his  visor  down,  his  lance  in  rest,  at  the  head  of  his  armed 
bands,  as  a  conqueror  ;  and  further,  to  disable  the  bold 
burghers  from  mutiny,  ordered  all  their  fortifications  to 
be  demolished.  This  punishment  was  inflicted  in  1467, 
but  it  was  so  little  regarded,  that  the  very  next  year  they 
again  broke  out  into  open  revolt,  at  the  instigation  of  se- 
cret emissaries  of  Louis  XL,  seized  upon  the  person  of 
their  bishop  in  his  castle  at  Tongres,  and  brought  him 
prisoner  to  Lioge. 

They  were  headed  by  one  John  de  Vilde,  or  Ville, 
called  by  the  French  Le  Sauvage  :  it  is  not  improbable 
that  he  was  an  Englishman,  whose  real  name  was  Wild, 
and  that  he  was  one  of  those  lawless  soldiers  who  at  that 
time  served  wherever  they  got  best  paid,  changing  sides 
whenever  it  suited  them." 

Immediately  after  we  left  the  frontier  of  Prussia  in 
Belgium,  we  came  to  the  Rhenish  Prussia  ;  and  we 
have  just  stopped  10  minutes  in  Aix-la-Chapelle.     This 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


181 


to  me  is  a  very  interesting  place  on  account  of  its  many 
historical  reminiscences. 

"  Aixla-Chapelle,  a  town  of  37,800  inhabitants,  was 
known  to  the  Romans  under  the  name  of  Aquis  Grani. 
The  warm  springs  were  a  sufficient  inducement  to  fix 
that  bath-loving  people  on  the  spot,  and  remains  of  their 
baths  are  constantly  found  in  digging.     It  is  to  Charle- 
magne, however,  that  the  city  owed  its  eminence.     He 
was  born  here,  as  some  conjecture,  and  without  doubt 
died  here,  8I4.     He  raised  it  to  the  rank  of  second  city 
in  his  Empire,  and  made  it  capital  of   his  dominions 
N.  of  th.3  Alps,  appointing  it  the  place  of  coronation  for 
the  German  Emperors  his  successors. 

In  the  middle  ages  it  flourished  with  the  privileges  of 
a  Free  Imperial  City,  and  attained  great  eminence  in  its 
manufactures,  especially  in  that  of  cloth,  for  which  it  is 
celebrated,  even  to  the  present  day. 

In  later  times  it  has  been  distinguished  by  the  Con- 
gresses held  here— 1.  In  1668,  when  a  treaty  of  peace 
was  concluded  between  France  and  Spain  ;— 2.  In  1748, 
when  a  general  peace  was  signed  by  the  sovereigns  of 
Europe  ;  and— 3.  In  1818,  at  which  the  Emperors  of 
Austria  and  Russia,  and  the  King  of  Prussia,  were  pros- 


182 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


ent  ill  person,  and  Ambassadors  were  sent  from  George 
IV.  and  Louis  XVIII.  to  decide  on  the  evacuation  of 
France  by  the  Anied  armies. 

After  the  peace  of  Paris,  Aix  was  separated  from 
France,  to  which  it  had  been  united  by  Napoleon,  and 
added  to  the  dominions  of  the  King  of  Prussia.  By  the 
handsome  new  streets  and  fine  buildings  erected  since 
that  event,  as  well  as  by  the  increase  of  population,  it 
appears  to  be  returning  to  its  ancient  prosperity.  Since 
the  days  of  the  Romans  and  Charlemagne,  it  has  been 
celebrated  as  a  watering-place,  and  is  annually  frequent- 
ed by  many  thousand  visitors. 

The  Hotel  de  Ville  (llathhaus),  in  thu  great  market- 
place, is  a  vast  and  somewhat  imposing  building.  Strang- 
ers generally  become  acquainted  with  it  when  they  re- 
pair thither  to  have  their  passports  signed  in  the  Police 
Office,  situated  in  the  right  wing,  near  a  small  tower, 
said  erroneously  to  be  of  Roman  origin,  and  called  the 
Tower  of  Granus.  The  Rathhaus  occupies  the  site  of 
the  palace  in  which  Charlemagne  was  born  ;  it  is  re- 
markable as  the  place  of  meeting  of  the  two  Congresses 
of  1718  and  1818.  In  the  grand  saloon  on  the  second 
floor,  where  the  conferences  are  held,  are  shown  some 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


183 


bad  pictures  of  the  members  of  the  congress  collectively, 
and  some  equally  bad  portraits  of  the  ministers  and  sove. 
reigns  who  assisted  at  them  ;  among  them,  that  of  Lord 
Sandwich,  the  English  minister,  is  conspicuous.      The 
smaller  room  on.  the  same  floor  was   occupied  by  Sir 
Thomas  Lawrence  as  a   painting-room  in  1818,  while 
painting  the  portraits  of  the  sovereigns  and  other  emi- 
nent persons  thori  assembled,  for  the  gallery  at  Windsor. 
In  the  centre  of  the  square  is  a  fountain,  surmounted 
by  the  bronze  statue  of  the  Emperor  Charlemagne.     It 
appears  to  have  been  erected  at  the  same  time  as  tho 
Rathhaus,  in  1353, 

The  position  of  the  Tomb,  in  which  once  reposed  the 
mortal  remains  of  Charlemagne,  is  marked  by  a  large 
slab  of  marble  under  the  centre  of  the  dome,  inscribed 
with  the  words,  "  Carolo  Magno."     A  massive  brazen 
chandelier  hangs  above  it,  the  gift  of  the  Emperor  Fred- 
erick Barbarossa.  The  vault  below  is  now  empty,  having 
been  opened  by  the  Emperor  Otho  in  997.     He  found 
the  body  of  Charlemagne  not  reclining  in  his  coffin,  as  is 
the  usual  fashion  of  the  dead,  but  seated  in  his  throne  as 
one  alive,  clothed  in  the  imperial  robes,  bearing  the  scep- 
tre in  his  hand,  and  on  his  knees  a  copy  of  the  Gospels. 


184 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


On  his  flcshless  brow  was  the  crown,  the  imperial  man- 
tle covered  his  shoulders,  the  sword  Joyeuse  was  by  his 
side,  and  the  pilgrim's  pouch,  which  he  had  borne  al- 
ways while  living,  was  still  fastened  to  his  girdle.     All 
thcfae  venerable  relics  were  removed,  and  used  in  the  cor- 
onation ceremonies  of  succeeding  Emperors  of  Germany. 
They    are    now   deposited    at   Vienna.     The  throne,  in 
which  the  body  of  Charlemagne  was  seated,  alone  re- 
mains ;  it  is  placed  in  the  gallery  running  round  the  oc- 
tagon, facing  the  choir.      It  is  an  arm-chair,  in  shape 
somewhat  like  that  of  Edward  the  Confessor,  in  West- 
minster Abbey,  but  made  of  slabs  of  white  marble,  which, 
during  the  coronation,  were  covered  with  plates  of  gold. 
It  is  protected  by  wooden  boards,  which  the  sacristan  will 
remove  to  satisfy  a  stranger's  curiosity.     The  front  of  the 
gallery  was  originally  adorned  with  32  pillars  of  granite 
and  porphyry,  brought  by  Charlemagne  from  the  Ex- 
arch's Palace  at  Ravenna,  and  partly  from  the  East : 
these  were  somewhat  wantonly  removed  by  the  French, 
and  as  only   a  part  of  them  have  been  returned  from 
Paris,  they  have  not  been  replaced.     In  front  of  some  of 
the  side  chapels  may  be  seen  small  models  in  coarse  wax, 
of  arms,  legs,  and  other  parts  of  the  human  body,  hung  up 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


185 


as  votive  offerings  by  poor  people,  who  believe  that  mala- 
dies in  their  limbs  have  been  cured  by  the  interposition 
of  the  Saint  to  whose  altars  they  dedicate  these  gifts.  In 
the  side  chapel,  dedicated  to  St.  Nicholas,  stands  an  an- 
tique sarcophagus  of  Parian  marble,  the  work  of  Roman 
or  Greek  artists,  ornamented  with  a  fine  bas-relief  of  the 
Rape  of  Proserpine  :  the  feet  of  the  dead  Charlemagne 
originally  rested  in  it,  within  his  tomb." 

And  here  are  some  of  the  Reliques  of  an  ancient  order 
and  date,  to  believe  in  all  which  a  man  must  have  an  iron 
stomach  to  digest  the  tough  with  the  soft. 

"  The  Grandes  Reliques  are  publicly  shown  to  the  people 
only  once  in  7  years,  from  the  15th  to  the  27th  of  July. 
So  sacred  was  this  ceremony  held,  and  so  hi/rh  was  the 
privilege  esteemed  of  obtaining  a  glimpse  of  them,  that  in 
former  times  no  fewer  than  150,000  pilgrims  resorted  to 
the  spot  from  all  parts  on  this  occasion ;  and  even  so 
lately  as  in  1839,  the  last  aniversary,  the  number  of 
pious  visitors  exceeded  60,000.  These  relics  were  pre- 
sented to  Charlemagne  by  the  Patriarch  of  Jerusalem, 
and  by  Aaron  king  of  Persia.  They  are  deposited  in  a 
rich  shrine  of  silver  gilt,  the  work  of  artists  of  the  9th 
century,  and  consist  of— 1.     The  robe  worn  by  the  Vir- 


186 


EUROPE.VN  OBSERVATIONS. 


■ 


giti  at  the  Nativity  ;  it  is  of  cotton,  5  feet  long. — 2.  The 
swaddling-clothes  on  which  Jesus  was  wrapped  ;  they 
are  of  cloth,  as  coarse  as  sacking,  of  a  yellow  color. — 3. 
The  cloth  on  which  the  head  of  John  the  Baptist  was 
laid. — 4.  The  scarf  worn  by  our  Saviour  at  the  Cruci- 
fixion, bearing  stains  of  blood.  Intermixed  with  these 
religious  reliques  are  many  curious  antique  gems,  some 
Babylonian  cylinders,  and  tlie  like,  which  serve  as  jewels 
to  ornament  the  saintly  treasury.  The  fee  for  seeing  all 
these  wonders  amounts  to  about  10s.  English." 

Here  for  the  first  time  the  people  recognized  me  as  be- 
ing the  Indian  from  America.  They  came  and  stood  in 
groups  just  by,  and  watched  me  as  I  paced  the  platform 
of  the  station. 

As  we  now  leave  for  Cologne  I  am  so  tired  and  sleepy 
I  shall  treat  myself  with  a  short  rest  for  my  eyes — and 
awake  a  few  miles  from  Cologne. 

Having  arrived.  Here  is  a  crowd,  and  while  I  was 
looking  after  myself,  I  heard  some  one  naming  me  by 
name,  and  from  the  crowd  of  Germans  too.  On  looking 
up  I  saw  James  Buchanan  Read  of  Philadelphia,  the 
Painter  Poet.  And  stretching  his  long  arm  he  pulled  me 
to  him,  and  soon  introduced  me  to  another  Poet,  Charles 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


187 


Close,  the  cotemporary  of  Mr.  Frielegarth,  the  Poet. 
I  received  a  message  of  apologies  for  his  inability  of 
seeing  me.  But  I  am  at  home,  for  here  is  a  young  Amer- 
ican,  tall  and  lean  as  a  staff-post.  I  wandered  about 
with  them  by  moonlight,  and  gazed  with  wonder  on  the 
curiosities  of  the  place. 
This  is  a  noted  place. 

I  will  give  a  short  notice  of  it  gathered  from  the  items 
of  my  travels. 

•'  Cologne  is  a  fortified  town  of  65,000  inhabitants,  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  Rhine,  connected  by  a  bridge  of 
boats  with  the  fortress  and  suburb  of  Deutz,  which  has 
3700  inhabitants.  It  is  the  largest  and  wealthiest  city 
on  the  Rhine,  and  has  recently  been  made  a  free  port. 

Cologne  owes  its  existence  to  a  camp  pitched  here,  by 
the  Romans,  under  Marcus  Agrippa,  which  was  after- 
wards enlarged  and  rendered  permanent  by  the  removal 
(under  Tiberius)  of  a  native  tribe,  called  the  Ubii,  from 
the  right  bank  of  the  Rhine,  an  event  njpntioned  by 
Tacitus  (Ann.  I.  3G),  and  by  their  settlement  on  the  left 
bank,  at  the  spot  now  occupied  by  Cologne.  This  first 
city  was  called  Civitas  Ubiorum.  More  than  80  years 
after,  Agrippina,  mother  of  Nero,  and  wife  of  Claudius, 


188 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


■ 


who  was  herself  born  here,  sent  hither  a  colony  of  Ro- 
man veterans,  and  gave  to  it  her  own  name,  calling  it 
Colonia  Agrippina.  A  part  Only  of  its  ancient  appella- 
tion is  retained  in  the  modern  name  of  Cologne. 

!n  the  middle  ages,  from  its  wealth,  power,  and  ihe 
considerable  ecclcciastical  foundations  of  its  bishops,  it 
was  often  called  the  Rome  of  the  North. 

The  object  which  first  claims  attention  here  is  the 
Cathedral  (Dom  Kirche),  which,  though  begun  in  1218, 
during  the  reign  of  the  Elector  and  Archbishop  of  Co- 
logne, Conrad  of  Hochstedten,  has  remained  up  to  the 
present  time  in  a  condition  between  a  fragment  and  a 
ruin.  Had  the  original  plan  been  completed,  (views  of 
the  intended  edifice  are  to  be  procured,)  it  would  have 
been  the  St.  Peter's  of  Gothic  architecture.  Even  in. 
its  present  state,  it  is  one  of  the  finest  Gothic  monuments 
in  Europe.  It  is  to  be  regretted  that  the  name  of  the 
architect  who  commenced  and  planned  it,  is  not  with 
certainty  aso^rtained  ;  as  he  deserved  to  be  recorded,  who 
conceived  so  splendid  a  structure.  The  two  principal 
towers,  according  to  the  original  designs,  were  to  have 
been  raised  to  the  height  of  500  feet.  That  which  is 
most  finished  at  present  is  not  above  one  third  of  the 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS.  189 

height.     Oa  its  top  still  remains  the  crane  employed  by 
the  masons  to  raise  the  stones  for  the  building.     And  it 
has  stood  for  centuries.     It  was  onco  taken  down,  but  a 
tremendous  thunder-storm,  which  oc    arred  soon  after,  wag 
attributed  to  its  removal  by  the  superstitious  citizens,  and 
it  was  therefore  instantly  replaced,  or  a  similar  one  set 
up  in  its  stead.     It  is  well  that  it  should  remain,  as  it 
looks  as  though  the  present  generation  had  not  entirely 
abandoned  the  notion  of  resuming  and  completing  the 
structure. 

The  King  of  Prussia,  whose  taste  for  the  arts,  and  zeal 
for  the  preservation  of  ancient  edifices,   is  equal  to  his 
liberality,  has  for  many  years  past  expended  a  considera- 
ble  sum  upon  it :  this,   however,  has  been  employed  not 
in  advancing  the  edifice,  but  in  repairing  dilapidations, 
and  preserving  what  is  built,  from  the  ruin  into  which  it 
threatened  to  fall  owing  to  previous  neglect.     The  resto- 
ration? and  repairs  are  conducted  in  a  masterly  and  most 
workmanlike  manner ;  the  faulty  stone  of  the  Drachen- 
fels  has  been   replaced  by  another  of  a  sounder  texture  ; 
and  the  new  sculpture  and  masonry  are  at  least  equal  to 
those  displayed  in  the  original  edifice,  while,  as  mechani- 
cal  science  has  made  vast  strides  since  the  building  was 


11 


100 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


founded,  it  is  evident  that  money  alone  is  wanting  to 
complete  it.  It  is  well  worth  while  to  ascend  the  scaf- 
folding, both  to  view  closely  the  details  of  the  restora- 
tions, and  to  enjoy  the  view. 

The  entire  length  of  the  body  of  the  church  is  400  ft., 
and  its  breadth  IGl. 

In  a  small  chapel  immediately  behind  the  high  altar 
is  ^he  celebrat'^d  Shrine  of  the  Three  Kings  of  Colog  >e, 
or  Magi,  who  came  from  the  East  with  presents  for  the 
infant  Saviour.     Their  bones  were  obtained  from  Milan 
by  the  Emperor  Frederic  Barbarosrsa,  when  he  took  that 
city  by  storm,  and  were  presented   by  him  to  the  then 
bishop   of  Cologne,  who  had  accompanied   him   on  his 
warlike  expedition.     The  case  or  coffin  in  which  they 
are    deposited    is    of  solid    silver    gilt,    and    curiously 
wrought,    surrounded    by   small   arcades,    supported   on 
inlaid    pillars,    and    by    figures    of  the    Apostles    and 
Prophets.     The  vast  treasures  which  once  decorated  it, 
were  sadly  diminished  at  the  time  of  the  French  revolu- 
tion, when  the  shrine  and  its  contents  were  transported 
for   safety  by  the  Chapter,  to  Arnsberg,  in  Westphalia. 
Many  of  the  jewels  were  sold  to  maintain  the  persons 
who    ccompanied  it,  and  have  been  replaced  by  paste  or 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


191 


giass   imitations;    but    the    precious    stones,    the   gcmj, 
cameos,  and  rich  enamels  which  still  remain,  will  give  a 
fair  notion  of  its  riches  and  magnificence  in  its  original 
state,  while  those  among  them  of  Babylonish  origin,  visi- 
ble here  as  at  Aix,  afford  wide  scope  for  curious  inquiry. 
The   skullrf   of  the    three  kings,  inscribed  with   their 
n^mo^—Gaspar,  Melchior,  and  Balthazer—wniien  in 
rubies,  are  exhibited  to  view  through  an  opening  in  the 
eli.ine,    crowned    with    diadems    (a    ghastly    contrast), 
which  were  of  gold,  and  studded    -.'ith  real  jewels,  but 
are  now  only   silver  gilt.     Among  the  antiques  still  re- 
maining are  two,  of  Leda,  and  Cupid  and  Psyche,  highly 
beautiful,  but  singularly  inappropriate  to  their  present 
position. 

Those  who  show  the  tomb  assert  that  its  treasures  are 
still  worth  six  millions  of  francs=  240,000^. ;  this  is  an 
exaggeration,  no  doubt. 

This  shrine  is  opened  to  the  public  gaze  on  Sundays 
and  festivals  ;  but  those  who  desire  to  see  it  at  other 
times,  or  to  have  a  nearer  and  more  minute  view  of  it, 
must  apply  to  the  sacristan,  and  pay  a  fp^  reduced  from 
2  thalers  to  1  th.  16  S.  gr.  (=6  fr.),  which  admits  a 
party." 


192 

EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS 

. 

Here 

one  might  remain  a  week  or  more 

and  not  get 

to 

the  end 

of  those  curiosities  which  it  does 

pay  a  man 

for 

viewing 

We  leave  it  for  the  present. 

I-  « 1 
f>     I 

fi 


mm 
mm 


CHAPTER  Xy. 


THE   HHINE. 


The  fatigues  of  yesterday  rest  heavily  upon  my  eye- 
lids,  and    it   is  with  difficulty  that  I    raise  them,  this 


morning. 


My  friend  J.   B.  R.  is  still  a  slave  of  Morpheus,  yet 
his  arms  are  partly  free  and  he  shook  hands  with  me. 

It  is  the  21st  of  August.  Daylight  was  long  since 
ahout  me.  The  hoat  on  which  I  am  a  passenger  is  a 
long,  narrow  affair,  with  no  covering  of  any  account, 
and  is  quite  full  if  rot  more.  Just  below  us  is  the  re- 
nowned  "  Bridge  of  Boats."  An  army  of  boats,  side  by 
side,  extending  from  one  side  of  the  river  to  the  other, 
and  aflbrding  passage  for  pedestrians,  coaches  and  carts. 

Now  we  are  oft:  Ah,  here  is  a  man  whom  I  met  in 
Illinois  in  '37.  The  Rev.  Mr.  Jacobus  a  German  gentle- 
man. I  find  he  does  not  recognize  me,  but  upon  nearer 
approach  he  greets  me  as  an  old  acquaintance. 

9 


194 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


11 


Having  met  a  gentleman  so  replete  with  intelligence, 
I  must  not  fail  to  obtain  liiin  as  an  interpreter.     He  nar- 
rates to  me  his  adventures,  which  interest  me  very  much. 
From  Cologne  for  many  miles  the  country  is  flat,  vni 
the  scenery  very  monotonous. 

The  first  considerable  town  we  reach  is  Bonn,  cele- 
brated for  its  university,  library,  and  being  the  place 
where  it  is  said  Beethoven  lived. 

An  ancient-looking  place  it  is  too.  The  sketches  of 
history  and  descriptions  given  to  my  readers — that  they 
may  judge  of  it,  for  themselves. 

"  Bonn,  a  town  of  12,000  inhabitants,  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Rhine,  is  chiefly  remarkable  for  its  University,  es- 
tablished by  the  King  of  Prussia,  in  1818,  which  has  al- 
ready attained  a  high  reputation  on  the  Continent, 
owing  to  the  improved  discipline  maintained  among  the 
students,  and  to  the  discernment  exercised  by  the  govern- 
ment in  the  appointment  of  professors.  Among  those 
who  have  already  filled  chairs  here,  the  most  distinguish- 
ed are  Niebuhr  (now  dead)  and  Schlegel.  The  number 
of  students  amounts  to  720. 

The  Electors  of  Cologne  formerly  resided  here,  having 
removed  their  court  hither  from  Cologne  in  1268  ;  their 


ill; 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


195 


Palace  now  serves  to  contain   the  University  ;  it  is  of 
immense  size,  with  a  facade  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
long,  and  includes  the  Lecture-rooms,  Library  of  about 
100,000   volumes,    and  the  Academical    Hall,  recently 
decorated   with  frescos,  painted  under  the  direction  of 
Cornelius,  a  living  artist,  by  his  pupils.     The  subjects 
are  the  four  faculties.  Philosophy,  Jurisprudence,  Medi- 
cine, in  which  Cuvier  and  Linnaeus  are  conspicuous,  and 
Theology,    where  Luther,  Calvin,  Wickliffe,  St.  Jerome 
and  the  Fathers,    and  Ignatius  Loyola,    and   other   di- 
vines,  both    Catholic    and    Protestant,    are    introduced. 
The   artist  who  painted  the   Philosophy  seems  to  have 
shown  undue  favor  to  his  own  countrymen  :  thus,  Homer 
appears   sadly   in  the  background   in  comparison   with 
Wieland  and  Herder  ;  Goethe  is  made  prominent,  at  the 
expense  of  Shakspeare  and  Dante,  who  hold  very  subor- 
dinate situations  and  are  very  indistinctly  defined  ;  Vir- 
gil and  Aristotle  are  sadly  eclipsed  by  others  of  the  mod- 
erns ;  while  Bacon,  Socrates,  and  Cicero,  are  in  a  great 
degree  thrown  into  the  shade. 

The  same  building  contains  the  Museum  of  Rhenish 
Antiquities,  a  very  large  and  interesting  assemblage  of 
local  remains  discovered  on  the  banks  of  the  Rhine,  and 


I 


196 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


relics  of  Roman  settlements  in  this  part  of  Germany. 
They  are  placed  under  the  care  of  the  veteran  Professor 
Schlegel,  to  whom  application  must  be  made  for  a  ticket 
of  admission.  It  is  much  to  be  lamented  that  the  collec- 
tion is,  as  yet,  neither  named  nor  catalogued.  The  fol- 
lowing seem  to  be  the  most  remarkable  objects  : — A  Ro- 
man altar,  dedicated  to  Victory,  which  formerly  stood  in 
the  square,  called  Romer  Platz,  and  is  supposed  by  some 
to  be  the  identical  Ara  Abiorum  mentioned  by  Tacitus 
(Annal.  I.  30.)  A  bronze  vase,  bearing  figures  of  Her- 
cules, Mars,  and  Venus,  in  a  pure  style  of  art,  found  at 
Zulpich.  Numerous  weapons,  trinkets,  vases,  glass  ves- 
sels, a  winged  head  of  Mercury,  found  at  Hadernheim ; 
the  gravestone  of  one  M.  CedUus,  who  fell  in  the  great 
battle  of  Varus  (hello  Variano),  against  Arminus  (?  if 
genuine) ; — Jupiter's  wig,  and  thunderbolt  of  bronze,  from 
the  Hundsruck  ;  tiles  stamped  with  the  numbers  of  seve- 
ral Roman  legions  (xxi.  xxii.)  stationed  in  these  parts  ; 
a  Roman  mill-stone  of  Mendig  tufa,  and  an  ancient  Ger- 
man shield  of  wood,  dug  up  at  Isenburg,  in  Westphalia, 
besides  200  bronzes. 

An  avenue  of  chestnuts,  about  half  a  mile  long,  form- 
ing an  agreeable  walk,  conducts  to  the  Chateau  of  Pop- 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


197 


pelsdorf,  which  has  also  been  appropriated  by  the  King 
to  the  use  of  the  University,  and  contains  the  Museum 
of  Natural  History.  The  collection  of  minerals  and  fos- 
sils is  particularly  extensive  and  good,  and  especially  in- 
teresting, as  illustrating  the  geology  of  the  Rhine,  and 
of  the  volcanic  deposits  of  the  Siebengebirge  and  Eifel ; 
arranged  by  Professor  Goldfuss.  Among  the  fossil  re- 
mains may  be  seen  a  complete  series  from  the  brown 
coal  formation  of  Friesdorf,  near  Bonn.  A  set  of  fossil 
frogs,  from  the  most  perfect  state  down  to  that  of  a  tad- 
pole, discovered  in  the  shale  called  paper-coal,  deserves 
notice.  Attached  to  the  chateau  is  the  Botanic  Garden 
— very  spacious,  very  rich,  beautifully  situated,  and  ad- 
mirably kept. 

The  Minster,  surmounted  by  five  towers,  is  a  stately 
building  externally,  in  the  older  or  round-arched  Gothic 
style  ;  the  interior  is  very  plain.  It  was  founded  in  320, 
by  Helena,  mother  of  Constantine  the  Great,  and  con- 
tains a  bronze  statue  of  her.  The  choir,  with  its  two 
towers,  the  crypt  and  the  cloisters,  date  probably  from 
1151  ;  the  rest  of  the  church  is  later,  probably  1270. 

Beethoven,  the  composer,  was  born  in  the  house  No. 
934,   Rhein  Strasse,     A   monument  is  erected  to  his 


I 


198 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


memory  in  the  Market-place.  In  the  church-yard  out- 
side the  Sternen  Thor  Niebuhr,  the  historian  is  buried. 
Here  also  arc  the  graves  of  several  students  killed  in  duels. 

The  most  notable  events  in  the  annals  of  Bonn,  are  its 
capture  after  a  long  siege,  in  1584,  by  Archbishop  Ernest 
of  Bavaria,  from  Gebhard  Truchsess,  who  had  been  de- 
posed from  the  see,  because  he  had  become  a  Protestant ; 
and  its  surrender  to  the  English  and  Dutch  army  under 
Marlborough,  in  1703,  after  a  siege  the  operations  of 
which  were  conducted  by  the  celebrated  Coehorn.  In 
the  course  of  it  a  great  part  of  the  town  was  burnt. 

At  Bonn  the  beauties  of  the  Rhine  may  be  said  to 
have  already  commenced." 

But,  the  scenery  it  is  said  commences  at  about  20 
miles  above  Cologne.  And  now  it  is  in  view  I  Grand 
and  lofty  hills  or  mountains  rise  from  the  water's  edge. 
The  seven  mountains  are  now  around  us.  And  really  I 
am  now  on  the  Rhine.  A  reality,  yet  like  a  fairy 
dream.  About  this  river  I  have  heard  and  read  a  great 
deal.  History,  romance,  and  song,  dwell  along  these 
banks.    The  towering  clifis  frown  down  the  works  of  man. 

These  hills  bear  on  their  points  the  ruins  of  palaces 
and  fortifications.     Crumbling  they  loiter  down  to   the 


EUKOPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


199 


very  edge  of  the  water.     Towers  appear  on  our  right 
and  on  our  left. 

Ages   have  rolled  on  the  ye  irs,    and  every    year  has 
added  interest  to  the  events  already  recorded. 

0  !  beautiful  !  As  we  turn  from  one  point  of  view 
to  another,  every  variety  of  scenery  is  presented.  Along 
these  deep  valleys  are  fields  growing  with  the  grape,  and 
harvest.  Every  hill  looks  down.  And  the  sides  of  the  banks 
seem  places  as  wild  as  any  scenery  in  America.  The 
hills  jutting  up  from  all  directions  present  new  features. 
Town  after  town,  city  after  city,  and  village,  cluster  on 
the  edge  of  the  banks. 

Eveiy  point  of  land  has  with  it  associations  which  the 
traveller  beholds  with  a  great  deal  of  interest.  Legends, 
and  notions  of  superstition  are  creeping  into  the  ideas  of 
people  even  here.  Our  guide-books  relate  to  us  many  a 
fabulous  story  connected  with  miracles  of  deliverance. 

Poetry  and  song.  Over  this  river  each  sweet  strain 
has  exliausted  itself  The  Germans  rightly  think  that 
tliero  is  only  one  Rhine  in  the  world.  We  give  them 
credit  for  love  of  country,  and  we  ask  them  the  same, 
when  we  say  it  would  take  twenty-five  or  thirty  such 
rivers  to  make  one  Mississippi  I 


200 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVA'flONS. 


When  any  nation  comes  to  boasting  of  ri^'ers,  we  have 
one  too  that  could  swallow  all  the  German  rivers  at 
once. 

Along  these  banks  in  profusion  lay  the  fragments  of 
ancient  glory.  The  thirty  years'  war  has  left  its  sad  me- 
morials along  its  shore.  Armies  have  stood  gazing  at 
each  other  from  bank  to  bank.  These  high  hills  have 
been  clothed  with  mailed  warriors.  Furious  they  have 
rushed  on  against  one  another,  and  blood  has  rolled  on, 
and  mingled  in  the  stream. 

The  armies  of  the  Romans  have  made  these  shores 
rumble  with  their  tread  ;  their  voice  has  echoed  along  its 
bank, 

0  thou  river  of  majestic  beauty,  and  grandeur  I  A  tale 
couldst  thou  unfold,  if  but  to  mortal  ears  thy  silent  waters 
could  only  speak.  Undisturbed  kings  repose  along  thy 
shore,  and  no  voice  nor  shout  shall  ever  wake  them  to 
battle  again.  Thy  waters  they  have  disturbed.  Thy 
glens  they  have  loaded  with  their  gains,  and  defaced  thy 
natural  walls.  Lofty  and  giant  trees  waved  on  high  their 
proud  and  shaggy  tops,  where  now  whisper  the  leaves  of 
the  vine.  I  would  be  willing  to  linger  on  thy  shore, 
could  the  scene  which  nations  have  acted  be  once  more 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


201 


brought  in  view.  From  the  frozen  tops  of  the  Icy 
Alps,  thy  waters  drip,  and  gently  roll.  Along  thy 
course,  Princes  bow  to  thee.  Till  lost  in  the  ocean  of 
immensity. 

0  !  see,  see  !  the  grand  peaks  of  the  hills  on  the  left.— 
Our  boat  whirls  from  eddy  to  eddy.—The  company  gaze 
and  admire.  The  long  and  narrow  steamer  cuts  the 
water  without  much  noise. 

"  Bang,"  "  Bang,"  echoes  the  firing  of  a  gun  ;  and  the 
sound  rolls  back,  and  back  again,  from  side  to  side. 

This  is  done  at  every  steamer  that  passes  here,  for  the 
pleasure  of  travellers,  that  they  might  hear  the  sound. 

The  hills  gradually  rise  higher  and  higher.  We  have 
just  passed  the  palace  where  the  aueen  of  England  stay- 
ed  when  she  was  here  on  a  recent  visit.  Beautiful  pal- 
aces rest  on  the  sides  of  the  hills.  Old  ruins,  ivy-covered, 
lay  desolate  on  each  hill,  and  towers  leaning  to  the  water's 
edge.  Tales  and  Legends  are  told  at  each  crevice  of  the 
rocks.  Wonders  and  displays  of  miraculous  power,  and 
a  great  deal  of  superstition,  much  more  than  the  North 
American  Indians  ever  had. 

The  Germans  adore  this  river.     Its  historians,  J.  V. 

Muller,  Heeren,  Rotleck.  Ranke,  and  Winklemann.  have 

9* 


I 


202 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


left  on  their  shores  which  other  generations  will  see  and 
admire. 

Its  poets,  the  names,  Lessing,  Gessner,  Wieland,  Gil- 
lert,  Vass  Stolberg,  Guthe,  and  Schiller,  have  all  left  some- 
thing as  a  memento  of  their  fond  love  for  this  noble 
river. 

I  will  give  here  a  few  specimens  of  the  ardor  they  feel 
for  this  river,  by  a  German  writer  : — 

"  There  are  rivers,  whose  course  is  longer,  and  whose 
volume  of  water  is  greater,  but  none  which  unites  almost 
everything  that  can  render  an  earthly  object  magnificent 
and  charming,  in  the  same  degree  as  the  Rhine.  As  it 
flows  down  from  the  distant  ridges  of  the  Alps,  through 
fertile  regions  into  the  open  sea,  so  it  comes  down  from 
remote  antiquity,  associated  in  every  age  with  momen- 
tous events  in  the  history  of  the  neighboring  nations.  A 
river  which  presents  so  many  historical  recollections  of 
Roman  conquests  and  defeats,  of  the  chivalric  exploits  in 
the  feudal  periods,  of  the  wars  and  negotiations  of  modern 
times,  of  the  coronations  of  emperors,  whose  bones  repose 
by  its  side  ;  on  whose  borders  stand  the  two  grandest 
monuments  of  the  noble  architecture  of  the  middle  ages  ; 
whose  banks  present  every  variety  of  wild  and  picturesque 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


^»l 


203 


rocks,  thick  forests,  fertile  plains ;  vineyards,  sometimes 
gently  sloping,   sometimes   perched  among   lofty  crags, 
where  industry  has  won  a  domain  among  the  fortresses  of 
nature;    whose    banks   are   ornamented    with   populous 
cities,  flourishing  towns  and  villages,  castles  and  ruins, 
with  which  a   thousand    legends   are  connected;  with 
beautiful    and    romantic    roads,    and   salutary   mineral 
springs;    a  river  whose  waters  ofler  choice  fish,  as  its 
banks  ofler  the  choicest  wines ;  which,  in  its  course  of 
900  miles  aflxjrds  630  miles  of  uninterrupted  navigation, 
from  Basle  to  the  sea,  and  enables  the  inhabitants  of  its 
banks  to  exchange  the  rich  and  various  products  of  its 
shores ;  whose  cities,  famous  for  commerce,  science,  and 
works  of  strength,  which  furnish  protection  to  Germany, 
are  also  famous  as  the  seats  of  Roman  colonies,  and  of 
ecclesiastical  councils,  and  are  associated  with  many  of 
the  most  important  events  recorded  in  the  history  of  man- 
kind ;— such  a  river  it  is  not  surprising  that  the  Germans 
regard  with  a  kind  of  reverence,  and  frequently  call  in 
poetry  Father,  or  King  Rhme:' 

Just  before  us  is  the  rapid  below  Castell.  The  waters 
roar  here  in  great  commotion.  The  mountains  are  higher 
here  still,   and  before  night,  I  set  down  to  read  again 


I 


204 


EUROPEAX   ODSKUVATION'S. 


the  description  which  Byron  by  the  following  lines  hm 
immortalized  this  as  well  as  himself,  in  writing  the  fol- 
lowing description  of  this  beautifnl  and  strange  river. 

The   whn'e  day  I   have   spent  in  looking  over  these 
ruins,  and  the  erngs  everywhere  to  be  seen. 

On  llii!  banks  of  the  majestic  Rliino, 
There  Harohl  gazes  on  a  work  divine, 
A  blending  of  all  beauties  ;  streams  and  dells, 
Fruit,  foliage,  crag,  wood,  cornfield,  mountain,  vine. 
And  chiefless  castles  breathing  stern  farewells 
From  gray  but  leafy  walls,  where  Ruin  greenly  dwells. 

And  there  they  stand,  as  stands  a  lofty  mind, 
Worn,  but  unst     ping  to  the  baser  crowd, 
All  tenantless,  «vve  to  the  crannying  wind. 
Or  holding  dark  communion  with  the  cioud. 
There  was  a  day  when  they  were  young  and  proud, 
Banners  on  high,  and  battles  pass'd  below ; 
But  they  who  fought  are  in  a  bloody  shroud, 
And  those  which  waved  are  sh'redless  dust  e'er  now, 
And  the  bleak  battlements  shall  bear  no  future  blow. 

Beneath  these  battlements,  within  those  walls. 
Power  dwelt  amidst  her  passions  ;  in  proud  state 
Each  robber  chief  upheld  his  armed  halls, 
"^oing  his  evil  will,  nor  less  elate 
Than  mightier  heroes  of  a  Ioniser  date. 
What  want  these  outlaws  conquerors  should  have  ? 
But  History's  purchased  page  to  call  them  great  ? 
A  wider  space,  and  ornamented  f^rave  ? 
Tlieir  hopes  were  not  less  warm,  their  souls  were  full  as  brave. 


EUKOPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 

In  their  ban.iiiiil  fcudH  and  singlo  fieliln, 
What  ileeda  of  prowess  unrecorded  died  ! 
And  Love,  wl.ich  lent  a  l.Iazon  to  their  sliiclds, 
With  einblcnis  wll  devised  l,y  amorous  pride! 
Through  all  the  mad  of  iron  Iiearts  wouhl  glide; 
But  still  their  fla.uo  was  fier.  eness,  and  drew  on 
Keen  contest  and  destruction  near  allied, 
^  And  many  a  tower  for  some  fair  mischief  won, 
Saw  the  discolor'd  Rhine,  beneath  its  ruin  run. 

But  Thou,  exulting  and  al>ounding  river  ! 
Making  thy  waves  u  blessing  as  they  flow 
Through  banks  whose  beauty  would  endure  forever 
Could  man  but  leave  thy  bright  creation  so, 
Nor  its  fair  promise  from  the  surface  mow 
With  the  (*harp  scythe  of  conflict,— then  to  see 
Thy  valley  of  sweet  waters,  were  to  know 
Earth  paved  like  Heaven ;  and  to  seem  such  to  me, 
Even  now  what  wants  thy  stream  ?-that  it  should  Lethe  be. 

A  thousand  battles  have  aspail'd  thy  banks, 
But  these  and  half  their  fame  have  pass'daway. 
And  Slaughter  heap'd  on  high'  his  weltering  ranks : 
Their  very  graves  are  gone,  and  what  are  they  ? 
Thy  tide  wash'd  down  the  blood  of  yesterday, 
And  all  was  stainless,  and  on  thy  clear  stream 
Glass'd  with  its  dancing  light  the  sunny  ray  ; 
But  o'er  tlie  blacken'd  memory's  blighting  dream 
Thy  waves  would  vainly  roll,  all  sweeping  as  they  seem. 

Adieu  to  thee,  fair  Rhine  !  How  long  delighted 
The  stranger  fain  would  linger  on  his  way  ! 
Thine  is  a  scene  alike  where  souls  united 
Or  lonely  Contemplation  thus  might  stray ; 


205 


I 


206 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


And  could  the  ceaseless  vultures  cease  to  prey 
On  self-condemning  bosoms  it  were  here, 
Where  Nature,  nor  too  sombre,  nor  too  gay, 
Wild  but  not  rude,  awful  yet  not  austere. 
Is  to  the  mellow  earth  as  Autumn  to  the  year 

Adieu  to  thee  again  !  a  vain  adieu! 
There  can  be  no  farewell  to  scene  like  thine : 
The  mind  is  color'd  by  thy  every  hue  ; 
And  if  reluctantly  the  eyes  resign 
Their  cherish'd  gaze  upon  thee,  lovely  Rhine  1 
'Tis  with  the  thankful  glance  of  parting  praise ; 
More  jnighty  spots  may  rise — more  glaring  shine, 
But  none  unite  in  one  attaching  maze 
The  brilliant,  fair,  and  soft — the  glories  of  old  days. 

The  negligently  grand,  the  fruitful  bloom 
Of  coming  ripeness,  the  white  city's  sheen. 
The  rolling  stream,  the  precipice's  gloom. 
The  forest's  growth,  and  Gothic  walls  between, 
The  wild  rocks  shaped  as  they  had  turrets  been 
In  mockery  of  man's  art ;  and  these  withal 
A  race  of  faces  happy  as  the  scene. 
Whose  fertile  bounties  here  extend  to  all. 
Still  springing  o'er  thy  banks,  though  Empires  near  them  fall. 

Bykon. 

0  what  power  and  beauty  is  there  in  those  lines  after 
one  has  looked  on  this  majestic  river  ! 

The  night  intercepts  our  view.  The  towns  and  villa- 
ges of  the  Germans  show  their  lights  and  fires,  and  the 
city  of  Mayence  is  in  sight,  on  our  right ;  on  our  left  is 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


207 


the  fortified  town  of  Castell,  where  we  land  and  reluct- 
antly leave  our  boat,  and  20  miles  more  then  we  shall  be 
in  the  free  city  of  Frankfort. 

After  a  delay  of  two  hours  we  have  at  last  started, 
and  an  hour's  journey  or  more  we  are  in  Frankfort !  and 
only  4,300  miles  from  home.  But  thank  heaven  I  am 
safe. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


PEACE   CONGRESS. 


The  proceedings  of  the  Third  General  Peace  Congress, 
were  opened  on  Thursday,  the  22d  of  August,  1850,  at 
Franldbrt-on-the-Maine,  in  St.  Paul's  Church,  the  build- 
ing made  memorable  by  the  recent  meetings  of  the 
Frankfort  Parliament.  It  is  a  handsome  circular  build- 
ing, with  a  gallery  supported  by  marble  columns,  and 
wa>  fitted  up  in  its  present  state  for  the  German  Parlia- 
ment. Behind  the  President's  chair,  was  a  large  shield 
emblazoned  with  the  German  eagle,  whilst  above  the 
crimson  drapery  on  which  this  heraldic  decoration  rested, 
were  three  flags,  each  black,  crimson  and  gold.  The 
staves  surrounded  by  triumphal  wreaths.  The  aspect  of 
the  interior  of  St.  Paul's  Church  on  the  22d,  attracted, 
however,  much  less  attention  than  did  one  of  its  visitors, 
when  it  was  whispered  round  the  place  that  General 
Haynau  was  present. 


It     ! 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


209 


He  sat  for  some  time  near  one  of  tlie  side  doors,  listen- 
ing, apparently  with  much  attention,  but  left  before  the 
termination  of  the  proceeding's.  The  seats  lately  occu- 
pied by  the  members  of  the  Frankfort  Parliament,  were 
OH  the  present  occasion  filled  by  a  numerous  company, 
made  up  of  Germans,  Englishmen,  Americans,  French- 
men, and  Belgians.  The  seat  put  up  for  the  Archduke 
John,  and  subsequently  occupied  by  M.  Gagern,  was  now 
filled  by  the  President  (for  that  year)  of  the  Peace  Con- 
gress, Herr  Jaup,  late  Minister  of  Hesse-Darmstadt. 
There  were  about  500  English  present,  out  of  an  audi- 
ence of  2000. 

Among  the  delegates  to  the  meeting,  were  R.  Cobden, 
Esq.,  M.  P.  ;  Chas.  Hindley,  Esq.,  M.  P.  ;  Lawrence 
Hey  worth,  Esq.,  M.  P.  ;  Dr.  Lee,  F.  R.  S.  ;  Revs.  J. 
Burrett,  E.  Miall,  and  H.  Richards  ;  Elihu  Burritt,  Jo- 
seph  Stuvge,  J.  Wilson,  Dr.  Dick,  and  others,  from  Eng- 
land. The  list  of  American  deputies  included, — Massa- 
chusetts, Rev.  Mark  Trafton,  Boston,  Rev.  Dr.  Hitchcock, 
Rev.  Mr.  Sargent,  John  Tappan,  Esq.  ;  Maine,  Rev.  Da- 
vid Tliurston  ;  Rhode  Island,  Rev.  Dr.  Hall ;  New 
Hampshire,  Hon.  John  Prentiss  ;  Connecticut,  Rev.  G.  W. 
Pennington  ;    New  York,   G.  Williams,  Henry  Garret ; 


210 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


4  1 


Pennsylvania,  Prof.  CD.  Cleveland,  Samuel  Sartain ; 
Kentucky,  W.  H.  G.  Butler,  Patrick  Joyes ;  Missouri, 
Rev.  Dr.  Bullard,  and  from  the  North  American  Indians, 
the  Chief  Kah-ge-ga-gah-bowh,  or  Geo.  Cop  way,  in  cos- 
tume. From  Illinois,  T.  Eastman ;  Indiana,  A.  R.  For- 
syth ;  Michigan,  N.  H.  B.  Dowling  ;  American  Peace 
Society,  L,  S.  Jacobs. 

From  France  the  following  gentlemen  attended  :  M.  M. 
Cormenin,  ancien  depute,  member  of  the  French  Council 
of  State  ;  Emile  de  Girardin,  Editor  of  La  Presse  ;  Joseph 
Gamier,  Professor  of  Political  Economy ;  Guilaumin, 
Editor  of  the  Economht  ;  Coqueril,  fils  ;  Lacan,  Ernest, 
Pontonie,  fils.  From  Brussels,  M.  Visschers,  M.  Depeti- 
aux,  Inspector-General  of  Prisons  in  Belgium.  Germany 
contributed  delegates  from  Darmstadt,  Leipsic,  Wiesbaden, 
Mainx,  Homberg,  Bonn,  Giessen,  Frankfort,  and  other 
places. 

The  Congress  sat  three  days,  there  being  a  morning 
and  evening  session  each  day. 

The  correspondence  of  the  London  Times,  spoke  of  us 
— the  following : 

"A  North  American  Indian,  who  entered  with  the 
other  delegates,  but  who  has  not  yet  spoken,  was  received 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 

With  plaudits  almost  equal  to  those  which  hailed  the 
trance  of  Cobden." 


211 


en- 


FIRST   DAY. 

The  centre  of  St.  Paul's  Church  was  appropriated  to 
the  members  of  the  foreign  delegation,  and  to  the  Ger- 
man members  of  the  Congress;  the  galleries  both  on  the 
ground  floor  and  above,  being  accommodated  to  the  ac- 
commodation of  visitors,  among  whom  was  a  large  num- 
ber  of  ladies. 

The  business  of  the  Congress  commenced  each  day  at 
ten  o'clock,  A.  M.  The  first  resolution  submitted  to  the 
Congress,  was  to  the  following  eflect  :_ 

"  The  Congress  of  the  friends  of  Universal  Peace,  as- 
sembled at  Frankfort-on-the-Main,  on  the  22d,  23d,  and 
24th  of  August.  1850,  acknowledge  that  recourse  to  arms 
being  condemned  alike  by  religion,  morality,  reason,  and 
humanity,  it  is  the  duty  of  all  men  to  adopt  measures  cal- 
culated to  abolish  war ;  and  the  Congress  recommends 
all  its  members  to  labor  in  their  respective  Countries  by 
means  of  a  better  education  of  youth,  by  the  pulpit,  the 
platform,  and  the  press,  as  well  as  by  other  practical 
methods  to  eradicate  those  hereditary  hatreds,  and  politi- 


212 


cal  and 


EUROPEAN   OBSEUVATIOXS. 


il 


,'hich  hr 


been 


com  men 
rally  the  cause  of  disastrous  wars." 

The  followinjT  nicinbers  spoke  in  favor  of  this  resolu- 
tion, which  was  carried  by  a  unanimous  vote.  The  R(!V. 
John  Burrelt,  T-e  Pasttor,  Bonnet  of  Paris,  M.  de  Car- 
menin,  of  Paris  ;  H.  J.  Garret,  of  New  York,  (whose  ap- 
pearance, he  bein«T  of  a  pure  negro  blood,  excited  consid- 
arable  sensation  and  interest.) 

The  second  resolution,  as  follows,  was  presented  in  a 
speech  of  great  power  by  M.  Visschers,  of  Brussels. 

"  This  Congress  is  of  opinion  that  one  of  the  most  ef- 
fectual means  of  preserving  peace,  would  be  for  Govern- 
ments to  refer  to  arbitration  all  those  diilerences  between 
them  which  cannot  otherwise  be  amicably  settled." 

This  was  supported  by  M.  Bach,  of  Darmstadt ;  M. 
Mourch,  of  Franklbrt ;  M.  Emile  de  Girardin  (this  gentle- 
man rising  to  reply  to  some  difficulties  which  had  been 
suggested  in  the  practical  application  of  arbitration)  ; 
Prof.  Cleveland,  of  the  United  States ;  and  Richard  Cob- 
den,  M.  P. 

Mr.  Cobden  said  it  was  not  his  intention  to  have  spoken 
that  day,  but  he  must  say  a  word  or  two  on  the  supposed 
difficulties  of  arbitration.     No  doubt  there  were  difficul- 


P 


EUROPEAN   OnSEUVATlONS. 


213 


ties— but  were  tlioro  not  diflicultios  i„  war  loo  ?    and 
wlmt  he  wished  to  put  before  tlio  dii.lomatists  of  Europe 
and  America  was,  which  of  these  dilheulties  will  you 
choose— war  or  arbitration  ?     One  of  theui  it  must  be  ; 
ibr  you  confess  that  neither  your  diplomacy,  nor  your  me- 
diation enable  you  to  settle  your  (luarrels— {renerally  about 
some  point  of  etiquette  or  trumpery  debt  of  a  few  thou- 
sand  pounds.     What  ho  wanted  was,  if  the   peoj.le  of 
England  or  America  saw  their  Governments  again  iuvol- 
vcd  in  a  quarrel  with  some  weaker  power,  whether  on 
the  shores  of  Portugal  or  Greece,  and  refusing  the  ofler 
made  by  sucli  a  power  to  settle  the  dispute  by  arbitration, 
but  resorting  to  the  sword  to  enforce  their  demands,  then 
he   did  hope  that  the  people  would  drive  such  govern- 
ments from  power,  and  supply  their  places  with  men 
who  would  do  the  business  in  a  more  workmanlike  man- 
ner.    Mr.   Cobden   alluded    to    the  progress  whi(rh  tho 
Peace  cause  had  made  during  the  past  year,  and  said 
that  two  remarkable  illustrations  of  this  progress  had  oc- 
curred in  the  last  peace   meethig  which   he  attended  in 
London,  and  in  the  meeting  which  he  was  then  address- 
ing at  Frankfort.     At  the  meeting  in  London  ho  sat  side 
by  side  with  General  Klapka,  the  general  who  had  un- 


214 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


successfully  fought  the  battles  in  Hungary.  At  the  meet- 
ing of  this  present  Congress,  at  Frankfort,  no  less  a  person 
than  General  Haynau  had  for  some  time  occupied  a  place 
among  the  visitors  (General  H.  had  left  the  hall  before 
Mr.  Cobden  rose  to  speak).  He  (Mr.  C.)  thought  it  very 
significant,  when  they  found  at  their  meetings  such  men 
as  the  military  leaders,  both  of  liberty  and  despotism.  It 
incited  in  these  men's  minds  something  like  the  davv^n  of 
a  suspicion  that  their  own  profession  was  not  of  the  most 
stable  and  satisfactory  character.     (Cheers). 

THE    SECOND   DAY. 

diaries  Ilindley,  Esq.  proposed  the  second  resolution  : 
"  That  the  standing  armaments  with  which  the  govern- 
ments of  Europe  menace  one  another  impose  intolerable 
burdens  and  inflict  grievous  moral  and  social  evils  upon 
their  respective  communities  ;  this  Congress  cannot  there- 
fore too  earnestly  call  the  attention  of  governments  to 
the  necessity  of  entering  upon  a  system  of  international 
disarmament,  without  prejudice  to  such  measures  as  may 
be  considered  necessary  for  the  maintenance  of  the  secu- 
rity of  the  citizens  and  the  internal  tranquillity  of  each 
State." 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS.  215 

The  Hon.  gentletian  brought  forwar.'  a  vast  body  of 
statistics,  with  a  view  to  show  that  war  had  always  con- 
tributed  to  national  ruin,  for  which  reason  it  was  necessa- 
ry  to  abolish  the  existing  standing  armies,  the  prime 
cause  of  war.  He  expressed  the  belief  that  the  time 
would  arrive  at  which  national  hatred  would  cease  and 
all  men  be  brethren. 

Mr.  Hindley  was  loudly  apjilauded. 
The  Rabbi  Stein,  of  Frankfort,  said  that  war  ought 
not  to  be  admitted,  even  in  self  defence,  as  the  limit  at 
which  self-defence  began  would  be  difficult  to  define. 

Instead,  he  remarked,  of  making  weapons  of  war,  let 
men  be  employed  in  cultivating  land,  and  if  Europe 
were  not  large  enough,  there  was  America.  Let  the 
governments  of  Europe,  instead  of  dividing  men  by  the 
sword,  employ  them  in  making  railways. 

M.  Joseph  Gamier  showed  that  permanent  armies 
render  unproductive  a  great  part  of  the  force  of  man, 
and  that  consequently  armies  diminish  the  welfare  of 
societies.  He  showed  also  that  the  governments,  by 
standing  armies,  are  obliged  to  crush  the  people  by  taxa- 
tion. 

The  Rev.  Mr.  Buller  of  the  fc.xte  of  Missouri,  dwelt 


216 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


oil  the  fact  that  the  United  ^States  has  no  permanent 
army,  though  they  were  larger  than  any  European 
State. 

M.  Emile  de  Gimrdin,  next  spoke.  He  remarked 
that  the  immense  sums  which  armies  had  cost  would 
have  enabled  great  works  of  peace  to  be  accomplished, 
and  all  social  problems  to  be  solved.  After  the  revolu- 
tion of  February,  he  had,  he  sai-  oricd  "  Disarm,  dis- 
arm I  Have  confidence  in  the  justice  of  our  cause,  and 
in  the  sentiments  of  all  the  nations  of  Europe."  But  ho 
had  not  been  listened  to,  and  had  been  accused  of 
treason.  Well,  two  armies  had  been  sent  to  the  Ehine 
and  the  Alps,  and  what  glory  had  Frenchmen  gained  ? 
They  had  given  themselves  two  enemies — misery  and 
hunger,  and  had  lighted  up  war  in  their  streets. 

Mr.  Cobdcn  said  that  standing  armies  were  more  dan- 
gerous in  peace  than  in  war.  War  was  a  state  of  mad- 
ness and  passion  for  which  some  excuse  might  be  made, 
but  a  standing  armament  was  a  permanent  injustice. 

The  third  resolution  was  then  adopted. 

The  fourth  resolution  was  then  brought  forward.  It 
was  as  follow.s — 

"  This  Congress  reiterates  its  strong  disapprobation  of 


rmanent 
uropean 

smarked 
3t  would 
iplished, 
}  revolu- 
irm,  dis- 
■use,  and 
But  ho 
;used  of 
le  Rhine 
gained  ? 
iery    and 

lore  dan- 

of  mad- 

be  made, 

istice. 

vard.     It 
bation  of 


KUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS.  217 

all  foreign   loans  negotiated  for  the  purpose  of  furnishing 
to  one  people  the  means  of  slaughfning  another." 

M.  Druckcr  of  Amsterdam,  considered  that  the  par- 
ticipation  among  the  diflbrent  nations  of  twenty-five  mil- 
lions of  paper  money  was  a  powerful  guarantee  for 
peace. 

M.  E.  dc  airardm  said  that  certain  democrats  re- 
garded  war  as  the  only  means  of  reconquering  their  lost 
liberties,  but  the  money  he  thought  might  be  employed 
in  more  useful  purposes.  War  could  not  be  carried  on 
^vithout  means,  and  therefore  if  loans  of  money  were  re- 
fused  it  could  not  take  place  ;  he  should  therefore  support 
the  resolution. 

M.  Z.  de  Stettin  remarked  that  a  general  customs 
union  between  all  nations  of  the  world  would  be  the  best 
guarantee  against  war. 

The  fourth  resolution  was  carried,  and  second  day's 
sittings  brought  to  a  close. 

THIRD,    AND    LAST    DAY. 

Notwithstanding  the  inclemency  of  the  weather,  the 
meeting  of  the  Congress  was  well  attended.  Some  ex- 
citement was  produced  by  the  appearance  of  the  Rev. 

10 


218 


EITIIOPEAN  OBSEliVATIONS. 


Mr.  Copway,  formerly  a  native  American  Indian  Chief, 
who  spoke  al  <,n-eal  lenjilh  and  witli  much  enerjry  on  tho 
immorality  and  irrehgionof  war.  The  precedinnr  speak- 
ers had  been  Umited  in  their  observations  to  speeches  of 
twenty  minutes  each  ;  but,  in  consequence  of  the  pecu- 
liar circumstanoes  of  this  case,  he  was  allowed  to  address 
the  meeting  for  forty  minutes.  The  speech  of  this  per- 
son was  received  with  much  enthusiasm.  Ho  proposed 
the  fifth  resolution,  namely — 

"  This  Congress  acknowledging  the  principle  of  non- 
intervention, recognizes  it  to  be  the  sole  right  of  every 
state  to  regulate  its  own  aHairs." 

Mr.  Copway  was  followed  by  two  German  gentlemen, 
Dr.  Nell  and  Dr.  Bodensee.  The  latter  speaker  urged 
the  Confrress  to  undertake  the  settlement  of  the  Schles- 
wig-llolstciu  question.  The  proposition  did  not  apparent- 
ly meet  with  a  very  cordial  reception. 

The  Chairman  suggested  that  the  introduction  of  that 
question  would  involve  a  breach  of  their  rules  which  pro- 
hibited the  discussion  of  any  existing  political  question. 

Mr.  Cobden  also  observed,  that  it  would  be  impossible 
for  tho  Congress  then  to  go  on  with  the  subject,  as  nei- 
ther party  appeared  to  be  duly  represented  at  the  meeting. 


EUIIOPEAX  OUSERVATIOXg. 


219 


The  resolution  was  adopted. 

The  sixth  rcsohuioii  was  ns  lollows :  "This  Congress 
recommends  all  the  friends  of  Peace  to  prepare  public 
opinion  in  their  respective  countries  Ibr  the  convocation 
of  a  Congress  of  the  representatives  of  the  various 
states,  with  a  view  to  the  formation  of  a  code  of  interna- 
tional law." 

Mr.  E.  Mini!,  repudiated  the  notion  that  tliere  was 
anything  visionary  or  Utopian  in  the  peace  movement, 
and  made  a  strong  protest  against  what  are  called 
"  practical  men." 

Elihii  Burritt,  entered  into  a  history  of  the  peace 
theory,  which  he  maintained  owed  its  origin  to  Franco 
and  Germany  and  not  to  America. 

Mr.  Chapiii  of  New  York,  astonished  the  assembly  by 
a  burst  of  Yankee  elociuence,  and  the  novel  coloring 
which  he  gave  to  rather  old  materials. 

The  resolution  was  carried,  together  with  an  additional 
one  against  duelling.  On  the  latter  M.  Carmenm  and 
ill  Girardm  spoke.  A  vote  of  thanks  to  the  municipal 
authorities  of  Frankfort  followed,  in  honor  of  whom  Mr. 
Cobden  led  an  English  "  Hip,  hip,  hurrah,"  to  the  intense 
astonishment  of  the  Germans. 


220 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


It  was  then  resolved  that  the  proceedings  should  be 
printed  and  circulated  at  a  small  charge  ;  and  a  vote  of 
thanks  to  Dr.  Jaup  having  been  passed,  the  proceedings 
were  declared  at  an  end. 

The  Congress  it  was  announced  would  be  held  in  Lon- 
don next  year,  which  will  take  place  about  the  month  of 
August,  1851. 


CHAPTER  X7II. 

AFTER  SKETCHES  OF  SPEECHES  AND  MEN. 

The  last  of  the   Congress  is  about  over,  and  I  have 
made  my  poorest  speech.     For  never  in  my  life  did  I 
speak  to  such  disadvantage.     The  people  had  already 
heard  Girardin,  the  French  orator,  Cobden,  and  a  host  of 
others.     The  speeches  of  these  men  had  given  a  common- 
place  character  to  the  speeches  which  were  to  come  after 
them.     The   people  had  become  tired  of  listening,  and 
seemed  to  have  no  desire  for  anything  new.     Besides 
this,  no  new  feature  could  be  brought  forward  in  support 
of  the  great  cause  of  Peace,  and  all  the  arguments  had 
been  worn  threadbare.     The  good  speeches  had  preceded 
me,  and  the  very  best,  which  was  to  be  delivered  by  the 
Rev.  E.  H.  Chapin,  of  New  York  city,  was  just  at  my 
heels.     In  this  predicament  I  could  not  look  upon  my- 
self  with  any  great  degree  of  confidence,  nor  as  being  in 
a  very  enviable  situation. 


h: 


222 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


The  fifth  resolution,  which  was  moved  by  me,  was  as 
fellows  : — 

"  This  Congress  acknowledging  the  principle  of  non- 
intervention, recognizes  it  to  be  the  sole  right  of  every 
State  to  regulate  its  own  affairs." 

I  will  not  trouble  the  reader  with  even  an  outline  of 
the  remarks  with  which  I  endeavored  to  enforce  the  reso- 
lution. It  is  enough  to  say  that  they  were  listened  to 
with  more  attention  than  I  expected,  and  more  than  they 
deserved .  It  is  doubtful  whether  any  but  members  of 
a  Peace  Congress  would  be  so  lenient. 

I  will  give  a  short  passage  from  the  papers  which 
kindly  noticed  me,  not  in  the  way  of  boasting,  but  to  re- 
cord the  good-will  and  kind  feeling  of  the  people  with 
whom  I  sojourned  : 

"  The  personal  appearance  and  manner  of  the  different 
members  of  the  Congress,  gave  occasion  to  many  inter- 
esting sketches.  None  seemed  to  attract  more  notice 
than  an  Indian  Chief,  who  it  appears  was  one  of  the 
delegates  from  America.  His  Indian  name  is  given  as 
Ka-ge-ga-ga-bowh,  and  some  accounts  call  him  a  chief 
of  the  Otto  ways,  while  others  mention  him  as  being 
of  the   Ojibbeways.     In  some  papers  he  is  also  called 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


223 


Rev.  Copway.     Ono  correspondent  speaks  of  him  as  fol- 
lows : 

•'  The  ladies  direct  their  looks  no  longer  to  the  finely 
bearded  men  on  the  left;  the  beardless  Indian  Chief, 
with  the  noble  Roman  profile,  and  the  long,  shining, 
black  hair,  takes  their  attention.  He  bears  in  his  hand  a 
long,  and  mystically  ornamented  staff,  which  looks  like  a 
princely  sceptre,  and  wears  a  dark  blue  frock,  with  a 
scarf  over  his  shoulders,  and  bright  metallic  plates  upon 
his  right  arm.  The  Frankforters  are  sorry  that  he  wears 
a  modern  hat,  instead  of  a  cap  with  feathers,  yet  this 
mixture  of  European  elegance  with  Indian  nature  has  a 
striking  effect,  which  is  increased  by  the  reflection  that 
he  has  come  from  the  forests  of  the  New  World,  with  a 
message  of  peace  to  the  Old,  though  he  finds  more  gaping 
curiosity  than  sympathy." 

His  manner  on  entering  the  tribune  is  described  as 
follows  : 

"  An  aristocratic  bearing — and  is  not  the  orator  a 
Prince  ? — an  earnest,  calm  countenance,  well-toned  voice, 
few,  but  natural  gestures,  and  an  epic  manner,  as  if  he 
stood  ill  the  midst  of  his  tribe,  relating  clearly,  and  with- 
out passion,  some  important  occurrence.     But  by  degrees 


mmmmi 


224 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


he  becomes  warmer,  steps  back  and  forth  in  the  tribune, 
raises  his  voice,  which  he  now  accompanies  with  more 
passionate  gestures,  and  finally  with  words  that  I  did  not 
understand,  brings  forward  his  Indian  pipe  of  peace,  and 
amid  the  greatest  enthusiasm  presents  it  to  the  President 
of  the  assembly." 

In  the  course  of  two  hours  after,  my  speech  was  in  the 
language  of  the  Germans.  I  might  have  done  somethinsf 
towards  leaving  a  good  impression  of  the  speaking  powers 
of  an  aboriginal  American,  had  not  a  portly  Yankee 
come  forward  and  taken  from  my  hand  the  laurels.  But 
glad  I  am  that  it  is  an  American  who  has  won  the  best 
expression  of  feeling  and  approbation  of  the  people. 

The  speeches  of  Girardin  and  the  matter-of-fact  Cob- 
den  had  shaken  the  pillars  of  the  immense  building  iu 
which  the  multitude  were  assembled  :  but  tJie  sjwcch  ■  -s 
yet  to  be  delivered. 

The  name  "  E.  H.  Chapin"  was  called,  and  the  person 
who  answered  to  that  name  passed  by  my  side  and  went 
up  to  the  tribune.  No  sooner  had  he  commenced  speak- 
ing than  there  was  felt  to  be  something  beyond  the  power 
of  language,  or  the  mere  expression  of  ideas.  The  audi- 
ence listened.     Now  and  then  an  applause  escaped  the 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


225 


assembly.     He  enumerated  the  reasons  why  we  should 
expect  peace,  and  the  blessings  which  would  flow  from 
it.     In  a  few  words,  in  vivid  flashes,  he  pictured  the 
whole  course  of  improvement  and  reform  which  had  fol- 
lowed  the  invention  of  the  j)rinting  press.     The  Bible 
was  on  its  way— the  sails  of  every  land,  and  the  mighty 
power  of  steam,  were  urging  on  the  period  of  universal 
peace— oceans,   lakes,   rivers,  air,   electricity,  all  things 
were  in  motion  to  spread  the  event  which  is  the  desire 
of  all  nations.     The  steamer  was  dragging  its  rope  of 
gold  across  the  sea,  from  one   continent  and  island  to 
another— and  as  he  closed,  the  applause  of  the  assembly 
made  the  veiy  building  tremble. 

In  the  midst  of  this  thundering  applause  he  again 
passed  me,  and  as  soon  as  he  sat  down  I  arose,  not  know- 
ing what  I  was  doing,  and  said,  "  It  was  well  worth 
while  to  come  4,000  miles  to  deliver  such  an  address," 
and  then  sitting  down  and  turning  to  my  English  friends 
I  whispered,  "  There  !  try  and  beat  that  if  you  can  !" 

Certainly  tliis  was  very  injudicious,  inasmuch  as  it 
might  have  been  construed  into  an  insult,  but  I  could  not 
help  it,  Ibr  my  nerves  had  been  so  run  away  with  that  I 
lost  all  my  sell-command. 

10* 


¥ .,  r^ 


226 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


The  lollowing  sketch  of  the  Rov.  Mr.  Chapiii,  in  an 
English  paper,  will  bo  recognized  by  those  who  have 
seen  and  heard  him.     It  is  vdry  liie-like  : 

"  Edwin  H.  Chapin  is  one  of  the  ablest  and  most  elo- 
quent expounders  and  defenders  of  the  doctrine  of  unlim- 
ited salvation.  He  has  no  faith  in  the  old  black  fellow 
who  keeps  the  fire-office  down  stairs.  He  imagines  that 
poets  and  divines  give  him  more  credit  for  sagacity  and 
potency  than  he  deserves,  and  that  if  he  ever  was  a 
genius  he  is  now  in  his  dotage,  and  furthermore  that  he 
has  not  goodness  enough  to  be  entitled  to  our  respect,  nor 
influence  sufficient  over  our  future  destiny  to  alarm  our 
fears.  To  him  a  devil  by  any  other  name  is  just  as 
dreadful,  and  the  Satan  he  endeavors  to  subdue  he  calls 
Evil,  Sin,  Crime,  Vice,  Error.  He  thinks  the  distillery, 
where  the  worm  dieth  not  and  the  fires  are  unquenched, 
is  a  hell  on  earth  which  causes  weeping,  wailing  and 
gnashing  of  teeth 

Mr.  Chapin  is  an  independent,  straight-forward  man, 
who  has  a  will  and  a  way  of  his  own,  and  he  is  willing 
to  allow  others  the  same  freedom  he  assumes  himself. 
He  does  not  exjject  his  church  to  cough  when  he  takes 
cold,   nor  to  persj)ire  when   he   is  warm,   nor  to  sneeze 


i:E 


DK.     CI 


lAPii: 


Jk-I*^''"-'- 


EUKOPEAN  0158ERVATION.S. 


227 


when  he  lakes  sniifT,  nor  to  acquiesce  in  silent  snhmission 
to  every  proposition  that  he  makes.     He  is  not  a  theoU)fri. 
cal  tyrant,  threateninjr  venpreance  and  outer-darkness  and 
eternal  fire  to  all  the  menihers  of  his  ilook  wiio  will  not 
uncoinpluininjrly  and  nnhesitatino:ly  yield  to  his  spiritual 
snpervisorBhip.     His  lessons  and  lectures  may  sometimes 
smell  of  the  lamp,  hut  they  never  smell  of  hrimstone. 
His   education,    his    temperament,    his    or<,^anization    of 
hrain,  his  natural  henevolence,  and  the  society  in  which 
he  has  lived,  moved,  and  had  his  beinpf,  have  contributed 
to  make  him  a  preacher  of  the  gospel.     He  advocates 
with  heroic  courage  and  mitiring  zeal  the  doctrines  of  his 
faith,  but  is  universally  respected   by  all  denominations 
of  professing  Christians. 

Mr.  Chapiu  is  happily  constituted.  The  animal  and 
the  angel  of  his  nature  are  so  nicely  balanced,  and  his 
poetical  temperament  is  so  admirably  controlled  by  his 
practical  knowledge,  that  his  intellectual  eflbrts  arc  inva- 
riably stamped  with  the  mint-mark  of  true  currency. 
There  is  a  harmonious  blending  of  the  poetical  and  the 
practical,  a  pleasant  union  of  the  material  with  the  spir- 
itual, an  anr>in-arm  connection  of  tlu;  ornamental  and 
the  useful,  a  body  and   soul  johied  together,  in  his  dis- 


V':l 


m 


228 


EUItOPEAN   OJJSKRVATIOXS. 


courses.     He  avoids  two  extremes,  ami  is  not  so  material 
as  to  be  eloddish  or  of  the  earth  earthy,  nor  so  aerial  as 
to  bo  vapory  or  of  the  clouds  cloudy.    There  is  somethiiif^ 
tangible,  solid,   nutritious  and  enduring  in  his  sermons. 
He  is  not  profound  in  the  learning  of  the  schools.     Many 
of  his  inferiors  could  master  him  on  doctrinal  questions. 
The  outbursting  and  overwhelming  ofTusions  of  his  natu- 
ral eloquence,  the  striking  originality  of  his  conceptions, 
the  irresistible  power  of  his  captivating  voice,  the  vivid 
and  copious  display  of  illustration,  thrill  and  charm  the 
appreciative  hearer.     He  presents  his  arguments  and  ap- 
peals with  on  articulation  as  distinct  and  understandable 
as   his  gesticulation  is  awkward.     He  is  sometimes  ab- 
rupt, rapid  and  vehement,  but  never  "  tears  a  passion  to 
tatters."     His  tenacious   memory  enables  him  to  quote 
with  great  promptitude,  and  he  has  that  delicate,  sensitive 
taste  which  enables  him  to  select  Avith  unerring  precision 
whatever  is  truly  sublime  and  beautiful  in  an  author. 

Mr.  Chapin  declaims  splendidly  in  spite  of  his  hands, 
which  are  always  in  his  way.  The  stiff  and  technical 
restraints  of  style  which  disfigure  the  pulpit  eflbrts  of 
some  divines  never  appear  in  his  sermons,  but  seem 
rather  to  pinion  his  elbows  and  cramp  his  fingers.     He 


fi 


E  U  ROPE  A  N   OHS  E  U  VA'l'IONS. 


229 


hns  a   .'ervid  itriagiiiation,  groat  facility  of  e.vpmssion,  is 
scTupulously  correct  in   his   pronunciation.      Ho  never  in- 
dulges in  liypocrilical  cant.     There  is  no  theatrical  up- 
liiliii!?   of  the    liamls   and    uprollin-  of  the    eyes.      Ho 
seems  to  have  a  thorough  knowledge  of  his  subject,  and 
commands   your  admiration  by  the  kingly  majesty  and 
sublime  beauty  of  his  thought.     Now  he  flings  a  page 
of  meaning  into  a  single  aphorism,— now  he  electrifies 
his  spell-bound   hearers  with  a  spontaneous  burst  o'  elo- 
qnence,— now  he  dissolves  their  eyes  to  tears  by  a  wizard 
stroke  of  pathos,— now  he  controls  their  hearts  with  the 
sovereign  power  of  a  monarch  who  rules  tlie  mind-realm. 
He  infuses   liis  soul  into   liis  voice,   and   both  into  the 
nerves  and  heart  of  the  hearers. 

In  pei^son,  he  is  stout,  fleshy  and  well-proportioned. 
His  countenance  is  mild,  benignant  and  thoughtful,  with 
an  expression  of  integrity,  denoting  his  inability  to  per- 
form a  mean  action.  He  is  near-sighted,  and  his  delbct 
is  no  small  disadvantage  to  him  when  he  reads,  atid  may 
account  for  his  ungrateful  action  in  the  pulpit,  since  it 
compels  him  to  face  his  manuscript  so  closely  he  almost 
eats  his  own  words  and  salutes  his  own  rich  figures  and 
glowing   sentiments,  and   fu'fils  literally  the   scriptural 


230 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


ih 


maxim,  "  He  shall  kiss  his  own  lips  who  givcth  a  correct 
answer."  But,  as  I  have  just  intimated,  he  usually 
reads  his  discourses,  althon<rh  he  is  an  easy  extemporane- 
ous speaker ;  but  he  is  apt  to  become  so  intensely  excited 
he  rarely  trusts  to  his  impulses.  He  commands  a  very 
ready  pen,  and  is  the  author  of  two  or  three  small 
volumes  which  are  widely  circulated.  He  has  a  full, 
florid  face,  which  indicates  good  health  and  happy  con- 
tentment. His  hair  is  dark  brown.  He  wears  glasses, 
so  I  cannot  tell  the  color  of  his  eyes.  He  has  a  broad, 
high  forehead,  indicating  the  intellectual  strength  of  its 
owner.  He  is  about  forty-five  years  of  age,  and  has  la- 
bored with  honor  and  success  for  many  years  in  Rich- 
mond, Va.,  Charlestown,  Mass.,  as  well  as  Boston,  but  is 
now  preaching  in  the  city  of  New  York,  where  he  is  very 
popular  and  useful." 

The  speeches  of  Emile  de  Girardin  and  Cobden  on  the 
first  day  are  thus  spoken  of  in  the  correspondence  of  the 
London  Times,  and  for  their  style  of  speaking  it  is  a  very 
good  description  : — 

"  The  appearance  in  the  tribune  of  M.  Emile  Girardin 
was  the  signal  for  loud  acclamations  on  the  part  of  the 
French  auditors.     He  was  the  representative  of  France 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


231 


2yir  txcdlence,  and  his  dmin^^u(^  appearance  contrasted 
stranjrely  with  the   primitive  look  of  many  of  his  fbllow 
orators.     His  speech  was  equally  difierent  from  those  of 
liis  predecessors.     Biblical  allusions  were  not  ^i  his  way, 
but  he  came  in  as  a  proponnder  of  philosophi,  ,1  abstrac- 
tions, which  he  pointed  off  with  French  epigrammatic 
neatness.     The  idea  of  unite  was  to  be  carried  out— 
uniU  in  everything ;  and  every  time  ho  said  the  word 
uniU  it  was  with  remarkable  gusto.     Then  he  got  into 
universal  history,  and,  declaring  that  certain  conquerors 
of  the  Old  World  were  named  Alexander,  Ca^sar,  and 
Napoleon,  added  that  the  victors  of  the  New  M^orld  were 
named  Watt,   Wilberforce,    &c.     Civilization   was  the 
great  gain  of  modern  Europe,  and  type  and  steam  are 
now  to  do  what  was  done  heretofore  by  fire  and  s'-.ord. 
All  this,  delivered  with  an  uniform  style  of  gesticulation 
peculiarly  his  own,  told  with  great  force  ;  and  he  could 
retire  with  all  the  satisfaction  of  a  brilliant  Frenchman 
who  had  exhibited  son  talent. 

But,  after  all,  the  great  card  of  the  performance  was 
the  speech  of  Mr.  Cobden,  which  came  in  towards  the 
conclusion.  Indeed,  had  it  not  been  Ibr  this  speech,  I  fear 
the  day's  sport  would  have  wound  up  rather  coldly.  The 


232 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


president,  after  tlie  passing  of  the  first  resolution,  which 
occurred  about  1  o'clock,  allowed  the  parties  assembled 
to  retire  for  10   minutes,  and  many  thus  retiring  never 
came  back  again.     Hence  considerably  more  empty  seats 
were  visible  in  the   afternoon  than  in  the  morning,  and 
two  or  three  orations  which  opened  the  second  act,  and 
included  another  speech  by  Girardin,  a  very  long  history 
of  William  Penn,  digested  into  an  address  from  the  Penn- 
sylvania Peace  Society,  were  by  no  means  of  su(  li  a  na- 
ture as  to  diffuse  animation.     But  Cobden's  speech  set 
all  right.     It  was  a  bold,  slashing  address,   not  marked 
throughout  by  good  taste,  but  abounding  in  arguments 
and  illustrations  which  everybody  could  understand.     In 
calling  attention  to  the  second  resolution,  he  said,  that  he 
did  not  wish  to  interfere  with  the  work  of  the  diploma- 
tists, but  merely  insisted  on  the  adoption  of  an  interna- 
tional umpire  when  other  peaceful  means  should  fail, 
protesting  against  war  as  a  nuisance  which  every  people 
had  a  right  to  stop  in  defiance  of  the  existing  govern- 
ments.    If  no  better  peaceable  plan   could  be  found  the 
Governments  were  bound  to  adopt  that  proposed  by  the 
Peace  Congress  ;  and  if  any  Government  refused  to  adopt 
a  plan  of  arbitration  the  people  should   repudiate  that 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


233 


Government.     This  was  pretty  strong  language,  and  the 
vehenaence  of  tone  and  gesture  with  which  it  was  utter- 
ed  stood  out  in  strong  relief  against   the  sharp  epigram- 
matic manner  and  jerking  action  of  M.  Emile  Girardin. 
A.  symbol  had  been  furnished  to  Mr.   Cobden  on  his  jour- 
ney up  the  Rhine,  and  the  comparison  of  the  union  of  the 
Rhine  and  the  Moselle  with  that  of  all  mankind  in  uni- 
versal brotherhood  was  pleasing  to  the  audience  when 
they  rested   from  uproariously  applauding  more  peppery 
displays.     An  allusion  to  the  presence  at  the  meeting  of 
General  Haynau,  as  an  evidence  that  even  the  warriors 
themselves  had  become    averse  from  their  profession— 
though  this  was  in  the  worst  possible  taste— brought  the 
whole  oration  to  a  showy  conclusion.     The  second  reso- 
lution was  carried  immediately  afterwards,  and  the  meet- 
ing  was  adjourned  till  to-morrow,  the  audience  being 
kindly  reminded  of  the  dinner,  which  has  been  prepared 
for  them  at  the  Main-lust." 


Il:|i 


lilii 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 


SKETCHES — CONTINUED. 


The  town,  or  rather,  as  the  Fravikforters  themselves 
never  fail  to  call  it,  the  Free  Town  of  Frankfort,  was 
unusually  gay.  Animated  and  crowded  with  lounging 
travellers  the  streets  always  are  ;  hut  now^  there  seemed 
an  unusual  number,  and  generally  not  walking  singly, 
but  in  small  groups,  as  if  some  bond  of  union  held  them 
together,  and  as  though  one  and  the  same  aim  had  brought 
them  to  the  same  spot.     And  then,  too,  one  saw  a  great 

number  of they  were  like  Englishmen,  and  yet  there 

was  a  diflerence.  These  were  Americans  ;  and  among 
them,  as  well  as  those  whose  country  in  Cesar's  time 
was  not  considered  quite  worthless,  since  it  produced  an 
oyster,  wore  not  a  few  whose  trim  drc.«s  and  staid  sobriety 
of  demeanor  marked  at  once  the  respectable  sect  to  which 
they  belonged.  And  look  at  yonder  dark  figure  with 
countenance  so  calm  and  imperturbable  I     Whence  com- 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS.  235 

eth  he  ?     Tn  his  hand  he  holds  a  hug  instrument,  which 
some  may  deem  a  weapon ;  and  round  his  left  arm  is  a 
band,  seemingly  a  badge  of  authority.     How  blaek  and 
long  the  hair  that  falls  without  a  wave  down  upon  his 
shoulders  !     He  is  from  the  far,  far  West.     Perhaps  his 
home  has  been  where  the  Rocky  Mountains  fling  their 
huge  shadow  as  the  sun  disappears  behind  them,  while 
their  peaks  flame  like  meteors  in  the  sky.     What  leads 
him  hither  ?_why  leaves  he  his  hunting-grounds  to  come 
to  this  European  city  ?_from  the  plain  that  quakes  be- 
neath the  quick  tramp  of  the  bufTalo  to  where  the  gentle 
footfall  of  the  pleasure-seeker  is  mingled  with  the  meas- 
ured tread  of  well-disciplined  European  soldiery  ? 

What  a  glorious  day  !     How  bright  the  sky-and  the 
atmosphere  how  clear  and  transparent !     Even  the  fine 
taper  points  of  the  lightning  conductors,  with  which  every 
house  is  furnished,  are  distinctly  visible  from  afar.     How 
that  golden  cross   shines   above  the  house-tops,  looking 
more  like  a  sign   from   heaven  than  a  thing  of  bronze 
placed  there  by  a  mechanic's  hands!     The  edifice  over 
which  it  rises  was  once   a  church,  but  is  so  no   longer. 
Let  us  enter  there.     It  is  already  well  filled  with  people  ; 
in  the  body  of  the  building  are  men  only,  among  whom 


'am  I 


236 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


we  seem  to  recognize  some  we  met  yesterday  in  little 
groups  about  the  streets  ;  while  around  the  edifice  beneath 
the  gallery,  supported  by  the  massive  columns,  ladies  have 
taken  their  places.     Before  us  is  a  raised  tribune,  over 
which  are  hanging  three  flags,  each  with  three  stripes, 
black,   red,   and  gold.     Still  higher  is  a  female  figure, 
with  golden  hair,  like  a  true   daughter  of  the  north  ;  a 
sword  too,  is  in  her  hand,  but  it  rests  in  repose.     And  on 
each  side,  within  a  wreath  of  laurel,  is  a  German  rhyme, 
to  the  effect  that,  even  as  this  green  garland  is  interwo- 
ven, so  may  all  the  people  of  Germany  be   entwined  in 
bonds  of  amity.     For  you  rrust  know  that  here,  beneath 
this  very  roof,  not  long  ago  did  sit  the  deputies  from  city, 
and  town,   and  university — from    borough   and  village, 
from  every  part  of  Germany.     Here,  elate  with  hope,  and 
promising  themselves  great  things,  with  fond  expectations 
of  the  realizing  of  long-cherished  wishes,  good,  and  wise, 
and  well-intentioned  men  met  together  to  talk  of  plans 
for  their  country's  weal.     Bat  though  calm  hearts  were 
here,  there  were  men,  too,  whose  thoughts  were  of  vio- 
lence ;  and  but  few,  if  any,  po.ssessed  that  plain,  practical 
ability  which,  when  something  is  to  be  done,  is  of  more 
avail  than  great  stores  of  learning.     And  so  nothing  was 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS.  237 

done.     But  the  space  within  these  walls,  where  till  then 
words  of  prayer,  and   exhortation,  and  praise  had  been 
heard,  became  an  arena  for  fierce  contention  ;  and  mad- 
dening  words  that  led  to  blood  resounded  there  amid  the 
hoarse  roar  of  popular  applause.     You  have  read  of  the 
wild  scenes  of  revolutionary  France,   and   how  orators 
were  cheered  on  by  their  party,  till,  with  swimming  brain 
and  in  a  frenzy  of  excitement,  they  uttered  fearful  threats 
and  terrible  denunciations ;  and  how  the  calm  and  reso- 
lute were  hooted,  and  their  words  drowned  in  the  mad 
screams  and  execrations  of  a  rabble  audience.     And  so 
it  was  here— beneath  this  very  dome  over  which  the 
bright  cross  we  saw  just  now  was  gleaming.     How  dif- 
ferent  is  the  present  assembly  !     For  what  are  they  wait- 
ing ? 

The  bell  has  been  rung,  and  silence  instantly  obtained. 
We  are  now  told  the  meaning  of  this  assembling  of  men 
from  many  lands.  They  come  here  to  propose  peace  to 
the  nations— to  propose  that  war  shall  henceforth  be  no 
more.  It  is  a  Peace  Congress  at  which  we  are  present  ; 
and  on  this  errand  these  men  have  been  brought  togethei 
from  the  remote  parts  of  the  earth.  We  will  not  argue 
on  the  practicability  of  thus  establishing  universal  peace  : 


1  i  J 

ill! 


238 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


so  strange  are  the  revolutions  which  time  brings  about, 
that  even  this  too   may  happen.     But  there  was  some- 
thing that  interested  us  more  at  this  meeting  than  the 
dim  and  imcertain  result — far  ofi^  at  all  events,  even  if 
ever  attainable — and  it  was  this :  to  observe  the  difTer- 
ence  in  the  mode  of  thought  and  manner  of  utterance  of 
the  speakers,  assembled  from  differeiit  countries,  with  one 
object  and  in  one  cause.     Meetings  are  too  common  now- 
a-days  to  ofler  much  of  novelty  ;  but  we  seldom  see  one 
liki  this,  where  many  men  in  their  own  peculiar  language 
give  utterance  to  their  peculiar  thoughts.     And  it  is  for 
this  reason — and  this  reason  only — that  we  have  brought 
you  hither. 

The  first  speaker  is  a  Scotsman — so  at  least  we  should 
judge  by  his  accent.  Why,  that  one  man's  face  is  worth 
all  the  speeches  we  m<xy  hear  to-day,  so  indicative  is  it  of 
kindly  feeling,  light-heartedness,  and  hearty  good-fellow- 
ship. How  sunny  the  smile  on  his  face  as  he  utters  his 
conviction  that  men  were  not  made  to  fight,  seeing  that 
their  fingers  are  not  adapted  for  tearing,  nor  their  teeth 
for  fastening  on  each  other  !  There  is  good-humor  in  his 
argument,  and  good-feeling  too ;  and  if  his  reasoning  be 
not  incontrovertible  in  the  cause  of  universal  peace,  wo 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


239 


still  like  war  the  less  if  it  be  only  because  it  is  repugnant 
to  him  with  whom,  on  any  point  whatever,  we  should  be 
sorry  to  be  at  variance.     His  language  is  plain  and  ,m- 
studied,  and  his  meaning  clear  as  the  bright  eye  that  an- 
imates his    rosy  countenance.     No    German  could  ever 
speak  so  ;  neither  is  there  method  enough  in  the  arrange- 
ment to  please  the  German  mind.     How  could  he  touch 
on  such   a  topic   without  abstract  principles  and  philo 
sophic  rules  ?     But  let  us  listen  to  the  German,  and  then 
compare  the  two. 

With  thoughtful   mien,  with  slow  and  rather  heavy 
step,  he  approaches  the  tribune.     There  is  none  of  the 
ease  that  was  so  prepossessing  in  the  first  speaker,  for  tha 
German  would  as  soon  think  of  putting  aside  his  gravity 
as  of  putting  off  his  coat  in  pubhc.     Besides,  he  has  to 
speak  before  an  assembly ;  and  the  professor  is  perhaps 
thinking  of  the  Forum,  and  of  the  dignity  of  the  toga,  and 
of  the  pride  of  ancient  Rome.     He  looks  very  grave,  for 
he  doubtless  has  well  weighed  the  difficulties  to  be  en- 
countered ;  and  instead  of  jumping  to  the  conclusion,  has 
wrestled  with  the  obstacles  one  by  one,  and  forced  his 
way  through  by  dint  of  argument.     The  toil  is  over,  but 
it  is  still  present  to  his  mind.     This  man  is  not  one  to 


240 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


make  proselytes  or  gain  adherents ;  for  both  would  bo 
deterred  by  a  sense  of  the  difficulties  to  be  encountered, 
and  by  the  fear  that  they  might  not  prove  so  manful  in 
the  attack  as  he.  You  feel  at  once — though,  mind  you, 
he  has  hardly  spoken  yet — that  it  is  a  serious  afiair  you 
are  about,  and  that  if  you  follow  in  his  steps  you  will 
have  enough  to  do.  He  is  not  one  to  make  light  of  a 
difficult  matter,  and  trusting  somewhat  to  fortune,  call 
gaily  for  you  to  come  on.  He  tells  you  beforehand  it  is 
difficult  ;  but  then  he  will  also  tell  you  how  difficulties 
may  be  subdued,  and  indeed  must  be  so  if  his  calculations 
be  correct. 

But  now  he  is  speaking,  or  rather  he  is  reading  his 
sp?ech.  Do  you  understand  his  meaning  ?  Not  always, 
I  think  ;  for  it  is  the  deduction  of  abstruse  reasoning,  and 
one  would  need  to  read  the  same  twice  over  to  comprehend 
it  well.  Besides,  the  sentences  are  long  and  intricate  ; 
there  is  an  entanglement  which  you  cannot  well  unravel ; 
and  many  a  relative  pronoun,  too,  which  puzzles  you,  as 
you  are  not  quite  certain  to  which  member  of  the  sentence 
it  relates.  It  is  too  involved  to  be  clear.  But  perchance 
the  speaker's  thoughts  are  not  quite  definite  either  :  hence 
that  vagueness  which  leaves  you  at  the  end  where  you 


EUIIOPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


241 


v^ould  bo 
>imterecl, 
lanf'ul  in 
lind  you, 
flair  you 
you  will 
ight  of  a 
une,  call 
and  it  is 
.fficulties 
culations 

iding  his 
;  always, 
ling,  and 
iprehend 
ntricate  ; 
unravel ; 
s  you,  as 
sentence 
erchance 
r :  hence 
here  you 


were  when  he  began.     He  does  not  point  out  the  road 
you  are  to  travel  for  the  accomplishment  of  your  purpose, 
but  he  gives  you  theories  which  are  to  be  your  guide. 
You  do  not  advance  ;  you  are  not  carried  forwards  either 
with  or  against  your  will ;  but  keeping  the  one  point  in 
view,  instead  of  approaching  tou-arcU  it,  you  move  round 
It   always   at  the   same  distance.     Alas!  alas!  it  was 
this  very  fault  which  before,  in  these  same  walls,  led  to 
nothing.     Here,  in  the  Peace  Congress  of  the  Nations, 
I    understood  how  Germany,  like  the  virgins  who  slept, 
entered  not  to  the  fbast  when  at  last  the  bridegroom  came 
ibr  whose  arrival  they  had  so  long  been  watching. 

If  you  are  tired  of  listening  to  the  speaker,  then  look 
at  that  man  sitting  on  the  right  of  the  president,  and 
leaning  back  in  his  chair  quite  at  his  ease ;  his  right  el- 
bow  on  the  table,  and  his  head  resting  on  his  hand.     His 
thin  dark  hair  is  combed  over  his  forehead  on  the  right, 
his  eyebrows  are   drawn    somewhat  together,    and    he 
seems  not  to  be  merely  looking  at,  but  scrutinizing,  those 
before  him.  His  mouth  \^  firmly  closed,  by  which  I  mean 
that  the  lips  do  not  merely  gently  touch  each  other,  but 
that  they  do  so  with  a  pressure.     Such  a  mouth  is  always 
indicative  of  steady  resolve.     As  he  sits  there,  moving 

11 


242 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


only  his  eyes,  but  not  turninp:  his  head,  there  is,  me- 
thiuks,  a  rather  dark  expression  ahout  the  brow.  Perhaps 
I  may  be  wrong  ;  yet  strangely  enough,  that  countenance 
recalls  one  I  have  elsewhere  seen,  over  which,  and  with 
good  reason,  an  expression  of  gloom  was  spread.     Now 
look  yourself,  and  tell  me  is  there  not  in  that  head   a 
strange  resemblance  to  one  well  known  to  you  ?     Does 
it  not  remind  you  of  Napoleon  ?     For  my  part  I  thought 
at  once  of  that  picture  where  he  is  sitting  after  a  defeat 
with  knitted  brow  and  eyes  gazing  fixedly  before  him.  It 
is  said  that  he  whom  you  are  looking  at,  and  who  at  this 
distance  looks  so  like  the  Emperor,  is  related  to  him  ;  and 
I  dare  say  he  is  not  disinclined  to  assist  the  resemblance 
as  much  as  is  in  his  power. 

The  president  reads  the  name  of  Emile  Girardin  as 
being  next  on  the  list  of  those  who  have  announced  their 
intention  to  speak  ;  and  he  whom  we  have  been  observ- 
inf'  rises  and  mounts  the  tribune.  He  moves  with  a 
quick  step  ;  he  makes  haste  to  obey  the  summons.  He 
seems  quite  at  home  iu  his  present  place,  as  if  he  were 
accustomed  to  be  often  where  he  is.  There  is  nothing 
like  hesitation  in  his  manner,  although  he  does  pause 
for  a  moment  or  two.  and  looks  around  him  before  he  be- 


EUROr'EAX  OnSKUVATIONS. 


243 


gins  to  speak.     Why  he  does  so  I  do  not  know  ;  perhaps 
it  is  only  his  usual  manner ;  perhaps,  however,  it  may 
be  done  for  e/Tect.     He  holds   in  his  hand  a  small  piece 
of  paper,  on  which  some   notes  are  written  ;  but  once 
having  begun   to  speak,    he    is  in  no  want  of   ideas  : 
thoughts,  and  words  to  express  them,  come  crowding  on  ; 
and  the  short-hand  writers  yonder  will  have  enough  to 
do  to  follow  him.     Hi.s  utterance  is  rapid  ;  and  now  and 
then  having  said  something  terse   and  to  the  point,  he 
comes  to  a  dead  stop.     He  has  pronounced  words  that 
strike  you.  and  he  knows  they  do  so  ;    he  knew  they 
would  before  he  uttered  them,  and  he  is  giving  you  time 
to  let  you  feel  their  effect,  and,  if  you  like,  to  applaud. 
His  countenance  does  not  grow   animated  by  speaking; 
his  brow  is  knit  the  same   as  before  ;  and  there  is  still 
something  dark  about  the  eyes,  and  the  upper  part  of  the 
face  as  he  looks  straight  before  him.     Action,  that  diffi- 
cult part  of  the  orator's  art,  he  has  yet  to  learn.     He 
moves  his  right  hand  up  and  down  at  regular  intervals, 
and  then  again  it  takes  hold  of  the  tribune  in  company 
with  the  left.     There  is  something  very  commo.iplace  in 
this  monotony  of  action,  corresponding  as  it  does  in  no 
way  whatever  with  the  matter  of  his  discourse.     But 


244 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


how  well-turned  arc  his  phrases,  how  elegant  his  diction ! 
It  is  true  he  often  says  somt'lhing  that  would  not  mean 
much  if  translated  into  English  ;  although  as  he  puts  it 
in  the  elegant  language  of  France,  it  does  arrest  your  at- 
tention.    His  sentences  are  mostly  short ;  and  it  is  in  these 
short  ones  that  there  is  most  point.    He  utters  them  abrupt- 
ly, and  at  the  same  time  with  much  decision  ;  as  if  those 
words  were  to  settle  the  question  at  once.   '  La  science  de- 
truit  la  politique,'  he  will  tell  you  ;  or, '  II  y  a  une  nouvelle 
politique  dans  Ic  monde — c'est  la  science.'     This  is  not 
said  as  a  theory,  but  uttered  as  a  law.     It  is  pronounced 
like  a  commandment,  and  as  such  you  are  to  receive  it. 
To  the  applause  which  greets  him  he  seems  accustomed, 
and  waits  quietly  each  time  till  the  noise  has  subsided 
before  he  again  begins  to  speak.     He  intends  that  each 
word  shall  be  heard,  and  till  all  is  quiet  that  cannot  be. 
A  phrase  of  usual  length,  followed  by  one  of  but  five  or 
six  words,  spoken  quickly,  but  with  the  firmest  intona- 
tion, and  the  discourse  is  at  an  end.  He  quits  the  tribune 
as  quickly  as  he  entered  it,  and  taking  his  seat,  is  again 
an  imperturbable  spectator  as  before. 

What  a  thunder  of  applause  now  resounds  through  the 
building  as  yonder  speaker  is  about  to  ascend  the  tribune  I 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


245 


diction ! 
ot  mean 
e  puts  it 
your  at- 
in  these 
1  abrupt- 
s  if  those 
ience  de- 
nouvelle 
lis  is  not 
onounced 
eceive  it. 
mstomed, 
subsided 
that  each 
annot  be. 
ut  five  or 
st  intona- 
le  tribune 
t,  is  again 

rough  the 
le  tribune  I 


That  is  Cobden.  There  is  nothing  in  his  person  that 
could  lead  you  to  believe  he  would  battle  still  wlien  reso- 
lution appeared  to  be  in  vain  ;  nothing  that  might  incline 
you  to  notice  him  in  a  crowd  of  men.  But  let  him  speak, 
and  you  at  once  acknowledge  the  man  to  be  '  a  power' — 
a  power  that  dictates,  and  must  be  treated  with  like  a 
neighboring  state.  He  is  below  the  middle  height,  and 
of  spare  habit ;  one  of  those  men,  in  short,  who  Sallust 
tells  us  are  to  be  feared  in  a  state.  Every  syllable  he 
utters  is  as  distinct  as  the  organs  of  speech  can  i.nake  it. 
He  speaks  rather  slowly  at  first,  and  at  times  so*  ne what 
hesitatingly ;  but  this  is  not  because  he  does  not  know  what 
to  say,  but  because  he  is  thinking  how  he  shall  express 
his  meaning  with  the  very  utmost  amount  of  power.  He 
does  not  seek  fine  words,  but  strong  ones.  And  strength 
there  is  in  what  he  says,  and  in  his  manner  of  saying  it. 
His  sentences  are  short,  like  the  Roman  sword  ;  but  they 
are  forged  for  close  warfare  and  a  hard  struggle.  He 
leans  forward  as  he  speaks  ;  and  with  his  right  arm,  as 
he  dashes  it  downwards,  seems  to  beat  his  arguments 
into  his  hearers'  minds.  Right  or  wrong,  his  whole 
heart  is  in  the  cause.  Of  that  there  can  be  no  doubt. 
He  speaks  from  conviction ;  and  with  an  earnestness  and 


Mttii 


240 


EUKOl'EAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


intensity  such  as  one  rarely  hears.  There  is  nothing  ele- 
gant in  his  language  ;  it  is  clothed  with  no  ornament, 
but,  like  the  naked  limbs  oC  the  gladiator,  it  trusts  en- 
tirely to  its  unaided  strength.  All  he  proposes  is  intelli- 
gible ;  all  his  reasoning  is  plain  and  clear.  He  knows 
nothing  of  theory,  but  deals  solely  with  facts.  He  hurls 
into  the  arena  before  you — at  your  very  feet,  as  it  were 
— some  fact,  some  massive  fact ;  and  he  tells  you  to  get 
rid  of  it — to  move  it  thence  if  you  can.  That  is  his  mode 
of  arguing.  There  is  such  energy  in  his  manner,  such 
life  and  energy  in  his  words,  that  you  now  understand 
the  power  of  the  Corn-Law  League. 

Such  speaking  is  new  here.  It  takes  every  one  by 
surprise ;  but  after  a  while  you  hear  from  time  to  time 
exclamations  in  various  languages,  all  expressive  of  won- 
derment at  the  boldness  of  his  thoughts,  and  the  manner 
in  which  they  are  imparted  to  you.  But  he  cares  only 
for  convincing  his  audience,  and  cares  not  for  its  ap- 
plause. He  is  full  of  his  plan,  and  does  not  like  delay  ; 
hence  he  is  impatient  of  the  '  bravos'  and  the  shouts  ;  and 
he  can  hardly  wait  till  the  storm  of  approbation  has  sub- 
sided.    But  as  he  retires  to  his  place,  it  does  not  die  away 


EUKOPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


247 


SO  soon,  and  all  give  expression  to  their  feelings  in  one 
long  round  of  applause. 

As  in  the  plays  of  the  French  dramatists  there  is  more 
attention  to  the  rules  of  art  than  in  our  own,  so  is  it  in 
the  speeches  we  have  heard  to-day,  In  style  and  in  ar- 
rangement the  French  were  certainly  the  best  :  they 
were  the  most  finished  of  all.  Victor  Hugo  was  to  have 
been  there,  and  it  would  have  been  interesting  to  hear 
the  a,uthor  of'  a  la  Colonne'  speak  on  the  benefits  of  uni- 
versal peace.  But  as  he  stated  in  his  letter,  '  his  physi- 
cians had  condemned  him  to  repose' — an  expression,  by 
the  by,  which  it  would  never  have  entered  the  head  of 
an  Englishman  or  a  German  to  make  use  of.  Cobden's 
words  fell  from  his  lips  with  all  the  force  of  a  sledge- 
hammer. There  was  truly  nothing  in  his  oratory,  but  all 
he  said  had  weight  and  substance,  or  rather  had  weight 
because  it  was  composed  of  real  tangible  stuff. 

The  Peace  Congress  afibrded  much  matter  for  thought, 
independently  of  the  especial  object  for  which  it  was  held  : 
one  could  here  study  to  advantage  the  distinctive  fea- 
tures of  the  different  nationalities." 

Besides  the  above,  I  give  a  leader  in  the  Times  news- 
paper in  London,  in  reference  to  the   Peace  Congress, 


H 


248 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


which  is  characteristic  of  that  paper  to  run  down  any 
such  scheme, 

"  Mr.  Cobden  has  been  '  starring'  in  the  Provinces  du- 
ring the  week.  It  cannot  be  denied  that,  as  far  as  num- 
bers are  concerned,  he  has  drawn  a  numerous  audience  at 
Frankfort.  The  portion  of  his  performance  which  appears 
to  have  given  the  most  unlimited  satisfaction,  was  the 
chaste  and  humorous  manner  in  which  he  indoctrinated 
the  motley  assembly  in  the  Paul's  ';irche  in  the  mystery 
of  a  true  British  cheer.  Henceforth  it  may  be  expected 
that  the  guttural  sounds  in  which  the  chamois  hunter  of 
the  Alps,  and  the  green-coated  rifleman  of  the  Tyrolese 
mountains,  are  wont  to  give  utterance  to  the  pent-up 
emotions  of  their  minds  will  give  place  to  the  measured 
*  hip,'  '  hip,'  '  hurrah  I'  of  the  Guild-Hall  or  Free-mason 
Tavern. 

The  remainder  of  Mr.  Cobden's  performance  does  not 
seem  to  have  met  with  the  same  success,  as  his  final 
point,  nor  is  such  consummation  to  be  wondered  at.  A 
formidable  rival  sprung  up  in  the  person  of  an  Ojibway 
Chief — who  for  the  best  portion  of  an  hour  indulged  the 
audience  with  a  rhapsody  upon  the  impropriety  of  dig- 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


249 


ging  up  the  war  hatchet — and  taking  a  scalp  from  a 
fallen  foe. 

La  Longue  Calchine  was  the  Jenny  Lind  of  the  Paul's 
kirche.  He  evidently  got  the  better  of  Mr.  Cobden,  who 
to  regain  his  ascendency  could  find  nothing  more  to  the 
purpose  than  to  give  the  audience  a  sample  of  an  English 
after-dinner  cheer. 

The  people  who  had  been  collected  together  in  the 
Paul's  kirche  were  evidently  delighted  with  the  diversion 
after  the  weariness  of  the  orators,  and  set  about  cheering 
with  all  the  powers  of  their  united  lungs.  To  be  sure 
there  were  no  very  subtle  arguments  to  be  deduced  from 
their  hurrahs,  but  they  were,  at  any  rate,  as  conclusive  as 
the  speeches. 

Any  serious  comment  upon  the  proceedings  of  the 
Peace  meeting  is  entirely  out  o^  ne  question.  One  of 
the  speakers — Mr.  Hindiey,  of  Oldham,  had  the  naivete 
to  relate  to  the  audience  a  short  conversation  between 
himself  and  Lord  Brougham.  The  point  of  the  anecdote 
was  that  Lord  Broufjham  had  once  told  M.  Hindiey  that 
the  ministers  of  the  Peace  Congress  were  '  the  greatest 
fools.'  Whate\er  our  opinion  may  be,  we  might  have 
hesitated  before  expressing  it  quite  so  tersely  as  the  noble 


250 


EunopEAN  obsp:kvations. 


and  learned  Lord.  But  since  the  ^vord  has  been  said, 
we  will  only  add  that  a  great  many  people  are  of  Lord 
Brougham's  way  of  thinking  upon  this  point.  As  to  the 
horrors  of  warfare  there  can  be  no  question.  We  have 
as  profound  a  detestation  of  all  armaments,  military  or 
naval,  as  the  Ojibway  Chief  himself.  We  would  hail  with 
rapture  the  day  when  the  last  bayonet  to  be  found  in 
Europe  Avas  turned  into  a  corkscrew  or  a  carving-knife. 
But  what  avail  our  empty  wishes  ?  Is  it  right  or  honest  to 
foster  the  delusion  that  any  serious — any  appreciable — in- 
fluence over  the  course  of  events  can  be  exercised  by  the 
delivery  of  a  tissue  of  inane  platitudes  upon  the  advan- 
tages of  peace  and  the  calamities  of  war  ?  It  would  be 
just  as  much  to  the  purpose  if  a  Congress  should  be  held 
to-morrow  to  point  out  the  beauties  of  truth,  and  the 
ugliness  of  lying.  We  do  not  see  why  each  of  the  ten 
commandments  should  not  in  time  furnish  pretext  for  a 
meeting  of  nations  in  Frankfort  or  elsewhere.  Charity, 
patience,  humanity,  honesty,  sincerity,  purity  of  word  and 
deed,  are  all  excellent  topics  for  very  excellent  essays  or 
orations.  The  human  race  requires  to  be  set  right  upon 
each  of  these  points  to  the  hill  as  much  as  upon  the  hor- 
rors of  war.     Nay,  the  series  of  ethical  agitations    we 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


251 


propose  would  be  much  more  to  the  purpose,  than  what 
is  called  a  Peace  Congress.  Mr.  Cobderi  and  the  Ojib- 
way  are  turning  up  a  shallow  furrow  indeed.  Could 
nations  and  individuals  be  persuaded  to  act  with  justice, 
and  forbearance,  and  humanity, — could  they  be  taught 
not  to  covet  their  neighbor's  goods,  and  to  do  to  others 
as  they  would  themselves  be  done  by,  the  armies  of 
Europe  might  at  once  be  put  on  the  half-pay  list.  War 
is  but  the  expression  of  evil  passions — certainly  on  the 
side  of  one — probably  on  the  part  of  both  of  the  belli- 
gerent powers.  But  it  would  seem  from  the  records 
of  history  that  civilization  is  a  plant  of  slow  growth. 
Time  is  the  great  element  in  all  human  improvement. 
Men  cannot  be  made  just  and  merciful  by  a  batch  of 
speeches  and  in  two  or  three  hours'  time. 

When  the  present  generation  has  passed  away,  and 
another  and  another,  it  may  happen  that  the  transcen- 
dental dreams  of  universal  fraternity  may  be  realized  ; 
but,  as  yet,  we  grieve  to  say  it,  we  see  little  prospect  for 
so  desirable  an  object. 

There  is  one  point  connected  with  the  Congress  which 
cannot  but  very  forcibly  arrest  the  attention.  When  we 
read  over  the  resolutions  proposed  to  the  assembly  we  find 


i 


252 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


them  to  consist  as  usual  of  recommendations  of  National 
disarmament,  of  disapprobation  of  foreign  loans  nego- 
tiated for  the  purpose  of  furnishing  one  people  the  means 
of  slaughtering  another,  and  so  forth.  Now,  when  these 
gentlemen  find  practically,  that  the  ^^overi'^nents  of  Eu- 
rope cannot  or  will  not  disarm  the  troops  at  their  com- 
mand— when  they  sec  that,  for  all  their  talk,  the  Emper- 
or of  Russia  need  but  propose  a  loan,  and  the  subscription 
list  is  filled  up  in  the  course  of  a  morning  in  ihe  city — 
of  what  avail  is  it  to  persist  in  such  visionary  schemes  ? 
Whatever  may  be  the  case  in  daj-  to  come,  the  present 
Mr.  Cobden  and  his  Indian  friend  are  belbre  their  age." 

This  is  a  fair  specimen  of  English  raillery  which  has 
been  heard  by  us  and  read,  as  we  have  now  travelled 
over  a  country  which  is  now  groaning  in  spile  of  its  gi- 
gantic wealth. 

It  will  be  tolerated  in  other  nations  to  say  much 
against  the  Peace  movement  in  this  or  any  other  country 
where  less  disaster  has  attended  the  passions  of  war — but 
an  Englishman  whose  very  country  is  now  groaning  of  a 
debt  created  by  the  past  folly  of  its.  Heads,  is  the  last  one 
who  could  be  expected  to  say  so  much  against  the  present 
benevolent  movement  of  the  cause  of  Peace, 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


253 


The  devastating  eflects  of  the  national  debt  is  felt  in 
the  splendid  palaces  of  the  rich^  and  reek  in  the  gutters 
of  the  miserable.  But,  to  be  consistent — I  have  heard 
the  Englishmen  even  say  that  the  national  debt  was  ben- 
eficial to  the  people  !  and  to  the  country  with  its  gov- 
ernment. If  this  is  beneficial — then  the  slavery  entailed 
on  the  American  continent  by  the  British  government  in 
its  early  days  must  of  course  be  a  benefit  to  the  people  of 
this  country.  One  is  just  as  detestable  as  the  other,  and 
the  present  enlightened  age  will  not  tolerate  such  evils. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


VISIT   TO   HEIDELBERG. 

Saturday  morning,  and  a  pleasant  morning  it  is  too, 
Our  Congress  is  over,  but  the  people  are  as  busy  as  ever 
The  Prince  Frederick  desired  I  should  see  him  this  morn- 
ing at  7  o'clock,  masonicaily.    I  saw  him  last  evening  just 
as  he  was  leaving  his  room. 

Ho  is  a  fine-looking  man,  and  as  stately  in  his  bearing 
as  General  Scott,  of  the  United  States.  Indeed,  I  never 
saw  a  man  more  commandmg  in  his  appearance.  This 
morning  my  friend  Dr.  J.  W.  Carove,  desires  me  to  visit 
the  Heidelberg  University,  of  which  he  is  one  of  the 
Professors.  After  that,  at  9  o'clock,  I  must  bid  farewell 
to  the  city  of  Frankfort. 

As  I  Avas  passing  through  the  Parade  Grounds  the 
Prince  was  having  a  review  of  the  soldiers.  Ten  thou- 
sand soldiers  in  arms  I  the  sight  was  an  imposing  one. 
Their  burnished  weapons  and  splendid  equipage  glittered 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


255 


before  the  sun,  and  the  tall  plume  of  the  Prince,  who  was 
conspicuous  on  the  field,  waved  before  us  as  we  passed. 
These  soldiers  make  a  brilliant  and  formidable  appear- 
ance, but  such  things  are  altogether  repugnant  to  my 
feelings  since  my  warrior's  creed  has  been  changed  to  a 
harmless  one. 

My  visit  to  the  University  was  pleasant.     I  ascended 
the  Tower  which  is  situated  on  a  hill  about  three  miles 
high,  and  had   a  panoramic  view  of  the  vast  country 
which  surrounds  it.     Far  off  in  the  westward  are  visible 
the   peaks   of  the  hills  of  France.     A  mountain  range, 
looking  as  if  its  top  was  lost  in  the  clouds,  makes  its  ap- 
pearance.    The  mountain  on  which  I  stood  extended  its 
rugged  hill-tops  northward,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach. 
Far  off  in  an  easterly  direction  the  villages  of  the  Ger- 
man nation  lay  slumbering  in  peace  and  silence.     There 
again  rolls  the  tide  of  the  beautiful  Rhine.     The  fiery 
beams  of  the  sun  glisten  on  its  surface,  and  the  whole 
water  appears  as  if  it  were  a  river  of  fire.     Onward  it 
rolls  its  winding  course,  its  crystal  waters  enclosed  in  a 
locket  of  green.     Here  is  also  the  Neckar,  coming  into 
sight  as  if  it  were  just  emerging  from  under  the  hill,  and 
like  a  classic  river  oi'  modern  times  it  passes  by  this  tern- 


256 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


pie  of  learning.     On  the  other  side  of  the  Neckar  the 
farms  appear  in  dots,  and  the  whole  valley   is   loaded 
with   grain  and  vegetation.     The  hardy  race  of  women 
are  in  the  fields  performing  the  duties  of  husbandmen, 
while  their  husbands,  sons,  and  brothers  are  stationed  at 
the  frontier  towns  of  the  north,  ready  for  war.     These 
German  women  are  short  and  portly    and  have   ruddy 
complexions.     With  their  sun-  burnt  faces  they  may  com- 
pare to   advantage,  so  far  as  redness  is  conceriied,  with 
any  of  our  squaws  in  America  ;  and  like  them  they  are 
serviceable  at   home    and  in   the  field.     But  of  course 
there  are  ladies  for  the  parlor  in  Germany  as  well  as  in 
every   other  civilized    country.     To   grace   saloons   and 
drawing-rooms,   women  must  be  converted  into  butter- 
flies, joined  in  the  middle  by  a  thread,  ornamented  with 
a  great  variety  of  hues,  formed  to  flutter  and  fly  about, 
and  to  live  on  sickening  sweets,  such  as  their  counterparts, 
the  flowers  of  the  boudoir,  may  ofler.     There   is  more 
heart  in  a  German  peasant  woman,  and  more  soul  in  a 
simple-minded  squaw,  than  in  a  thousand  toys  that  are 
formed  only  for  ornaments  and  playlliings.     Doubtless 
either    extreme    is   to    be    deprecated,   and    the    noble 
gentlewoman  is  a  medium  between  the  two,  Iree  from 


EUIiOPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


257 


cocarseness   on  the  one   hand    and   from   frailty   on   the 
other. 

The  spires  in  the  south-west  are  the  steeples  of  Straus- 
burg.  I  cannot  stay  here,  for  the  time  approaches 
Avhen  I  must  leave  the  town.  I  think  of  it  with  reluct- 
ance, and  I  shall  be  still  more  reluctant  to  part  with 
these  things  which  minister  so  greatly  to  my  enjoyment. 
Where  I  stand  it  blows  a  gale,  yet  I  would  gladly  stay 
here  till  sunset,  and  take  a  view  of  the  surrounding 
scenery,  the  hills  bathed  in  the  glory  of  the  setting  sun, 
and  the  rich  landscape  softened  by  the  shadows  of  the 
mountains.  The  whole  valley  is  dotted  with  villages 
surrounded  with  vineyards  and  gardens  that  look  >.o  if 
they  had  been  made  for  the  lovers  of  the  picturesque  as 
much  as  for  subsistence  and  comfort.  Here  and  there 
the  smoke  rising  from  groups  of  dwellings,  awaken  a 
thousand  associations  of  domestic  peace  and  social  har- 
mony within,  and,  to  one  of  great  imagination,  associa- 
tions of  fairy  habitations,  among  the  clouds.  There  is  a 
rail  car  coining  up  the  valley  !  Its  trail  of  smoke  ex- 
tending in  a  right  line,  and  appearing  motionless,  while 
the  car  shoots  over  the  ground  like  an  arrow,  produces  a 
singular  impression.     The  spinning  of  a  fleece  of  idack 


I  li^  itfjtAi 


258 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS 


wool,  is  a  homely  comparison,  but  th<  >'  ^'ight  be  a 
worse  one. 

The  company  who  have  managed  lo  ffPi  'p  here  are 
well  pleased  with  the  sight,  and  in  accordance  with  cus- 
tom I  have  recorded  my  name,  nation,  place  of  resi- 
dence, &c.  I  must  now  descend  and  find  my  way  to  the 
University,  to  see  the  library,  museum,  and  other  objects 
of  interest.  But  first  of  all  I  shall  take  a  look  at  the 
old  castld,  which  is  the  noblest  ruin  I  ever  beheld.  I 
cannot  do  better  than  give  the  reader  a  description  of  it 
by  one  who  knows  something  of  its  history. 

"  The  Castle,  anciently  the  residence  of  the  Electors 
Palatine,  presenting  the  combined  character  of  a  palace 
and  a  fortress,  is  an  imposing  ruin.  The  building  dis- 
plays tile  M'ork  of  various  hands,  the  taste  of  difiljrent 
founders,  and  the  styles  of  successive  centuries :  it  is 
highly  interesting  for  its  varied  fortunes,  its  picturesque 
situation,  its  vastness,  and  the  relics  of  architectural  mao-- 
nificence  which  it  still  displays,  after  having  been  three 
times  burnt,  and  having  ten  times  experienced  the  hor- 
rors of  war.  Its  final  ruin,  however,  did  not  arise  from 
those  causes  ;  but  after  the  greater  part  of  the  building 
had  been  restored  to  its  former  splendor  in  1718-20,  it 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


269 


was  sot  oa  S'...  by  lightninrr  in  1701  :  and  since  the  total 
confiagmtion  which  ensued,  it  has  never  been  rebuilt  or 
tenanted.     It  is  at  present  only  ii  eullectiou  of  red  stone 
wall,  and  has  remained  roofless  for  nearly  a  century.     It 
is  approached  by  a  carriage-road  from  behind,  and  by  a 
winding  foot-path  on  the  side  of  the  Neckar.     The  oldest 
part   remaining  is  probably  that  built  by  the  Electors 
Rudolph    and  Rupert.     It   has  all   the    character  of  a 
stronghold  of  the  middle  ages,  and  the  teeth  of  the  port- 
cullis still  project  from  beneath  the  archway  leading  to 
It.     The  Friedrichsbau,  named   from  the  Elector,   who 
built  it  in  1G07,  is  distinguished  by  excessive  richness  of 
decoration  :  its  facade  to  the  south  is  ornamented  with 
statues  of  ancestors  of  the    electoral  family  from  Char- 
lemagne.    The  part  of  the  building  most  deserving  of 
admiration,  for  the  good  taste  of  its  design,  and  the  ele- 
gance of  its  decorations,   is  that   which   overlooks   the 
river,  and  extends  along  the  east  side  of  the  quadrangle 
built  by  Otto  Henry  (155G),  in  the    style  called  cinque 
cento,   which  is  allied   to  the  Elizabethan  of  England. 
The  statues  of  heroes   from  sacred  and  profane  history, 
which   decorate    the   front,    though   of    (keuper)   sand- 
stone, are  by  no  means  contemptible  as  works  of  art. 


260 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


The  English  traveller  will  view  with  some  interest 
that    part   of    the    castle    called    the    English    Palace, 
from  its  having  been  built  for  the  reception  of  the  Prin- 
cess Elizabeth  Stuart,  daughter  of  James  I.,  and  grand- 
daughter of  Mary  aueen  of  Scots.     The  triumphal  arch, 
having  pillars   entwined  with  ivy  leaves,   was  erected 
by  her   husband,  the  Elector   Frederick  V.,  afterwards 
King  of  Bohemia,  to  celebrate  their  nuptials  ;  it  led  to 
the  flower-garden  which  he  caused  to  be  laid  out  for  her 
pleasure,  and  it  still  goes  by  the  name  of  Elizabethan  Pforti?. 
"  When  her  husband  hesitated  to  accept  the  crown  of 
Bohemia,    this    high-hearted   wife    exclaimed,  '  Let    me 
rather  eat  dry  bread   at  a  king's  table  than  feast  at  the 
board  of  an  elector  :'  and  it  seemed  as  if  some  avenging 
demon  hovered  in  the  air,  to   take  her  literally  at  her 
word  ;  for  she  and  her  family  lived  to  eat  dry  bread— ay, 
and  to  beg   it  before  they   ate  it ;  but  she  ivould  be  a 
queen."— Mrs.  Jameson.     The  -ranite  pillars  supporting 
the  canopy  of  the  well  in  the  corner  of  the  court   of 
the  castle   are  said   by  some  to  have  been  brought  from 
Charlemagne's  palace    at    Ingelheiiii,    though  they    are 
undoubtedly    derived    from    the    quarry    in    the    Od^n- 
wald. 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


261 


In.  a  cellar  under  the  castle  is  the  famous  Heidel- 
berg Tun ;  it  is  the  largest  wine  cask  in  the  world, 
being  capable  of  holding  800  hogsheads,  or  283,200  bot- 
tles, which  is  far  less,  after  all,  than  the  dimensions  of 
the  porter  vat  of  a  London  brewer.  In  former  days, 
when  the  Tun  was  filled  with  the  produce  of  the 
vintage,  it  was  usual  to  dance  on  the  platform  on  the 
top.  It  has,  however,  remained  empty  since  1769,  more 
than  half  a  century. 

One  of  the  towers  which  formed  the  outer  defences 
of  the  Castle  {der  Gesprengte  Thurm)  was  under- 
mined and  blown  up  by  the  French  ;  but  so  thick  were 
the  walls,  and  so  strongly  built,  that  though  nearly  the 
whole  of  one  side  was  detached  by  the  explosion,  instead 
of  crumbling  to  pieces,  it  merely  slid  down  from  its  place, 
in  one  solid  mass,  into  the  ditch,  where  it  still  remains. 
Subterranean  passages,  for  the  most  part  still  preserved 
and  accessible,  extend  under  the  ramparts. 

The  Gardens  and  Shrubberies  round  the  castle,  and 
the  adjoining  Terrace,  to  the  eastward,  afford  the  most 
agreeable  vvalks  and  splendid  points  of  view  it  is  possible 
to  conceive  over  the  Neckar,  issuing  out  of  its  vine-clad 
valley,  and  winding  through  a  plain  of  the  utmost  fertil- 


262 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


ity  to  join  the  Rhine,  which  appears  here  and  there  in 
distant  flashes  glittering  in  the  sun.  Spires  and  towers 
proclaim  the  existence  of"  cities  and  villages  almost  with- 
out number,  and  the  landscape  is  bounded  by  the  outline 
ot"  the  Vosges  mountains. 

The  best  general  view  of  the  building  may  be  obtain- 
ed from  the  extremity  of  the  terrace  raised  upon  arches, 
and  prejecting  over  the  Neckar.     The  castle,  however,  is 
so  grand  an  object,  and  the  surrounding  country  so  ex- 
ceedingly  beautiful,    that   the    stranger  will  hardly   be 
satisfied  with  seeing  it  from  one  point.    He  should  mount 
the  heights  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Neckar,  either  by  a 
path  leading  from  the  end  of  the  bridge,  which  is  steep, 
or  by  a  more    gradual    ascent    from    Neuenheim.     An 
agreeable  path,  easily  accessible,  called  the  Philosopher's 
Walk,  conducts  along  the  slope   of  the  hill  fronting  the 
town.     The  hill  behind  it,  which  stands  in  the  anjrel  be- 
tween the  valley  of  the  Rhine  and  N.^ekar,  called  the 
Heiligeberg,  presents  a  more  exte.isive  prospect.     On  the 
top    are   ruins   of  a   crstle  and  ■  incrfh  of  St.   Michael, 
which  succeeded  to  a  Roman  fort  built  on  the  spot.     In 
1391,  the  sect  called  FIag:;eilants  nade  a  pilgrimage  to 
this  holy  mountain,  clad   ,u  black,  and  wearing  a  white 


EUROPEAN"  OBSERVATIONS. 


263 


cross  in  front  and  behind.  In  the  thirty  years'  war,  Tilly 
opened  his  trenches  to  bombard  the  town  from  this 
point. 

About  50  yards  above  the  bridge,  on  the  right  bank, 
in  a  solitary  inn  called  Hirschgasse,  the  at.  dents' duels 
are  fought.  Four  or  five  sometimes  take  place  in  a  day  ; 
and  it  is  no  uncommon  t  liing  for  a  student  to  have  been 
engaged  in  25  or  30,  as  principal,  ni  the  course  of  four  or 
five  years. 

The  Konigstsuhl,  the  highest  hill  in  this  district,  lies 
behind  the  town  and  castle.  The  summit  may  be  reach- 
ed in  1 ,  or  1 1-  hour's  walk,  and  the  view  is  the  most 
extensive  in  the  neighborhood.  A  lofty  tower  has  been 
erected  for  the  convenience  of  visitors,  who  often  repair 
hither  to  see  the  sun  rise,  and  if  possible  to  extend  the 
limits  ol  the  panorama,  which  includes  the  valleys  of  the 
Rhine  and  Neckar,  the  Odenwald,  Haardt  Mountains  on 
the  W.,  the  Taunus  on  the  N.  W,,  the  ridge  of  the  Black 
Forest  on  the  S.,  with  the  castle  of  Ebersteinburg,  near 
Badcu  ^nd  the  spire  of  Strasburg  Minster,  90  miles  ofT, 
Tilly  bombarded  the  town  from  this  hill,  after  his  attack 
fron>  th}  right  bank,  and  failed  :  remains  of  his  trenches 
are  still  visible. 


2G4 


EUROPEAN   0BSERVATI0X3. 


There  is  a  small  tavern  near  the  top,  called  Kohlhol', 
where  persons  anxious  to  see  the  sun  rise  sometimes  pass 
the  night  previously. 

The  banks  of  the  Neckar  above  Heidelberg  are  very 
interesting,  and  afford  many  pleasant  excursions — one  of 
the  most  agreeable  being  to  Neckargemund  (Inn,  Pfalz  ; 
good),  six  miles  off. 

A  road,  overlooking  the  Neckar,  runs  from  the  castle, 
along  the  shoulder  of  the  hill  to  the  Wolf's  Brunnen,  an 
agreeable  walk  of  two  miles.  It  is  a  pretty  retired  nook, 
named  from  a  spring  which  rises  there.  There  is  a  small 
inn  close  to  it,  fumed  for  ito  trout." 

Here  i  s;.  v  a  ceremony  of  embracing,  which  I  never 
saw  bei.  r  a  any  country.  Dr.  Pennington,  an  Ameri- 
can delegate  for  the  colored  race,  having  once  been  made 
a  D.D.,  and  received  a  diploma  from  the  Professors  of  this 
Inslitution,  met  for  the  first  time  some  of  the  Professors  ; 
and  a  Dr.,  one  of  the  Professors,  having  been  informed 
that  Mr.  Pennington  was  among  the  strangers  who  had 
come  to  visit  the  University,  immediately  sought  for  him, 
and  they  met  in  the  old  dilapidated  chapel  inside  of  the  old 
castle.  They  made  addresses  Wi  the  crowd  first,  and 
then   they  embraced  one  another  before    the    audience, 


EUROPEAN   OBSEKVATIONS. 


205 


and  Jcissed  each  other.  While  I  was  looking  for  some 
comer  in  which  I  might  indulge  my  pardonable  smile,  I 
stumbled  over  an  old  dried  up  monk  with  his  hands  out- 
stretched towards  me  for  ah7is.  It  was,  however,  only 
an  image  clothed  in  rags. 

The  library  is  a  wonderful  collection  of  books  and 
MSS.,  both  ancient  and  modern.  Here  we  saw  Luther's 
MS.,  a  "Dissertation  on  the  Prophecies  of  Isaiah,"  and 
his  "Exhortation  to  Prayer  against  the  Turks,"  and 
other  mementos  of  him  in  different  forms. 

The  time  is  now  over,  and  I  am  required  to  return  to 
Frankfort,  just  in  time  for  the  ears  !  On  my  left  is  seated 
my  warm-hearted  friend.  Dr.  J.  W.  Crovae.  Weary, 
and  my  eyes  filled  with  dust,  I  fell  asleep.  Dreamed  of 
home — 0,  how  provoking  I 

When  we  took  leave  of  Frankfort  this  morning,  we 
left  a  German  with  a  pipe  in  his  mouth,  standing  near 
the  station,  pointing  the  passengers  to  another  part  of  the 
building.  This  afternoon  he  is  here  still,  standing  in 
the  same  place,  and  smoking  the  same  identical  pipe, 
though  it  is  probable  that  a  number  of  pipes  full  of 
tobacco  have  passed  into  smoke  since  morning.  lu  most 
cases  useless  and  noxious   things,  however  much  they 


266 


EUROPEAX   OBSERVATIONS. 


may  be  favorites  of  iLe  public,  end  in  smoke.     This  is  a 
fair  specimen  of  the  smoking  propensity  of  the  Germans. 
A7^gust  21th.    1  have  visited  a  place  of  resort  near 
Weisbaden,  the  prettiest  I  have  seen.     It  is  a  gambling 
place,  authorized  by  the  government ;  and  all  ranks  (it 
would  not  be  proper  to  say  classes),  of  the  people  go  there 
—ladies  as  well  as  gentlemen.     I  stood  in  the  hall  a  few 
minutes  ago,  and  saw  a  file  of  men  and  women,  15  or 
20  in  number,  standing  with  their  florins  in  hand  and 
throwing  them  into  a  pile,  when  a  single  toss  would  tell 
the  story  whether  they  gained  or  lost.     One  man  had  25 
florins  in  his  hand,  and  threw  one  at  a   time  until  he 
had  but  two  left,  and  those  two  won  him  back  what  he 
had  thrown  upon  the  table  and  seven  florins  besides.     Tlae 
players  sat  opposite  each  other,  with  faces  as  hard  as 
marble,  and  hearts  still  harder,  no  doubt. 

But  the  gardens,  walks,  lakes,  fountains,  are  all  beau- 
tiful. This  city  is  the  prettiest  I  have  seen  in  this  coun- 
try, without  any  exception. 

The  28th,  I  leave  for  Dusseldorf  to  visit  the  German 
poet,  Mr.  Freiligrath. 

At  9  o'clock,  I  am  on  the  Rhine,  gliding  along  in  a 
Bwift  steamer.    0,  how  delightful !     The  hill-tops  turning 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


267 


about  as  we  pass  them  by,  as  if  to  present  themselves  to 
us  in  every  position,  that  we  may  take  a  view  of  them 
on  all  sides.     The  passengers  are  all  on  deck,  gazing  as 
if  it  were  the  first  time.     There  are,  however,  a  few  ex- 
ceptions.    For  the  thousandth  time  you  exclaim,  "  What 
a  difference  there  is  in  people  !"     There  is  a  man  from 
who  seems  not  to  know  that  there  is  anything  to 
admire  in  the  scenery  around  him.     In  his  hands  is  a 
novel,  and  his  soul,  if  he  has  one,  is  wrapped  up  in  that. 
It  is  not  merely  every  creature   that  has  four  legs  that  is 
an  animal.     If  any  of  my  own  acquaintance  were  to  fix 
their  eyes  on  a  book  when  passing  over  such  a  beautiful 
country  as  this,  I  would  jerk  their  heads  up  at  the  risk 
of  offending  them,  and  tell  them  to  see  the  glorious  attire 
with  which  nature  adorns  herself 

I  enjoyed  the  trip  coming  down  much  better  than  that 
going  up,  for  there  were  not  so  many  passengers  on 
board. 

My  friend  Mr.  Close  accompanied  me  to  Dusseldorf, 
where  I  find  the  famous  poet,  who,  on  account  of  his  re- 
publican feelings  and  predilections  is  not  allowed  to  pub- 
lish his  poems  without  inspection  by  the  government. 
For  the  violation  of  this  rule  he  has  seen  the  inside  of  a 


268 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


prison — of  such  a  tolerant  character  is  the  government 
of  Prussia ! 

Him  and  his  Turkish  lady  I  find  very  affable  and  kind. 
Both  are  handsome,  and  their  minds  are  as  good  as,  yea 
better,  than  their  looks,  A  lovely  little  pappoose,  a  pic- 
ture of  innocence,  lies  nestling  in  a  cradle.  Bud  of 
promise,  unfolding  thy  tender  leaves  to  the  scorching 
heats,  the  biting  frosts,  and  the  merciless  storms  of  this 
world,  take  this  kiss  from  a  red  man  of  the  American 
wilderness.  Thou  hast  a  softer  bed,  and  more  tender 
hands  to  rear  thee,  in  this  garden  of  the  Old  World,  than 
the  wild  flower  that  buds  and  blossoms  in  the  forests  of 
the  New.  For  thy  own  and  thy  parents'  sake,  God  bless 
thee,  sweet  babe ! 

My  time  being  limited,  I  leave  for  Cologne,  where  I 
expect  to  spend  the  evening  with  men  of  science. 

About  half  a  dozen  of  us  spend  the  evening  together, 
and  endeavor  to  amuse  each  other.  Students  from 
Bonn  arrived  about  12  o'clock.  My  friends  have  been 
trying  very  hard  to  make  me  drink.  Though  this  is  a  very 
strange  way  of  showing  their  friendship,  they  are  never- 
theless friends — such  inconsistencies  do  the  customs  of 
society  subject  us  to  ! 


EUROPEAN  OBSEllVATIONS. 


269 


To  their  cordial  solicitations  I  said  "  no,"  but  finding 
they  "  would  not  take  no  for  an  answer,"  I  left  the  com- 
pany rather  unceremoniously,  about  2  o'clock  in  the 
morning.  At  an  early  hour  I  found  they  had  been  hunt- 
ing for  me  through  the  crooked  and  coffin-like  streets  of 
Cologne  until  4  o'clock,  or  daylight.  They  thought,  I 
suppose,  that  an  Indian  could  not  find  his  way  home. 

For  a  literary  and  scientific  people  these  Germans  are 
a  strange  set.  Their  recreations  are  in  proportion  to 
their  soundness  and  laboriousness  as  scholars.  Among 
other  things  which  they  learn  they  will  find  that  when 
I  say  yes  I  mean  yes,  and  when  I  say  no  I  mean  7W — 
according  to  the  scripture  injunction,  "Let  your  yea  be 
yea  and  your  nay  nay." 

While  speaking  of  this  celebrated  poet  I  here  give  a 
short  notice  of  him,  and  a  piece  of  exquisite  poetry,  from 
his  pen  : — 

"  One  of  the  most  gifted  of  modern  German  poets  is 
Freiligrath,  the  author  of  the  exquisite  poem  we  copy 
below.  His  early  education  was  a  commercial  one, 
having  served  his  time  as  a  clerk  in  a  wealthy  banking 
house  of  Holland.  He  secretly  cultivated  poetry,  while 
immersed  in  business  occupations ;  and,  unknown  to  his 


270 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


friends,  bej^an  to  contribute  to  a  German  periodical  the 
first  (iedgelin<j;s  of  his  j^cnius.     Arnon<i  his  earUcst  pro- 
ductions was  the  poem  subjoined,  which  immediately  at- 
tracted great  attention,  and  won  gohlon  opinions  for  tiie 
author.     Freiligrath  soon  left  his  commercial    pursuits, 
which  were  always  distasteful  to  him,  and  took  to  litera- 
ture for  his  profession.     Among  those  who  first  discov- 
ered and  appreciated  his  genius  was  the  i  mg  of  Prussia, 
who,  finduig  upon  inquiry  that   he  was    lepeudent  upon 
his  pen  for  a  support,  oflered  him  a  yearly  salary,  which 
would  place  him  above  want.     Freiligrath  availed  him- 
self of  this  salary,  however,  but  a  year  or  two.     At  heart 
a  liberal,  he  could  not  honestly  accept  the  patronage  of 
a  monarch  whose  policy  he  could  never  approve,  and, 
throwing  up  this  salary,  he  fearlessly  joined  the  liberal 
party,  and  published  the  celebrated  volume  of  political 
poems   called    '  Glaubensbckentrisse,'     which    were   no 
sooner  issued  than  they  were  confiscated,   and  he  was 
obliged  to  fly  the  land.     He  went  to  England,  and  there 
engaged  as  a  corresponding  clerk  in  a  commercial  house, 
until  the  revolution  in  Germany  broke  out.     He  then  re- 
turned to  Dusseldorf,  where  he  was  for  a  long  time  im- 
prisoned,   under   pretence   of    causing   a   demonstration 


Euiioi'KAN  o»sf:uvationh. 


271 


against  the  Kinp^  oi'  Prussia.  Ho  was  soon  liberated, 
however,  and  has  since,  we  believe,  returned  to  Enj^land. 
Freili<rrath  married  a  very  beautiful  and  accomplished 
<ireek  lady,  and  is  the  lather  of  two  or  three  lovely  chil- 
dren. Wo  understand  that  he  is  intendinj?  a  visit  to 
America,  to  locate  himself  if  possible  here,  as  a  Professor 
in  some  one  of  our  universities.  Americans  should  tako 
hirn  cordially  by  the  hand,  and  we  are  sure  that  a  pro- 
fessional chair  could  by  no  one  be  better,  or  more  worth- 
ily filled. 


On  tlie  soft  cuHhions  of  a  couch  of  down 
Slumbers  the  maid,  impiisoned  in  repose; 

Close  droop  lier  eyelashes,  profuse  and  brown  ; 
Her  cheek  is  tinted  like  a  full-blown  rose. 

Hard  by  there  shinunnra  in  the  smothered  light 
A  vase  of  choicest  ornament  and  mould ; 

And  in  the  vase  are  frcHh-cut  flowers,  and  bright, 
Fragrant  to  smell,  and  various  to  behold. 

Damp  are  the  heats  that,  broodingly  and  dull. 
Flow  and  flow  on  throughout  the  chamber  small ; 

Summer  has  scared  aw"'     iie  tender  cool, 
Yet  fastened  stand  t  le  casements  one  and  all. 

Stillness  around,  and  deepest  silence  lowers  ; 

Suddenly,  hark  !  a  whisper  as  of  change; 
Heard  in  the  tender  stems,  heard  in  the  flowers. 

It  lisps  and  nestles  eagerly  and  strange. 


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272 


EUROPEAN  'OBSERVATIONS. 


Swing  from  the  cups  that  tremble  on  those  stems 

The  little  spirits,  the  embodied  scents, 
Some  bearinjr  shields,  some  topped  with  diadems, 

Delicate  mists  their  robe  and  ornaments. 

From  the  flushed  bosom  of  the  queenly  Rose 

Arises  gracefully  a  slender  Lady, 
Pearls  glisten  in  her  hair,  that  freely  (lows 

As  dew-drops  glisten  where  the  copse  is  shady. 

Forth  from  the  visor  of  the  "  Helmet  plant" 
A  keen-fiiced  Knight  steps  mid  tlio  dark-green  leaves, 

His  presence  breathing  liigh  chivalric  vaunt ; 
Complete  in  steel  he  shines  from  crest  to  greaves  • 

Over  his  morion,  nodding  waywardly, 

Hangs  heron  plumage,  gray,  and  silver  pale, 

Leaving  the  "  Lily,"  with  sick,  languid  eye, 
A  wood-nymph,  thin  as  gossamer  her  veil. 

Out  of  the  "  Turk-cap"  comes  a  swarthy  Moor, 
Wearing  his  flaunting  robes  with  scornful  show ; 

On  his  green  turban  glitters,  fixed  before, 
The  golden  radiance  of  the  crescent  bow. 

Forth  from  the  "  Crown  Imperial,"  bold  and  tall, 
Sceptre  in  hand,  appears  an  ermined  King  ; 

From  the  blue  "  Iris,"  girt  witJi  falciiions  all, 
His  hunters  troop,  green-vested  like  tiie  spring. 

Sullenly  swirling  down  from  the  "  Narciss," 
A  youthful  form,  with  silent  sorrow  laden. 

Steps  to  the  bed,  to  print  his  fevered  kiss 
Upon  the  red  lips  of  the  sleeping  maiden. 


38, 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 

The  other  spirits,  crowding,  press  and  swing 
All  round  the  couch  in  many  circles  jay  ; 

They  swing  and  press  tliemselves,  and  softly  sing 
Over  the  eleeper  their  mysterious  lay  :— 

"  Maiden,  O  cruel  maiden  I  thou  hast  torn 
Up  from  the  earth  our  every  slender  tie. 

And,  in  this  gaudy  colored  shard  forlorn, 
Left  us  to  weaken,  wither,  fade,  and  die. 

"  Alas !  how  happy  once  was  our  repose 
On  the  maternal  bosom  of  the  earth, 

Where  through  the  tall  tree-tops  that  o'er  us  rose, 
The  sun  made  vistas  to  behold  our  mirth  ! 

"  The  balmy  spring,  with  many  a  gentle  breeze, 
Cooled  our  weak  stems  that  to  its  bidding  bent 

At  eve  descending  under  the  s*iU  trees 
How  blissful  was  our  faery  merriment  I 

"  Clear  on  us  then  fell  heaven's  own  dew  and  rain  ; 

Foul  water  now  surrounds  us  stagnantly 
We  fade,  and  we  shall  die— but  not  in  vain. 

If,  ere  we  pass,  our  vengeance  lights  on  thee." 

The  spirits'  song  is  hushed,  their  errand  told ; 

Bending,  around  the  sleeper's  couch  they  go; 
And,  with  the  brooding  silences  of  old, 

Retiu-ns  again  the  whispering  soft  and  low. 

Hark !  how  the  rustling  rises  round  the  wreath  ! 
How  glow  her  clieeks,  instinctive  of  their  doom ! 

See  hi)Av  upon  her  all  the  sj^irits  breathe- 
How  the  scents  undulate  throughout  the  room  I 
12* 


273 


274  EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 

The  slanted  sparkles  of  the  western  day 
Smiting  the  room,  each  spirit  vanisheth  ; 

Lpon  the  cushions  of  the  couch  she  lay  ; 
Aa  beautiful  and,  ah  !  as  cold  as  death. 

One  faded  blossom,  lying  all  alone, 

Lends  to  her  cheek  a  tender  tint  of  red, 

With  her  wan  sisters  sleeps  that  hapless  one — 
Oh !  fatal  breath  of  flowers  ! — the  maid  is  dead. 


H.    G.  K. 


They  had  agreed  to  meet  and  accompany  me  to  the 
station  for  Calais,  at  6^  o'clock,  but  only  one  was  present 
to  bid  me  farewell.  I  am  now  again  on  my  way  to  Ca- 
lais, and  London, 

Travelled  ^11  day  and  all  night — the  road  dusty,  and 
our  company  quite  jaded — a  poorer-looking  set  I  never 
saw — passed  over  Dover,  Brighton,  and  Conlay — I  am 
in  London  agaiu 


CHAPTER  XX. 


H.    G.  K. 

to  the 
present 
to  Ca- 

ty,  and 
I  never 
— T  am 


LONDO.N-  AGAIN". 

I  HAVE  just  got  inside  of  Babylon  again.  The  noise 
and  confusion  which  reign  over  this  great  city,  would 
make  stronger  heads  than  mine  to  turn  and  ache. 
"  Buses"  long  and  narrow,  low  and  humiliating,  and 
affectionately  close.  There  are  but  the  lower  classes  who 
has  mrnopolized  these  in  this  country,  and  very  seldom 
any  of  the  higher  classes  are  even  seen  in  them.  There 
are  a  great  many  thousand  of  these  conveniences  which 
run  from  the  Exchange,  London  Bridge,  and  the  great 
thoroughfares  of  the  city.  There  are  in  general  twenty- 
one  for  a  load.  Thirteen  inside  and  eight  outside,  and 
sometimes  more  than  enough. 

The  peculiar  feature  in  the  appearance  of  the  stores 
in  the  oldest  part  of  London  is  the  narrowness  of  its 
stores,  which  is  generally  the  case  in  the  famous  street 
Cheapside.     But  in  the  west  end,  the  resort  of  the  up- 


I 


276 


EUROPEAN"  OBSERVATIONS. 


per-ten-dom,  the  stores  are  more  of  a  modern  size  and 
appearance.  Particularly  so  in  Regent  street.  There 
are  stores  there  which  in  point  of  richness  surpass  any- 
thing I  have  ever  seen.  The  stores  in  New  York  are 
some  as  neat-looking  as  any  I  have  seen.  Nothing  of  all 
that  I  have  seen  surpasses  in  point  of  size,  convenience, 
elegance  of  taste,  as  that  one  in  New  York  lately  built 
by  "  Bowen  &  McNamee,"  their  extensive  silk  store, 
and  that  of  Stewart's. 

The  streets  are  generally  narrow  in  the  old  part  of  the 
city.  Long,  crooked,  high  and  dark,  dismal,  smutty- 
looking  after  a  gas-light  is  very  soon  after  that  necessary 
to  travel  with.  Or  if  no  gas-light,  a  man  must  accus- 
tom himself  to  walking  by  faith,  or  feeling. 

I  have  to  officiate  in  the  Rev.  Mr.  Luke's  Chapel  Sun- 
day twice.  As  he  is  still  on  the  continent.  A  delightful 
audience.  An  attentive  one.  And  T  sh  -ild  judge  an 
intelligent  one  also. 

The  people  here  call  their  meeting-houses  of  all  Dissen- 
ters, Chapels,  and  the  Established  Churches  are  only  to 
be  called  a  Church  or  Churches. 

The  Chapels  and  Churches  that  I  have  been  in,  in 
this  city,  are  very  old  fashioned.    No  cushioned  seats,  high 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


277 


backs,  and  one  sitting  in  them  can  sleep  very  easy,  and 
not  a  sight  of  anything  except  your  head. 

The  pulpits  are  more  like  a  barrel,  and  when  shown  in 
one  of  these  I  always  did  feel  as  though  I  was  in  a  barrel 
hooped-up  and  was  speaking  through  a  bunghole, — stand- 
ing in  one  position, — there  is  therefore  no  animation. 
Not  much  elbow-room,  neither  for  the  feet.  Cramped  on 
all  sides,  one  cannot  but  wish  for  room.  I  know  it  is 
not  necessary  with  some  to  have  any  room,  and  others 
again — that  is  the  most  effective  part  of  their  perform- 
ance, 

Monday  morning.  I  had  a  visit  from  a  gentle, 
man  and  lady  who  offer  me  a  suite  of  rooms.  And  I  am 
glad  that  the  Great  Spirit  has  put  this  into  their  hearts, 
as  to  do  me  this  kindness.  I  have  gladly  availed  myself 
of  seeing  them  early  in  this  week. 

Found  cards  in  my  room  of  people  who  have  called.  I 
must  go  to  this  and  to  that  one.  I  cannot  go  to  all,  my 
time  is  limited,  and  however  pleased  I  might  be  to  see 
them,  some  like  myself  must  be  disappointed. 

To  record  the  events  of  this  week  would  be  to  com- 
mence another  volume,  when  I  have  spent  the  most 
agreeable  part  of  my  sojourn  in  England. 


278 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


1  ■    • 

h 

||| 

'ii! 

t     • 

■  1 
■j 

"  1 

r     \      " 

;  1  ■ 
i    ^ 

■ 

■ 

1:    j 

■''i 

:( 

■  r 

';  i: 
,  t, 

i  1 
1 

j    ! 

\    j 
i 

i 
it   i 

Letters  after  letters.  This  morning  I  received  at  a 
quarter  before  9  o'clock  eighteen  letters  !  And  two  com- 
mittees have  waited  on  me,  for  to  go  and  deliver  ad- 
dresses to  their  people,  for  objects  of  Benevolence. 

I  had  expected  a  great  deal  might  be  done  to  do  some 
good  to  my  own  countrymen  in  the  way  of  presenting  the 
object  of  their  own  educational  interests,  and  for  this  rea- 
son I  endeavored  to  seek  the  aid  and  countenance  of  the 
so-called  "  Aboriginal  Protection  Society" — and  instead  of 
being  any  benefit  I  had  to  just  leave  off  everything  when 
so  many  obstacles  were  thrown  in  my  way. 

I  had  made  a  false  high  estimation  of  this  body.  A 
great  name  indeed  without  any  power.  A  body  without 
a  knowing  aim,  and  less  energy  of  purpose. 

I  seo  a  Gluaker  friend  from  Philadelphia  is  also  here  in 
the  city,  presenting  his  colonization  scheme,  in  which 
very  few  of  the  people  seem  to  interest  themselves. 

In  the  visits  that  I  made  with  a  Rev.  Gentleman  \\\ 
the  poor  districts  of  this  great  city  I  find  much  misery 
and  wretchedness. 

Another  afternoon  has  been  allotted  to  visiting  the  Rag- 
ged schools.  Certainly  it  is  not  a  poetical  name.  These 
schools  are  poor-looking  enough,  but  certainly  they  looked 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


279 


a  great  deal  better  than  names  indicated.  Delivered  five 
addresses  to-day,  and  endeavored  to  please  and  gratify 
the  young  English  boys  and  girls.     God  bless  them. 

I  have  now  delayed  over  two  weeks  in  this  city,  and 
having  received  an  invitation  to  go  to  Scotland  and  from 
Lord  Brougham  at  his  country-seat,  I  leave  now  for 
Leeds. 

The  travel  between  here  and  that  city  is  very  good ; 
and  everything  comfortable. 

Here  I  stayed  for  a  short  time  and  delivered  addresses  to 
the  sabbath-school  children  in  one  of  the  churches. 
Preached  on  Sabbath,  lectured  on  week  days,  and  visited 
during  the  day  the  surrounding  country. 

This  is  a  great  manufacturing  country.  Cloth  is  here 
made  to  perfection.  I  have  just  visited  Mr.  Rawson's 
cloth  factory,  where  I  hav  seen  the  process  of  cloth- 
makinsf. 

Here  the  railways  meet  from  all  directions — diverging 
over  the  whole  surrounding  country. 

I  used  to  read  a  great  deal  about  Leeds. 

To  look  over  it  from  the  highest  hill  near-by  appears 
as  if  it  was  one  vast  smoke  house.  Smoke,  smoke,  all 
but  smoke. 


280 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


The  consul  of  the  United  States  here  is  a  fine  hearted 
gentleman. 

In  my  visit  to  this  place  I  found  the  historical  notices 
of  this  place  as  follows,  which  I  hope  will  be  of  some  use 
to  my  readers  in  the  way  of  information  : 

"  Leeds,  the  largest  and  most  flourishing  town  of  York-, 
shire,  on  the  Aire,  is  the  metropolis  of  the  woollen  manu- 
facture, and  the  fifth  town  in  England  in  point  of  popu- 
lation and  commercial  activity.  It  is  an  ancient  town, 
and  was  probably  a  Roman  station,  but  has  been  the 
scene  of  no  historical  events.  Its  situation  is  highly  ad- 
vantageous for  manufacturing  and  commercial  purposes. 
The  chief  articles  of  manufacture  here  are  superfine 
cloths,  kerseymeres,  swansdowns,  shalloons,  carpets,  blan- 
kets, &c.  ;  plate-glass,  earthenware,  and  the  spinning  of 
flax  to  a  great  extent.  Its  merchants  also  buy  extensive- 
ly the  woollen  and  stuff'  goods  made  in  the  neighboring 
towns  and  villages,  and  get  them  finished  and  dyed  ;  so 
that  Leeds  is  a  general  mart  for  all  these  fabrics.  The 
Leeds  cloth-halls  form  an  interesting  spectacle  on  the 
market-days.  Machine-making  is  a  flourishing  business 
in  Lc;ids.  The  Leeds  and  Liverpool  Canal  connects 
Leeds  with  the  Western  sea,  and  by  means  of  the  river 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


281 


Aire  it  has  a  communication  with  the  Humber.  By 
means  of  railways,  this  town  now  enjoys  every  advantage 
which  can  be  given,  by  the  most  rapid  communication 
with  all  parts  of  Great  Britain.  Leeds  has  eight 
churches,  numerous  dissenting  chapels,  a  free  grammar 
school,  a  national  school,  a  philosophical  and  literary  socie- 
ty, a  mechanics'  institute,  a  theatre,  and  various  charita- 
ble institutions.  Leeds  was  the  native  place  of  Dr.  Hart- 
ley, author  of  Observations  on  Man ;  Wilson,  the 
painter ;  and  Smeaton,  the  celebrated  engineer.  Dr. 
Priestley,  the  distinguished  philosopher,  officiated  for 
several  years  as  the  minister  of  the  Unitarian  chapel 
here.  Leeds  gives  the  title  of  Duke  to  the  family  of  Os- 
borne, which  sprung  from  this  town.  Two  M.P.  Pop. 
of  town  and  liberty,  152,054. 

About  three  miles  from  Leeds  are  the  ruins  of  Kirkstall 
Abbey,  picturesquely  situated  in  a  vale  watered  by  the 
Aire.  This  abbey  was  founded  in  1157  by  Henry  de 
Lacy  for  monks  of  the  Cistertian  order," 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

FIRST  VISr/   TO  SCOTLAND. 

Having  always  had  a  iireat  desire  to  visit  the  coun+-y 
of  the  Scots,  I  must  leave  Leeds  and  travel  northward 
with  my  son  and  lady,  and  see  the  famed  country  so 
much  honored  with  the  songs  of  the  two  best  poets  in 
their  day — Robert  Burns  and  Sir  Walter  Scott. 

On  our  journey  we  go  first  to  see  the  birthplace  of  my 
companion  in  Knaresborough  ;  and  after  visiting  Ripon  at 
the  residence  of  Mr.  William  Hovell,  the  brother  of  my 
father-in-law.  The  numerous  curiosities  here  in  Knares- 
borough are  interesting.  I  virited  the  Dropping  Well, 
and  wrote  my  notices  a  few  steps  where  the  water  drips. 
Thus  is  a  romantic  wilderness  connected  with  all  the 
scenery  of  this  stream  of  water  which  rolls  along  so  si- 
lently here.  Rock,  bold,  and  large  trees  ovevhanging 
their  branches  are  standing  along  the  rugged  banks— and 
here  cool  breezes  assemble  and  run  in  ripples  over  th 


EUROPEAN   OBSEliVATIONS. 


283 


smooth   surface  of   the   cicar    waters    of  this   singular 
spot. 

How  often  did  i  use  to  hear  in  Canada  from  a  poitly 
fair  one  of  this  place.  The  walks,  yea,  the  moonlight 
walks,  as  the  silent  waters  rolled  underneath  in  the  deep 
shade  of  yon  valley.  Step  after  step,  then  the  waters 
descend  from  the  wood-hill,  it  emerges  and  then  sunning 
itself  in  clear  noonday  -where  the  lamb  and  the  herds 
of  the  tame  ones  are  sporting  over  the  fields  made  green 
by  its  waters. 

The  Town  Hall  is  a  wretched  place  I  deliver  an  ad- 
dress in  the  Hall,  and  find  some  warm  hearts  here  for  all 
it  does  look  rather  forlorn  just  now.  A  raiiioad  runs  by 
the  town. 

I  give  here  the  historical  notices  of  the  place  : 
"  Knaresborough  is  delightfully  situated  on  the  banks 
of  the  Nidd,  which  flows  through  a  most  romantic  valley 
below  precipitous  rocks.  The  church  is  a  large  old  struc- 
ture, containing  several  monuments.  Here  are  the  re- 
mains of  a  castle  which  was  erected  soon  after  the  con- 
quest. It  belonged  at  one  time  to  Piers  Gaveston,  the 
favorite  of  Edward  II.  In  the  year  1331  it  was  granted 
by  Edward  III.  to  his  son,  the  celebrated  John  of  Gaunt, 


284 


ELROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


and  was  afterwards  one  of  the  places  in  which  Richard 
II.  was  imprisoned.     During  the  civil  wars  it  sustained 
a  siege  from  the  parliamentary  forces  under  Lord  Fair- 
fax, and  at  last  surrendered  upon  honorable  terms.     It 
was  afterwards  dismantled  by  order  of  the  parliament. 
Part  of  the  principal  tower  is  still  remaining.     In  the 
^valk  along  the  bank  of  the   Nidd  opposite  the  ruins  of 
the  castle,  is  a  celebrated  petrifying  or  dropping  well, 
springing  in  a  declivity  at  the  foot  of  a  limestone  rock. 
Near  it  is  a  curious  excavation  called  St.  Robert's  Chap- 
el, hollowed  out  of  the  solid  rock  ;  its  roof  is  groined,  and 
the  altar  adorned  with  Gothic  ornaments.     About  half  a 
mile  lower  down  the  river  are  the  remains  of  a  priory 
founded  by  Richard  Plantagenet.     A  mile  to  the  east  is 
St.  Robert's  cave,  remarkable  oa  account  of  the  discovery 
of  a  skeleton  here  in  1759,  which  led  to  the  conviction 
and  execution  of  the  celebrated  Eugene  Aram.     Knares- 
bnrough  has  manufactories  of  linen  and  cotton,  and  its 
coru-market  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  county.     Two  M 
P.  Pop.  1,G78.     Knarosborough  v/asthe  birthplace  of  the 
famous  blind  guide  John  Metcalf.     He  had  lost  his  sight 
in  infancy,  and  yet  frequently  acted  as  a  guide  over  the 
forest  during  the  night,  or  when  the  paths  were  covered 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


285 


with  snow, — contracted  for  makinj?  roads,  buildinar 
bridges,  &c.     He  died  in  1810,  aged  ninety-three  years." 

I  visited  to-day  the  town  oi'  Harrogate.  Placed  in  a 
level  land,  and  surrounded  with  hedges,  houses  rather 
scattered.  It  is  the  Saratoga  of  the  county  of  Yorkshire. 
There  are  thousands  here  now  to  drink  the  water.  The 
mineral  springs  which  are  found  here  is  all  that  which 
has  builded  this  town — and  boarding-houses  are  as  nu- 
merous as  any  of  the  Spa  places  in  America. 

They  charge  all  they  can  get  too,  and  they  will  not 
refuse  even  any  amount  after  you  have  paid  your 
bill. 

The  Brunswick  House  is  very  good,  but  we  rather  liked 
the  "  Crown  Hotel,"  where  they  charged  us  an  aristo- 
cratic charge  for  four  days. 

Here  is  the  hisiorical  notice  of  it — short  and  brief 
We  have  had  some  good  times  here,  friends  are  kind,  and 
attended  my  lectures  well  : 

"  Harrogate  is  celebrated  for  its  mineral  springs, 
which  are  annually  visited  by  about  2,000  persons.  It 
consists  of  two  scattered  villages,  known  by  the  names  of 
High  and  Tiow  Harrogate,  situated  about  a  mile  from 
each  other,  and  possessing  ample  accommodation  for  visi- 


286 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


Ill 
i 


tors.     Harrogate  possesses  both  chalybeate  and  sulphur- 
ous springs.     Of  the  former  the  oldest  is  the  Tewit  Well, 
which  was  discovered  about  the  year  1576.     The  Old 
Spa,  situated  on  the  Stray,  was  discovered  by  Dr.  Stan- 
hope, previous  to  1631.     The  Starbeck    chalybeate  is 
about  midway  between  Harrogate  and  Knaresborough. 
The  Saline  chalybeate  is  situated  at  Low  Harrogate,  and 
was  discovered  in  1819.     The  sulphurous  springs  are, 
the  Old  Sulphur  Wells,  situated  at  Low  Harrogate,  close 
by  the  Leeds  and  Ripon  road  ;  the  Crown  Sulphur  Well, 
situated  in  the  pleasure-grounds  belonging  to  the  Crown 
Hotel ;  and  the  Knaresborough  or  Starbeck  Spa,  situated 
nearly  midway  between  Harrogate  and  Knaresborough. 
Harrogate  possesses  a    considerable    number    of  hotels, 
several  boarding-houses,  public  baths,  promenade-rooms, 
ball  and  billiard-rooms,  circulating  libraries  and  reading- 
rooms,  four  places  of  worship,  &c.     High  and  Low  Har- 
rogate contain  upwards  of  4,000  inhabitants," 

Saturday  morning  we  set  off  to  the  North,  to  the  great 
coal  place,  Newcastle-upon-Tyne. 

The  railroad  leads  over  a  quite  level  country.  Farms, 
towns,  and  gentlemen's  country-seats,  are  on  our  left  and 
on  our  right.     The  sky  is  better  here.     Coal-pits  are  all 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


287 


along  each  side  of  the  road.     And  vast  quantities  of  coal 
lay  in  heaps  just  from  the  bowels  of  the  earth, 

Newcastle  is  a  very  interesting  city ;  I  preached  here, 
and  always  had  very  full  audiences,  and  to  Mr.  McLiver 
I  am  indebted  for  this,  and  afterwards  also,  from  my 
warm-hearted  friend,  Joseph  Kimpster,  one  of  the  Dele- 
gates to  the  Peace  Congress. 

The  notices  of  this  place  are  given  as  follows  : 
"  Newcastle-upon-Tyne  is  supposed  to  have  derived  its 
origin  from  Pons  ^lii,  the  second  station  from  the  eastern 
extremity  of  the  Eoman  wall.  Previous  to  the  Conquest 
the  place  was  called  Monkchester,  from  the  number  of 
monastic  institutions ;  its  present  name  was  derived  from 
a  castle  erected  here  by  Robert,  eldest  son  of  William 
the  Conqueror,  on  his  return  from  an  expedition  into  Scot- 
land. Nev/castle  was  anciently  the  resort  of  numerous 
pilgrims,  who  came  to  visit  the  holy  well  of  .lesus' 
Mount,  now  Jesmond,  a  mile  north-east  of  the  town. 
One  of  the  principal  streets  in  Newcastle  is  still  called 
Pilgrim  Street.  Another  ancient  town,  called  Pampedon, 
appears  to  have  been  included  in  the  limits  of  the  modern 
Newcastle  ;  its  name  may  be  traced  in  the  modern  Pan- 
don  Hall,  Pandon   Bank,  &c.     Newcastle  has  been  the 


I 


288 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


scene  of  many  most  interesting  events  in  the  history  of 
England.     David  I.  of  Scotland  made  himself  master  of 
the  town  in  the  reign  of  Stephen,  and  obliged  the  people 
to  swear  allegiance  to  the  Empress  Maude.     Here  John 
of  England  and  William  the  Lion  of  Scotland  had  a  con- 
ference  in   the  year    1209.     Here  again  Alexander  of 
Scotland  and  his  dueen  came,  in  1235-36,  and  had  a 
conference  with  the  King  of  England.     Here  John  Baliol 
did  homage  to  Edward  I.  for  the  crown  of  Scotland.     In 
1293,  the  famous  Sir  William  Wallace,  in  one  of  his  in- 
roads into  England,  made  several  vehement  but  unsuc- 
cessful  attacks   upon   the   town.     In   1318,  during  the 
reign  of  Edward  II.,  an  unsuccessful  attempt  at  a  perma- 
nent peace  between  the  Scots    and  English  was  made 
here — two  nuncios  from  the  Pope,  and  two  envoys  from 
Philip  of  France,  besides  the  English  and  Scotch  com- 
missioners, being  present.     In  1342,  David  Bruce,  King 
of  Scotland,  made  an  unsuccessful  attack  upon  the  town 
shortly  before  the  battle  of  Neville's  Cross  ;  and,  twelve 
years  afterwards,  commissioners  met  here  to  consult  on 
his  ransom.     In  1012,   Newcastle  was  besieged  by  the 
Scottish  army  under  General  Lesley  ;  but  the  Marquis  of 
Newcastle,  who  was  governor  for  the  King,  successfully 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


289 


defended  the  town  against  him.  In  the  next  year,  how- 
ever, the  Scots  under  General  Leven  took  it  by  storm ; 
but  Sir  John  Marlcy,  then  mayor,  retired  to  the  castle, 
with  about  .'jOO  men,  which  he  held  till  terms  of  capitu- 
lation were  obtained.  In  1G36,  above  5,000  persons  died 
of  the  plague  at  Newcastle.  In  1646,  Charles  I.  was 
brought  hither  from  Newark  by  the  Scots,  to  whom  he 
had  surrendered  himself  Newcastle  is  supposed  to  have 
been  incorporated  by  William  Rufus  ;  but  the  first  mayor 
was  appointed  in  the  reign  of  Henry  III. 

The  town,  which  has  more  than  doubled  its  size  during 
the  present  century,  is  situated  on  the  summit  and  decliv- 
ities of  three  lofty  eminences,  rising  from  the  north  bank 
of  the  Tyne,  and  ten  miles  from  its  mouth.  The  town 
of  Gateshead  occupies  the  opposite  bank,  and  may  be  re- 
garded as  a  sort  of  suburb  of  Newcastle.  "  A  strange 
mixture  of  ancient  and  modern  objects  strikes  your  eye  in 
the  more  lofty  and  prominent  features  of  Newcastle. 
There  stands,  tall,  and  stalwart,  and  square,  and  blaclc  as 
ink,  the  old  donjon-keep  of  Robert  Curthose,  the  son  of 
the  Conqueror.  To  the  left  still  higher  towers  over  the 
town  the  fine  steeple  of  St.  Nicholas,  and  to  the  right 

the  new  and  lofty  column  in  honor  of  Earl  Grey.     Here, 

13 


I 


290 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


along  the  banks  of  tho  river,  you  see  ranges,  one  above 
another,  of  dim  and  dingy  buildings,  that  have  stood  for 
centuries  amid  the  smoke  of  the  great  caj)ital  of  coal ; 
and  there,  on  its  bold  eminence,  a  Grecian  fabric,  stand- 
ing proudly  aloft,  like  the  Temple  of  Minerva  in  Athena. 
Beyond  it,  agaui,  you  catch  the  tops  of  houses,  and 
ranges  of  streets,  that  indicate  a  degree  of  modern  mag- 
nificence which  at  once  astonishes  you  in  the  midst  of  so 
much  that  is  difierent,  and  stimulates  you  to  a  nearer  in- 
spection."* 

Newcastle  has  undergone  a  most  wonderful  change 
during  the  last  few  years.  In  the  centre  of  the  town  the 
old  and  narrow  streets  have  been  swept  away,  and  some 
of  the  noblest  and  most  magnificent  streets  and  squares 
in  the  kingdom  erected  in  their  room.  Tho  person  by 
whose  genius  and  industry  this  marvellous  change  has 
been  effected  is  Mr.  Grainger,  a  native  of  the  town,  who 
has  made  his  way  from  the  condition  of  a  charity  boy, 
and  the  apprentice  to  a  carpenter  and  builder.  "  The 
following,"  says  Miss  Martineau,  ■'  is  a  surnmaiy  of  five 
years'  work  of  Mr.  Grainger,  from  August,  1834,  to 
August,  1839.  The  old  property  removed  consisted  of 
*  Howitt's  Visits  to  Remarkable  Places,  2d  Series,  p.  287. 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


291 


two  theatres,  the  late  butcher-market,  Anderson  Place, 
one  large  inn,  eight  public-houses,  eighty  private  houses, 
and  a  great  number  of  work-shops  and  inferior  buildings. 
The  site  of  the  improvements  cost  XH5,937,  workmen's 
wages  and  materials,  X'199,753  ;  total,  £G45,G90.  Out 
of  this  have  arisen  the  following  :  nine  new  streets,  ex- 
tending collectively  1  mile  289  yards  ;  the  new  market, 
the  central  exchange,  new  theatre,  new  dispensary,  music 
hall,  lecture  room,  two  chapels.  Incorporated  Company's 
Hall,  two  auction  marts,  ten  inns,  twelve  public-houses, 
forty  private  houses,  and  325  houses  with  shops.  The 
value  of  the  whole  Amounts  to  £995,000."  Besides 
these  magnificent  erections,  Mr.  Grainger's  plan  compre- 
hends the  junction  of  .several  railways,  the  formation  of 
extensive  quays,  the  erection  of  ranges  of  manufactories, 
and  on  the  high  ground  of  villas  and  terraces. 

The  other  objects  of  interest  in  Newcastle  are  St.  Nich- 
olas' Church,  a  handsome  edifice,  with  a  beautiful  spire 
in  the  form  of  an  imperial  crown,  an  altar-piece,  by  Tin- 
toretto, and  a  valuable  library,  containing,  among  other 
curious  books,  the  Bible  of  Hexham  Abbey ; — St.  An- 
drew's Church,  a  very  ancient  structure,  part  of  it  of 
Ncrman  architecture — St.  John's  Church,  containing  an 


202 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


ancient  font  and  several  ancient  monuments  ;  All  Saints' 
Church,  a  modern  edifice  of  Grecian  architecture,  with  a 
steeple  202  feet  high;  St.  Ann's,  St.   Thomas's,   Mary 
Magdalene,  &c. ;  the  infirmary,  the  Keelmen's  Hospital, 
the  monument  erected  to  Earl  Grey,   surmounted  by  a 
statue  of  that  nobleman  ;  the  Royal  Arcade,   250  feet 
long,  by  20  wide  and  35  feet  high,  &c.     The  new  cover- 
ed market  is  pronounced  to  be  the  finest  in  the  kingdom. 
Its  area  is  more  than  two  acres.     Newcastle  also  pos- 
sesses several  meeting-houses,  hospitals,  and  other  chari- 
table institutions,  a  literary  and  scientific  institution,  con- 
taining a  fine  library  and  reading  room,  a  museum  room  of 
Egyptian  antiquities,  a  gallery  of  Eoman  altars,  and  other 
antiquities,  &c.     The  free  gramrpar  school  was  founded 
by  Thomas  Horsley,  who  was  mayor  of  Newcastle  in 
1525.     Here  the  late  Lords  Eldon,  Stoweil,  and  Colling- 
wood,  the  poet  Akenside,  and  other  eminent  persons  re- 
ceived the  earlier  part  of  their  education. 

The  principal  business  of  Newcastle  is  in  the  shipment 
of  coals,  the  produce  of  the  surrounding  coal-pits.  About 
three  millions  of  tons  of  coals  are  shipped  annually  from 
the  river  Tyne.  The  other  chief  articles  of  export  are  lead, 
cast  and  wrought  iron,  glass  and  pottery,  copperas  and 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


293 


other  chemical  productions,  soap,  colors,  grindstones,  salt, 
and  pickled  salmon.  The  imports  are  wine,  spirituous 
liquors,  and  fruit,  corn,  timber,  flax,  tallow,  and  hidea 
from  the  Baltic,  and  tobacco  and  various  other  articles 
from  North  America. 

Newcastle  returns  two  members  to  Parliament.  Pop. 
49,860." 

Newcastle  is  a  noted  place,  and  of  late  the  railway 
king,  George  Hudson,  has  done  some  good  to  this  town 
by  having  an  iron  and  stone  bridge  which  has  been  placed 
across  the  chasm  that  forms  the  winding  of  the  river. 
A  beautiful  piece  of  workmanship  it  is  too. 

A  white  man,  a  day  or  two  ago,  deliberately  took  off 
his  clothes  on  the  top  of  this  bridge  and  jumped  down  to 
the  water  just  for  the  amusement  of  the  bystanders — 
after  coming  up,  he  took  up  a  collection  among  the  wit- 
nesses to  his  performance. 

Good  as  this  place  is,  and  kind  as  the  friends  are  to  us, 
we  must  travel  still  northward,  to  Edinburgh. 

The  railroad  scuds  over  the  country  which  perceptibly 
begins  to  change  into  a  mountainous  region  from  a  low 
monotonous  country,  yea,  the  road  leads  over  a  beautiful 
country,  just  by  precipices  nearly  overhanging  the  sea- 


I 


:i  ■ ! 


294 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


P. 


shore  On  one  side  is  liie  mountain  region,  on  the  other 
is  the  ocean  sweeping  on  its  bosom  a  thousand  ships,  and 
far  off  is  a  steamer  like  a  mere  speck  in  the  ocean.  Its 
snake-like  trail  behind  hangs  and  is  lost  in  the  clear  sky 
from  behind. 

Though  I  have  letters  of  some  importance,  yet  I  cannot 
find  it  so  convenient  to  be  dependent  altogether  to  great 
names  as  long  as  one  can  halp  himself. 

And  now  we  are  in  Edinburgh  !  the  great  city  of  the 
Scotch  people.  This  is  that  Castle  which  often  I  have 
heard  about,  and  now  recurs  to  me  a  scene  which  I 
saw  some  years  ago  in  my  native  land.  It  was  a  group 
of  Scotch  people  who  had  just  settled  near  by  my  father's. 
Just  then  I  began  to  hear  them  speak,  and  I  heard  the 
name  Edinburgh,  and  Edinburgh  Castle  so  often  that  I 
could  speak  it,  if  I  could  nothing  besides — for  an  elderly 
woman  with  a  pipe  in  her  hand  was  sitting  in  the  cor- 
ner of  the  log-fire,  and  she  in  speaking  of  "  Edinburgh 
Castle,"  wept  like  a  child.  "  Na,  na,  na,  ever  see  Edin- 
burgh Castle,"  said  she,  as  she  shook  her  head  into  her 
lap. 

I  love  to  see  in  any  one  a  love  of  country,  so  much  as 
to  weep  at  the  mention  of  one's  birthplace. 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


295 


And  this  is  the  city  of  palaces,  and  there  are  a  great 
many  things  to  admire  in  this  city.  It  is  situated  in  a 
romantic  and  abrupt  country — high,  naked  liills, — grim- 
visaged,  hard-browed,  and  frowning  with  dignity.  And 
amidst  this  country  so  full  of  hills  and  so  full  of  valleys 
is  this  city  situated.  There  is  yonder  palace  where  the 
dueen  of  Scots  lived,  "  Holyrood  Palace,"  and  on  that 
high  hill  is  the  Edinburgh  Castle,  in  which  King  James 
was  born. 

0  what  lovely  sight  it  is  to  see  in  this  wild  scene 
monuments  to  the  memory  of  Scott  and  Burns  I  I  can 
hardly  see  Nelson's  on  account  of  these  others. 

1  traversed  this  city,  and  saw  a  great  many  good  men — 
the  Rev.  William  Ried,  one  of  the  most  eloquent  divines 
of  this  country,  and  a  go-a-head  reformer.  Noble  and 
generous.  God  bless  his  heart.  I  spend  a  part  of  a  week 
here  and  the  other  in  Glasgow,  and  I  might  stay  here  all 
the  rest  of  my  days  among  a  people  who  seem  to  be  so 
full  of  kindness. 

I  delivered  three  lectures  in  Edinburgh  and  two  in 
Glasgow,  and  finding  I  am  required  to  be  in  London  at 
the  first  great  meeting  of  the  people  who  are  friendly  to 
the  cause  of  Temperance,  I  must  again  repair  to  London. 


296 


EUKOrEAX  OBSERVATIONS. 


Si 


I'  h 


While  I  stayed  in  Edinburgh  I  met  J.  P.  Nichols, 
LL.D.,  with  whom  I  found  much  interest,  as  he  has 
been  in  America,  and  spoke  much  in  favor  of  the  Ameri- 
cans as  a  kind-hearted  race  of  people. 

I  took  breakfast  with  Professor  Simpson,  the  discov- 
erer of  chloroform,  near  the  sea-shore  with  other  friends. 
A  man  of  middle  age,  stature  full,  and  rather  in  the  al- 
dermanic  order,  his  face  well-proportioned, — and  his  fore- 
head indicates  his  acquired  fame. 

The  strangest  thing  that  I  saw  was  the  fossil  tree,  the 
remains  of  a  tree  in  the  rock  under  the  hill  of  stone, 
which,  in  blasting  for  rocks  they  found  in  a  state  of  preser- 
vation, having  turned  into  a  rock.  There  it  still  lay 
perfect — its  roots — and  branches,  and  tapered-ofT  some- 
what inclined. 

This  is  about  25  or  30  feet  under  the  hill,  and  a  short 
distance  from  the  water.     No  one  can  tell  how  long  this 

may  have  lain  here. 

After  speaking  to  crowded  houses  lu  Edinhurgh  and 
Glasgow,  I  must  leave  for  London,  ._,  i,„o  way  of  Ber- 
wick. 

And  after  a  travel  of  a  day  and  a  half  I  am  again  in 
London. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 


LECTURES  AND  ADDRESSES  IN  LONDON, 
AND  TRAVELS  TO  THE  NORTH. 


The  great  meeting  at  the  Loudon  Tavern  is  over,  and 
the  papers  are  full  of  notices  of  it.  Some  applaud  and 
some  condemn  the  speeches. 

It  was  a  brilliant  sight  indeed.  Crowds  had  to  leave 
for  want  of  room. 

I  will  sit  down  and  write  about  it  to  one  of  the  Boston 
papers — of  things  in  general  which  I  have  seen,  and  what 
I  have  done  in  my  northern  tour. 

London,  Oct.  25th,  1850. 
EuiToiJs  New-Englander  : — 

Though  I  have  been  very  silent  since  I  came  to  this 
country,  it  is  not  that  I  have  been  idle.  i 

After  enjoying  the  tour  through  Germany,  Holland  and 

Belgium,  I  came  to  the  city  of  London,  and  have  bten 

travelling  in  tlio  North  of  England  for  live  weeks,  and 

13* 


"9SBHW* 


298 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


saw  a  glimpse  of  the  Highlands  of  Scotland.  I  must 
say,  M'ith  reference  to  the  home  of  the  nohle-hearted 
Scotch,  it  is  near  like  the  grandeur  of  America  Ours  is 
of  course  better. 

In  my  tour  to  the  North,  I  have  delivered  lectures  in 
the  principal  cities  and  towns  on  my  way,  which  were 
well  attended.  I  found  in  Newcastle-upon-Tyne  a  very 
warm  reception,  and  when  I  came  away  felt  as  though  I 
was  leaving  my  only  friends.     I  hope  to  see  them  again. 

In  Scotland  I  found  a  people  sturdy,  energetic,  enter- 
prising ;  and  in  Edinburgh  I  can  say  I  have  friends  who 
will  always  be  in  the  right  place  in  my  heart.  Here- 
and-there  I  ha/e  delivered  temperance  lectures  ^or  the 
people,  and  though,  in  this  laud  of  "  drinking,"  one  has 
to  have  an  unusual  precaution  not  to  be  led  by  the  pop- 
ular fashion  of  drinking  ;  for  if  any  one  is  to  dine  with 
lords  and  dukes,  there  it  is  temperance  principles  are  to 
be  tested.  Comparing  this  country  with  America,  the 
latter  is  a  sober  country,  for  here,  beer-drinking  and  gin- 
drinking  are  the  bane.  The  English  are  a  beer-drinking 
nation, — the  Scotch,  a  whiskey-drinking  nation, — and  the 
French,  a  wine-driiiking  nation.  Each  of  these,  of 
course,  drink  other  drinks  besides  cold  water,  but  it  is  the 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


299 


I 


above  peculiar  drinks  iu  which  each  excels.  And  yet, 
through  England  and  Scotland  the  people  are  at  work  in 
organizing  societies  for  the  prevention  of"  this  bane  of  civ- 
ilization. 

In  Scotland,  I  addressed  the  young  abstainers  styling 
themselves  the  "  League  of  Temperance,"  twice — once 
in  Edinburgh,  and  again  in  Glasgow.  There  were  over 
4,000  children  assembled  in  the  Free  Presbyterian  As- 
sembly-room, where  I  saw  a  sight,  which,  when  I  could 
look  into  the  future,  I  could  say  from  my  heart,  "  When 
these  shall  become  the  representatives  in  the  world  forty 
years  from  now,  should  they  continue  to  abstain,  old  Al- 
cohol will  die  from  starvation  for  the  want  of  victims, 
and  this  land,  long  polluted,  will  be  seen  by  angels  with 
envious  eyes  I  0,  let  it  come  1"  I  heard  these  children 
sing,  and  while  they  sang  their  parents  could  look  with  a 
smile  as  they,  thought  of  the  bright  future.  I  tried  to 
say  something,  but  my  heart  was  too  much  disturbed. 
But  I  will  tell  you  what  I  did  and  said  after  the  lecture 
was  over.  I  told  the  children  there  were  a  great  many 
thousands  of  young  teetotallers  in  America,  i  asked  the 
children  to  give  three  cheers  for  the  young  abstinence 
cause  m  Europe  ;  they  did,  boys  and  girls  waving  caps, 


■OMRHMii 


iiiBiiuKii 


300 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS, 


Mt. 


pocket-handkerchiefs,  aprons,  &c.,  with  a  sound  hke 
that  of  many  waters  I  And  then  ''once  more,  three 
hearty  cheers  for  all  young  ahstainers  in  North  America." 
Then  it  was  I  heard  a  cheer  which  lasted  for  more  than 
a  minute.  The  immense  huilding  in  every  part  was 
crammed. 

I  addressed  also  a  meeting  in  a  large  chapel  in  Glas- 
gow, and  that,  too,  was  crowdingly  attended, — though  it 
is  perilous  for  me  to  go  to  Scotland,  on  account  of  the 
kindness  of  the  people.  I  am  going  again  in  the  course 
of  two  weeks,  and  after  enjoying  several  more  meetings, 
I  hope  to  leave /o/'  tnij  native  land. 

0,  how  dear  is  my  land  to  me  ! 
If  now  no  other  way  could  I  see 
Than  to  swhn  across  over  tlie  wide  sea, 
I'd  see  my  home — and  then  see  thee  ! 

I  attended  at  the  "  London  Tavern"  the  first  of  a  se- 
ries of  temperance  meetings  which  are  to  he  held  during 
the  coming  winter,  or  during  the  World's  Fair. 

I  cannot  chronicle  every  event  which  transpired  in  my 
stay  in  this  city.  The  meetings  I  attended  in  the  suh- 
urbs  of  the  city  were  interesting.  Norwood,  Kentish- 
town,  Maberly,  Westminster,  kc. 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


301 


Here  I  became  acquainted  witli  a  jieullemau  by  tlie 
name  of  John  Cassell,  a  coflce-dealer,  a  Yunkeo-EiijrliBh. 
man,  tall  and  well  mado.  Me  related  to  me  tlie  time 
■wdien  he  used  *o  deliver  temperance  lectures  throuj,diout 
the  country.  I  believe  he  is  now  very  rich.  He  is  the 
principal  mover  in  this  great  temperance  demonstration. 

My  lectures  and  addresses  were  always  well  attended. 

Here  also  I  became  acquainted  with  the  great  English 
Temperance  Apostle  Jabez  Burns,  D.D.  Preached  for 
him  and  attended  several  temperance  lectures  with  him. 
I  found  him  very  favorably  disposed  to  the  Americans  hi 
general,  and  yet  hates  the  institution  of  slavery. 

I  had  to  get  myself  an  office  at  the  Strand  where  I 
could  see  the  people  who  called  on  me  every  day. 

The  great  temperance  demonstration  has  taken  place 
in  Drury-lane  Theatre,  being  the  largest  hall  or  house 
which  could  be  got,  as  the  Old  Exeter  Hall  is  now  un- 
dergoing repairs. 

Committee  after  committee  has  called  to  get  me  to  de- 
liver a  Jresses  for  benevolent  purposes.  Letters  are 
pouring  in  from  the  surrounding  country, — of  pressing  in- 
vitations. I  wish  1  could  go  and  sec  them  all,  it  would 
gratify  me  very  much. 


302 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


It  has  been  raining  for  some  time,  and  the  fog  of  this 
country  is  different  from  any  other— the  mud  and  fog 
are  the  same,  for  in  these  narrow  streets  the  mud  flies, 
and  the  fog  is  all  down  in  the  mud,  so  heavy  is  the  at- 
mosphere. 

I  was  pleasantly  quartered  with  a  gentleman  in  Vin- 
cent Square  while  I  stayed  there. 

This  is  the  last  Sabbath  I  am  to  be  in  the  city. 

My  appointments  run  to  the  North  as  follows  :— 


Nov. 


7,   185C 

1     .     .     . 

London. 

8,     " 

•          •          • 

Manchester. 

9,     " 

•          ■          • 

Manchester. 

10,     " 

(Sunday,) 

London. 

11,     " 

•           •           • 

Huddersfield. 

12,     " 

•          •           • 

Manchester. 

13,     " 

•          •          • 

Huddersfield. 

14,     " 

.     . 

York,  (7  1-2  o'clock.) 

15,     " 

.     .     . 

Darlington,  (7  1-2  o'clock.) 

16,     " 

•          •          • 

«                    a                   «« 

17,     " 

(Sunday,) 

Newcastle-upon-Tyne. 

18,     " 

.     •     * 

Sunderland. 

19,     " 

.     .     . 

York. 

20,     " 

t     •     • 

Sunderland. 

21,     " 

•     •     • 

Darlington. 

22,     " 

♦     •     > 

Newcastle-upon-Tyne. 

EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


303 


Nov.  23,   1850     .     .     .     Edinburgh. 
"     24,     "     (Sunday,)     Edinburgh. 
.     .     Edinburgh. 
.     Edinburgh. 
.     Dundee. 
.     Perth. 
.     Dundee. 
.     Glasgow. 
(Sunday,)     Paisley. 
.     .     Glasgow, 
.     .     .     Perth. 

Edinburgh. 
.     .     Edinburgh. 

Travel  to  Liverpool. 
.     .     .     To  sail  for  America  by  the 
steamer  Africa. 


Dec 


« 


25, 

26, 
27, 
28, 
29, 
30, 

1, 
2, 
3, 
4, 
5, 
6, 
7, 


Such  are  my  appointments  before  I  sail  for  ray  native 
land. 

To  begin  with,  I  am  not  well  and  have  already  disap- 
pointed two  of  my  audiences  at  Manchester.  A  cold  has 
been  on  me  which  has  prostrated  me. 

I  am  just  able  to  go  and  fill  my  London  appointment 
at  the  Rev.  S.  Luke's. 

The  following  is  the  address  which  I  gave  because 
many  here  had  heard  of  a  plan  which  I  had  pioposed  to 
the  general  Government  of  this  country  for  the  purpose 


I 


lii'! 


804 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


of  doing  something'  good  for  our  Indians.  And  I  deliv- 
ered this  for  the  purpose  of  doing  the  cause  of  my  race 
some  good  before  the  British  public. 


II 


II 


i 


THE  EVANGELIZATION  OF  THE  NORTH   AMERICAN 

INDIANS. 

"  My  people  are  destroyed  for  lack  of  knowledge." — Hosea  iv.  6. 

"  I  have  taken  upon  myself  this  afternoon  to  adopt  the 
language  of  God  in  the  movxth  of  His  prophet,  785  years 
before  the  birth  of  the  Saviour  ;  and  perhaps,  in  the  midst 
of  this  crowded  audience,  there  is  no  one  who  is  more  fit 
to  adopt  these  words  than  myself  '  Mi/  people  are  de- 
stroyed for  lack  of  knowledge.' 

In  speaking  of  the  history  of  my  brethren,  the  North 
American  Indians,  I  cannot  help  referring  to  the  many 
evils  which  have  tended  to  reduce,  or  demoralize,  and  to 
ruin  them,  since  the  discovery  of  the  western  continent. 
In  view  of  all  that  I  have  seen,  as  well  as  of  all  which 
history  relates,  I  can  adopt  the  language  of  the  text : 
'  My  people  are  destroyed  for  lack  of  knowledge.'  And, 
in  speaking  this  afternoon  briefly  upon  the  subject,  T 
would  first  endeavor  to  engage  your  attention,  by  refer- 
ring to  the  means  of  the  destmction  of  the  North  Ameri- 


EUIIOPEAN    OBSERVATIONS. 


305 


can  Indians,  arising  from  their  social  disarrangement 

the  conditirii  in  which  they  were  found,  when  America 
was  first  discovered.  It  has  been  the  idea  of  many,  tliat 
the  downfall  and  ruin  of  some  nations  is  absolutely  ne- 
cessary, before  they  can  be  blessed  by  Christian  educa- 
tion ;  but,  on  referring  to  the  structure  of  society,  and  the 
elements  which  have  caused  their  downfall  and  ruin,  you 
will  find  that  it  has  not  been  altogether  through  the  iron 
will  of  Him  that  lives  above,  that  they  have  declined 
and  disappeared  from  the  face  of  the  earth.  And  this, 
which  applies  especially  to  the  Indians,  will  be  found  to 
hold  good,  in  most  instances,  with  regard  to  the  other  na- 
tions of  the  earth.  What,  then,  has  caused  the  ruin  and 
the  downfall  of  the  Indians  of  North  America  ? 

One  of  the  first  reasons  is,  that  of  the  273  Indian 
tribes  of  America,  about  a  quarter  of  them,  that  have 
had  to  do  with  Europeans,  have  come  in  contact  with  the 
worst  classes  of  society.  There  is  a  class  of  men,  roman- 
tic in  their  ideas,  adventurous  in  their  spirits,  and  reck- 
less in  their  lives,  having  no  morals,  nor  fear  of  God's 
law,  nor  regard  to  the  common  law  of  mankind  ;  and 
these  are  the  first  to  come  in  contact  with  the  diflerent 
races  of  men  all  over  the  earth      They  have  nothing  in 


306 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


the  shape  of  morality,  or  of  Christian  education — that 
education  wliich,  in  coming  in  contact  with  the  nations 
of  the  earth,  warms  up  their  universal  characteristic, 
which  is  veneration.  These  have  been  the  men,  that 
have  sowed  discord  and  perpetuated  so  many  jars  in  our 
country,  and  produced  the  greatest  prejudices  against 
civilization  or  education  in  the  minds  of  the  Indians. 
They  reason  thus.  If  these  are  the  specimens  of  civil- 
ized life,  they  have  little  predilection  to  become  civilized 
after  the  same  manner.  They  have  little  or  nothing  to 
do  with  Christian,  civilized,  good  people  ;  they  are  ac- 
quainted only  with  the  worst  classes  of  society,  who 
prowl  about  the  forest,  like  roaring  lions,  and  on  their 
way  sow  destruction  and  discord  ;  and  instead  of  him 
who  once  could  send  up  a  shout,  and  a  merry  shout  of 
his  children,  to  the  skies,  grief,  misery  and  distress  have, 
step  by  step,  followed  the  course  of  the  Indian, 

The  second  reason  that  I  give,  why  the  Indians  of 
North  America  have  not  improved,  but  have  been  reduced 
in  numbers,  since  they  have  come  in  contact  with  Eu- 
ropean races,  is,  the  introduclion  of  ammunUlon  of 
tear,  in  the  shape  of  rifles  and  muskets.  It  is  true  that 
the  Indians  were  just  as  expert  with  the  bow  and  arrow, 


iiii 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


807 


before  they  came  in  contact  with  the  races  of  men  that 
had  what  they  termed  the  "serpent,  that  spits  out  fire 
and  death,"  which  was  their  definition  of  a  gun  ;  but  they 
soon  saw  that  a  shot  would  do  more  execution  than  an 
arrow;  and  therefore,  in  their  wars  among  themselves, 
they  have  destroyed  one  another  ten  times  more  than  be- 
fore they  possessed  such  a  weapon. 

The   third   reason   is,    that   the    Indians    have    been 
brought  together  on  both  sides  of  the  armies  of  the  Eii- 
ropean  poivers  that  have  fought  in  our  country.     The 
Spanish,  the  French,  the  Dutch,  the  Americans,  and  the 
British,  have  all  called  out  the  aid  of  the  savage  from 
the  forest  wilds,  to  arm  ag.Mst  their  supposed  enemies. 
Before  this  the  Indians  knew  not  what  they  were  at  war 
with  each  other  for  ;  but  the  Indian's  prowess,  bravery, 
stern  nature,   have  been  appealed  to,  and  he  has  been 
caused  to  leave  his  forest  wild,  and  in  the  midst  of  the 
war-shout  and  the  death-song  he  has  sung  and  danced 
like  a  fiend,  intoxicated,  as  it  were,  by  the  promises  that 
have  been  given  to  him,  in  the  event  of  victory.     But  the 
Indian  goes  back  to  the  wood,  and  no  one  cares  for  him, 
much  less  to  teach  him  Christianity. 

The  fourth  reason  is,   because  the  institutions,  or  at 


308 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


least  the  i^chnoh,  that  have  hren  established  in  our  coun- 
tnf,  have  not  met  the  icants  of  the  Indian  youth.     It 
has  been  an  itk-a  of  some  of  our  missionaries,  that  in 
order  to  become  educated  we  must  be  taught  in  our  own 
laujiuaf^^e.     Tiiereforc  the  Indians,  in  learning  their  own 
lauguaf^e,  have  perpetuated  their  own  ideas,  and  had  no- 
thin«T  to  do  with  English  literature.     Twelve  years  ago, 
when  I  first  began  to  speak  the  English  language,  1  used 
to  tell  the  missionaries—"  Teach  the  Indian  children  the 
English  language,  and  you  will  not  be  under  the  necessi- 
ty of  teaching  them  their  own,   for  that  will  come  to 
them  naturally."     For  instance.     There  are  some  letters 
in   the   English  alphabet  which  we  omit  entirely — such 
as  f,  I,  r,  V,  X  ;  these  are  altogether  silent — we  have  no 
use  for  them.     Now,  if  we  are  taught  in  our  own  lan- 
guage, we  cannot  make  any  use  of  these  ;  but  the  sooner 
we  are  taught  the  English  language,  the  sooner  will  we 
be  introduced  into  the  wide  fields  of  the  past,  as  well  as 
the  literature  of  the  white  man  ;  and  by  reading,  learn- 
ing,   transforming    gradually   the    entire    feelings,    the 
thoughts,  the   actions,  the  very  emotions  of  the  Indian, 
we  become  even  ivs  the  noble  white  man  that  loves  his 
God.     But  because  we  have  been  taught  in  our  own  Ian- 


EUROPEAN  OBSEItVATlOXS. 


309 


F 


guage,  we  have  been  perpetuating  our  old  ideas  from  one 
to  another.  Two  or  thiee  years  back  I  visited  tiie  west- 
ern country,  went  through  the  valleys  of  the  Mississippi 
and  the  Missouri.  There  I  saw  that  the  missionaries  had 
begun  to  adopt  what  I  told  them,  and  what  th-v  ought 
to  have  done  in  the  first  instance.  Now  we  are  twenty- 
live  or  thirty  years  in  our  progress  behind  what  we  should 
have  been,  if,  at  the  moment  we  came  in  contact  with 
good  men,  we  had  been  taught  English  education.  The 
Ignorance  that  arises  from  our  not  learning  the  English 
language  in  the  first  instance,  has  been  another  of  the 
means,  indirectly,  of  the  decrease  of  our  race. 

Fifthly,  diseases  of  sl  foreign  nature  have  been  intro- 
duced—diseases  which  were  not  before  known  among  us 
—such  as  the  small-pox  and  other  epidemics,  and  the  dis- 
eases arising  from  a  course  of  vicious  habits ;  and  nation 
after  nation  has  died,  through  not  knowing  how  to  check 
these  diseases.  Thus,  the  Mandans,  and  others  in  the 
west,  were  once  powerful  nations.  In  the  years  '37  and 
'38  the  small-pox  raged  among  the  nations  of  the  west ; 
and  one  of  those  tribes  that  suffered  most  I  saw  a  year 
ago,  last  October.  When  the  old  chief  perceived  that  his 
village  was  dying  away  every  hour— that  his  wife  was 


i|^ 


, 


810 


EUROPEAN   OnSEUVATIONS. 


declining,  that  some  of  his  family  had  already  died,  and 
that  himself  was  about  to  fall  a  victim  to  the  horrible 
disease,  he  said  to  his  two  sons — "  (io  to  the  cast,  to  the 
wigwams  of  the  white  man  ;  never  look  back  ;  go  right 
to  the  cast,  and  tell  ther  i  that  we  have  all  died  here  in 
our  village."     They  started,  and  went  across  the  Council 
Blufis  ;  and  at  the  fall  of  that  year  the  yovmger  of  the 
two  got  his  brother  to  go  back   again  ;  and  there  they 
saw  their  once  populous  village  all  desolate,   and  their 
whole  country,  as  it  were,  laid  waste  by  this  dreadful  dis- 
ease ;  and  when  they  went  to  their  wigwam,  they  saw 
the  remains  of  their  relatives.     They  hunted  round  the 
different  places,  to  bee  if  they  could  discover  any  traces 
of  their  father.     They  went  just  below  the  spring,  and 
there  they  saw  something  in  the  shape  of  a  coat ;  they 
weut  up  to  it,  and  perceived  the  remains  of  their  father  ; 
his  old  pipe,  that  he  often  had  with  him  in  his  council, 
lay  by,  his  pouch  also  by  his  side.     There  he  lay,  with 
his  head  towards  the  water,  as  if  he  had  gone  there  to 
die.     The  youngest  of  the  brothers  went  to  the  top  of  the 
hill,  near  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  stood  looking  about 
wildly  over  the  whole  country,  that  seemed  to  have  been 
covered  by  the  ravages  of  disease.     His  brother  war,  just 


EUROPEAN  0I3SEUVATI0NS. 


311 


in  the  act  of  going  away  from  him  ;  and  this  yonng  man 
could  not  bear  the  idea  that  they  two  were  the  only  rep- 
resentatives of  a  village  of  nearly  two  thousand  people. 
He  looked  round  on  the  country  in  which  he  once  lived, 
and  the  fields  over  which  he  had  sported,  and  seemed  as 
if  taken  by  despair.  He  seized  his  gun,  put  the  muzzle 
of  it  to  his  mouth  ;  and  when  his  brother  turned  to  look 
at  him,  he  saw  the  flash  ;  and  he  fell  a  victim  to  despair. 
Such  are  the  effects  of  disease  in  our  country. 

The  last  reason  that  I  will  give,  why  the  Indians  of 
North  America  have  decreased  so  much,  is  the  use  of  al- 
coholic drinks.     The  Indian  has  no  uolished  society  to 
check  him,  no  social  ties  to  restrain  him  ;  and  therefore, 
when  he  comes  in  contact  with  the  intoxicating  liquor  he 
drinks  and  drinks,  and  step  by  step  digs  his  grave,  and 
down  he  goes.     This  is  perhaps  one  of  the  strongest  rea- 
sons I  have  named.     The   whole   of  our   country   was 
blessed  with  the  smiles  of  the  Great  Spirit,  before  such 
things  were  introduced  among  us  ;  and  now  what  is  the 
consequence  ?     The  gradual  diminishing  of  some  nations, 
and  the  utter  extinction   of  others.     Gradually  do  they 
recede  towards  the  setting  sun,  till  it  has  become  a  creed 
to  the  white  man,  that  it  is  of  no  use  to  endeavor  to 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


check  their  progress,  and  to  save  the  North  American  Iii- 

diaris. 

These   are  some  of  the  things,  my  friends,  that  have 
produced  the  duwufall  and  ruin  of  ray  brethren.     But  I 
am  surprised  to  find  even  in  Christian  lands,  where  I  see, 
and  am  dehghted  to  see,  the  white  man  engaged  in  read- 
in"-  this  blessed  Book,  that  ho  should  think  he  discovers 
in  that  Book  some  things  that  might  be  construed  into 
the  idea,  that  the  imi  law  of  God  is  that  which  has 
crushed  and  made  few  the   noble  sons  of  America.     It 
is  not  so,  mv  breihren.     1  read  in  a  diflerent  light  from 
this  the  character  of  the  God  whom  you  love  and  serve. 
His  benevolence  is  written  ui  the  page  of  nature  around 
me  ;  and  every  blade  of  glass,  and  the  sweet  sounds  that 
vibrate  on  my  ear,  and  salute  my  heart  with  feelings  of 
warm  emotion,  tell  me  that  the  God  who  made  the  earth 
is  a  God  of  love.     The  God  that  we  adore,  my  brethren, 
is  not  the  author  of  the  downfall  and  ruin  of  the  North 
American  Indians  ;  it  is  the  laws  of  nature  disarranged 
altogether  in  the  Indian,  by  the  elements  of  destruction 
which  I  have  named,  which  has  caused  his  downfall. 

'  But,'  it  may  be  asked,  '  why  is  it  that  the  Indians  of 
North  America  have  not  improved,  when  they  have  been 


EUKOPEAN  OBSEKVATIONS. 


313 


iu  contact  M'ith  Christian  men,  and  since  cfTorts  have 
been  put  forth  to  save  them  ?'     It  is  too  often  the  case, 
that  because  we  place  so  much  vahie  on  what  little  we 
bestow  for  the  cause  of  Almighty  God  that  we  expect  in 
a  short  time  to  receive  an  equivalent,  in  the  shape  of 
trophies  to  His  glory.     I  have  in  my  hand  a  little  work, 
which  illustrates  the  gradual  progress  of  the  North  Amer- 
ican Indians  in  literature.     Among  the  Indians  to  which 
I  belong,  the  Ojibway  nation,  our  publications  amount  to 
fifty-three,  consisting  of  translations  of  different  books  for 
schools,  as  well  as  the  Word  of  God.     We  have  a  good 
deal  of  the  Old  Testament  translated  into  our  language, 
and  the  whole  of  the  New  Testament.     The  Mohawks 
have  five  or  six  translations  of  various  works  ;  the  Sene- 
cas  also  have  different  translations.     The  Shawnees  have 
a  variety  of  literature,  which    belong    to  them  alone. 
The   Ottawas   have   five  or  six  translations  of  English 
literature,  as  well  as  of  the  Bible  and  Testament.     The 
Menomenes,   Wyandott,   Sioux,    Chickasaws,   Choctaws, 
Creeks,  Osages,  and  the  Cherokees— all  these  Indian  na- 
tions have  various  books,  for  the  purpose  of  improving 
the  young  mind.     The  Cherokees,  perhaps,  have  improv- 
ed a  great  deal  faster    than  the  other  Indian  nations, 

14 


I  i 


I 


I'i 


irri 


!  11 


814 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


thou'^h  their  having  been  ilrivou  iVom  their  abode,  the 
side  of  the  Mississippi,  has  prevented  them  IVom  improv- 
ing so  fast  as  they  would  otherwise  have  done.     The 
Ojibways  are  begimiing  to    have    several  of  their  own 
seminaries  amongst  them,  for  the  purpose  of  perpetuating 
pure  principles  in  our  country  :  and  if  living  in  brick 
houses,  and  having  farm-yards,  that  are  filled  with  diflbr- 
ent  kinds  of  domestic  animals,  and  fields  that  wave  be- 
fore the  wind,  are   no   signs  of    ivilization,  the  Indians 
will  never  become  civilized.     If  the  Indian,  having  been 
taught  the  means  of  elevation,  have  not  exhibited  any 
energy  of  character,  in  order  to  grasp  the  great  truths 
that  were  presented  to  his  mind,  and  store  them  in  his 
heart — then  his  condition  is  a  hopeless  one.     We  have 
sometimes  been  told  that  tlie   Indians  cannot  improve  ; 
but  send  one  of  our  young  men  into  your  halls  of  educa- 
tion, and  see  if  he  will  be  behind  four  or  five  white  boys 
that  are  sent  there  at  the  name  time,  with  the  same  ad- 
vantages for  instruction.     Not  one  of  these  I  have  known 
that  have  been  sent  into  religious  schools,  but  what  has 
come  back  at  least  with  a  great  deal  of  credit  to  himself, 
and  much  gratification  to  the  hearts  of  those  that  sent 
him.     The  composition  of  the  Indian's  mind  is  like  that 


EUKOPEAN    OUSKHVATIONS. 


315 


of  the  Saxon  race;  it  only  iv.iuircB  hard   ruhbitig,  i,i  or- 
der to  hriuiT  out  the  briglitost  and  best  (lualities. 

'  Wliat,  then,  have   missions  done  V     This  has  oll.-u 
been  asked  me,  hy  people  in  this  cou.itry,  as  well  as  in 
America  ;  lau-hing  at  the  idea  of  our  missions,  as  il'they 
had  not  done  anything,  and  pointing  with  the  finger  of 
scorn  at  the  scenes  of  their  labors.     Now,  if  these  peoj.le 
can  give  us  a  plan  that  has  worked   better  than  ours,  I 
certainly  will    adopt  it,  provided  it  be  attached  to  the 
eternal   throne  ;  but  do  not  tell  me  that  splendid  laws, 
and  education,  and  such  policy  as  this,  is  alone  io  be  the 
means  of  profiting  the  nation  to    which  I  belong.     It  is 
not  your  farms  nor  your  palaces  tliat  we  want  ;  it  is  that 
sanctified  education  that  has  made  your  people  become 
powerful,  energetic,  and  prosperous.     But  do  not  tell  me 
that  education  alone  is  necessary,  in  order  to  elevate  the 
Indian.     Why,  my  brethren,  I  like  education  very  well ; 
but  apart  from  Christianity,  apart  from  the  morals  of  the 
Gospel,  it  is  like  building  a  splendid  mansion  by  the  sea- 
side  ;  in  a  few  years  it  will  begin  to  reel,  and  down  it 
must  thunder  at  last  upon  the  waters.     But  place  the 
edifice  upon  the  liock  that  was  given  Ibr  the  salvation  of 
the  world,  and  build  it  as  high  as  the  skies,  and  it  will 


816 


EUROPEAN    OBSERVATIONS. 


remain,  to  guide  the  pathway  of  geueralions  in  the  fu- 
ture. When  you  have  the  principles  of  the  Gospel  to 
cement  a  structure  of  this  kind,  it  must  stand,  and  per- 
petuate its  blessings  to  those  who  live  around  its  base. 
This  is  the  kind  of  education  that  we  want  for  the  red 
man  of  the  west. 

We  have  had  diversity  of  missions.  Our  Methodist 
friends  work  their  way  ;  our  Presbyterian  friends  their 
way ;  our  Baptist  friends  their  way,  the  Episcopalian 
church  their  way,  the  Moravians  their  way.  Why,  my 
dear  friends,  when  it  concerns  the  salvation  of  a  na- 
tion— why  do  we  go  to  perpetuate  the  heart-burnings 
gendered  in  the  breasts  of  those  who  alike  read  and  learn 
the  laws  of  God  and  the  Word  of  God  ?  If  any  one 
comes  into  our  country  as  a  missionary,  I  would  to  God 
that  he  would  leave  all  his  dogmas  behind  him,  and 
bring  the  simple  Word  of  truth  in  his  hands,  with  his 
heart  swelling  with  the  work  that  is  before  him.  It  is 
then  that  he  will  become  like  a  comet,  blazing  forth  in 
the  dark  mind  of  the  Indian.  This  diversity  has  been 
one  of  the  great  means  of  retarding  the  progress  of  im- 
provement ;  because  the  missionaries  think  that  they  are 
hired,  for  £50,  or  £G0,  or  X80  a-yoar,  to  go  and  perpet- 


i 


KUUOPEAN   OHSKRVATIONS. 


817 


uato  the  particiiliir  views  of  the  (leiimiiiiialiori  that  setit 
thorn  ;  whereas  the  luihaiis  do  not  even  know  that  there 
are  sueh  views.  Wc  want  the  morals  ol"  tlie  (Jospel  ; 
we  want  that  kind  otinstrnetion  wliieh  shall  open  heaven 
itself,  and  let  down  the  j^entle  stream  of  Uod's  j^raee,  and 
which,  instead  of  difluHinfi^  diseord  and  conlendirip;  ele- 
ments, shall  hind  soeiety,  as  it  were,  in  one,  and  teach 
men,  for  mutual  ^^ood,  to  labor  side  by  side,  in  unfolding 
the  bainier  of  Christ, 

And  now  in  reference  to  the  cause  which  I  have  to 
advocate  before  you.  Ever  since  the  first  settlement  in 
North  America,  cmi<?ration  has  been  prcssinjaf  westward 
to  the  setting  sun.  For  the  last  o50  years  the  avarice 
of  the  wicked  white  man  has  pawed  and  gnawed  the 
property  of  the  Indian,  and  has  been  crying  every  day, 
*  more  land,  more  1;  m1  ;'  and  the  Indian's  wigwam  has 
been  destroyed,  and  he  has  felt  the  cflects  of  the  rapid 
stride  of  emigration  ;  and  this  has  kept  him  from  im- 
proving, as  he  ought,  from  the  missionaries.  I  have 
aided  several  denominations  of  missionaries  in  the  west, 
and  pointed  out  to  them  what  I  thought  the  best  sta- 
tions ;  but  after  laboring  thus  for  several  years,  I  began 
to  see,  that  in  order  to  do  good  we  must  get  the  Indians 


318 


EUUDl'KAX   OUSKIIVATIONH. 


into  a  parlicular  locality,  wIrto  wo.  mif^lit  coiiCL'iitnito 
oursolvos,  to  fiivc  thoiu  iiisliuotioii  of  a  moral  and  re- 
ligious oharactor.  ]\ly  idea  has  lliorolore  been,  to  iullu- 
cnco  tlie  Congress  of  lu  ■:  i  uited  States  to  give  to  us,  at 
the  north-west,  a  territory — a  country  about  150  miles 
square,  on  Avliieh  to  locate  the  Indians  who  are  already 
partly  civilized, — those  that  want  to  become  civilized 
might  come  in  one  after  another  voluntarily, — and  to  let 
all  the  rest  of  the  continent  be  given  for  the  white  man. 
If  a  fifth  or  a  sixth  of  the  proceeds  of  our  lands,  or  the 
annuities  of  the  Indians,  were  to  be  placed  at  the  dispo- 
sal of  men  capable  of  marking  out  the  best  places  to 
build  school-houses  and  provide  masters,  it  would  be  suffi- 
cient for  the  whole  country  to  be  blessed  by  Christian 
education.  Our  missionaries,  when  they  come  in  contact 
with  the  government,  do  not  say  anything  ;  if  they  do, 
they  are  represented  as  being  antagonistic,  and  the  cause 
of  both  the  missionary  and  the  Indian  sufl'er.  Now  let 
that  land  be  given  xis — institutions  of  learning  and  build- 
ings, would  soon  commence — to  carry  on  a  civil  form  of 
government,  that  the  civilized  Indians  might,  after  a 
while,  assemble  to  make  laws  for  themselves ;  till  they 
have  irrigated  the  whole  of  that  country  with  streams  of 


KII|{()I'KAN    OUSKHVATIONS. 


819 


lileralun!  and   luiowlcdifc,  mul   talu-ii   Hindi   a   courHC  as 
hIijiII  nunv-  oiidcar  llicin    to  tlir  |i('(t|)I(!    who   live   around 

I  need  iiol  iiHk  you,  my  (Vit'iidH,  to  liHlcii  to  mo  as  to 
the  practicability  of  this  (h',si<rii,  hocausi!  I  have;  already 
detaiiu'd  you  too  Umir  ;  hut  permit  mo,  in  (U)ii(duHion,  to 
say,  that  this  state  oi'  tliiiif^s  is  desired  not  only  by  those 
who,  like  iiiyHelf,  have  seen  the  necessity  of  such  iiujas- 
urcs,  but  even  by  the  Indians  that  know  not  one  letier 
of  the  ali)habet  ;  and  inany  of  them  have  been  the  lore- 
most  to  shake  me  with  their  warm  hands,  and  encoura^^e 
me  in  my  visits  amon^^  Ihem,  and  also  in  claimiuf^  the 
attention  of  the  American  people  to  the  subject.  I  re- 
member that,  in  the  month  of  ()ctol)er,  when  I  went  to 
the  /:,'reat  Missouri  river  one  mornin<^,  I  rode  about  sixteen 
miles  before;  the  run  ros<!,  in  order  to  see  the  elifls  of  bar- 
ren clay  on  tlie  Council  JUulls.  About  seven  miles  dis- 
tant the  smoke  from  the  wi^f warns  of  a  thousand  'odges 
ascended  at  the  other  side  of  the  stream.  At  five  miles 
yonder  I  saw  the  as(;endin<.r  of  another  column  of  smoke 
to  the  skies.  When  1  went  there,  1  saw  an  old  chief. 
Through  the  medium  of  an  mterjireter — for  I  do  not  un- 
derstand all  the  Indian  languages — he  asked  me  what  I 


320 


EUIlOrEAX    OBSERVATIONS. 


was  doing  in  that  country,  since  he  understood  I  had 
come  a  great  way  from  the  north-east.  He  was  told  that 
I  had  travelled,  and  visited  the  Indian  nations  beyond 
the  two  valleys  of  the  Mississippi  and  the  Missouri,  and 
the  base  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  lor  the  purposf  of  re- 
ceiving their  encouragement,  or  obtaining  their  assent  to 
my  plan  for  asking  the  government  of  the  United  States 
for  a  country  of  the  description  I  have  named.  When  I 
felt  the  warm  grasp  of  this  old  man,  nearly  seventy  years 
of  age,  who  had  seldom  received  the  hand  of  a  civilized 
Indian  before,  and  saw  the  fiery  sparl'  '  ish  from  his  dark 
eyes,  of  intense  interest  and  anxiety,  it  was  to  tell  me — 
"  Onward,  then,  onward  I  Stop  not  at  those  things 
which  may  intervene.  The  day  will  come,  when  the 
Indian  with  the  white  man  shall  be  blessed  with  a  homo 
like  this."  Yes,  my  brethren,  difficulties  have  been  in 
my  way.  The  language  I  had  to  learn  first ;  and  I  have 
not  at  command  as  much  means  as  I  should  like.  This 
has  been  another  thing  that  has  impeded  my  way.  But  if 
labor  is  to  bring  the  object,  if  tcil  is  to  bring  it,  if  energy 
is  to  bring  it,  I  have  long  laid  my  soul  and  body  upon  the 
altar,  for  the  salvation  of  my  brethren ;  and  I  look  for- 
ward to  the  day,  when  I  shall  see  them  enjoying  Chris- 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


321 


tian  institutions,  as  you  enjoy  them.  I  have  sometimes 
gone  to  the  summit  of  some  of  your  public  buildings,  as 
■well  as  of  those  in  other  countries  which  I  have  visited, 
and  I  have  seen  chapels  and  churches  rising  all  through 
the  country,  dotting  the  entire  land  of  the  pale-face  ;  and 
wherever  1  have  seen  a  religious  institution,  it  has  told 
mc  that  it  was  intended  to  perpetuate  the  glorious  prin- 
ciples of  Christianity. 

When  I  go  back  to  America,  I  hope  to  renew  my  re- 
quest to  the  Congress.  On  the  25th  of  last  February  I 
placed  a  memorial  in  their  hands  ;  and  it  has  been  refer- 
red to  a  committee.  The  committee  have  not  yet  acted 
on  the  measure,  in  consequence  of  the  agitation  on  the 
slavery  question.  I  expect  now  to  go  acroiis  the  great 
deep  to  my  native  land  again,  to  renew  my  request  for  a 
grant  of  land,  there  to  plant  missionaries,  to  open  schools, 
and  to  invite  my  Indian  brethren  to  receive  education. 
And  oh  I  my  brethren,  shall  I  ask  you  this  afternoon, 
that  you  will  follow  me  to  the  setting  sun  with  your  pray- 
ers  ?  I  have  seen  tears  moisten  the  face  of  the  white 
man  ;  I  have  seen  his  eyes  swimming  in  the  waters  of 
sympathy  ;  I  am  glad  that  Providence  pointed  out  a  way 
for  me  to  come  to  your  country  ;  and  could   I   but  carry 


322 


EUJIOPEAN   OHSEllVATIONS. 


with  me,  without  injury  to  your   people,  the  elements 
which   have  made  you   become  a  f^reat  nation — could  I 
but  go  to  the  west,   and   there  sow  the  seed  that  shall 
Bpriiif?  up  under  the  smiles  of  the  Great  Spirit,  for  me  to 
enjoy  a  morsel  of  the  cflects  of  my  labors,  I  should   be 
richly  rewarded,  even  though  they  prove  not  entirely  suc- 
cessful before  I   die.     On  the  7th  of  December  I  expect 
to  sail  for  America,  and  to  call  out  two  of  my  elder  breth- 
ren, one  to  the   western,   another  to  the  eastern  states  ; 
and  it  is  my  purpose  to  go  to  the  south,  and  hold  public 
meetings  all  over  the  country,  in  order  to  bring  about  that 
kind  of  influence  which  may  act  upon  Congress,  upon  a 
certain  day,  in  the  city  of  Washington      On  the  last  oc- 
casion I  M-as  asked  to  present  my   address  to  the  two 
houses.      I  did    not  consent,    because    I    had   not   then 
matured    my  plans   so  much    as  I  have  since  ;  but  if 
that  privilege  is  given  me,  I  purpose  laying  my  plan  be- 
fore them,  on  the  25th  of  February,  1851,  and  to  ask  as 
a  Christian  that  we  may  receive  a  grant  of  land,  on 
which  to  plant  the  standard  of  the  cross,  and  that   as  it 
waves  there  our  Indian  children  may  receive  the  glorious 
principles  of  the  Christian  religion. 

My  brethren,  when  1  hear  such  agitation  in  the  public 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


323 


mind,  with  respect  to  the  aggression  of  one  part  of  what 
is  called  Christendom,  in  this  country,  I  do  not  wish  to 
disparage  one  of  you  hy  saying,  that  we  have  been  sleep- 
ing for  a  Icng  time,  while  the  enemy  has  been  watching 
us,   and  has  sent  his  own  children,  even  into  the  forests 
.  of  America,  and   they,  with  their  imposing  pictures  of 
saints,  have  set  aside  the  heathenish  worship  of  the  Indi- 
ans, and  placed  theirs  in  its  stead  :  not  a  kind  of  Chris- 
tian moral  training,  but  only  a  training  c^  the  senses,  in- 
stead of  that  heart-training  which  is  so  necessary.     I  do 
not  wish  for  anything  of  this  kind  in  my  native  land.     I 
have  seen  these  men  place  the  cross  of  Christ  on  the  tops 
of  their   churches,  instead  of  keeping  that  cross  in  the 
heart,  where  it  may  be  cherished,   and  throw  out  the 
graces  that  it  bestows.     My  brethren,  we  want  you  to  be- 
come our  teachers.     We  want  you  to  point  out  to  us  the 
true  elements  of  greatness ;  and  if  we  can  reach  your 
world  easier,  we  will  perhaps  come  and  see  you  oftener. 
I  am   glad  that  it  belongs   to  the  Christians  in  North 
America,  at  the   end  of  the  nineteenth  century,  to  show 
what  Christianity  has  done  for  the  Indian.     I  have  some- 
times looked  at  your  little  children  that  you  love  and  ad- 
mire, and  as  I  have  watched  their  tiny  hands  and  feet,  I 


24 


EUUOPEAN   UllSKUVATlONS. 


II 11 


have  thought  to  rnyself— '  Terhaps  these   little  creatures 
will  one  (lay,  when  I  am  an  old  man,  come   and  plant 
themselves  in  my  native  land  ;  and   they   may  be   the 
very  ones  that  shall  lead  the  Indian  to  hisdod,  and  make 
the  wide  territory  of  the  Indian  resound  with  the  praises 
of  the  Most  Hijrh.'     Send  them  to  us,  my  brethren.     We  • 
will  cherish  them  near  us.     Oh  !  that  God  may  direct 
their  footsteps  to  us,  that  we  may  receive  from  their  lips 
the  education  for  which  we  plead  for  our  Indians.     May 
God  prosper  the  white  man  of  this  country  I     May   He 
bestow  His  mercies  upon  him  still  ;  and  while  the  pray- 
ers of  your  children  ascend  from  the  earth,  may  a  drop 
of  its  answer  come  to  the  wigwam  of  the  Indian,  that  ho 
may  receive  benefits  by  your  gifts,  by  your  benevolence 
and  by  your  prayers  I" 

The  above  is  from  the  British  Pulpit. 

On  my  way  throughout  those  towns  which  I  have 
visited  I  have  found  friends.  And  I  could  here  fill  page 
after  page  in  narrative  to  their  many  kindnesses,  which 
when  I  think  of  them  I  am  with  them.  There  are  the 
friends  in  Darlington,  Mr.  John  Harris,  the  Pecses,  the 
mayor  of  Sunderland,  and  the  mayor  of  Newcastle.     In 


EUKOrEAN   OllSKHVATlONS. 


325 


all  the  towns  1  have  visittMl  I  have  delivored  lectures  on 
subjects  whieh  are  iiiore  familiar  to  me,  such  as 

The  Religious  Belief,  Poetnj  and  Elofjticncc  of  the 
N.  A.  Indians. 

The  Pecidiarilics  of  the  Indians — Their  Manners 
and  Cusfoms. 

The  Probable  Origin  of  the  iKdians  and  their 
Traditions,  Courtship,   tj'-f. 

One  whieh  has  interested  most  is  the  following  : 

America  :  its  Elements  of  Greatness  and  its  Scenery. 

Here  is  a  notice  of  one  of  those  from  the  Yorkshircman, 
ill  York : — 

"  A  lecture  was  delivered  on  Wednesday  evening,  in 
the  Lecture  Hall,  Goodramgate,  by  Kah-ge-ga-gah-bowh. 
Mr.  Thomas  Monkhouse  was  called  upon  to  preside. 
The  lecture  embraced  a  view  of  America — its  elements, 
and  its  scenery.  The  country  of  which  he  intended  to 
speak  was  North  America  proper.  The  scenery  of  North 
America  was  one  of  diversified  grandeur — possessing  the 
natural  features  of  climate  peculiar  to  all  nations — 
from  the  warmth  of  the  south  to  the  coldness  of  the 
north, — j^ssessing  a  wildness  and  a  brilliancy  that  can 
only  be  seen  in  the  vast  magnificence  and   variety  of 


II 


326 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


America.  As  America  was  on  the  day  when  first  dis- 
covered, so  is  she  to  be  found  at  the  present  day.  He 
should  scorn  that  man  who  did  not  love  his  native  coun- 
try, and  therefore  he  hoped  his  audience  would  excuse 
him.  The  land  he  was  about  to  speak  of — to  place  be- 
fore their  mind's  eye,  was  a  scene  ancient  in  itself,  sub- 
lime in  its  development,  and  one  that  any  man  might 
covet.  In  the  ambrosial  south  was  to  be  found  every- 
thing that  the  heart  of  man  could  desire.  He  did  not 
speak  of  North  America  as  the  country  of  his  adoption. 
It  was  America,  in  her  forests  and  her  plains  that  he 
called  his  home, — it  was  that  land  which  his  fathers  held 
by  right  and  by  possession.  He  reminded  his  audience 
that  North  America  is  washed  on  one  side  by  the  waves 
of  the  Pacific,  and  on  the  other  by  the  waters  of  the  At- 
lantic— on  each  side,  therefore,  bounded  by  two  mighty 
oceans.  Its  mountains  stretch  far  out  from  the  south 
and  extend  away  to  the  north,  displaying  the  many 
beauties  with  which  one  half  the  country  is  interspersed, 
and  which  but  few  other  lands  could  boast  of.  Its  lofty 
mountains  and  extensive  valleys  possess  a  majestic  wild- 
ness,  contrasted  with  its  universal  hills.  Its  ^rivers  are 
mighty  oceans,   and   away  into  the   far  interior  of  that 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


327 


country,  run  those  mighty  oceans.  As  for  its  lakes  they 
were  like  inland  seas.  The  chain  of  lakes  was  connected 
with  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  on  they  rolled,  until,  step  by 
step,  step  by  step,  they  fall  down  into  tlie  falls  of  Nia- 
gara ;  and  still  rolling  on  until  they  emerge  into  the  far 
oceans  of  the  east.  The  lakes  of  this  magnificent  and 
fertile  land  were  not  like  the  little  pond — but  extending 
into  the  country,  to  the  distance  of  two,  three,  four,  and 
five  hundred  miles,  and  about  250  miles  wide.  In 
Speaking  of  the  rivers  of  America  the  Chief  related  an 
anecdote.  He  was  standing  on  Blackfriars  Bridge  with 
a  friend  one  day,  who  asked  him  '  if  he  had  ever  seen 
such  a  river  ?'  '  Perhaps  he  had,'  replied  the  Chief  '  I 
suppose,'  said  the  friend,  '  the  Mississippi  is  a  little  lar- 
ger ?'  The  Chief  replied  to  this,  'It  is  a  little  larger, 
and  perhaps  a  little  clearer,  too.'  Speaking  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi he  said,  you  may  stand  on  the  highest  peak  in 
the  north  and  watch  it  running  towards  the  east  into  the 
northern  lakes.  There  sloping  its  course  travels  the  Mis- 
sissippi 2,500  miles  until  it  reaches  the  regions  of  the 
arctic  world.  lie  came  now  to  describe  the  source  of 
this  mighty  river.  He  travelled  with  a  friend  in  1844 
along  this  river  in  a  canoe.     After  travelling  through 


328 


EUllOPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


the  lakes  for  two  days  and  a  half,  they  came  to  a  place 
where,  from  the   shallowness  of  the    creek,  they  were 
obliged  to  lift  out  their  vessel.     Following  this  course 
for  another  seven  miles  they  came  to  a  place  where  they 
saw  it  bubbling  forth  from  the  side  of  a  hill.     There  he 
laid  his  hands  across  the  stream.    It  seemed  not  to  move,  so 
gentle  was  that  tide.     Then  he  took  away  his  hand,  and 
the  Mississippi  travelled  on  as  usual.     So  small  was  that 
stream  that  he  stepped  over  it  and  then  back  again,  and 
there,   lost  in    wonder,  he    stood  beside  that  little    tiny 
stream,  and  watched  it  pass  him  by  ;  not  a  noise  it  made. 
He  followed  the  stream — that  tiny  thing  which  he  held 
in  the  palm   of  his   hand — until  he  beheld   it  deepen  its 
way,  and  swell  its  sides,  and  gather  a  mighty  power  in  its 
road.     He  saw  it  struggling,  and  as  they  turned  towards 
the  sun,  they  could  see  the  mighty  Mississippi  rolling  on 
its  majestic  course — on  towards  the  southern  climes — until 
it  unbosomed  itself  in  the  great  gulf  of  the  south.     The 
lecturer  next  noticed  the  snowy  mountains,  and  others 
covered    with    fire,   and  having  described  these  in   his 
usual  eloquent  style,  he  proceeded  to  notice  the  soils  of 
America.     The  soil  in  that  land  in  its  temperate  clime  is 
good,  and  he  thought  it  the  best,  perhaps,  for  Europeans. 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


329 


Whilst  speaking  of  the  soils,  he  deemed  it  necessary  to 
make  this  remark  with  respect  to  emigration.  Emi- 
grants inquired  as  to  the  best  places,  and  he  advised  no 
emigrant  to  go  south  of  the  southern  base  of  the  Missouri, 
nor  north  of  Lake  Superior  which  he  called  the  temper- 
ate climate.  South  of  the  ulissouri  the  inhabitants  are 
subject  to  bilious  complaints  and  other  diseases.  The 
climate  he  pointed  out  was  well  suited  to  Europeans, 
being  situate  between  the  extreme  heat  and  the  extreme 
cold.  With  respect  to  the  soil,  he  said  he  had  observed 
it  to  be  as  good  5,  6,  and  7  feet  down  as  at  the  surface. 
He  said  a  man  with  £1,000  could  obtain  one  of  the  best 
farms  in  the  western  world.  Having  said  this  much  for 
its  soil,  the  Chief  proceeded  to  speak  of  its  forests  in  con- 
nection with  its  prairies.  In  the  forests  of  his  native 
land  he  had  travelled  month  after  month  without  finding 
an  opening.  It  seemed  a  world  of  forest  amid  those  lofty 
American  pines,  towering  away  to  the  height  of  250  feet, 
— in  their  majesty  waving  and  bowing  in  the  skies — 
and  seeming  to  laugh  at  and  defy  the  powers  of  the  ele- 
ments. It  was  here  his  forefathers  lived  when  first  dis- 
covered. Having  no  fireworks  to  amuse  themselves  or 
their  children  with,  sometimes  the  natives  set  fire  to 


i 


330 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


these  forests,  and  then  it  seemed  as  though  the  whole 
forest  world  was  in  a  blaze,  throwing  its  lurid  flame 
around,  and  lighting  up  the  distant  hills  in  the  dead  of 
night.  The  whole  of  this  country  is  flat,  abounding  with 
buffalos,  elks,  and  deer.  The  minerals  of  America  were 
next  touched  upon.  Abundance  of  lead  is  found  in  the 
north  part  of  Illinois  and  Wisconsin.  The  Indians  dis- 
covered this  mineral  about  200  years  ago,  and  made  use 
of  it.  It  then  lay  upon  the  surface  of  the  hills,  and  the 
natives  used  it  to  write  thereon  their  traditionary  stories. 
In  Wisconsin,  there  is  abundance  of  copper,  as  well  as  in 
the  State  of  New  Jersey.  Lake  Superior,  also,  was  said 
to  be  nearly  lined  with  copper.  The  Pittsburg  company 
had  made  immense  sums  with  the  copper  mines,  and  had 
declared  a  dividend  of  75  per  cent.  The  next  mineral,  so 
much  coveted  by  the  pale-face,  the  red-face,  or  the  In- 
dian as  well,  was  gold.  He  exhorted  his  hearers  to  be- 
lieve about  one  third  of  the  stories  they  had  heard  respect- 
ing California.  He  next  proceeded  to  review  America 
as  a  land  of  promise.  It  was  a  land  mighty  in  its  natu- 
ral productions.  It  was  the  residence  of  a  race  of  men 
having  mind,  and  lofty  moral  faculties  ; — a  nation  of  pro- 
gress, developing  the  grand  powers  of  man.     When  they 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


831 


came  to  view  a  country  like  this,  they  asked  themselves, 
was  it  a  country  suited  to  the  purpose  of  raising  the  man 
of  tall  intellect,  of  broad  benevolence  ?— man  that  would 
take  as  it  were    the  earth  and  put    it  in  his  heart? 
America  was  nearly  a  temperance  country  compared  with 
ours.     This  was  one  of  the  elements  of  its  greatness.     It 
was  temperance  that  lifted,  as  it  were,  the  great  curtain 
of  ignorance  from  before  the  eyes  cf  the  people,  the  sun 
poured  in  his  rays  of  light  from  the  skies,  man  rejoiced 
and  received  the  benefits  thereof     (Applause.)     It  was 
intemperance  that  had  fettered  and  retarded  the  progress 
of  Christianity  in  the  earth.     It  was  this  evil  that  fet- 
tered the  progress  of  the  truths  of  a  Luther,  a  Calvin,  a 
Wesley    and   a  Whitefield.     (Applause.)     It   was   the 
bottle  that  checked  its  course,  and  dammed  its  influence. 
They  might  boast  of  their  splendid  edifices,  and   of  the 
diversified  architecture,  but  as  long  as  this  demon  was 
allowed  a  place  in  the  edifice,  so  long  would  he  throw* 
his  dark  tail  around,  and  sting  to  the  very  vitals  '.     So 
long  as  this  continued,  so  long  would  progress  move  on 
in  its  slow-coach  style.     (Applause.)     America   was  a 
bible  country  ;  and  thirdly,  the  Americans  were  a  people 
of  enterprise.     After  dwelling  at  considerable  length  on 


332 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


the  scenery  of  America,  in  which  he  introduced  and  de- 
picted in  a  Ihiely  poetic  strain  the  falls  of  Niar^ara,  with 
its  boiling  torrents  and  furious,  rolling  rapids,  he  sketched 
with  exciting  vigor  the  dark,  deep,    and  rapid    rivers, 
overhung  by    the   perpendicular    granite    rock,  looking 
down  upon  the  oirrent  below.     It  seemed  as  though  na- 
ture in  some  of  her  convulsions  had  split  those  mighty 
rocks  in  twain  to  make  a  passage  for  the  streams.     His 
description   of  a  thunder-storm    was    sublimely   grand. 
The   Chief  brought  his  lecture  to  a  close    by   referring 
again  to  the  cultivation  of  the  soil  as  necessary  to  the  ex- 
istence of  man,  and  concluded  by  a  beautiful  contrast  be- 
tM^een  the  wants  of  the  body  and  those  of  the  mind.     At 
the  close  of  the  lecture  an  individual  in  the  body  of  the 
hall  asked  the  Chief  as  to  the  best  period  of  the  year  for 
emigration  to  America,  to  which  he  replied  that  the  lat- 
ter end  of  the  summer,  or  the  autumn,  was  the  most 
*  suitable.     Before  the  audience  separated,  the  Chief  sang 
one  of  his  native  songs,  in  which  was  exhibited  a  good 
knowledge  of  music.     The  air  was  in  a  minor  key,  and 
almost  consequently  of  a  melancholy  nature." 

1  am  now  in  Edinbnrgh,  just  arrived  from  Newcas- 
tle.    I  am  still  unwell,  and  I  am  expected  to  deliver  a 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIOXS. 


333 


temperance  sermon  by  the  Scottish  Presbyterian  Church 
Society.  I  have  so  far  received  nothing  but  kindness. 
0  may  my  friends  in  this  and  other  countries  be  ever 
blessed. 


I 


CIIArTER  XXIII. 


SCOTLAND. 

I  HAVE  had  no  time  to  write  down  all  the  events  of 
my  interesting  sojourn  in  this  most  interesting  country, 
since  I  came  liere,  for  my  time  has  been  so  well  occupied. 
Now  I  am  about  to  leave  it,  and  the  people  who  have 
been  so  kind  to  me. 

"  The  metropolis  of  Scotland  is  situated  in  the  northern 
part  of  the  County  of  Mid-Lothian,  and  is  about  two 
miles  distant  from  the  Firth  of  Forth.*  Its  length  and 
breadth  are  nearly  equal,  measuring  about  two  miles  in 
either  direction.  In  panoramic  splendor,  its  site  is 
generally  admitted  to  be  unequalled  by  any  capital  in 
Europe,  and  the  prospect  from  the  elevated  points  of  the 
city  and  neighborhood  is  of  a  singular  beauty  and 
grandeur.     The  noble  estuary  of  the  Forth,   expanding 

*  The  precise  geographical  position  of  the  centre  of  the  cit;,  is 
55°  57'  20"  north  latitude,  and  3°  10'  30"  west  longitude. 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


835 


from  River  into  Ocean  ;  the  solitary  grandeur  of  Arthur's 
Seat ;  the  varied  park  and  woodland  scenery  which  en- 
rich the  southward  prospect  ;  the  pastoral  acclivities  of 
the  neighboring  Pentland  Hills,  and  the  more  shadowy 
splendors  of  the  Larnmermoors,  the  Ochils,  and  the 
Grampians,  form  some  of  the  features  of  a  landscape 
combining,  in  one  vast  expanse,  the  richest  elements  of 
the  beautiful  and  the  sublime." 

In  Edinburgh  there  are  warm  hearts  to  be  found  for 
me  and  my  race,  though  the  character  of  the  people  is 
cold  at  first;  but  the  longer  I  have  known  them  has 
proved  that  they  are  not  cold  altogether. 

Long  time  ago  I  read  the  history  of  these  people,  and 
particularly  the  Highlanders,  and  my  predilections  for 
this  people  before  no  doubt  has  had  to  do  with  the 
present  visit. 

The  Edinburgh  Castle  is  a  saucy-looking  place.  Old 
fashioned  fortifications  and  embankment  rude.  Houses 
of  the  ancient  order.  There  I  saw  a  room  very  small 
where  Q,ueen  Mary  lived,  and  where  king  James  was  born. 
The  most  interesting  to  visitors  now  is  the  crown  and 
sceptre  which  for  years  have  been  lost,  ard  now  they  are 
before  the  gaze  of  this  people.     Made  of  gold.     A  man 


836 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


HI 


is  stationed  over  or  near  it  all  the  while  to  guard  it  and 
show  it  to  strangers. 

Looking  down  from  the  castle  the  sight  is  most  charm- 
ing. Tlie  panoramic  view  of  the  Forth  hefore  you  and  sails 
which  everywhere  dot  over  the   whole  surface   of  the 
water— the  country  and  towns— the  farms  and  the  sur- 
rounding hills  all  in  grand  array.     And  in  the  midst  of 
this  wild  scenery,  there,  from  that  hill  you  can  see  the 
column  of  granite  erected  to  the  memor)'  of  Sir  W.  Scott, 
and  that  of  Burns,  Nelson,  and  King  George  the  Fourth. 
The   old  part  of  this  city    is   an  antique  place,  and 
away  below  it  is  the  "  Holyrood  Palace."      On  the  left 
is  the  new  Hospital,  and  hefore  you  is  the  Royal  Acade- 
my of  fine  arts.     Church  after  church  is  in  sight. 

The  hill  on  the  east  of  this  is  a  very  good  place  to  view 
from.  The  names  of  Mr.  John  Dunlap,  Dr.  Gunn,  the 
Rev.  Wm.  Reid,  Johnson,  and  my  devoted  and  affection- 
ate A.  Young,  A.  Harmour,  and  not  forgetting  my  dear 
friend  and  brother  P.  Sinclair  and  family.     May  Heaven 

still  smile  on  them. 

My  visit  to  Dundee  was  on  many  accounts  the  pleasant- 
est.  In  delivering  my  lectures  before  the  people  1  had 
the  Independent    Church,    and    George  Duncan,  M.    P. 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


887 


presided  at  the  first  and   the  next  time,  one  of  the  offi- 
cers  of  the  town.     A  very  interesting  event  for  myself, 
inasmuch  as  I  think  the  people  were  gratified  and  looked 
as  though  they  were   happy.     The  Rev.  gentlemen  of 
this  city  all  attended  my  lecture.     I  hecame  acquainted 
here  with  one  Mr.  J.  Valentine,  and  his  name  is  a  guar- 
antee that  he  is  a  charming  man.     Dundee  is  a  well- 
located  place,  on  the  side  of  the  Dee  facing  the  sun.  The 
surrounding  country  looks   as   though   no   other   people 
could  live  here  but  the  Scotch  people. 
In  the  summer  it  must  be  a  lovely  place. 
While  I  was  there  I  visted  the  celebrated  astronomer, 
Dr.  Dick,  who  lives  in  Broughton  Ferry,  four  miles  below 
Dundee,  in  a  beautiful  location  facing  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  and  surrounding  hills.     It  was  after  dark  when  we 
entered  his  house,  and  found  telescopes  pointing  to  every 
window,  small  and  great.     And  in  his  studio  lay  sheets 
of  paper  and  one  of  these  half  written  on.     His  books  all 
arrayed  around  the  room  in  a  perfectly  literary  style. 

His  person  is  a  middle-sized  man,  leans  forward — and 
not  fleshy,  face  sharp,  and  a  well-developed  forehead,  be- 
gins to  walk  rather  infirm.     He  seerr^s  to  be  so  happy. 

Speak  of  America,  his  heart  is  full  of  gratitude  to  his 

15 


838 


EUROPEAN   0BSEHVATION9. 


M\ 


friends  in  New  York,  Pluladeli.hi'a,  and  in  difibrcnt  parts 
of  the  country.  He  said  he  sliould  like  to  visit  the  New 
World  if  it  was  not  for  the  voyage,  and  there  he  is  tied 
and  his  wife,  so  devotedly  attached  to  him,  that  she  has 
to  say  where  he  should  and  where  he  should  not  go.  As 
we  sat  at  tea  I  found  myself  contemplating  the  days  of 

my  school-hours,   when  I  read  his  books  with  avidity. 

Now,  here  he  is.     This  is  the  man  who  has  travelled 

with  the  circuit  of  the  sun,  and  wandered  in  the  realms 

of  the  stars,  collecting  new  beauties  and  new  glories  from 

the  grandest  objects  of  heaven. 

It  is  he  who  led  me,  my  bewildered  mind  lost  in  the 

magnitude  of  thought,  that  a  God  who  made  the  worlds 

to  sing  his  praise  was  a  God  of  Power. 

When  I  asked  him  of  his  circumstances  he  replied, 
"  I  have  enough,  for  the  time  I  may  live."     And  may  he 

always  have. 

Perth  is  another  well-situated  town  at  the  river  Dee. 
I  had  a  meeting  here  and  gave  an  address  to  about  3,000 
people  in  the  City  Hall.  That  is,  it  will  seat  that  num- 
ber—but the  crowd  was  so  great  I  think  there  could  not 
have  been  less  than  500  more,  for  it  was  literally 
crowded. 


KUROl'KAN   OUSEltVATION.S. 


839 


I  met  some  of  the  society  of  Friends  here,  and  found 
them  well  informed   ahout  America.     The  lord  Provost 
presided,   the  next   time  I  visited  Perth      1  went  up  the 
hi-hest  hill  and  viewed  the  country.     Below  us  was  the 
river  Dee,  and   before  us  were  hills  which  began  to  as- 
sume a  sackcloth-like  appearance,  and  (he  frost  on  the 
hills  made  their  brows  look  gray.    Then  at  some  distance 
a  railroad  car  flew  past  in  an  opening  plain,  and  went  in 
one  side  of  the  hill  and  came  out  whizzing  on  the  other 
side,  red-hot,  for  it  was  nearly  dark,  and  the  streak  of  fire 
was  singularly  conspicuous. 

My  Dr.  Valentine,  I  shall  often  think  of  this  place 
after  this. 

All  that  I  have  seen  of  this  country  is  delightful  in- 
deed. The  hills  along  towards  the  Highlands  are  re- 
markable—few  trees  on  them  ;  yet  clothed  with  an  un- 
derwood  where  grouse  is  hunted  after  the  12th  of  August. 

xMy  visits  to  Glasgow  and  Paisley  were  very  interesting 
to  me.  On  the  Sabbath,  the  1st  of  December,  after  a 
fatigued  labor  of  the  past  week,  I  had  to  speak  in  the 
Parish  Church  to  over  3,000  souls  on  the  subject  of 
Temperance.  On  Saturday  before,  to  a  large  audience  in 
Glasgow. 


1 


340 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


I  stayed  in  Taisley  with  one  Dr.  Richmond,   and  just 
by  is  the  oldest  ruins  of  the  place.  The  chapel  where  the 
Monks  and   Jesuits  used  to  live  when  they  had  their  day 
of  glory   and  power.     A  very   curious  building  it  is  too. 
It  was  raining  when  I   went  around  to  see  it.     Wrote 
my  name,  and  sung  a  song  in  the  "  echo  chamber."    1  vis- 
ited no  one  but  a  Mr   Kerr,  a  shawl  manufacturer,  and 
from  him  1  received  good  expression  of  sy.  ipathy  for  the 
good  of  my  people.     I  went  to  a  poor  dilapidated  hut 
near  the  falls  of  this  stream  which  rolls  down  in  steps 
just  by.     And  here  the  Dr.  informed  me  of  the  fact  that 
yon  college-hut  was  the  birth-place  of  Wilson  the  state 
ornithologist  of  New  York. 

It  is  related  in  his  biography  that  he  expressed  a  wish, 
when  conversing  upon  the  subject  of  death,  that  when 
he  died,  he  might  be  buried  where  the  birds  should  come 
and  sing  over  his  grave.  And  these  sentiments  are  also 
ours. 


THE  LAST  WISH. 

•'  In  the  wild  forest  shade, 
Under  some  spreading  oak,  or  waving  pine, 
Or  old  elm,  festooned  with  the  gadding  vine, 
Let  me  be  laid. 


I, 


yaiOlkti 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


341 


In  this  dim  lonely  grot, 
No  foot  intrusive,  will  disturb  my  dust. 
But  o'er  me,  songs  of  tlie  wild  bird  shall  burst. 

Cheering  the  spot. 

Not  amid  charnel  stones. 
Or  coffins  dark,  or  thick  with  ancient  mould, 
With  lattered  pall,  and  fri;    e  of  cankered  gold, 

May  rest  my  bones ; 

But  let  the  dewy  rose, 
The  snow-drop  and  the  violet  lend  perfume, 
Above  the  spot,  where  m  my  grassy  tomb, 

I  take  repose. 

Year  after  year 
Within  the  silver  birch-tree  o'er  me  hung, 
The  chirping  wren  shall  rear  her  callow  young ; 
And  the  red  robin,  the  green  bough  among. 

Shall  build  her  dwelling  near ; 
And  ever  at  the  purple  dawning  of  the  day. 
The  lark  shall  chant  a  pealing  song  above. 
And  the  shrill  quail,  when  eve  grows  dim  and  gray. 

Shall  pipe  her  hymn  of  love. 

The  black  bird  and  the  thrush. 
And  golden  oriole,  shall  flit  around. 
And  waken  with  a  mellow  gush  of  sound, 

The  forests'  solemn  hush. 

Birds,  from  the  distant  sea, 
Shall  sometimes  thither  flock  on  snowy  wing 
And  soar  above  my  dust  in  airy  rings. 

Singing  a  dirge  to  me !" 

Oil  Monday  laoruiug  I  lelt  for  Glasgow,  where  I  deliv- 


342 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


l*L, 


ered  my  last  lecture  before  the  Temperance  society,  at 
the  Rev.  Dr.  Robinson's  Church.  The  weather  being 
very  unfavorable,  tliere  was  not  much  of  an  audience. 
Glasgow  is  more  like  the  American  cities  in  point  of 
business,  and  the  busy  commerce  which  everywhere  is 

visible. 

Tuesday  again  I  was  in  Terth,  when  the  lord  Provost 
presided  over  my  meeting,  and  again  cordially  received. 

For  the  last  time  and  place  1  was  in  Edinburgh,  Wed- 
nesday and  Thursday.  Thursday  evening  there  was  a 
tea  party,  which  was  tendered  to  me  by  the  ladies  of 
Glasgow  at  the  aueen  St.  Hall.  And  there  for  the  last 
time  1  addressed  with  a  heart  too  full,  a  people  who  had 
won  my  best  affections.  Speeches  were  made  by  Dr. 
Gunn,  Rev.  W.  Reid,  Mr.  Dunlap  and  others.  I  could 
have  enjoyed  the  meeting  if  it  had  not  been  that  it  was 
the  last  meeting. 

I  bid  a  final  affectionate  farewell  to  my  friends. 
Archibald  Young,  who  had  given  me  the  ink-stand 
which  I  have  used  constantly  since,  and  other  things  for 
my  wife  and  son.  May  heaven  bless  the  dear  boy  of  his, 
never  will  I  ibrget  his  kindness.  Now  while  I  am  her'J 
in  the  New  World  I  can  see    how   he  appeared  when 


Ml 


EUROPEAN  OBSERVATIONS. 


343 


I  last  saw  him.  Peter  Sinclair  and  family,  they  shall 
have  a  warm  corner  of  my  aching  heart.  I  hope  to  see 
them  ajrain.  Friday  morning,  (Uh  Dec,  the  morning 
was  clear  and  the  air  bracing.  I  left  for  Liverpool.  Af- 
ter a  ride  of  six  hours  I  was  then  seated  in  the  Waterloo 
Hotel. 

Saturday  morning,  7th  Dec.  I  went  on  board  the  fine 
new  steamer  "  Africa."  The  same  gallant  Captain  Ryrie, 
with  whom  I  came  over  from  America,  was  then  the 
Captain,  and  was  about  to  leave  again. 

I  might  say  a  great  deal  about  the  sea  or  the  storms 
which  I  experienced  in  coming  over ;  but,  I  would  Just 
say  for  the  consolation  of  those  who  are  obliged  to  go  over 
and  are  as  often  sea-sick  as  I  was :  "  that  a  man  is  a 
fool  icho  sails  from  Liverjmul  in  the  month  of  De- 
cember.^^    • 

I  have  seen  the  storm  in  the  lakes  of  the  west,  and  in 
the  wild  woods  when  trees  lay  down  to  die,  the  sweep- 
ing tornado  uprooting  the  trees,  when  I  have  felt  the 
very  earth  trembling  on  account  of  fallen  trees.  But 
this  storm  and  gale  in  a  sea  is  most  terrific  and 
awful. 

The  waves  knocked  the  bell  from  its  iron  frame,  tore 


344 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


up  the  side-bulwarks,  shattered  the  figure-head,  and  aw- 
fully scared  some  of  our  ladies. 

Oil  the  second  Sabbath  morning  out  I  heard  by  the 
sailors  we  had  now  met  a  gale,  and  that  we  did  hardly 
make  three   miles  in  an  hour— the    waves  soused,  and 
thumped  the  ship,  and   the  waves  would  roll  over  the 
deck,  and  rush  front  and   aft,  and  the   noise   it  would 
make  in  the  dark  was  awful.     At  this  stage  of  affairs  I 
said  to  myself  that  I  should  crawl  out  of  my  berth  and 
dress  myself  to  see  the  storm.     1  creeped  up  to  the  deck, 
and  the  ship  rolling  on  her  sides  plunging  her  paddle- 
boxes  into  the  water,  and  then  again  bouncing  up  and 
then  again  down,  the  sea  all  in  a  foam  1  the  rigging  of 
the  ship  moaning  and  whistling.     Just  as  I  was  getting 
up  the  quarter-deck  a  sea  struck  the  bow  of  the  ship,  and 
then  the  water  arose  and  in  one  grand  sheet  fell  length- 
wise on  the  deck,  and  falling  on  me,  which  nearly  struck 
me  from  my  hold.     Perfectly  drenched,  salt  in  my  mouth 
and  my   eyes,  snorting  with  it,  I   dabbled  down  to  my 
berth,  perfectly  willing  to  go  down   to  the  bottom   any 
time  after  that,  and  sick— sick— ah  !  yes— I  was  sick  in- 
deed. 

The  sea   in  the  time  of  a  gale   is   the  grandest  sight 


EUROPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


845 


that  my  eyes  ever  beheld.  Our  noble  steamer  seems  at 
times  a  lion,  and  battled  the  giant  waves,  and  at  times 
motionless  would  appear,  trembling,  stunned  by  the  fury 
of  the  waves. 

I  am  now  safely  housed  in  the  Irving  House,  and  three 
nights  I  have  spent  on  my  couch,  and  each  night  I  have 
awoke  myself  in  giving  my  bedstead,  a  deadly  grasp,  as 
I  did  to  my  berth  while  I  was  on  the  ocean. 

I  am  now  again  in  America,  and  thank  the  Great 
Spirit  for  it.  My  friends  are  here,  and  how  they  came 
all  around  me.  The  many  questions  I  have  been  asked 
about  the  Old  World,  how  I  liked  it,  and  what  I  saw, 
and  to  satisfy  them  I  have  given  a  short  outline  of  my 
journey. 

I  hope  to  go  again  and  see  the  far  East,  and  if  possible 
to  seek  the  footprints  of  the  Saviour,  who,  as  it  is  said, 
came  to  earth  to  bless  man.  A  land  made  memorable 
by  the  acts  of  Him  who  gave  the  best  laws  for  the  gov- 
ernment of  man. 

I  add  here  a  welcome  from  a  friend  of  mine  in  the  city 
of  "  Brotherly  Love." 


15* 


846 


EUllOPEAN   OBSERVATIONS. 


TO  GEORGE  COrWAY,  OF  THi^  OJIBWAY  NATION. 

"  Hail  to  thee,  chief,  from  the  far  forest  land  1 
Hail  to  thee,  prince,  of  the  wild  wood-land  ! 
From  the  sun-crowned  hills  of  the  glorious  west, 
Where  wild  winds  billow  Superior's  breast, 
Thou  hast  travelled  o'er  broad  Atlantic's  foam. 
Where  sages  of  peace  to  their  councils  come ; 
Thou  hast  trodden  in  halls  of  ancient  glory 
And  traced  the  records  of  olden  story ; — 
Thou  hast  seen  grim  rehcs  of  ruthless  ire. 
And  tortures  unknown  at  thy  camping  fire. 
The  war-fiend  was  worshipped  by  pale-faced  men, 
As  well  as  by  braves  in  the  forest  glen  ; 
And  torrents  of  heart-warm,  human  blood 
Have  poured  over  Europe,  as  wasting  flood. 
But  the  worship  and  honor  of  carnage  is  past, 
Earth's  glorious  jubilee  soundeth  at  last , 
Child  of  the  forest !  to  thee  it  is  given 
To  speak  in  rich  cadence  the  message  of  heaven ; 
And  bid  the  paleface  with  the  Indian  combine 
The  oak  of  our  country  with  olive  to  twine  ; 
To  bid  the  wild  war-notes  forever  be  still. 
While  angels  are  chanting,  "  On  earth  good  will. 
And  glory  to  God  in  the  highest  above. 
The  Father  of  all,  the  fountain  of  love." 

Philadelphia.  A.  W.  H. 


J.   C.   RIKER, 
PUBLISHER   AND   BOOKSELLER, 


129  FULTON-STREET,  NEW-YORK, 


HAS     RECENTLY     ISSUED     THE     FOLLOWING 


NEW  WOBkS  AND  NEW  EDITIONS. 


■  <«»> 


THE  GOVERNESS ;  or  the  Education  of  Circum- 
stances.    12mo.,  cloth.     75  cts. 

"  One  person  is  more,  and  another  less,  the  creature  of  circum- 
stances, but  no  one  is  altogetlier  independent  of  them." 

KATHERINE  DOUGLASS;  or,  Principle  Deve- 
loped.   By  S.  Selby  Coppard.     12mo.,  clo.    75  cts. 

"  This  story  is  a  domestic  one,  and  chaxmingly  written." 

AMY  HARRINGTON;  or,  a  Sister's  Love.  By  the 
author  of  the  Curate  of  Linwood,  etc.  l2mo.,  clo. 
75  cents. 

"  If  other  love  wound,  this  falleth  soft 
On  tlie  tired  heart,  like  evening  dew ; 
In  life  and  in  death,  in  sorrow  and  joy, 
A  sister's  love  ever  is  true." 


V 


J.  C.  RIKER'S  Recent  Publications. 


i 


THE  LIFE  OF  SILAS  TALBOT,  Commodore  in 
the  United  States  xNavy.    By  Henry  T.  Tuckerman. 
18mo.,  cloth.     38  cts. 
"Mr.  Tuckerman  has  rendered   an  excellent   service  to  our 

historical  literature,  by  the  pubUcation  of  this  pleasant  and  weU 

written  volume." 

THE  ITALIAN  SKETCH  BOOK.     By  Henry  T. 

Tuckerman.     12mo.,  cloth.     ^1. 

"  This  is  a  new  edition  of  a  beautiful  and  popular  work,  written 
with  all  the  author's  grace  and  richness  of  style  and  clearness  of 
thought  and  description." — Boston  Courier. 

THE   EMPEROR  JULIAN   and  His  Generation. 
By  Dr.  Neander.     12rao.,  clo.     75  cts. 

« It  takes  in  the  entire  range  of  the  history  of  the  Christian 
Cliurch  as  well  as  the  personal  history  of  the  Emperor."'— Commer- 
cial Advertiser. 


J.    C.    RIKER, 

has  in  press  and  will  shortly  publish  : 

STUDIES  AND  ^TORIES,  from  Chronicle  and  His- 
tory. By  Mrs.  Hall  and  Mrs.  Forster.  Freely 
Illustrated. 

HERBERT  TRACY ;  or  the  Trials  of  Mercantile 
Life  and  the  Morality  of  Trade.  By  "  X  Count- 
iNG-HousE  Man."     Designed  for  Young  Men. 


